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Northwest - West Coast Road Trip

Joined
Sep 4, 2009
Messages
13,490
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2,860
Location
Centennial, CO
First Name
Tim
Last Name
Shelfer
I just got back from a 2-week trip that took me up through Wyoming, Idaho, across Oregon, down the Oregon and California coastline, and into the Bay area. The return trip was over the Sierra Nevada Mountains, across Nevada's High Sierra, through Utah, and back to Colorado.

No, I didn't ride the VStrom. My old bones just aren't up to that anymore. Instead, I drove my 2020 Subaru Legacy. Comfy, convenient, and 34mpg for the round trip. And don't let anybody tell you Subarus are slow. Mine is very much at home screaming up a mountain pass. I left on Saturday, Sep 23. Here's a recap, with pictures, of the trip. I meant to format the pictures a bit larger; my bad. Feel free to stretch your screen to see them better.

Most of the pictures were taken with my Nikon D5300 and a Sigma 18-250mm lens, some with my aging Galaxy phone, and a few are extracted from dashcam video.

Sat

I drove from my home in Centennial CO to Dubois WY. Why Dubois? Because it's the only place within 75 miles of the Tetons where you can get a room for under $250 a night.

First stop: Independence Rock, WY. This was a major landmark for settlers on their way to the Northwest. Common wisdom was that they had to be at this point by July 4 to be sure they were across the western mountains before the snows came.
53247257778_84b0cdb88c_z.jpg2023-0923 - Wy by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Hwy 26 approaching Dubois, WY.
53247456460_4118024a82_z.jpg2023-0923 - Wyoming by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Sun

I drove the 50 miles to Grand Teton National Park. I spent the first part of the day hiking around a couple of lakes.
First view of the Tetons.
53246085182_20b3eb8ddb_z.jpg2023-0924 - WY (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Toward Jenny Lake.
53247765575_f97bf852c9_z.jpg2023-0924 - toward Jenny Lake by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

String Lake.
53247318429_34d6921592_z.jpg2023-0925 - WY (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Leigh Lake.
53246958321_76d8f67a46_z.jpg2023-0925 - WY (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Mon

After spending the night back in Dubois, I went back to the Tetons Monday morning for some more hiking & sightseeing, before moving on.
Oxbow Bend, one of the most picturesque spots in the park.
53247318699_a67e895bdb_z.jpg2023-0924 - WY (5) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Jenny Lake.
53247318644_90b5d26eb6_z.jpg2023-0924 - WY (6) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

I exited the park to the south, took the obligatory antler picture in Jackson Square, then headed west into Idaho. The east side is forests, hills, and frankly looks a lot like the Smokies to me; the west is plains & farmland. I spent the night in Pocatello.

Tue

I headed west on I-84. At my daughter's suggestion, I stopped near Twin Falls to visit Shoshone Falls Park. It's actually several smaller falls in a canyon area on the Snake River. The lady at the park gate told me the falls were at low flow; still, they were nice.
53247456015_a6165e9c23_z.jpg2023-0926 - Wy-Id (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

53246084567_3bc8d5f769_z.jpg2023-0926 - Wy-Id (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Snake River.
53246957936_d343a234c5_z.jpg2023-0926 - Wy-Id (3) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Crossing into Oregon, I spent the night in the town of John Day. Despite the craziness you see in the news in Portland, the people in the interior are extremely conservative. Lots of flags, lots of patriotism displayed.

I took this picture just before I arrived in John Day. I can imagine settlers arriving, seeing these rich pasture lands with the mountains in the background, and thinking "Jackpot! This is the farmland we came looking for."
53246957941_2bc7c60f06_z.jpg2023-0926 - Wy-Id (4) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Wed

I headed across Oregon on secondary roads & scenic byways - no 4-lanes today. The roads looked like this...
53246957381_7085b9d1d5_z.jpg2023-0926p - Wy-Id (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

And this.

53246957721_2cd04cd5f5_z.jpg2023-0927 - Id-Or (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

I stopped in Bend, OR to visit the Breedlove factory. I spent an hour playing with their toys. Sadly. they didn't have any of their high-end stuff in the room on this day. I still had fun.
53247317364_218047e7b1_z.jpg2023-0927p - OR (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Bend is also the home of the world's last Blockbuster video. But I didn't bring my VCR with me, so I didn't stop to rent a videotape.
53247456910_20f919b2c6_z.jpg2023-0927p - OR (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

My stop for the evening was Depoe Bay, OR. Nice little town. The bay is beautiful, but impossibly rugged and rough. I can't imagine anybody would swim here, nor did I see any boats in the bay.

