Yeah, please do post pictures. I'm 75% of the way through removing my secondary butterflies and I never would have attempted it without this forum...
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Rox 2" Risers and New Brake lines
- Thread starter achesley
- Start date
Removal of the secondary 'flies seems to be a membership ritual 'round here, sort of 'club' within a club. If I had to do it all over again, I would have done nothing but drill a 1" hole in my air box and add a sexy sounding slip-on. But because I have done everything you can, my bike and I now have a closer (more intimate) relationship. Oh, and she's soooo smoooooth now and with better throttle response.
achesley
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So far, in engine affecting things, a yosh slip on because the stocker muffler was so big, TB sync @ around 20,000 miles, after that, ride ride ride. 
Hope to get back in the shop in a bit and finish my project. Allinement of the handlebars, remount stuff, clean chain while it's on the lift. Something else that I just can't remember at the present time. hmmmmmm.
Hope to get back in the shop in a bit and finish my project. Allinement of the handlebars, remount stuff, clean chain while it's on the lift. Something else that I just can't remember at the present time. hmmmmmm.
achesley
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Completed the maintenance I wanted to get done and the installation of the ROX 2" risers this morning while it was 55 degree with a drizzling rain. All went good.
I got the front lines fitted to where I liked them. They do not follow the pattern of the rubber hoses.
If I did this installment again, I would just measure and order the hoses separate to get a better fitting. How is it said, live and learn.
Next is a side view of the completed handlebar allinement with new hose showing.
And, one from the behind.
Next is the completed movement of the clutch hose from the front of the triclamp to the back of it.
I didn't like the way the little tab on the cylinder keep me from having a straight shot down from it it so, I did what any self respecting mechanic would do. Cut it off!
You can see the shiny spot right under the banjo bolt. Yes! I will dab some black paint on it later today.
This next picture shows something I want to mention also.
You can see that multi connection next to the rear master cylinder reservoir. The way I found it , as show, can collect water if you do rain riding. So, I pulled the cap off and smeared some dialectic grease on it and fixed it so the cap was up. I really didn't look to see what it did, just figured it was for some machine to plug into for diagnostics.
So, I changed out the fluid in the rear brake and sewed all this stuff back up. I have a new line for the rear but didn't feel like going though the mess to install it this time. Maybe next tire change?
Now, Like all good motorcycle riders with chains should do. Cleaned my chain with Kerosene and wiped it down. Now it's pretty.
And a greenish picture ( was playing with the camera in the A setting ) of what it looks like with the GPS back on and set to where I can see the turn signal lights.
I did the same with the Radar Detector but pulled the bracket off to paint it.
Using my drill press as a painting table since it needs painting anyway. .
I left the bike on the stand as it's still raining outside but suppose to be partly cloudy tomorrow so that when the test ride happens.
As we all know, what feels comfortable sitting in a shop and 100 miles down the road are two different thing. Went though that with a seat modification a few years back in Hollister, Calif. at Corbin. Felt very good there and riding about the parking lots. But, sucked by the time I crossed into Utah on the way back home.
\
As before, any questions I can answer , I will. Mine is Non ABS and it seems the lines may be different lengths on the Brake line.
I got the front lines fitted to where I liked them. They do not follow the pattern of the rubber hoses.
If I did this installment again, I would just measure and order the hoses separate to get a better fitting. How is it said, live and learn.
Next is a side view of the completed handlebar allinement with new hose showing.
And, one from the behind.
Next is the completed movement of the clutch hose from the front of the triclamp to the back of it.
I didn't like the way the little tab on the cylinder keep me from having a straight shot down from it it so, I did what any self respecting mechanic would do. Cut it off!
You can see the shiny spot right under the banjo bolt. Yes! I will dab some black paint on it later today.
This next picture shows something I want to mention also.
You can see that multi connection next to the rear master cylinder reservoir. The way I found it , as show, can collect water if you do rain riding. So, I pulled the cap off and smeared some dialectic grease on it and fixed it so the cap was up. I really didn't look to see what it did, just figured it was for some machine to plug into for diagnostics.
So, I changed out the fluid in the rear brake and sewed all this stuff back up. I have a new line for the rear but didn't feel like going though the mess to install it this time. Maybe next tire change?
Now, Like all good motorcycle riders with chains should do. Cleaned my chain with Kerosene and wiped it down. Now it's pretty.
