- Joined
- Nov 7, 2007
- Messages
- 2,071
- Reaction score
- 1
- Location
- Antelope Valley CA
- First Name
- Scott
- Last Name
- Brown
My Bandit 1250 S/AK7
I finally started on the naked conversion on my 07 1250S on Oct 21st, and just finished it up yesterday
Prior to the tear down, I took care of several things that needed to be done in order to fit the factory A model frame neck covers, which were to relocating the EVAP canister valve which is mounted on the left side of the frame behind the cowling, and my Fiam horn which I had mounted on the right side of the frame behind the cowling where the EVAP canister used to reside.
I mounted the horn to the aluminum cover plate that replaces the stock plastic ABS module cover below the battery box. The horn fits nicely in this area and is totally out of view when the plate is mounted. I then extended the stock horn leads back to the new relay location, which I mounted to the existing mount for my battery tender plug after making a the small mounting tab and splitting the round standoff spacer for the battery tender mount to accept the relay mounting tab.
I relocated the EVAP canister valve using a simple aluminum mounting bracket I made that mounts using the bolt that attaches the thermostat housing to the frame.
These are the new custom adjustable aluminum handle bar mirror mounts that I made to accept the stock mirrors, which work great as I had already road tested them quite a bit before the actual tear down with the cowling still mounted. They have a similar adjustable arm like my mirror extenders that I sell for the cowling mounted mirrors, and I like the view much better with the mirrors closer to me, and I had decided that even if I and wasn’t doing the naked conversion that I liked the way they looked better mounted to the bars and would have kept them mounted to the bars instead of on the cowling.
Here is the headlight I bought with the custom billet mounting adapters I machined for it and the custom billet headlight mounting brackets I made. I didn’t like the color on the bucket as it came, so I stripped it and powder coated it in semi gloss black.
I also pulled the forks off and removed the lower triple tree so that I could remove the nasty looking casting line that runs around the entire outer surface, and smooth it out and powder coated it semi gloss black to match the top triple tree which I had already done quite awhile ago. I also made up some new polished S/S pinch bolts for the lower triple tree that have a longer shank section on them which I polished so that now you don’t see the funky looking threads showing through the openings on the sides like the stock pinch bolts, and which looks a whole lot better, and I powder coated the custom aluminum front brake manifold on the lower triple tree in the same silver metallic, which was polished before. I also change the fork oil, greased the stem bearings and polished up the fork caps.
The cowling brace mounting bracket welded to the front of the steering neck looked like crap after I removed the cowling. So I machined up a lightweight aluminum cover that attaches to a simple aluminum mounting block that bolts to the cowling brace mounting bracket.
With the cowling removed a lot more of the radiator became visible, so I machined up some covers for the upper and lower radiator mounts.
The new A model speedo/tach lower case has a different location for the wiring harness connector from the US model lower case, so after carefully locating the where top cut the new opening for the connector, I used a heated up exacto knife blade to make the opening. I then machined up an aluminum filler plate for the UK wiring harness connector hole, and attached it with silicone sealant.
A tywrap secures the wiring harness to the speedo/tack mounting bracket and keeps the rubber cover on the plug up tight against the back of the lower case to help keep the connection protected. The speedo/tach mounting bracket also had to be modified by cutting off and unused mounting tab, which after I cut off and smoothed out, the bracket got powder coated in semi gloss black.
The frame neck covers required quite a bit of fiddling to get them to mount properly, as the top front mounting point is a round standoff incorporated into the covers with a little rounded barb on the end that just pushes into a rubber grommet that installs into an existing hole in the frame. With the standoff pushed into the rubber grommet, the back 6mm mounting screw just barely lined up through the hole in the rubber grommet in the cover and into the threaded hole in the frame.
Then when I went to install the lower front mounting screw, which is only a screw with no rubber grommet in the cover, which I thought was strange, as the screw is the only part listed in the Suzuki parts schematic, with no cushion at all between the cover and the frame, plus the hole in the frame was way over to one side of the hole in the frame neck cover on both sides.
So what I had to end up making to get the lower mounting bolts to line up to the threaded holes in the frame was to make two special 5/8” diameter x .09 thick aluminum washers which I milled a slot into from the center hole out towards the edge of the washers which allows them to fit down into the recesses on the covers while also allowing the screws to line up with the threaded holes in the frame. I then punched out four .06 thick x 5/8” diameter neoprene washers with a ¼’ hole offset in two of them to match the offset holes in the outer washers, and the other two washers with the ¼’ holes centered on the washers for the back side of the covers.
I also made up two more .09 thick aluminum washers with ¼” centered holes to go on the back side of the covers against the mounting holes on the frame, so that when it was all assembled I had rubber washers on each side of the holes in the frame neck covers, with aluminum washers on each side of the rubber washers with the mounting screw going through all four of the washers and into the threaded holes in the frame. This ended up working great, but I was very disappointed that the mounting points did not line up better than they did, but their both mounted properly and cushioned with rubber at all three mounting points. I also machined up two custom aluminum washers for the two rear frame neck cover mounting screws
I’m really pleased with how the project came out, and I love the look of it, and I took it out for a short test ride yesterday afternoon, and the first thing I noticed was how much quieter the engine and bike sounds compared to the noise and buzzing that came from the cowling, and so far the small sport screen seems to do a pretty good job at keeping the wind off of my chest, but I plan to take a longer ride this weekend to check it out some more. The other thing I also immediately noticed was how much lighter the bike feels when maneuvering it, and after 5 years, it’s like a got a brand new Bandit.
