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"Basket Case" Norton P11 Ranger 750 resurrection

Joined
May 18, 2006
Messages
1,967
Reaction score
2,012
Location
Leander
First Name
Paul
Last Name
Zuniga
I've been gathering parts bikes from a friend as payment for a Yamaha SR500 make-run and mild street tracker mods; now we're finalizing the second half of the deal, a make-run and refurbishing of an early Honda CB750K Four, with final payment in the form of a basket case P11.

Here's what I'm starting with...

Frame with Rube Goldberg footpeg mounting setup (amazing contraptions)

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Engine was extracted by previous someone in one entire lump, pretty handy (can't do that with a Commando without a HUGE headache)

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Literal "basket" of miscellaneous parts

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Continuing photos of the stuff that was included...

Very nice seat, only has a parted seam at the nose that can easily be fixed-

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Wheels are rough, but the front tire is (was) new, and AL the axle bits are in place-

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Can't seem to find any kind of bracket(s) for the rear fender; I suppose the cones on the ends of the frame are correct?

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Just a few more pix of the parts...

VERY rusty pipes, rusted through in several places and overall heavy coat of finish rust-

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Nicely painted (wrong color) sidecover & oil tank, decent set of meters-

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Tank has some scratches and scuffs from being moved around over the years since it was painted-

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Did an inventory of all the parts Monday and found VERY few bits missing. Nice.

Started with cleaning up the forks; they'll need new gaiters, that's about it. There were no steering head bearings, dug up a handful at my friend's place a couple blocks away (I'm still on the "good" side of borrowing bits & bobs from each other over the years). Dug through my bins of mixed spares and came up with reasonably similar upper and lower headlight ear spacers, one set was missing; you can hardly tell the difference from 10 feet.

Installed forks & yokes w/ headlight ears; steering damper stuff is all there-

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Tuesday: Rear wheel & shocks installed; all 4 shock bolts & nuts were missing, EVERYTHING else was there including the slotted spacers & working speedo drive-

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Installed front wheel & rusty handlebars-

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So, now it's a rolling chassis. Sorry for the poor lighting and lousy phone camera shots here...

Rolled it over to where the engine was sitting, laid the engine over on some boat cushions-

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Laid the frame over the engine, wiggled it about 'till one of the rear engine mount holes lined up and dropped in a bolt-

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Voila! Engine installed.

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Cleaned up the carbs, lubed the cables, and set up throttle, enricher lever & clutch lever; all controls work fine-

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Slipped on the tank & seat just to see what it'll look like-

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So, that's about it for one night. 10 hours of work to this point, about what I had estimated to reasonably together and rolling The engine has EXCELLENT compression, it was SUPPOSEDLY rebuilt years ago and never re-installed, but it sure looks greasy, oily & dirty in ways that a rebuilt engine shouldn't look (caked in places). It is what it is, I'm reasonably sure it'll fire up.

After reviewing some other P11 pix, I think I've installed the front wheel wrong way 'round...
 
Wednesday: What a coincidence, I happened to have some steel tubing, exactly the correct diameter & length to custom fabricate my own rear fender loop. I used an old busted triumph cylinder in a vice to form it with; I should have taken pix of that... Anyway, I formed the fender mating section by bending it from the center point, right over the top two fins of the side of the Triumph jugs. Then I eyeballed it and clamped one side to one of the spigots and bent it 90 degrees to the top curve of the fender mating section. Test fit and it was darn near perfect. Formed up the opposite side and it slid in place like it was made for it; well, it was, actually.

I then slipped on the seat, and tied the fender up in place to "massage" the fit with a rubber mallet; only took 3 or 4 whacks. Next, I cut & drilled two tabs, rounded off the drilled ends and clamped them in place with C-clamp vice grips. After a bit of welding, I rattle-canned the whole affair and slipped it in place. Drilled for the two bolts at the rear frame tubes and that was that.

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Since I've never seen an OEM one, I'm not sure how close I got it. Anyway, it looks fine to me.

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I also flipped the front wheel around, installed the brake torque arm, cable, lever, and front fender-

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Installed the headlight bucket using a couple of spacers I found in one of my spares bins, installed the meter mount & meters, and popped the ammeter in for the photo-

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It's starting to look like a bike!

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Dropped off the pipes with a welder who will patch them for now (a good deal cheaper than replacing them at the moment).
 
Installed all the engine mounting bolts (one or two are a REAL hassle to get at the hidden primary side nuts & washers (no pix).

One thing about some long-term storage situations, mud dauber wasps LOVE to plug up bolt holes everywhere; not only that, they build big blob nests everywhere including INSIDE oil tanks!

