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Requesting tips on using an ultrasonic cleaner

RollingJ

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I've been doing a lot more work on bikes over the last few months, and it looks like that trend is going to continue.

I've always cleaned carbs and brake calipers the old fashioned way; with lots of brake cleaner and scrubbing.

However, since every bike that comes into my bay seems to need carb and brake rebuilds, I just purchased an ultrasonic cleaner.


I would really like some input as to 'best practices' and 'avoid at all costs'.
 
I’ve got the exact cleaner, only. 6 liter. Fill the bin with plain water. Whatever you are cleaning, put it in a ziplock bag with whatever you cleaning solution you are using. That way, your bin is not contaminated and you don’t need to fool with cleaning it out
 
I always used purpose made carb cleaner dip , metal parts only but they look like new after a few hours in it and rinse with water . Haven’t needed any in 25 years so not sure they still sell it . I did rebuild a quad jet a couple years back and soaked it in varsol over night , looked like new in the morning , not bad for a 83 model truck .
 
Wow, the cost of Ultrasonic cleaners has really come down. The last time I priced one of that size, it was over a Grand
 
I now use Dawn and water exclusively in mine, easy clean up for stuff that won't fit in baggies or jars. Cleaned a pistol and 2 or 3 carbs so far and she works great. I have that exact 10L cleaner. That one heats up nicely as well. Might consider some tongs to get the hot stuff out, I am a quick in and out with gloves, but it is an iffy method.
 
I’ve got the exact cleaner, only. 6 liter. Fill the bin with plain water. Whatever you are cleaning, put it in a ziplock bag with whatever you cleaning solution you are using. That way, your bin is not contaminated and you don’t need to fool with cleaning it out
I do similar, but I use a cheap plastic tub inside mine. My favorite cleaner is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Airc...s=simple+green+aircraft&qid=1681736665&sr=8-2

71KmxPT6NAL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


I use a pretty dilute solution, like 1:6. I don't think higher concentrations really work any better, a little goes a fairly long way, especially when you don't fill your whole tank with it. It is supposed to be non-corrosive, but I still alternate ultrasonic cleanings with rinsing and blowing out with compressed air. Works great on everything from carbs, to grimey fastners to covers and footpegs.

The ultrasonic is no substitute for a firm mechanical cleaning, but it does help quite a bit to make those cleanings less frequent or less necessary.
 
I do similar, but I use a cheap plastic tub inside mine. My favorite cleaner is this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/Extreme-Airc...s=simple+green+aircraft&qid=1681736665&sr=8-2

View attachment 346536

I use a pretty dilute solution, like 1:6. I don't think higher concentrations really work any better, a little goes a fairly long way, especially when you don't fill your whole tank with it. It is supposed to be non-corrosive, but I still alternate ultrasonic cleanings with rinsing and blowing out with compressed air. Works great on everything from carbs, to grimey fastners to covers and footpegs.

The ultrasonic is no substitute for a firm mechanical cleaning, but it does help quite a bit to make those cleanings less frequent or less necessary.

Be careful because it’s VERY easy to cause corrosion with that cleaner even when diluted (speaking from experience). The thing that worked best for me with ultrasonic carb cleaning was filling it with hot water, putting the carbs in a glass jar full of gas floating in there and running it for 20-30 mins.
 
Never clean an aluminum carb body & then follow it with a parkerised rem 870p without changing the cleaning solution.

I guess the prison system still has a pink(ish) 870 on a shelf somewhere. (Couldn't put it back in service in case someone mistakes it for a non firing training gun.)

And yes, I was ribbed pretty bad about it.

Lesson learned!
 
How long do you all typically leave your parts in the cleaner to get them shiny and new?

Jasen, I just did a lawn mower carb in Dawn and water, put it all in baggies, heated it up to around 140°F and I ran it about 20 minutes. Put it back in for 15 minutes and it was all cleaned up. I pretty much just ran it and kept checking the main jet, when it was clean the rest was clean. The main jet isn't shiny, but it is clean, the carb body cleaned up nicely. On the TW200 carb, since it was basically clean, I ran it 10 min and pulled it out. What I love most about the ultrasonic cleaning is that it does no harm to rubber/plastic parts. It did an amazing job on my 5903. It was pretty filthy and grimy with powder residue and left over grease residue. I gave it 30 minutes at 160°F-180°F and she cleaned up nicely. After cleaning, there will be some residue on the parts if they are particularly nasty, most of that will rinse/wipe off. After I take them out of the cleaner, I dunk them in water, then blow them with compressed air. Wonderful results, not a miracle cure, but pretty close. That lawn mower carb worked like new and the one I did on the Troybilt Horse Tiller is the business as well. Next time I clean something I will do a better job of posting up about it. I promise you that you will find lots of uses for a cleaner. When doing firearms, disassembling is the best method so you can ensure you get all the water out, that allowed me to get to purchase a spring kit from Wolff Springs because springs. Maybe we can talke Garmin and Ultrasonic cleaners soon. But, remember, a little one isn't as good. I had the little Harbor Freight one, and a DR-Z carb would have to be flipped to clean both sides, the new 10L cleaner not only has knobs (Boomer favored type of control, with a satisfying mechanical bell at the finish vice beeping) but the heater is pretty impressive. Like I always say, good tools are worth the money.
 
The carbs were cleaned the other day. It was a bank of 4 carbs and the o-rings on the t-fittings were hard and leaking, so I had to spilt the bank anyway. I had new gasket kits for all 4. I stripped them as far could without removing the butterflies; float needle, main, emulsion tube, pilot, choke, pilot screw, and slide. I kept the left bank together as I worked on the right bank, and cleaned the carbs one at a time.

I ended up using about a cup of Pinesol after I filled the cleaner 2/3 full with tap water I pre-heated on the stove to where it was starting to steam. The heater only runs while the shaking is going on and takes a long time to heat up, and I didn't want to wait.

Each carb, laid on it's side, was covered, barely. The main and pilot were new so I didnt clean them, but the rest of the small bits went in the water in the little metal tea strainer that came with the kit.

I ran each carb and bowl though the machine for about 30 minutes, flipping halfway through. The small bits were clean at 15 minutes. When the parts came out I rinsed them with fresh water from the hose and dried them with compressed air, paying extra attention to blowing out the orifices and fuel channels. There was a little fuel staining in the barrels by the butterflies, but it wiped out easily.

In all, I was very impressed with the job the cleaner did, and I wish I would have bought one years ago.
 
The cleaning portion of this is probably worth a read for some tricks and things to avoid.

 
Yea, I've got a cheap one. Never impressed with the results, but I also didn't leave my stuff in as long as you were. So it's either cheap claner, or not enough time. Or both. I'll try again with more time and see what happens.
 
Yea, I've got a cheap one. Never impressed with the results, but I also didn't leave my stuff in as long as you were. So it's either cheap claner, or not enough time. Or both. I'll try again with more time and see what happens.

I recently replaced my rusted out Lyman with the cheapest Harbor Freight one available. The HF one is doing a great job but the controls leave a lot to be desired. Next time I’ll buy their bigger one I think.

Every bath I do is about 30 minutes long fwiw.
 
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