And a greenish picture ( was playing with the camera in the A setting ) of what it looks like with the GPS back on and set to where I can see the turn signal lights.
I did the same with the Radar Detector but pulled the bracket off to paint it.
Using my drill press as a painting table since it needs painting anyway.
. I left the bike on the stand as it's still raining outside but suppose to be partly cloudy tomorrow so that when the test ride happens.
As we all know, what feels comfortable sitting in a shop and 100 miles down the road are two different thing. Went though that with a seat modification a few years back in Hollister, Calif. at Corbin. Felt very good there and riding about the parking lots. But, sucked by the time I crossed into Utah on the way back home.
\
As before, any questions I can answer , I will. Mine is Non ABS and it seems the lines may be different lengths on the Brake line.
achesley
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I forgot to mention. Lots of junk and stuff on the shelves in my shop. I do clean it out ever 5 years or so.
Andy,
Any interest in recycling your Genmar risers to another Bandit owner? I'm interested in running a more relaxed riding position, but I've already spent a lot of money on my bike this winter. Rather than buy a new set of Rox or Genmar risers, maybe I could get your old Genmars for cheaper.
Besides, I like the look of your version of the Genmars better than the stair-step ones they're currently showing on the web:
http://www.zianet.com/genmar/
Thoughts?
Any interest in recycling your Genmar risers to another Bandit owner? I'm interested in running a more relaxed riding position, but I've already spent a lot of money on my bike this winter. Rather than buy a new set of Rox or Genmar risers, maybe I could get your old Genmars for cheaper.
Besides, I like the look of your version of the Genmars better than the stair-step ones they're currently showing on the web:
http://www.zianet.com/genmar/
Thoughts?
achesley
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PM sent.
achesley
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Did about 115 miles ride this afternoon.
Very satisfied with the Rox set up. Seems to have reduced vibration also. Very smooth handle bars at 65.
The brake lines are run totally different than what was suppose to be due to handlebar relocation. Actually, both top ends would hook up with the master cyl and one line to each of the capilars. Could not happen with my 2 in rise. If these were not a given , I would just order the size needed for a cleaner install.
Very satisfied with the Rox set up. Seems to have reduced vibration also. Very smooth handle bars at 65.
The brake lines are run totally different than what was suppose to be due to handlebar relocation. Actually, both top ends would hook up with the master cyl and one line to each of the capilars. Could not happen with my 2 in rise. If these were not a given , I would just order the size needed for a cleaner install.
Here are some pics of my nearly identical install, only I took the cheapskate option of only replacing the one short line on my ABS model.
Risers, front brake line:
Cockpit:
Clutch Line:
Brake line looking up:
Brake line from the side:
Comfort much improved, very happy with the whole thing.
trey
Risers, front brake line:
Cockpit:
Clutch Line:
Brake line looking up:
Brake line from the side:
Comfort much improved, very happy with the whole thing.
trey
achesley
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Very neat looking! I was amazed that it was almost a year since I had installed mine.
Good eye! I bought them off a guy on eBay, Wiseguy Bolts:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/M4-Metric-B...182?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b80926c6
M4 Metric Bolts Stainless Steel Socket Head M4x8
I'm just not a big fan of a phillips head on something I'll be messing with at least once a year... give me a hex bolt any day.
I put about 200-250mi on this setup on Saturday morning... wow. I've never been so comfortable on the bike. Now I'm kicking myself for not doing it earlier...
Beautiful day here in Central TX Saturday.
trey
Trey thank you for the info! I agree, I stripped the head on one of them and got lucky getting it out without drilling but want them GONE as to never repeat the horror of not being able to bleed my clutch! Also, did you have any other risers before the Rox's!? I have the el cheapo V-strom Ebay ones for just one inch up and it relieved my shoulder and wrist pain but might want even more comfort so just wondering! 
EDIT: Will those bolts fit in the stock threads, etc? They seem a bit longer and maybe even larger!?
Also, did you have any other risers before the Rox's!? I have the el cheapo V-strom Ebay ones for just one inch up and it relieved my shoulder and wrist pain but might want even more comfort so just wondering! EDIT: Will those bolts fit in the stock threads, etc? They seem a bit longer and maybe even larger!?