Here's what came out after knocking it all loose; it's nearly a CUP FULL-

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Poured in about a quart of solvent and sloshed it around multiple times till the drain produced only clear liquid. i had been wondering what those strange sandwich clamps were for...

Oil tank installed-

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Also made a new oil manifold gasket, cleaned and re-installed the manifold (no pix)

That's it for today (Weds).
 
Keep those pics and stories coming. So far, I think you have a hit on your hands!
 
Back to work!

Pulled everything off the wiring harness and checked it over, wire insulation is awfully brittle; it'll need to be replaced, but is going on the bike carefully, with exposed sections taped over.

I fabricated this coil / condenser mounting bracket, it'll work nicely although it's probably another part that looks nothing like the original; condensers mount vertically between the coils, which mount the affair to the bracket on the frame-

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Cleaned up and installed all of the following-

Coils
Condensers
Light switch
Key switch
Headlight socket
Zener diode
Rectifier
Kill button
Dipper / horn switch
Front brake light switch
2MC capacitor

Had to install about a half-dozen connectors, including the points wires which were chopped instead of simply unplugged. Found the best battery in my stack of old/used ones, serviced it and stuck it on the charger, it came right up. EVERYTHING WORKED! Nice fat blue sparks from both plugs. Still need to clean up and install the horn and rear brake light switch, and check the tail light socket.

Dumped the sump (1/4 cup of very dark but free-flowing oil). Popped open the rocker caps to check around; valves were all properly adjusted, but it's evident the engine was NOT overhauled anytime in it's recent past. Slight sludge buildup in the corners, bits of black grit, etc. (hard to tell from this poor photo)-

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Installed the gas tank, new set of petcocks & fuel filters, oil lines, and spark plugs, then it was off to the gas station for a couple of gallons of gas.

Before dumping in the gas, I filled the oil tank about half way up, then knocked loose the rocker feed banjos and started kicking. Took 20-30 kicks to get a dribble up top, oh my aching leg.

Stuck on a set of chopped Commando pipes, rolled it out into the sunlight and started screwing with the carbs that wouldn't tickle. They were totally clean inside the bowls, even the screw-in low speed jets! Had to replace one bowl gasket to get the left carb to stop dribbling.

Gave it a proper tickle, squirted a shot of starter spray in each carb, and got after it. It took 3 kicks to get signs of life out of it, had it catching once, but I was worm out after all the pre-oiling; need to check the points and timing.

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Anyway, it's definitely going to be running by tomorrow, and I'll take a ride after I unstick the clutch and install the rear brake pedal. I SHOULD have the original pipes back from the welder who is patching them; I'll meed to work off a LOT of rust to make them look half presentable.

Just over 26 hours from basket case to runner, although the engine was already assembled.
 
One of the reasons I traded for this bike was to carefully examine the clutch system to make sure I had rebuilt a client's N15 properly; turns out I did in fact re-assemble it correctly, part-for-part.

Anyway, there was some significant crud in the primary case, and NO OIL!

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The main reason the clutch was sticking was it was RUSTED TOGETHER.

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One thing for sure, this primary case has never been off the power unit; the peenings for the set screws are still perfect (again, sorry for the cruddy cell phone photo quality)-

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Thanx to my knifemaker friend, Enrique, I no longer need to use my concrete shop floor to clean up my clutch plates, he has granted me a "long-term loan" of a dual-mode grinder; it uses both a 4" belt, AND a 12" disc. I made quick work of knocking the rust off the clutch plates; down to the staining without removing any steel-

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Primary all clean; the alternator rotor has the strongest magnets of any Lucas rotor I've seen-

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Last job for the day was to repair a broken timing side footpeg standoff stud by welding on a correct length bolt (didn't have extractor tools to remove the broken stub that was snapped off flush with the shoulder)-

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Only worked a few hours before dusk because I worked most of the day on a CAD drawing of a security gate for a friend.

The bike is ALMOST done; it's down to the rear brake pedal & rod, tail light connections, horn, proper fuel lines, and correct battery.
 
What a great documentation of a resurrection. I'll let the fact you're totally shaming me on my minor projects slide, and continue to enjoy your project. Thanks for keeping the thread rolling.
 
Yes, it runs, but I've been too busy to get a new chain on it and take it for a ride!

Just picked up an '03 Concours, had to whip my little Honda XL250 into shape as part of a 3-way trade (hadn't ridden it in 4 years, so it took all the usual carb cleaning and general de-filthifying).
 
Sorry my old photo hosting site is LONG GONE...
 
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