• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

The Adventure Begins... Tejas A La Tierra

Re: The Adventure Begins... Gaerne G Adventure Motorcycle Boots

Hey Troy:

If you had to do it all over, would you pick the Gaerne G-Adventure Boots for your trip again?

Hey Geargrinder,

Short story, for daily riding and week long trips I could probably recommend the boots. As long as you have the tolerance for slightly wet feet and the ability/time to dry out the boots between use. For an extended trip lasting weeks or months as in my case, there may be better boots.

Long story, I'm really divided on the Gaerne G Adventure boots. The boots have been great in terms of style, fit, comfort and protection. I wear them almost everyday as my walk around shoes. I've hike in them for hours. I've ridden standing up with them for hours. They have protected my legs in small accidents. They are as comfortable as hiking boots. The tread grips most surfaces great.

The only issue that I've had with the boots is that they have not been completely waterproof. I did not have much rain until about 3 months into my trip. Then it rained all day for seven straight days. At first there was penetration of water near my toe. Then after another month there was penetration through other parts. Either the liner failed or the seems became unsealed. I tried treating it with creams and sno seal and it worked somewhat for a while. After seven months I just resigned to the fact that when it would rain, my feet were going to get wet. Now after eight months the leather around the toe box has started to deteriorate and crack.

I've definitely not babied these shoes. I've used them as motorcycle adventure boots - riding, walking and trekking for extended periods of time. I depend on these boots for everyday use, utility and protection.

I approached Revzilla and Gaerne USA to see if the boots are still under warranty. Revzilla responded pretty quickly and said that they could not replace them, but would give me a discount if I wanted to purchase other boots. Gaerne USA did not respond for a while until I found their telephone number and placed an international call. They initially said that I would have to send the boots to their office in LA, then they would evaluate it, then they might have to send them to Italy. It might take a month or more for the evaluation. And I would be responsible for shipping them to LA and back. I explained to them that I use the boots daily so this solution is probably not going to work for me, plus with all the international shipping it would probably not be cost effective. I've written them a detailed description of my experience with the boots, sent them photos and asked that they evaluate the boots based on my description and photos. That is where the situation is as of Friday. I hope to hear word soon.

Some work arounds that I've developed are: I always wear medium thick wool socks. Wool socks still have insulating properties went wet and they can dry somewhat quickly. To dry the boots I take out the insole, stuff the boot with newspaper and turn it upside down. The newspaper absorbs the water. It works quicker than any other method of drying that I've tried. I think that taking special care of the boots might help, such as cleaning them, treating them with some cream and waterproof treatment. However, if the liner or seems fail, water will still penetrate.

I'm a realist. No outdoor equipment is completely waterproof, even if it uses goretex. But in my situation I believe that either something was wrong with the liner or seem sealing. I'm an optimist, I hope that I just had a bad pair of boots and that Gaerne USA will replace the boots. I'd then take care of the next pair of boots like a baby and probably would be able to highly recommend the boots.

Those are my thoughts. As soon as I hear back from Gaerne USA I plan to do a full gear review of the boots and convey much of what I've just written. Stay tuned.
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... Gaerne G Adventure Motorcycle Boots

Hey Geargrinder,

Short story, for daily riding and week long trips I could probably recommend the boots. As long as you have the tolerance for slightly wet feet and the ability/time to dry out the boots between use. For an extended trip lasting weeks or months as in my case, there may be better boots....

Gaerne should be *paying* you for that kind of detailed feedback. Give me a break Gaerne, step it up.
 
You, my friend, are much more interesting than the Dos Equis guy!

"I don't always ride my bike, but when I do, I don't stop 'till the continent ends. Ride responsible, my friends."

YOU, Troy, are da MAN!

:hail:
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... Paso Del Indios

Wow... it's been a long time since my last post. I'll try to bring y'all up to date.
Argentina+map.jpg

From Bariloche I wanted to travel to Puerto Madryn and the Valdez Peninsula. I planned to split the journey of about 620 miles (1000 km) into two segments. From the map you can see that there really was not much in between the two locations. There was one town called Esquel in the west, one town called Trelew in the east, and in-between... there was whole lot of nothing...except pampa.

Supposedly, about half way between these locations there was a town called Paso Del Indio (The Indian Pass). It was on a road map that I had, but it did not show up on google maps. Paso Del Indio would be my resting place since it was about the mid-way point. I searched online to see if there were any hotels in Paso Del Indio, but came up empty. Well... in a worse case scenario I could camp.

