I couldn't get the LAST screw out and had to drill it which made the hole bigger and shaped odd. Is this anything to worry about? Will it have any effect? Should I replace the shaft?
THANKS Paul
THANKS Paul
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Stage 2/butterfly concern.
- Thread starter PAULIBIKER
- Start date
Vec
0
“Brakes are overrated”
Do what I did. I removed the STVA, the STV rod and the STP sensor. I used a Healtech STV eliminator which plugs into the bikes harness. Removing the rod gave me better throttle response and modulation which could be a result from less turbulence. When the rod is left in, the air has to go around the rod which twists and has a slot where the blades were and holes where the screws were which creates turbulence. I removed the sensor on the end of the throttle and plugged it with a rubber plug and used a reinforced rubber hose between the throttle body where the STVA was. Take your time and remove the whole throttle body from the bike. Much easier to take apart and get the rod out.
www.healtech-electronics.com
STV Eliminator (STVE) - HealTech Electronics Ltd.
STV Eliminator (STVE) - Eliminate the FI light coming on when removing the secondary throttle valve / disconnecting the actuator motor from your motorcycle. Just plug it in and you're all set!
www.healtech-electronics.com
BTW, putting heat on the screws with a mini butane torch breaks the thread lock and allows the screws to be removed easily. Most that try without heat strip the screws and have to drill them out.
That worked on 7 of them.....
Now it is a perfect reason to get rid of the STVA, the rod and the STP sensor. All not needed after installing the Healtech STVE. Get rid of the turbulence and the problematic STVA.
Dale Walker says it’s a non issue. He dyno’d with and w/o the shaft and saw no difference. Not sure what to do?
Dale told me the same when I asked him last year. He might be basing his decision on the extra 2 hours of effort for removing and separating the throttle body to get the rod out and the extra cost of the Healtech STVE ($90) weighed against no measurable peak hp difference. It may not necessarily be a peak hp difference but to me a throttle response and modulation difference. It may be wishful thinking on my part. I wouldn’t ride, keep or take a chance with a chewed / drilled rod in the throttle body. Just takes a couple of hours and $90 for the HealTech STVE. To each their own thou. If it doesn’t bother you then no worries. You can always purchase another throttle body and try again without stripping the screws.
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Did you ride it before and after shaft removal?
My throttle bodies are already off, how hard is it to remove?
If you were able to disconnect the throttle cables then you are more than capable of taking the rod out. Just take you time to look and view at the items that need to be taken apart to separate. If I remember correctly, there are 2 screws holding the STVA that need to be removed, 2 hex bolts that separate the throttle bodies, 2 small screws that allow a c-clip to slide out for the plastic bib to pull out from the bottom that the hose is attached to. Remove small STP sensor on end which allows the rod to slide out after removing the small pin from the rod center which is accessible when separating the STVA from the throttle body. While I had the throttle body apart, I removed the TPS, the automatic idle plunger, fuel injectors and wiring harness so I can polish the throttle body inlet bores with 2000 wet sand paper. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body and then adjusted each idle screw one and a half (1.5) turns out from bottom. Bore 1 & 3 angles were exactly between 10 & 11 o’clock. Bores 2 & 4 were exactly between 1 & 2 o’clock. Their angles were perpendicular to each other. I used a business card corner edge (90 degree angle) to measure and make sure exact. i cut ~ 1” hose to go where I removed the STVA which connects between the bodies and placed a rubber plug at end where the STP sensor was. Once I got everything back together, I installed the Healtech STVE to the connector where the STVA was and to the connector where the STP sensor was. I fired her up and after 2 minutes she idled perfectly smooth at 1200 rpms. Took her for an extended ride and she ran absolutely great without throwing any fi lights. Throttle response feels more crisp and accurate while easier to modulate and predict. it may just be a placebo effect from my effort. Either way, the mod gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling and allows me to sleep better at night.
Hi guys, What was the end result of this thread? I'm the current owner of this bike and am getting a consistent FI light and the code reads as something wrong with cylinder 3.
Help!
Help!
I have no issues whatsoever after removing the secondary throttle blade, the rod and the STVA. I believe throttle response is more accurate, quicker and more predictable without the secondary blades and rod.