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Could this be you?

kurt

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Lago Vista, Texas
First Name
Kurt
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Brown
DucGirl's post about her clutch fluid made me remember that I have been neglecting a maintenance chore. The maual recommends changing the brake fluid at 2 years. Since the SV is an '03, I did it this morning. It didn't look near this bad in the translucent resevour (sp?).

It only took 1/2 an hour including tool locating and clean-up. Remember your fluids! :-D

BrakeFluid.jpg
 
Since it is somewhat on topic, I'll toss out a question that has been plaguing me for quite a while now. When I use a Miti-Vac, I get a lot of air being sucked in through the bleeder's threads, and, hence, not much fluid gets sucked through. I've tried putting teflon tape on the bleeder's threads and just barely opening the bleeder to no avail. Is there a good solution for this problem?

Carl
 
Hmmm.... There are always some bubbles that get in via the cap covering the zerk fitting on the caliper. As long as I keep continuous negative pressure on it and keep pumping anytime I have the zerk open,it seems to work well. I just wait until I get clear fluid back.
 
By the way, if you think brake fluid is not corrosive, you ought to see what it did to that Pyrex measuring cup in the few minutes it was in there.
 
Uhh... Kurt, are you planning to have a tire changing party some time in the near future...? That is a CRAPLOAD of wheel weights in that picture!! :shock:

Adios,
 
Tourmeister said:
Uhh... Kurt, are you planning to have a tire changing party some time in the near future...? That is a CRAPLOAD of wheel weights in that picture!! :shock:

Adios,

I could, but that is how they were packaged when I bought them. Lifetime supply since the last several I have changed have required no additional weights.
 
Cagiva 549 said:
that sure is dirty fluid , how long had it been. SEYA

Two years, most likely. It really just started to look dark though.
 
Changing brake fluid is a good idea, not only for the dirt that gets in, but for the water. Have done this many times, and here's an insider's trick.
Simply put a hose onto the bleed nipple (er, protrusion) with the other end in a container of clean water. Open the nipple and begin pumping, keeping the master full. Don't worry - the water will not go back up the hose. You'll easily see when the old dirty stuff has turned into nice new fluid, and then you're done.
Truth is, you don't need the water, but it makes it easier to see when the fluid comes clean. Remember, you're beginning on the first pump, pushing a column of fluid down the tube. Air cannot go past the fluid and into the caliper. So long as the master level stays above the return port, all is well.
 
txmedic said:
By the way, if you think brake fluid is not corrosive, you ought to see what it did to that Pyrex measuring cup in the few minutes it was in there.

So does that mean your wife might notice?

Hope you put it waaaay back in the pantry :chug:
 
uberhawk said:
txmedic said:
By the way, if you think brake fluid is not corrosive, you ought to see what it did to that Pyrex measuring cup in the few minutes it was in there.

So does that mean your wife might notice?

Hope you put it waaaay back in the pantry :chug:

I long ago replaced the the "equipment" I procured, including the turkey baster seen in the photo. :-P Care to see my 12-compartment parts tray? :mrgreen:
 
cmcnamee said:
When I use a Miti-Vac, I get a lot of air being sucked in through the bleeder's threads, and, hence, not much fluid gets sucked through. I've tried putting teflon tape on the bleeder's threads and just barely opening the bleeder to no avail. Is there a good solution for this problem?

Yes, there is. Go to www.speedbleeder.com. I replaced all my BMW's bleed fittings with these and no longer need the Miti-Vac.
 
BeemerDude said:
cmcnamee said:
When I use a Miti-Vac, I get a lot of air being sucked in through the bleeder's threads, and, hence, not much fluid gets sucked through. I've tried putting teflon tape on the bleeder's threads and just barely opening the bleeder to no avail. Is there a good solution for this problem?

Yes, there is. Go to www.speedbleeder.com. I replaced all my BMW's bleed fittings with these and no longer need the Miti-Vac.

I should have mentioned that too. I have them on the DRZ and just ordered a set for the Goldwing project bike. Very easy to use.
 
BeemerDude said:
Yes, there is. Go to www.speedbleeder.com. I replaced all my BMW's bleed fittings with these and no longer need the Miti-Vac.

I've looked into these speed bleeders a few of times, but enough people have reported having them leak after a while that I've shied away from them. The last part of my bike that I want to have a problem with when riding is my brakes. YMMV.

Carl
 
:tab I used them on both of our VFR 800's, 46K miles on one and 60K on the other. Never had a problem. What I have heard happen to other people is that the goop on the threads does not make an airtight seal when the have the screws opened for bleeding and thus they get air into the system via the threads. I never had this problem though. I would expect it might happen for someone that spends a LOT of time bleeding their brakes or that may have knocked the goop off the threads when they were installing the screws.

Adios,
 
I noticed that when I ordered the last set that they sell the coating they put on the threads for people that bleed their brakes alot. Don't remember seeing that last year when I bought my first set.
 
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