Gas would be another issue I had to consider. I generally can travel about 250 miles (400 km) on a full tank of gas. I was pretty certain that I could make it to Esquel and would be able to fill up. I hoped that I could then make it to Paso Del Indio, that there would be a gas station, that there would be gas and that I would be able to fill up. Then, I could make it to Trelew and would be able to fill up. From there I could make it to Puerto Madryn. A few months back, there were reports online that there were shortages of gas in the area. To be on the safe side I filled up my spare 10 liter gas tank... and said a little prayer that there would be gas in Paso Del Indio.
Argentina+-+0736.jpg

I headed down Ruta 40 to Ruta 25. It was a long and flat and straight asphalt road all the way. After a full day of riding I pulled into Paso de Los Indios.

In Paso Del Indio, I would estimate there were no more that 50 houses in the entire town. Exactly two hotels. One hotel had about 6 rooms. The second hotel had exactly 2 rooms. I stayed in the hotel with 2 rooms. The one restaurant in town wasn't open, so I went to a small tienda (store) and bought some ham and bread and made a sandwich for dinner. And, one gas station with gas! Not exactly a tourist destination. However, the people were super nice.

I bedded down for the evening.

The next day, I would continue on my way. I was not looking forward to the ride, because I anticipated that the road would be long and flat and straight and boring... and it was.

For a while... then I came across a beautiful pass...The Paso Del Indio. There were dramatic bluffs lining each side of the road, rock formations the size of skyscrapers and the road snaked between them. It reminded me of Big Bend, Texas or Sedona, Arizona. I was amazed.
See Video
Here is a short 1:30 minute video that shows some of the ride. Unfortunately, I did not have my camera mounted and ready to roll when I was passing through the really scenic areas.
Argentina+-+0755.jpg

I continued on my ride and came across these... Patagonian wild horse. I had read an article many months ago about Patagonian wild horses, but wasn't really expecting to see any. I believe that these were wild horses because they reacted to me and my bike as wild animals do... they ran away. All of the domesticated horses that I passed along the road never reacted to me...they simply stayed still. Cool!

It was just one of those days when I had to pinch myself... and be thankful for being in the moment. It was one of those days in which I was expecting the worse...but was blessed with something unexpected.
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... Puerto Piramides and Peninsula Valdez

argentina_mapa_peninsula_valdes.jpg

My intention for riding to Puerto Madryn was to visit Puerto Piramides and the Peninsula Valdez. The Peninsula Valdez is known for being a prime location to observe marine life such as sea lions, elephant seals, fur seals, southern right whales, dolphins and orcas.

All I really wanted to see was the orcas.

In March and April the orcas are known to hunt sea lions and elephant seals in an area of the Peninsula Valdez called Punta Norte. At times, they beach themselves on shore to attack their prey. Pods teach their young how to hunt in this manner. It is the only place in the world where this style of orca hunting occurs.

It was the first week of May, so it was rather late in the season to observe this behavior. It was late in the sea lion breeding season and late in the orca migration season. I still thought that it was worth the effort to ride across Argentina for the chance to see this phenomena. I was hoping that everything would come together.

I arrived in Puerto Piramides and planned to stay for a few days. It was a pretty small town made up of two cross streets. The population of Puerto Piramides is supposedly around 200 people. The population of the entire Peninsula Valdez is supposedly around 400 people.

On my first full day on the peninsula I thought that I'd take a ride around the area to familiarize myself with the roads. The roads were all ripio (gravel). The peninsula may not look so big, but it is about 1,400 square miles.

See Video
Here is a short 45 second video of riding the ripio on the Peninsula Valdez. About 30 seconds into the video I pass some sheep on the right and some guanacos on the left.
Argentina+-+0848.jpg

Along the road I came across quite a few guanacos.
Argentina+-+0809.jpg

Also, I came across this pond in which there were a few pink flamingos.
Argentina+-+0817.jpg

I reached Punta Norte after about an hour and a half of riding. It was already mid-day. Looking out over Punta Norte I caught a glimpse of the beach at low tide.
Argentina+-+0821.jpg

Carved into the coast were these channels. During the low tide the channels appeared to be like hundreds of little islands.
Argentina+-+0828.jpg

Some sea lions and seabirds were playing among the channels and looking for food. There were no signs of orcas. I had been told that they only approach the beach at high tide.
Argentina+-+0867.jpg