53246084177_d50548ba12_z.jpg2023-0927 - Id-Or (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

53246958966_b1a68ba44e_z.jpg2023-0927p - OR (4) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Thu
Today, the main event began. I started working my way down the Oregon and California coastlines. After seeing the Oregon woods and then the coast, I do believe - with the exception of Bavaria and Austria - it's the most beautiful place I've been.
53247317294_749fb29038_z.jpg2023-0928 - Or-Ca (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

53246083772_ccb0c602e7_z.jpg2023-0928 - Or-Ca (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

53246083417_f33edb4eea_z.jpg2023-0928 - Or-Ca (3) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Crossing into northern California, I encountered my first redwood trees.
53247317259_06f45000c2_z.jpg2023-0928 - Or-Ca (4) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

I spent the night in Eureka, CA. I took this evening picture at their waterfront.
53246083262_a784b3011d_z.jpg2023-0928 - Or-Ca (5) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Fri

My friend & riding buddy, Mark, had told me about California's "Lost Coast" I decided it was worth a side trip. You don't just end up there; it's so remote you have to look for it. In fact, your GPS will try to take you anywhere else. At the town of Ferndale, I turned off onto a tiny road that wound up over some low mountains. The forest was thick & the trees formed a canopy. The road was narrow & rough. The weather was lousy - drizzle, fog, cold. Still, I enjoyed the drive. There are are a handful of farms & ranches up there; don't ask me how they truck their cattle in & out on that road.
53246083292_ff4845134c_z.jpg2023-0929 - Ca (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Fifteen miles and an hour later, I reached the Lost Coast. And it was. No tshirt shops, no cafes, no nothing. Just barren coastline, and a couple of folks remote-camping. It was cold, windy, foggy, and the sea was rugged. It was beautiful.
53246956721_6b618ec9df_z.jpg2023-0929 - Ca (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

It took 2 hours to work my back through the hills, back to the main road, where I passed through Humboldt Redwoods State Park.
53247255443_bfe069a244_z.jpg2023-0929 - Ca (3) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

53246956641_3b44547fb4_z.jpg2023-0929 - Ca (4) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Eventually, I connected with California Hwy 1, the Pacific Coast Highway.
53246956326_240fb0cd47_z.jpg2023-0929 - Ca (7) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

I spent the night in the coastal town of Ft Bragg. First Baptist Church is a landmark. Built in 1887, it was damaged by the great earthquake of 1906, rebuilt when its bell tower collapsed in 1926, and weathered a fire in 1933. This church is a survivor!
53247454060_4bcfdb746f_z.jpg2023-0930 - Ca (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Sat

Leaving Fort Bragg, I visited two lighthouses. Point Cabrillo Lighthouse...
53247454035_103f851ec2_z.jpg2023-0930 - Ca (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

And Point Arena Lighthouse.
53247316024_93988d502e_z.jpg2023-0930 - Ca (4) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

There were more coastal vistas than I could count.
53247254643_d29a97e5f5_z.jpg2023-0930 - Ca (5) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

53247254698_702d60f307_z.jpg2023-0930 - Ca (3) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

This was at or near Muir Beach.
53247453515_3550090f40_z.jpg2023-0930 - Ca (7) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

At one pullout, this guy approached within 20 feet of me. I clapped my hands to chase him away. So what did he do? He walked out & stood in the middle of the road, and brought traffic to a halt. I don't think I've ever seen a coyote act this way. Anyhow, I walked toward him & shooed him off the road so the cars could get on with their day.
53247457170_ba2ffcaf82_z.jpg2023-0930 - Ca (6) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

That afternoon, I reached the home of my friends, Mark & Gail, in Pleasant Hills, a few miles inland from San Francisco. Mark & I went to high school together in Munich years ago, and have been occasional riding buddies over the last decade.

Sun

Mark & I went for a long bicycle ride, my first time on an ebike. I think I could get used to one of those; I could use the boost to get up and down the Colorado hills where I live.
No pictures today.

