- Joined
- Aug 31, 2007
- Messages
- 1,023
- Reaction score
- 10
- Location
- Beaumont, Texas
- First Name
- Ken
- Last Name
- Phenix
I've been making my own electrics for 6 years.
http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51475
It's that time again.
I applied what I've learned to a new version jacket liner I call 3.0. Old 2.0 is still working fine, I wanted to streamline and tidy things
up a bit. So this time I decided to combine my thermal base layer and heated jacket into one garment. I almost never wear the
electrics without the base layer too. I found this Freeze-out brand zippered top they call a "gilet." Its thick poly fleece lined material
is plenty robust enough to hold the wiring. As before I plan to tuck it in like a shirt to prevent the wind from coming up between my
back and the heat. http://www.cyclegear.com/CycleGear/Street/...CFeJDMgodAS4A8Q
For the first time I used a machine zig zag stitch to attach the wires - much neater.
I learned the hard way to take it slow with the machine. Once I hit the nichrome squarely with the needle - the needle won. It was an
easy fix. As with the assembly, I used an unshielded butt connector crimped, then filled with solder and covered with shrink tube.
In order to get the snug fit I wanted I had to settle for sleeves that were too short. So I cannibalized my old army surplus base layer
and sewed the sleeves inside to add a couple inches to the cuffs and to make a double layer up to just below the elbow. This worked
out well as the arms are heated only in the bicep area where I feel the wind the most. Also, I left the glove Y-cord out this time and
attached it to my outer jacket. Now I won't have to don the heated jacket just to power the gloves on shorter commutes or milder
temps. Before I was wearing the jacket liner without turning it on about half the time.
The wiring is essentially the same as the previous version. There are six 54" loops of 26ga nichrome around the body of the jacket
(4 in front, 2 in back) and one 54" loop in the bicep area of each arm. Each loop produces 15 watts. (15 x 8 = overkill)
I noticed on version 2.0 the resistance wire would bulge through the hand stitching as the fabric moved.
This time I did not stitch the top of each section of wire to allow for expansion. I can also give it a pull at the top to straighten it out if
I need to. I hand stitched the wires to the back of the left pocket so I'd be able to store the power pig tail inside. I just machine stitched
through the right pocket since I didn't need it.
The power pig tail runs through the pocket for easy storage.
Here's a shot of the back. As before I took care to ensure there is no wiring at the belt line so I can comfortably tuck it in.
I think I'm going to like this one much better.
Anyway, it's all here: http://kphenix.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hom...acket/i-3N6hX5W
Enjoy!
http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=51475
It's that time again.
I applied what I've learned to a new version jacket liner I call 3.0. Old 2.0 is still working fine, I wanted to streamline and tidy things
up a bit. So this time I decided to combine my thermal base layer and heated jacket into one garment. I almost never wear the
electrics without the base layer too. I found this Freeze-out brand zippered top they call a "gilet." Its thick poly fleece lined material
is plenty robust enough to hold the wiring. As before I plan to tuck it in like a shirt to prevent the wind from coming up between my
back and the heat. http://www.cyclegear.com/CycleGear/Street/...CFeJDMgodAS4A8Q
For the first time I used a machine zig zag stitch to attach the wires - much neater.
I learned the hard way to take it slow with the machine. Once I hit the nichrome squarely with the needle - the needle won. It was an
easy fix. As with the assembly, I used an unshielded butt connector crimped, then filled with solder and covered with shrink tube.
In order to get the snug fit I wanted I had to settle for sleeves that were too short. So I cannibalized my old army surplus base layer
and sewed the sleeves inside to add a couple inches to the cuffs and to make a double layer up to just below the elbow. This worked
out well as the arms are heated only in the bicep area where I feel the wind the most. Also, I left the glove Y-cord out this time and
attached it to my outer jacket. Now I won't have to don the heated jacket just to power the gloves on shorter commutes or milder
temps. Before I was wearing the jacket liner without turning it on about half the time.
The wiring is essentially the same as the previous version. There are six 54" loops of 26ga nichrome around the body of the jacket
(4 in front, 2 in back) and one 54" loop in the bicep area of each arm. Each loop produces 15 watts. (15 x 8 = overkill)
I noticed on version 2.0 the resistance wire would bulge through the hand stitching as the fabric moved.
This time I did not stitch the top of each section of wire to allow for expansion. I can also give it a pull at the top to straighten it out if
I need to. I hand stitched the wires to the back of the left pocket so I'd be able to store the power pig tail inside. I just machine stitched
through the right pocket since I didn't need it.
The power pig tail runs through the pocket for easy storage.
Here's a shot of the back. As before I took care to ensure there is no wiring at the belt line so I can comfortably tuck it in.
I think I'm going to like this one much better.
Anyway, it's all here: http://kphenix.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Hom...acket/i-3N6hX5W
Enjoy!