So I hopped on my bike and rode south along the peninsula. Not many people around.
Argentina+-+0836.jpg

I caught a glimpse of something splashing in the water. It was too far away to discern what it was. It could have been a dolphin, whale or orca. I took this photo. Later when I looked at the photo on my computer and zoomed in I could tell that the dark object in the water was the fin of an orca.
Argentina+-+0864.jpg

I continued on my way. After an hour and a half of riding I reached Punta Coleta.
Argentina+-+0861.jpg

There were elephant seals lounging on the beach. Not much else going on.
Argentina+-+0865.jpg

It was getting late in the day, so I headed back toward Puerto Piramides. It would be another hour and a half of riding. The sun was starting to set in the west. Again, I had the road all to myself.
Argentina+-+0874.jpg

I made one last stop at a cove where a fairly large colony of sea lions were sunning themselves.
Argentina+-+0876.jpg

They were just doing what sea lions do...lying around doing nothing.
Argentina+-+0891.jpg

There was this one point jutting out from the cove. When the waves crashed into the point it made a dramatic splash.
Argentina+-+0906.jpg

This sea lion decided to go for a swim.
Argentina+-+0907.jpg

It slowly approached the edge of the cliff which was about 10 feet high.
Argentina+-+0910.jpg

Then plopped into the water.
Argentina+-+0914.jpg

It made a little splash and disappeared into the sea. It wasn't fancy, but effective I suppose.
Argentina+-+0889.jpg

It was getting late, the sun was almost over the horizon, so I returned to Puerto Piramides. In total, I rode about 130 miles (210 km) of ripio. I believe that the whole day I only saw three other vehicles on the road. I definitely felt like the peninsula was an isolated area.
Argentina+-+0919.jpg

It was the off-season for tourism and much of the town shut down pretty early. There was only one restaurant open. It only had six tables, a staff of two, but made really delicious pizza.
Argentina+-+0926.jpg

For a chance to see the orcas I would need to be at Punta Norte at high tide. I checked the tide charts online and high tide was forecast to be at 9am. It took 1:30 hours to ride from Puerto Piramides to Punta Norte. So, the next day I got up at 7am and left the hotel at 7:30am to ride back to Punta Norte. It was dark when I started. Luckily it was not too cold. It was a little tricky riding on the gravel in the dark, but I got accustomed to it. After about an hour there was sunlight. I arrived at Punta Norte at almost exactly 9am... just in time for high tide. And then I waited. I was surprised at how high the tide reached up the beach.
Argentina+-+0815.jpg

Looking south, this was low tide from the day before.
Argentina+-+0924.jpg

This was high tide.
Argentina+-+0817.jpg

Looking north, this was low tide from the day before
Argentina+-+0928.jpg

This was high tide. All of the channel islands were covered with water.
Argentina+-+0948.jpg

I waited and waited, but didn't see any orcas. I got a little bored, so I starting taking pictures of some little birds.
Argentina+-+0954.jpg

There wasn't anything else to do. I had been waiting around for about two hours... it was 11am. I was afraid that it was too late in the season.
Argentina+-+0958.jpg

Then off in the horizon I saw a spout. I used my zoom lens on my camera to see what it was.
Argentina+-+1036.jpg

Orcas! They came from the south and swam north along the beach. They were approaching the beach.
Argentina+-+1048.jpg

There were three orcas... an adult and two adolescents. They were cruising amazingly close to the beach...hunting. I believe that the adult was teaching the adolescents how to hunt sea lions in the shallows. The adult would chase a sea lion, then the adolescents would mimic the behavior.
Argentina+-+1008.jpg

This adult sea lion stayed in the water and appeared to be watching the orcas pass by until her pups could get out of the water.
Argentina+-+1061.jpg

It was intense. I don't know why this sea lion stayed so close to the water. The seabirds started following the orcas. I suppose that they knew that if the orcas were feeding... they might be able to pick up some scraps.
Argentina+-+1097.jpg

And it happened. I believe the adult caught a sea lion and chewed it up.
Argentina+-+1116.jpg

The sea birds dove into the water and picked up the pieces.
See Video
They passed right by a number of sea lions. Occasionally the orcas would go under the surface, chase sea lions and thrash about. This is a short 1 minute video showing the orcas hunting for sea lions. The sea birds are following the orcas hoping to pick up the scraps. 20 seconds into the video one sea lion is seen surfacing on the beach narrowly escaping. Another sea lion was not so lucky and became prey.
Argentina+-+1156.jpg