I finally started on the naked conversion on my 07 1250S on Oct 21st, and just finished it up yesterday
Prior to the tear down, I took care of several things that needed to be done in order to fit the factory A model frame neck covers, which were to relocating the EVAP canister valve which is mounted on the left side of the frame behind the cowling, and my Fiam horn which I had mounted on the right side of the frame behind the cowling where the EVAP canister used to reside.
I mounted the horn to the aluminum cover plate that replaces the stock plastic ABS module cover below the battery box. The horn fits nicely in this area and is totally out of view when the plate is mounted. I then extended the stock horn leads back to the new relay location, which I mounted to the existing mount for my battery tender plug after making a the small mounting tab and splitting the round standoff spacer for the battery tender mount to accept the relay mounting tab.
I relocated the EVAP canister valve using a simple aluminum mounting bracket I made that mounts using the bolt that attaches the thermostat housing to the frame.
These are the new custom adjustable aluminum handle bar mirror mounts that I made to accept the stock mirrors, which work great as I had already road tested them quite a bit before the actual tear down with the cowling still mounted. They have a similar adjustable arm like my mirror extenders that I sell for the cowling mounted mirrors, and I like the view much better with the mirrors closer to me, and I had decided that even if I and wasn’t doing the naked conversion that I liked the way they looked better mounted to the bars and would have kept them mounted to the bars instead of on the cowling.
Here is the headlight I bought with the custom billet mounting adapters I machined for it and the custom billet headlight mounting brackets I made. I didn’t like the color on the bucket as it came, so I stripped it and powder coated it in semi gloss black.
I also pulled the forks off and removed the lower triple tree so that I could remove the nasty looking casting line that runs around the entire outer surface, and smooth it out and powder coated it semi gloss black to match the top triple tree which I had already done quite awhile ago. I also made up some new polished S/S pinch bolts for the lower triple tree that have a longer shank section on them which I polished so that now you don’t see the funky looking threads showing through the openings on the sides like the stock pinch bolts, and which looks a whole lot better, and I powder coated the custom aluminum front brake manifold on the lower triple tree in the same silver metallic, which was polished before. I also change the fork oil, greased the stem bearings and polished up the fork caps.
The cowling brace mounting bracket welded to the front of the steering neck looked like crap after I removed the cowling. So I machined up a lightweight aluminum cover that attaches to a simple aluminum mounting block that bolts to the cowling brace mounting bracket.
With the cowling removed a lot more of the radiator became visible, so I machined up some covers for the upper and lower radiator mounts.
The new A model speedo/tach lower case has a different location for the wiring harness connector from the US model lower case, so after carefully locating the where top cut the new opening for the connector, I used a heated up exacto knife blade to make the opening. I then machined up an aluminum filler plate for the UK wiring harness connector hole, and attached it with silicone sealant.
A tywrap secures the wiring harness to the speedo/tack mounting bracket and keeps the rubber cover on the plug up tight against the back of the lower case to help keep the connection protected. The speedo/tach mounting bracket also had to be modified by cutting off and unused mounting tab, which after I cut off and smoothed out, the bracket got powder coated in semi gloss black.
The frame neck covers required quite a bit of fiddling to get them to mount properly, as the top front mounting point is a round standoff incorporated into the covers with a little rounded barb on the end that just pushes into a rubber grommet that installs into an existing hole in the frame. With the standoff pushed into the rubber grommet, the back 6mm mounting screw just barely lined up through the hole in the rubber grommet in the cover and into the threaded hole in the frame.
Then when I went to install the lower front mounting screw, which is only a screw with no rubber grommet in the cover, which I thought was strange, as the screw is the only part listed in the Suzuki parts schematic, with no cushion at all between the cover and the frame, plus the hole in the frame was way over to one side of the hole in the frame neck cover on both sides.
So what I had to end up making to get the lower mounting bolts to line up to the threaded holes in the frame was to make two special 5/8” diameter x .09 thick aluminum washers which I milled a slot into from the center hole out towards the edge of the washers which allows them to fit down into the recesses on the covers while also allowing the screws to line up with the threaded holes in the frame. I then punched out four .06 thick x 5/8” diameter neoprene washers with a ¼’ hole offset in two of them to match the offset holes in the outer washers, and the other two washers with the ¼’ holes centered on the washers for the back side of the covers.
I also made up two more .09 thick aluminum washers with ¼” centered holes to go on the back side of the covers against the mounting holes on the frame, so that when it was all assembled I had rubber washers on each side of the holes in the frame neck covers, with aluminum washers on each side of the rubber washers with the mounting screw going through all four of the washers and into the threaded holes in the frame. This ended up working great, but I was very disappointed that the mounting points did not line up better than they did, but their both mounted properly and cushioned with rubber at all three mounting points. I also machined up two custom aluminum washers for the two rear frame neck cover mounting screws
I’m really pleased with how the project came out, and I love the look of it, and I took it out for a short test ride yesterday afternoon, and the first thing I noticed was how much quieter the engine and bike sounds compared to the noise and buzzing that came from the cowling, and so far the small sport screen seems to do a pretty good job at keeping the wind off of my chest, but I plan to take a longer ride this weekend to check it out some more. The other thing I also immediately noticed was how much lighter the bike feels when maneuvering it, and after 5 years, it’s like a got a brand new Bandit.
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