Trey thank you for the info! I agree, I stripped the head on one of them and got lucky getting it out without drilling but want them GONE as to never repeat the horror of not being able to bleed my clutch!
EDIT: Will those bolts fit in the stock threads, etc? They seem a bit longer and maybe even larger!?
Yes, I had the same kind of cheap 1 or 1.5" risers before. They helped, but it just wasn't quite enough... the Rox are much better, for me anyway. Being able to swing them around to exactly the right position is the key.
That picture on the Ebay listing is generic -- M4x8 is exactly what is on my receipt I found in my email -- they will bolt right in.
trey
Perfect! Will order them ASAP! BTW what is your height, etc? Just curious if the Rox will be worth it for me $$$ wise!
I'm a pretty average sized guy. 5'11", about 160lb, 31-32" inseam.
My new Sargent seat is what really forced me to do something -- it has a nice pocket for my butt, but it was about an inch further back than I usually sit. I used to really hugging the tank with the stock seat, and I didn't have any complaints with the bars that way...
It'd be interesting geometrically if I could see what I've actually done from stock. The Sargent seat sits me further back, and it's a little taller than stock. I've compensated by getting the risers and bringing the bars up and back a bit. I bet I've just about cancelled out the two things and my body position is right about where it was with the stock seat/bars...
trey
Well when I 1st put my cheapo 1" inch up risers I had the stock seat and it helped. Then got the Sargent and don't think it changed much maybe I just didn't notice after all the excitement of the much more comfy seat. Dumb question though, with the adjustable Rox's how do you find a good spot!? Do you just sit straight up and adjust to roughly there or? BTW ordered those hex bolts already thanks a lot for that info!
achesley
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Here is the ROX site. Check it out.
http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showitems.cgi?subcat_id=268
http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showitems.cgi?subcat_id=268
Dumb question though, with the adjustable Rox's how do you find a good spot!? Do you just sit straight up and adjust to roughly there or? BTW ordered those hex bolts already thanks a lot for that info!
That's pretty much what I did. Adjusted them to where I thought they were comfy in the garage on the centerstand. After a couple of rides I decided to rotate them down a little bit to bring the bar a little lower, but more towards me -- that seems to be where my body likes them. The beauty of them is you can adjust however you like.
You'll like those bolts -- no more fumbling around for the screwdriver that fits exactly right
trey
Much more comfortable but more vibration on my bike after fixing rox risers.
Mick
0
Treybrad, I'm finally going to install Rox Risers on my 1250ABS and have a couple of questions:
.....How much longer is the (top) replacement brake line that stock?
.....Where did you get the the line? Did they come at a pre-cut size already made for the Bandit or did you have to measure your stock line, add "x" inches and order them custom made?
Mick
0
Andy & Treybrad,
Would either of you happen to remember exactly which model of 7/8", 2" riser you used? The Rox site has several.
A year or so ago someone on the forum told me that they used the "3R-P2SS" . When I just looked, what's on the site now is the 3R-P2SSM ( http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showdetails.cgi?parts_id=9948 ). The description mentions that the posts are longer than normal. In looking at their other 7/8", 2" risers, I see the 1R-P2SSN ( http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showdetails.cgi?parts_id=9688 ).
I'd rather not have an extra length of post sticking out if it's not needed. Which of these did you guys use if any?
Would either of you happen to remember exactly which model of 7/8", 2" riser you used? The Rox site has several.
A year or so ago someone on the forum told me that they used the "3R-P2SS" . When I just looked, what's on the site now is the 3R-P2SSM ( http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showdetails.cgi?parts_id=9948 ). The description mentions that the posts are longer than normal. In looking at their other 7/8", 2" risers, I see the 1R-P2SSN ( http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showdetails.cgi?parts_id=9688 ).
I'd rather not have an extra length of post sticking out if it's not needed. Which of these did you guys use if any?
achesley
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I used the second ones you have mentioned.
In looking at their other 7/8", 2" risers, I see the 1R-P2SSN ( http://www.roxspeedfx.com/cgi-bin/cart/showdetails.cgi?parts_id=9688 ).
With the Sargent seat I'm trying out that I bought lately, it almost feels like I need 3 or 4 inchers. LOL. The Corbin seat I have is 1" lower than stock and the Sargent is as high or higher. But, we're not yet decided on which seat is gonna be left on. Need more miles on the Sargent for that ruling.
