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V-Strom owners thread

Followup on the stator recall, for those living in the DFW Mid Cities area:

I called Arlington Motorsports this morning to see about getting the warranty work done. Their response was that I would have to bring the bike in and leave it, after which they would then order the part and repair it when it comes in. How long, I asked. They informed me they would probably get the part in five days or so. That means a minimum of a week with my bike sitting in their shop, waiting for a part that could be preordered.

That didn't seem like a sensible way to handle a Suzuki factory problem to me. I called Freedom Powersports in Hurst. They took down all the applicable info, and when the part is in, they'll call me to schedule service. That makes a little more sense to me.

So - I called Freedom on 2/7. They called me back on the 13th to tell me the part was in. We made an appointment, I took the bike in at 10 this morning, and was back out the door at 11:50am. In the meantime, I had a very pleasant chat with a salesman and a service writer, and got to sit on a BMW F800GT (I think I'm in love, or at least in lust) and in a Polaris Slingshot. Easy peasy.

The service guy told me that technically, they're not supposed to order the recall part unless they have the bike in hand. It's a liability thing, in case a recalled part decides to shred after they've written a ticket, but while you're still riding - apparently it's a Suzuki thing. In the case of the stator, if the bike isn't exhibiting any symptoms, they're being judicious in handling that policy.
 
Any thoughts on opening factory luggage when this happens? Luckily the cylinder did not fall out until I tried to open the top case.
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This happened to my brother - the nut backed off & dropped into the cover, we had to make an 'L' shaped hook.. the short part of the L was about 1" long (crappy description LOL)
If you have a side-case you can pull the lock cover off & see - took us about 2 hours
 
This happened to my brother - the nut backed off & dropped into the cover, we had to make an 'L' shaped hook.. the short part of the L was about 1" long (crappy description LOL)
If you have a side-case you can pull the lock cover off & see - took us about 2 hours

Well, I did end up taking apart a side case to see how the mechanism worked, and was able to bend a screwdriver just over a 45 degree angle and fish it in there to open the case. I actually had everything I needed with me to do this, but it was under the seat! And, cant remove the seat with the top case on :headbang:
 
Don't know exactly what's up inside there. But over the years, I've found that a pair of lock pliers holding a long nail with a bent tip is one of those universal tools that can be used for a variety of pushing, pulling, catching tasks.
 
Today......... for the first time since 2003 ..... I woke up to look at a garage without a Strom in it......
Thats rite.... Im now oficially an EX V STROM owner
But it doesnt mean that Ive given up on Stroms.....
Still..... one of the absolute BEST bang for the buck bikes out there
....... who knos??????

I've missed mine a lot. I have a a bead on a new one at a great price up in Tulsa. I may fly and ride this weekend. The garage is just not the same without a Strom.
 
Scheduled for recall stator work this Thursday at 1:00 PM at Central TX. Power sports Georgetown. So far so good. I may test an African Twin auto whatever just for grins, while I'm waiting.
Lately I can hardly pay attention, much less buy new bike. Property taxes and income taxes $$:mrgreen:
 
Scheduled for recall stator work this Thursday at 1:00 PM at Central TX. Power sports Georgetown. So far so good. I may test an African Twin auto whatever just for grins, while I'm waiting.
Lately I can hardly pay attention, much less buy new bike. Property taxes and income taxes $$:mrgreen:

I got to sit on one of everything while I was at Freedom last Friday. They were nice enough that, had I asked pushed a little, I probably could have gotten a test ride on the F800GT. But I don't really see myself upgrading to a brand new Beemer, so I just sat on it and jawed with the salesman.
 
I am new to the forum and new to any bike that shifts on the left. My last new bike was a 74 Norton commando, which I still have.
That being said I now have an 05 DL650 which is a pleasure to ride and I enjoy riding with others in the area. The only issue I have is with the speedometer, it reads about 10% high. I have checked with others I ride with and the answer is "they all do that". Is there anyway to correct that without breaking the bank?
 
Welcome to the world of left-side shifting.

Yes, they all do it. And yes, there are fixes. First, the older (pre 2012) DL650s are further off than the 2012s and newer. The good news is they are very consistent in their inaccuracy. You'd have to do some google research, but there are actually 2 different ways to fix the pre-2012s. One is a simple paper overlay that can be put under your speedometer glass, that will bring your speedo within a percent or so of accuracy. The other is a black box approach - I think it goes inline in your speedometer cable - that will correct both your speedometer and your odometer.

Or, plant a GPS on the handlebar and you'll get accurate speed readings with deadly satellite precision.

Frankly, most of us just get used to it. Below 50mph, your speed is generally 4mph or less under indicated. At 60mph, it's off by about 5mph and at 70, it's off 6-7mph.
 
The electronic fix will correct the speedometer at the expense of throwing off the odometer. The new speedometer face is the only way I know of to fix the speedometer and not mess up the odometer. Oh, and I do not know if or where the corrected speedometer face can be had.
 
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Just introducing myself on this thread as a wee owner.
Bought an '11 DL650 3.5yrs ago, been in Houston for 4 yrs now. I love my bike! Have lurked on this forum for a while and am just now starting to sign up for rides. Did the RawHyde training in Colorado last Summer - that was awesome!
Signed up for the MexTrek this coming October - would love to have a few more wee riders on the trip.

In preparation I want to do some rides through Sam Houston NF over the next few months. Anyone take a vstrom through there that can offer some counsel?

On my way to Colorado last Summer, was going to ride my own bike, my stator went out. Had to leave the bike in Waco. Rented one of the BMWs there in Colorado for the training.
 
Colorado has more paved and unpaved roads than you can count. Any ideas where you'll be heading?
 
I am new to the forum and new to any bike that shifts on the left. My last new bike was a 74 Norton commando, which I still have.
That being said I now have an 05 DL650 which is a pleasure to ride and I enjoy riding with others in the area. The only issue I have is with the speedometer, it reads about 10% high. I have checked with others I ride with and the answer is "they all do that". Is there anyway to correct that without breaking the bank?

SpeedoDRD by 12oclocklabs.com $79, works like a charm. You can tell the speedo to read high or low in any percentage from 0.01 to 99.9.

You need model S1, plug and play...
http://shop.12oclocklabs.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=59
 
Got stator replaced Thursday, only took less than two hours. Thank you for great service Central Texas Powersports Georgetown for great service.
One thing I didn't think of is they have to change oil, and I just changed mine. I should have waited. Also if you use a synthetic or other brand than Suzuki 10-40 take 3 quarts with you to recall repair.
Also I think it is the square little box that is hooked to stator that goes bad, but it is soldered to harness . Is this a diode?
The stator looked like new with 20K miles on it. I also want to check wire slices to see if shrink wrapped, if not I will. The stator 4 wires get cut loose from harness then reattached, I will post method used later ( guessing crimp connectors)
 

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Got stator replaced Thursday, only took less than two hours. Thank you for great service Central Texas Powersports Georgetown for great service.
One thing I didn't think of is they have to change oil, and I just changed mine. I should have waited. Also if you use a synthetic or other brand than Suzuki 10-40 take 3 quarts with you to recall repair.
Also I think it is the square little box that is hooked to stator that goes bad, but it is soldered to harness . Is this a diode?
The stator looked like new with 20K miles on it. I also want to check wire slices to see if shrink wrapped, if not I will. The stator 4 wires get cut loose from harness then reattached, I will post method used later ( guessing crimp connectors)

The stator wires do not get cut and spliced - the replacement comes with the wiring and connectors and just connects just like the old one.
The box is your voltage regulator and part of the reason the stator goes bad. The stock regulator is a shunt regulator which means your stator is always running under full load = hot. A big thread on StromTroopers about replacing the shunt with a series regulator to help stator life and about the stator recall in general.
 
The stator wires do not get cut and spliced - the replacement comes with the wiring and connectors and just connects just like the old one.
The box is your voltage regulator and part of the reason the stator goes bad. The stock regulator is a shunt regulator which means your stator is always running under full load = hot. A big thread on StromTroopers about replacing the shunt with a series regulator to help stator life and about the stator recall in general.

Hey thanks for information, I just asked to see it and didn't look that hard. Is the new stator improved to last longer?
Anyway CTPS did an excellent job of taking care of it, no hassle.
 
If anyone knows someone looking for a deal on a Wee. The dealer is offering very little for a trade in. So I am very "flexible" at this point. I'll make someone a smoking deal on a 2012 Wee. It needs the stator, not that I've had issues. But it is also due for an oil change soon so that's why I've waited..

It's in the for sale section has been for quite awhile but my expectations have taken a hard reset..... So this is short lived I'm almost ready to take the bath on it. I'd repost to it but am waiting till I see the new offer today.

If it goes in 24 hours $4500 OBO
 
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Sos... riding to work today, stopped for gas, and as I left the headlights did not come on! The bike has been sitting for about three weeks under a cover at my apt. This is the first winter outside. Fuse?

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Sos... riding to work today, stopped for gas, and as I left the headlights did not come on! The bike has been sitting for about three weeks under a cover at my apt. This is the first winter outside. Fuse?

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Socket meltdown? I just installed the Eastern Beaver headlight harness to avoid that. Haven't had a problem but I don't like the idea of being left in the dark if I can avoid it.
 
Lots of information about this on the Stromtrooper forum. Most likely culprit is the starter button. All of the power for the headlights go thru this button, when you depress it, it cuts off the headlights while you start it, eventually causing the switch to go bad. Second likely is the plug at the end of the wire loom coming from this switch. It is fastened on the back and top of the radiator shroud and a bear to get to. The switch is not replaceable, you need to buy the whole switchgear. The main thing to prevent it is to put in a headlight relay kit, Eastern Beaver makes one that is plug n play. Do check all fuses first just in case, and with the key off maybe hit the starter button a few times to see if it can maybe make contact.
 
Ah, yes, I forgot about hearing about starter button issues. Theirry had a thread here about that problem IIRC. When I installed the Eastern Beaver headlight harness, I was surprised how dinky the OEM sockets are. And, as others have reported, the headlights are indeed brighter with the new harness.
 
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