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Old 04-18-2008, 05:19 PM   #1
The Bruce
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Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

The desert was calling. We answered. On Tuesday, April 1, five friends and I loaded up our dirt machines and headed west for the beautiful Big Bend area of Texas. Our mission: Four days of riding back country roads. Since then I've been collecting photos and videos from everyone to compile into a report. I still have one set to get my hands on, you know who you are, but I've got a day with nothing else going on so I'm starting on the report anyway. So, here we go!

Day 1:
We started gathering at first light. Pflugerville, my house , was centrally located for the group so that was the rally point. We had an Excursion and a 16 foot trailer to haul 6 full size adults, their bikes, and the gear. Plenty of room.

How many does it take to tie down a KLR?


Loaded and ready to go. Four KLR 650s, one KTM 525EXC, and my DRZ400.


Lunch at Cooper's BBQ in Junction. A little pricey but good eatin'.


Ribs....yummmm!


We chose the single vehicle plan to trim the cost of the trip. The Excursion had good range even though it was chugging along at less than 10 mpg . Even so, it cost less than taking more trucks. First stop along the way was Alpine. The air was cool and a good breeze was blowing. Next stop, Terlinqua. We arrived around 6 pm. Perfect.

Standard procedure for us is to sleep in the desert. There is a primitive camp site in the national park that we usually occupy. This time we opted for showers, a real toilet, and eating in restaurants. We booked the large cabin at the Chisos Mining Company. Nice folks and decent accommodations for 6.



Our little pink house for the next 5 nights.


Inside




The views from the parking lot. You can see why they call this Easter Egg Valley.






With the bikes unloaded and gear stowed it was time to go in search of FOOD. The obvious choice for the first night was The Starlight Theater. A Terlinqua classic.



View from the front porch.


The food was fine. The drinks were cold. The band was good. The waitress friendly. All was well in the universe, as far as we were concerned. Tomorrow, we ride!

Last edited by The Bruce; 05-13-2010 at 09:41 AM. Reason: broken photo links
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:23 PM   #2
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

MORE!!!!
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:58 PM   #3
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

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MORE!!!!
Patience....I had to feed the machine. Back to work now.
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Old 04-18-2008, 07:17 PM   #4
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

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MORE!!!!
Ditto, looks like a great time!
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Old 04-18-2008, 09:41 PM   #5
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Day 2: BBNP Loop

The plan for the day; eat, ride, refuel, eat, ride, refuel, eat, sleep. Sounds simple right? Well, that's the plan for every day out in Big Bend. The actual plan for today was to ride a clockwise loop around Big Bend National Park covering as much dirt as possible while staying on the roads. No problem. Bikes all checked out we headed for the first goal, eat. This was going to be easy since the Chisos Mining Co. Motel is right next to Kathy's Kosmic Kowgirl Kafe, the traditional breakfast for a dual sport ride starting in Terlinqua. But, what's this? Closed? I suppose she gets a day or two off now and then. So plan "B" was consulted and off we went. Destination; The Chili Pepper Café in Study Butte.



Very good food, more formal than Kathy's since the waitress comes to your table (can anything in Terlingua be called formal?), and it was nice sitting on the front porch enjoying the cool morning. Typical breakfast choices to include tacos, migas, standard egg plates, all of it good. Lots of bikes this day, as you can see. We had a real nice conversation with the couple that was riding the BMW GS in the front of the photo. Didn't ask their age but I would guess pretty close to 80. The were from Oregon, IIRC, and were making their way back home from a 4,000 mile trip through Mexico. Obviously they were taking the scenic route. You meet the nicest people on two wheels. Breakfast done it was time to put on the game face......



We started by heading back into Terlingua to catch South County Rd. and followed it through to North County Rd. The morning was cool with the normal 10% humidity. Sweet! We were excited to get on the road so we rode. We made one stop at this crossing of what I believe was Terlinqua Creek and got a quick picture.


There was a brief side trip here that resulted in an unplanned stoppie and an ungraceful dismount. That's a story for later with the photos I don't have yet....calling David!

We made the transit of the county roads north of Terlingua without meeting a single vehicle on the road. I like it like that. After riding a few miles north on the blacktop that is TX118 we were back on the dirt. Taking it nice and slow past the houses we climbed over one good hill and back down to the valley that holds Ament Lake. We crossed the valley and started climb up a very loose rocky road to the summit and the pass that leads in to HQ area of Terlingua Ranch. This is the highest point of the road looking back west toward Ament Lake. A great view and nice place to stop for photos.