I got the line off Amazon via Motorcycle Superstore (shipping was cheaper with Amazon...
). This is what is in my confirmation email:and
The brake line fit, no issues, but it probably could've been an inch shorter. I'd double check, but the bike is gone, that sounds about right though.
With the Sargent seat I'm trying out that I bought lately, it almost feels like I need 3 or 4 inchers. LOL. The Corbin seat I have is 1" lower than stock and the Sargent is as high or higher. But, we're not yet decided on which seat is gonna be left on. Need more miles on the Sargent for that ruling.
You know, I didn't even think about the Corbin being lower, and the Sargent being a little taller than stock. I bet that did make a big difference for you. I went from a re-worked 'Spencer-ized' seat that was a little taller than stock to the Sargent, which was no big deal -- but I did buy the risers after I sent my original to Spencer...
trey
Mick
0
OK, I'm in the middle of installing the Rox 2" risers on my Bandit 1250 today and hit a snag. I could not figure out how one is supposed to tighten down the lower set of bolts much less set the torque on them 
so I did a google and found the following on adventure rider:
---------------------------------------------------------------
From:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743703
"Push the risers forward, tighten the lower bolt, then pull them back into the desired position and tighten the upper bolt. I realize this is backwards from the factory directions, but it works fine."
AND
"And the clamps need to go down evenly (more or less). The front is all the way down and the back has a gap. What the previous poster said. Loosen up the front and rear bolts. Snug them evenly, then tighten the rear a little, loosen the front bolt. Pull your bars back to the desired position and finish off by tightening the front bolts. This way when everything is finally set and tight, the gaps between the front and rear end up being about the same. "
AND:
"Thank you Jim, I am looking forward to trying this!! My concern was that it'll be difficult to move the risers/bars when the small bolts are tight. I used a rubber mallet to move them into position initially and it was a challenge to get them to move evenly. I thought the bars would keep the risers straight/aligned when moving. Any suggestions on this dealing with this specific challenge as well?"
AND
"It wont be an issue. Get them just snug enough so you can move them with some effort. Alighn the bars where you want them, tighten up the ypper bolts holding the bars, then mark the position of the lower part where the riser meets the tripple tree. Then push the bars forward to snug down the rear bolts, you may not get them to full torque before you can no longer move the bars and that is OK. Then pull the bars/risers back into the marked position and tighten to spec. They wont move at all. I have installed these many times with no issues."
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
If anyone has a better way to torque these bolts down and get things lined up please chime in! Gonna take a break for lunch right now. Hopefully I'll get an answer before I start back to work. If not, hope I don't bugger it up. At any rate, an answer will help the next guy. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has had this question.
This picture illustrates the problem:
so I did a google and found the following on adventure rider:---------------------------------------------------------------
From:
http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=743703
"Push the risers forward, tighten the lower bolt, then pull them back into the desired position and tighten the upper bolt. I realize this is backwards from the factory directions, but it works fine."
AND
"And the clamps need to go down evenly (more or less). The front is all the way down and the back has a gap. What the previous poster said. Loosen up the front and rear bolts. Snug them evenly, then tighten the rear a little, loosen the front bolt. Pull your bars back to the desired position and finish off by tightening the front bolts. This way when everything is finally set and tight, the gaps between the front and rear end up being about the same. "
AND:
"Thank you Jim, I am looking forward to trying this!! My concern was that it'll be difficult to move the risers/bars when the small bolts are tight. I used a rubber mallet to move them into position initially and it was a challenge to get them to move evenly. I thought the bars would keep the risers straight/aligned when moving. Any suggestions on this dealing with this specific challenge as well?"
AND
"It wont be an issue. Get them just snug enough so you can move them with some effort. Alighn the bars where you want them, tighten up the ypper bolts holding the bars, then mark the position of the lower part where the riser meets the tripple tree. Then push the bars forward to snug down the rear bolts, you may not get them to full torque before you can no longer move the bars and that is OK. Then pull the bars/risers back into the marked position and tighten to spec. They wont move at all. I have installed these many times with no issues."
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
If anyone has a better way to torque these bolts down and get things lined up please chime in! Gonna take a break for lunch right now. Hopefully I'll get an answer before I start back to work. If not, hope I don't bugger it up. At any rate, an answer will help the next guy. I'm sure I'm not the only one who has had this question.
This picture illustrates the problem: