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DRZ experts inside

So the cap is present but the steel stick is gone?

It can go anywhere,so don't sweat it.

Yes removing the lower fitting and screen should easily allow remove of a dip stick come loose from the cap.

If it literally does not just fall out... An air line with a long piece of hard tubing, steel... copper...hard plastic, and blow full pressure jets in the tank down near where the stick will be resting, that will rattle that stick around until it falls out.

You could also try a small magnet on a telescope stalk going into the tank from the top from the top or bottom.

Steel.

Also, the dipstick is gone.
I've ordered a replacement.
But do you think that:

a. it won't be an issue if it is in the reservoir

b. might come out when I pull the screen
 
Erik,

He has an aluminum oil cap, it says SAE 10W40 on it. On the bottom it has a slot and what looks like a magnet. I am thinking they lost the other one and tossed that one on there. Maybe Mitch would post a picture of it. That is one nice little DR-Z he has there, by the way. I did break his heart a little pointing out the speedo cable is unhooked.
 
I replaced the fan switch on mine and installed my old shorty choke I built that the TT guys started making later on. Much easier to install the tank. I also noticed I didn't put a nut on the upper subframe bolt. Oops. Then I took a blast into town to get her inspected and renew the registration. Working well. That S really is tall when you ride a lowered SM.
 
Doug
Does sound like an aftermarket gap as I’m sure you recognized
The stock ones have been known to get Cross started and then no longer usable missed placed or some folks just like the aftermarket caps better.
I can say I’ve only checked the oil in my DRZ with the dipstick three times since 2003 other than that it’s just the plug For the oil tank.
2 liters in and oil got changed long before I was going to burn any up.

Unless there’s a leak or you’ve made the mistake of removing the oil Vaporseparator box they just don’t use much oil. And if it’s burning up oil through bad rings or valve seals to make a difference between oil changes you can’t help but notice it coming out the exhaust I guess if you are right it till it blows up got a person will be cheaper than Repair you might need to check your oil a little more often


Erik,

He has an aluminum oil cap, it says SAE 10W40 on it. On the bottom it has a slot and what looks like a magnet. I am thinking they lost the other one and tossed that one on there. Maybe Mitch would post a picture of it. That is one nice little DR-Z he has there, by the way. I did break his heart a little pointing out the speedo cable is unhooked.
 
I recently took delivery of a 2000 DRZ400S.

On Thumpertalk, I identified the CDI unit on my bike and based upon the data in the FAQ, it is indeed an S model.

I need a few items to get it rolling.

1st is a right side radiator and a set of hoses. The radiator is split and twisted.

There are countless DRZ radiators available on eBay. But I want to put reliable parts on it. So my question is ... are they all the same?

For instance
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FOR-SUZUKI...ash=item2a6fc3fa32:g:brkAAOSw8oFXx9-r&vxp=mtr

Or would it be best if I try and source a genuine Suzuki part like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-00-16...ash=item25dec5570e:g:e~oAAOSw7ZlZpXbd&vxp=mtr

The "might as well" in me wants to install new radiators and new hoses while the coolant system is breached ... do the job once and be done with it ... safety - quality - schedule

Any direct insight?

1++ For Mylers used them several times and always came back looking like new..
 
Replacement radiator was delivered today.



Double checking ... the right side lower hose connection is oval?

Makes sense, if true, because the worm clamp is deformed in an oval shape and has chewed up the short lower hose. What does the factory clamp look like?
 
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No it was not oval when it came from the factory should be round


I’ve had luck using a series of sockets to return a tube like that to something approximately round

The OEM clamp is your standard worm drive screw clamp
 
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I was afraid of that.
I'll swing by a local muffler shop and see if they have a tail pipe spreader that small.


think Myler's can fix this one?
 
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Yes they can

However
You will loose some cooling capacity as that one side has damaged fins and coolant tube which will be repaired but not replaced
 
1/2" drive, 10mm impact socket was small enough and had a nice taper to bring it back to round.

The oval was awfully symmetrical and I saw no witness marks to make me think it was anything but factory.
 
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So, what does the fix look like? Have you ridden it? Bring it by, we can run it all over out here.
 
Well Now Doug, the proper DRZ color would have been yellow.
attachment.jpg

And.....now you've cost me some money. :rofl:
 
Ha! I've thrown out a bunch of those myself. One last set waiting on some rearranging of the garage and then they go.

Is the unabiker rad guard anodized yellow too or is that a reflection?
 
No pics of the fix. But it is as round as a socket.

Hoses due mid-week. I'll install then.
 
Ha! I've thrown out a bunch of those myself. One last set waiting on some rearranging of the garage and then they go.

Is the unabiker rad guard anodized yellow too or is that a reflection?

Anodized gold, yes and well done I might add..... clearly something needed vice just wanted (did that help of hurt...lol)
 
It was Christmas at WMC today.

All that remains are the hoses.
Blue hoses are the fastest.
 
NOT a fan of gold. Though this thread is making me realize that I need to bump up radiator guards on my shopping list. And now I'm imagining them powder coated yellow or something. Sigh...
 
Mine is, for many reasons. First of all is lack of mods. Second is the slow rider atop it.
 
Dang, I am hunting a red one, apparently the yellow poo is readily available the manly reds and blues are gone.:headbang::headbang::headbang:
 
https://photos.smugmug.com/2000-DRZ400S/i-6fD8VbL/0/abbd7665/1280/20171213_201446-1280.mp4

Got everything buttoned up on the cooling system and installed a pay it forward petcock from Doug. He's a nice guy and smart, too.

At first, I thought I had trouble.
The red temp light came on.

A quick walk around with my tire temp gun saw:
196-209 at the thermostat housing
170ish at the right rad intake (bottom)
155ish at the upper tank (under the cap)
155ish at the left side upper tank
145ish at the outlet
150ish on the water pump housing.

I killed it and heard lots of bubbles in the surge tank.

Let it sit for about 15 minutes and heat cycles it once again.
Another quick walk around with the temp gun saw:
180-202 at the thermostat housing
165ish at the right rad intake (bottom)
150ish at the upper tank (under the cap)
150ish at the left side upper tank
140ish at the outlet
150ish on the water pump housing.

Some drops in temp, but the red light was still coming and going.
The fan seemed to be cycling fine.

Killed and went to dinner.

Came back and the engine had cooled to the touch.

Pulled the radiator cap and the level was below the top row of fins.
Filled it and fired her back up and again took readings after it ran for about 5 minutes.
No temp light this time.

178-188 at the thermostat housing
160ish at the right rad intake (bottom)
150ish at the upper tank (under the cap)
150ish at the left side upper tank
135ish at the outlet (fan on)
140ish on the water pump housing.

I figured I had an air bubble and the reason for the poor cooling.
I'll check the rad level again in the morning and keep checking till the level stops moving.
 
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