We stop at this spot several times during our wanderings so there will be more photos of this place. This is the view as you come through the pass into the valley to the east. Nice vista.



This was one of those days in Big Bend that was very hazy. It tends to wash out the color in the photos. Luckily we were only afflicted with this situation for the first day. The wind would change direction the next day and all would clear up.

Continuing on Ament lake road we made our way to the east and the intersection with Terlingua Ranch Rd. We took a left on the very well maintained hard packed road. We followed the signs continuing east to Marathon Rd. The road was still maintained but the surface got quite a bit softer. We'll just go ahead and call it sand. The way to deal with sand is to apply the throttle and shift weight to the rear. This works well on this road that's a full two lanes wide with sweeping curves. I try hard to not ride faster than I can see to maintain a safe margin. But then there will be a 90 degree corner with deep sand. This gets fun especially since there is a pile of old tires blocking the overrun area. The trick is slowing down enough to make the corner without causing the front to plow sand and get crossed up. We all make it through OK, I know I had to go around a few tires but stayed on two wheels. I was eating dust in the rear but I could tell by the tire tracks that I wasn't the only one that took that route. I just can't say if it was someone in our group.

In short order we made it to the intersection of US 385 and Marathon Rd. in BBNP. Time for a brake to stretch the legs and tell short stories.


Continuing south on 385 to Dagger Flats were we headed east again until we came to Old Ore Rd. This is a fun road. Perry stopped to catch one short video.


There is a scenic overlook about half way through that makes a nice photo op. The hazy condition shows up here.


Perry contemplating the view.


Taking a left at the end of Old Ore on Rio Grand Village Dr. would take us through the tunnel to, you guessed it, Rio Grand Village.

Different riding styles.....
Dave


David


Me. I guess I missed the briefing.


Time to refuel and eat. This was about the midway point in our journey for the day. Gas was expensive, $3.86 IIRC, but still cheaper than folks are paying for diesel today. We snacked on convenience store grub and re hydrated with personal favorites.



Then somebody mentioned Hot Springs and a plan was made on the spot. We loaded up some cool drinks and headed of in the direction of the Hot Spring on the river.

Riding Tip: Always wear someting you can swim in under your gear. You never know what opportunity may present itself.



One of us who shall remain unnamed keeping up international relations.


They swim both directions down here.


The hot water felt good, would have been better if the air temp was 60 instead of 85, but it was good anyway. My favorite spot is just over the edge of the wall where you can move a couple of inches and go from hot water to the cold water of the river. Ah, that's good.

Refreshed we walked back to the bikes to continue the journey. This photo looks really out of place. It could be a Caribbean Island.


Now it was off to River Rd. running west. I had read in other members reports about the road maintenance so I was ready for the worst. I am happy to report the road was almost completed with it's maintenance. We saw some vehicles parked but no workers. Maybe the fact that it was already after 4 p.m. had something to do with that. ALL the rough spots had been smoothed over and filled in. The road was in very good condition. We rode without stopping to the intersection with Glen Springs Rd. We took that north to the intersection with Black Gap and headed west again. This is by far the roughest road in the park. Rocky with ruts you have to maneuver through and around. Finally the main attraction, the Black Gap.



The white Jeep entering the gap from the west was rented by a couple from Europe. He was contemplating an attempt, he had insurance after all. He changed his mind and backed out, right into a large boulder. We started yelling and got his attention in time to reduce the damage to a little tap under the rear bumper. Just a scratch. We continued onto rejoin River Rd. west of the mine. The road was perfect so we moved on at a good pace. A little too good because we didn't stop to take any pictures.

I'll take this opportunity to say I am soooooo glad I bought the DRZ. My last trip here I was riding my '96 Tiger. Link This bike is a whole lot easier to ride in these conditions. I had little trouble with the sandy parts or the rocky parts. I was able to travel at speeds generally 2 to 3 times what I could handle on the Tiger. Anyone who rides a heavy trailie, the lighter bike is a blast.

We arrived at the Castolon Store to find it closed. Bummer but a nice break anyway.