Mon

Mark & Gail took me on a tour of Napa Valley. Me, I don't know good wine from Welch's grape juice. Gail is a a wine expert. Not a wine snob, a true wine expert. We spent a pleasant morning on the terrace of the Domaine Carneros Winery. That's me in front of the winery.
53246081757_78955e9fbb_z.jpg2023-1002 - Ca (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Mark & Gail.
53247315209_0ce9516073_z.jpg2023-1002p -CA by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

The view from the terrace.
53246082087_8489bd8bbc_z.jpg2023-1002 - Ca (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Tue

Mark took me on a tour of the Golden Gate Bridge, and the surrounding hills. I probably took over 100 pictures; I'll only bore you with a few.
53246081637_37317edaaf_z.jpg2023-1003 - Ca (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

We walked out onto the bridge, & I snapped this view.
53247315274_1b031e2d9b_z.jpg2023-1003 - Ca (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

I also spotted this seal enjoying a swim in the bay.
53246955126_46a0c8dc70_z.jpg2023-1003 - Ca (3) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

53246955106_e7242686cc_z.jpg2023-1003 - Ca (4) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

53246081262_3e6a0304dd_z.jpg2023-1003 - Ca (5) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

We walked up Hawk Hill. It gets its name because the hawks use the updrafts above the hill to gain altitude before flying toward the distant mountains. At one point, we saw about 40 flying in a circle. Sadly, I missed that picture.
53247314474_42f30f763e_z.jpg2023-1003 - Ca (6) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

And, of course, I had to pose for a vanity picture.
53246080957_64264d43e7_z.jpg2023-1003 - Ca (7) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Wed

And too soon, it was time to start working my way home. I left Pleasant Hill, sad to say goodbye to Mark & Gail, but supremely happy to say goodbye to $6 gas. At Sacramento, I left I-80 and followed Hwy 50 around Lake Tahoe and over the Sierra Nevada mountains. In this picture, you can see Lake Tahoe in the distance.
53246080492_7a4cfb1011_z.jpg2023-1004 - Ca-Nv (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

In Nevada, I passed through Fallon. East of Fallon, the land is barren and flat. If the terrain looks familiar, think "Top Gun." Fallon is where the real Top Gun school is located.
53247451795_6db20ae9bf_z.jpg2023-1004 - NV by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

Highway 50 is called the "loneliest road in America," and it's pretty empty. But it's actually a very pleasant drive. Two years ago, I crossed it on the VStrom and enjoyed it thoroughly. The temperatures are mild, it's surprisingly green, and you'll cross several mountain ranges. I've found it to be quite peaceful and serene.
53247452725_788248c368_z.jpg2023-1004 - Ca-Nv (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

I've been told in the past there's no gas for 250 miles. Actually, the longest stretch is from Fallon to Austin, about 100 miles, so don't don't worry about tackling it on a bike.

I stopped in Ely NV for the night.

Thu

Before leaving Nevada, I made a side trip to Great Basin National Park - 15 minutes off the highway and well worth it. There was only one weather beaten sign marking its presence; even my GPS didn't know it was there. The park is free, possibly because it has so few visitors it isn't worth manning a pay gate.

I took an hour & a half to work my way up the scenic drive, from 7,000 to 10,000 feet. The upper road was lined with trees that were beginning to turn.
53247452805_d6b196339e_z.jpg2023-1005 - NV (1) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

53247252913_8f8d7c54ce_z.jpg2023-1005 - NV (3) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

The main attraction is Wheeler Peak.
53247313924_2d9960d2d4_z.jpg2023-1005 - NV (2) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

I crossed into Utah & picked up the interstate. I-70 has some strikingly beautiful rockscapes.
53247252678_126ec101bf_z.jpg2023-1005 - NV (4) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

53246080197_4310effef6_z.jpg2023-1005 - NV (5) by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

I thought about making a run for home. But I stuck to my plan and spent the night in Parachute, CO.

Fri

My last day was a short one, only about 3 1/2 hours to cross Colorado & get home. Many of you have ridden or driven I-70. It's a fantastic highway, and every inch of it is a photograph waiting to be taken. Although surprisingly, there are very few pull-offs. I didn't stop, but I ran my dash cam. I extracted this picture of Glenwood Canyon from video. It's not only a phenomenally beautiful canyon, but the interstate is a masterpiece of engineering. They had to squeeze the eastbound & westbound lanes together, sometimes stacking them to get them through the narrow space.
53247313224_2c5692798a_z.jpg2023-1006 - Glenwood Canyon by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

And then I was home. Fourteen days, 3,700 miles, and I don't even want to know how much gas. Good to be back in Centennial. Somebody was waiting impatiently. Alfie missed me; the feeling was mutual.
53247554098_010528df85_z.jpg2023-0903 - Alfie by Tim Shelfer, on Flickr

If you made it to the end, thanks for your patience.
 
Amazing trip! Glad you were able to enjoy so many beautiful areas around the country.
 
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