Back on the bikes we continued west to Old Maverick Rd. This was a short run up to Panther Junction Rd and out of the park to Study Butte. We were back at the cabin well before dark. 200 miles for this little loop around the park. On arrival, Phil informed us he had acquired a flat somewhere on Old Maverick. Out came the tools and he got to work.



With so many KLR riders there was plenty of help, and a supervisor.


A good example of a field expedient bike stand.


Time still left for all to shower before heading out to dinner. We liked breakfast so much the consensus was back to the Chili Pepper for dinner. Upon our return we had a little visitor waiting for us.



David had to play with him a little. Feisty little fellow.


The day was done. That's it for the report today. Three more days of riding to follow. I hope this all turns out. I've been fighting the 'puter and have no idea if the videos will work. Everything is moving very slow. I can't get the videos to load.

Last edited by The Bruce; 05-13-2010 at 03:07 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 04-18-2008, 10:41 PM   #6
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

Looks like I have the video thing sorted out. I only had to reload MS Exploder and Flash Player 9.
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Old 04-18-2008, 11:08 PM   #7
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

excellent!!!
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Old 04-19-2008, 04:26 AM   #8
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

Awesome!
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Old 04-19-2008, 06:51 AM   #9
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

we were there in Dec and I rode Old Ore road the other way. I took it slowly and took in all the scenery.
from main road


first camp area


road


I didn't know what was down this road now I kick myself for not going there


Dagger flats is right over the hill



more pictures here
http://ysr612.smugmug.com/Family/423488

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Old 04-19-2008, 08:34 AM   #10
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

Ernst Tinaja is an interesting side trip. It's worth the extra time to see. Several natural pools caused by erosion up in a canyon. We've seen most of the sights over the years so we spend most of the time riding.
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Old 04-19-2008, 08:51 AM   #11
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

WOW!!! Great write up!
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Old 04-19-2008, 09:08 AM   #12
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

Loving it! We live here and you're showing me places I haven't been.

Yet.

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Old 04-19-2008, 09:23 AM   #13
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Day 3: Bones

The third day started with the same plan; eat, ride, refuel, eat, ride, refuel, eat, sleep. But you know what they say about the best laid plans of mice and men. Had to take care of business first. The daily chores; chains, tires, oil, all checked and ready to go.

This works well.


A proper center stand is very handy though.


Now, before the squid comments start flying, we don't ride dressed like that. With the bikes taken care of it was time to move on the the first part of the plan, eat. We cranked up and took the 60 second ride down to Kathy's Kosmic Kowgirl Kafe'. This time we weren't disappointed.


Awsome breakfast burritos preceeded by interesting conversation. If you haven't been before, don't go if you are on a schedule. That just isn't part of the operation here. The food is prepared fresh and doesn't come out 'till it's ready. It is worth the wait though. The conversation was provided by the gentleman in the yellow shirt in the middle of the photo. Called himself TJ. Said he grew up in Terlingua and now that he's retired he spends most of his time there. The story of the day included Oliver North, smuggling weapons for the Contras across the border labeled as frozen chickens, and a shootout with border guards that resulted in the closing of one of the old border crossings by the Mexican gov't. True? Who knows, maybe. It was a good story anyway. With breakfast tucked away nicely it was on to the ride. The loosley crafted plan was to ride around Terlingua in areas we hadn't already covered. First was the area north and east Study Butte known as Moon Valley. Like before we spent time riding and not smelling flowers. Scenery is ever changing around here and each turn brings a different landscape.



There are sections out here that have some of the deepest sand we would encounter on this trip. David was struggling with his KLR since there were few areas where he could get enough speed to float the front wheel and he doesn't carry the bulk to be able to shift his weight like the rest of us can. There are advantages to being heavy, some times. Anyway this was after the fourth fall in about 100 yards....


My first site was of him lying under the bike struggling to extricate himself. The photo had to wait until I could help get him freed. I thought he had hit the rocks since he had a limp as he was getting up, but that worked itself out to be just a slight twist of his ankle. He was getting very tired though. But what can you do; you get back on and keep riding. So that's what we did. The road became very twisty like a roller coaster. Up and down small hills and winding around corners. We nicely spread out due to differing speeds and avoiding the dust. Suddenly I rounded a corner to find this.....



Perry had gone down and it didn't look good. We parked the bikes around to warn any traffic that might happen upon us, not likely since we rarely see anyone out on these roads but we did it anyway. Next we tended to Perry. By then he had his boot off and his foot was already swelling and turning a nice shade of purple. Sorry, no good pictures of the carnage yet. I think David has one or two. Diagnosis was at least two dislocated toes with possible fractures. All we could do was elevate the limb and make him comfortable.



Dave rode on to get with Chris and Phil as they would be waiting up ahead somewhere at the next intersection. We assesed Perry's bike: broken clutch lever and the bars had rotated in the clamps a little. We repalced the lever, made some adustments and the bike was rideable. The plan was for Chris, Phil and Dave to ride back to Terlingua and return with the Excursion. Chris and Dave would take Perry to Alpine, 80 miles away, and Phil would ride Perry's bike back to the cabin. We moved one of the bikes next to P and provided some shade with one of the jackets draped over the handel bars. We had time to kill so we moved on to accident reconstruction. The turn was a sharp right hander with a hump at the apex and off camber downhill as you exit. Nasty for sure. From what P said he began to slide coming through the turn and the brand new D606 suddenly caught causing a high side which pitched him off the bike. You can see the slide marks in the photo. His toe was pointing down and the bike landed on his heel driving his foot into the road surface. He was wearing light hiking boots that did not hold up very well to the loading and his foot took the hit. He had good bruising and abrasions on his heel and just above on the back of his leg. We were there for at least an hour waiting for a ride. Nice scenery though.





Finally help arrived. Being the jokers that we all are, Chris, Phil and Dave were hanging out the windows making siren noises as they pulled up.

Some comments about having to bring the whaaambulance. Perry was loaded up and off to Alpine they went. The plan was to meet back at the cabin later.

This day's story will be continued later. I'm off to work and will post more if I can. If not It may not be until Monday. Stay tuned.

Last edited by The Bruce; 05-13-2010 at 03:28 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 04-19-2008, 09:25 AM   #14
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

Quote:
Originally Posted by Voni View Post
Loving it! We live here and you're showing me places I haven't been.

Yet.

Voni
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That's funny 'cause a lot of the time we don't know where we are either. We use GPS as a last resort. It's more fun that way.
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Old 04-19-2008, 09:26 AM   #15
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

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WOW!!! Great write up!
Thanks Jeff.
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Old 04-19-2008, 09:45 PM   #16
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

Bummer about Perry. What's the prognosis? Hiking boots offer less protection than MX boots and my ankle fractured in MX boots. It could have been a lot worse for Perry. I hope he's doing better.

Glad to see you enjoying yourself down there on the little bike. Fun, isn't it? Can't wait to get back down there around Xmas myself, back on the Sherpie.

Okay, more stories!!!!
(where's my popcorn???)
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Old 04-20-2008, 09:40 AM   #17
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

thanks man, now I have another bike to add to the list and another trip, to add to the list. sooner or later my wife is going to block this site.

great pics! I really want to do a trip like this eventually
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Old 04-20-2008, 11:31 AM   #18
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

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Bummer about Perry. What's the prognosis? Hiking boots offer less protection than MX boots and my ankle fractured in MX boots. It could have been a lot worse for Perry. I hope he's doing better.

Glad to see you enjoying yourself down there on the little bike. Fun, isn't it? Can't wait to get back down there around Xmas myself, back on the Sherpie.

Okay, more stories!!!!
(where's my popcorn???)
Prognosis; broke big toe, broke bone in foot, two dislocated toes, a pin and a couple plates with screws. He's back at work today. Off the bike for at least six weeks. But he'll be back.

As far as boots go it's hard to say. I'll opt for more protection. David went down many times on his KLR while struggling with the sand, his leg pinned under the bike on several of them. He was sore but nothing broke. But then again, no two falls are the same.

The saga will continue Monday. I only have a couple of minutes here before we head out for the rest of the day.
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Old 04-20-2008, 11:32 AM   #19
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

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thanks man, now I have another bike to add to the list and another trip, to add to the list. sooner or later my wife is going to block this site.

great pics! I really want to do a trip like this eventually
Even if you just ride the paved roads out there it's worth the trip. Do it!
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Old 04-20-2008, 07:24 PM   #20
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Re: Big Bend: Can't get enough! (lots of pics/videos)

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Prognosis; broke big toe, broke bone in foot, two dislocated toes, a pin and a couple plates with screws. He's back at work today. Off the bike for at least six weeks. But he'll be back. .
I can empathize.

Looking forward to more stories and photos!
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