I watched the morbid spectacle for about an hour. The orcas made four passes along the length of the beach. They went north, then south, then north, then south. Then as quickly as they appeared... they disappeared into the deep water. Wow... did I really just witness that.
Argentina+-+1162.jpg

When I returned to my bike, this little critter was hanging about.
Argentina+-+1168.jpg

It's a Patagonian armadillo. Cute fellow... in a prehistoric kind of way. We have similar, but different, armadillos in Texas.
Argentina+-+1192.jpg

I also caught a glimpse of this Patagonia grey fox.

All in all, it was a pretty memorable experience.... traveling to the peninsula, scouting the area, riding the ripio, spotting some unusual wildlife and observing the orcas hunting. I definitely felt like I was out there. One park ranger said that I would have about a 3% chance of seeing orcas hunting so late in the season. Well, a slim chance is still a chance. Glad I took it.
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... Things To See In Mar Del Plata

I traveled along the coast to Mar Del Plata.
Argentina+-+1225.jpg

The countryside reminded me of Texas.
Argentina+-+1285.jpg

The city by the sea.
Argentina+-+1253.jpg

It was both modern
Argentina+-+1276.jpg

And old

Argentina+-+1234.jpg

Old house made into a museum
Argentina+-+1235.jpg

Ship compass
Argentina+-+1237.jpg

Postcard

Argentina+-+1262.jpg


Old water tower made into a museum
Argentina+-+1267.jpg

Water tower
Argentina+-+1266.jpg

City view
Argentina+-+1291.jpg

Old hotel
Argentina+-+1292.jpg

Door knocker
Argentina+-+1294.jpg

Door latch
Argentina+-+1297.jpg

Stained glass window
Argentina+-+1306.jpg

Park merry go round
Argentina+-+1275.jpg

Park pooches
Argentina+-+1281.jpg

Food sign
Argentina+-+1308.jpg

Food
Argentina+-+1328.jpg

Theatre
Argentina+-+1356.jpg

Theatre
Argentina+-+1333.jpg

Fiat
Argentina+-+1298.jpg

Statue
Argentina+-+1368.jpg

A like mind
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... Adventure Motorcycle Review

Here is a video reviewing big adventure motorcycles. Pity that they left out the Suzuki DR650... they don't know what they are missing.
See Video
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay...Doors, Windows and ...

Uruguay+-+056.jpg

I took a little trip across the Rio de la Plata to Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay. Uruguay is a country in the southeastern part of South America. It is home to about 3.3 million people, of whom 1.8 million live in the capital Montevideo. An estimated 88% of the population are of European descent.
Uruguay+-+252.jpg

Colonia (formerly the Portuguese Colónia do Sacramento) is a city in southwestern Uruguay, by the Río de la Plata, facing Buenos Aires, Argentina. It is the oldest town in Uruguay and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It has a population of around 22,000.

It has an interesting history. Founded in 1680 by Portugal as Colónia do Sacramento, the colony was later disputed by the Spanish who settled on the opposite bank of the river at Buenos Aires. The colony was conquered by José de Garro in 1680, but returned to Portugal the next year. It was conquered again by the Spanish in March 1705 after a siege of five months, but given back in the Treaty of Utrecht. Another attack during the Spanish-Portuguese War, 1735-1737, failed.
It kept changing hands from crown to crown due to treaties such as the Treaty of Madrid in 1750 and the Treaty of San Ildefonso in 1777, until it remained with the Spanish. It then transferred to Portuguese control again, being later incorporated in Brazil after 1816, when the entire Banda Oriental (Uruguay) was seized by the government of the United Kingdom of Portugal, Brazil and the Algarves and renamed the Cisplatina province.
Now part of the independent country of Uruguay, Colonia del Sacramento has expanded to the north and east, but the original Barrio Histórico (historic quarter) retains its irregular, terrain-fitting street plan built by the Portuguese, contrasting with the wider, orthogonal calles in the newer Spanish area.
Uruguay+-+314.jpg

The town has some colonial style buildings like the municipal hall.
Uruguay+-+051.jpg

And the cathedral
Uruguay+-+053.jpg

With a rather simple interior.
Uruguay+-+014.jpg

It has a waterfront that runs along the Rio de la Plata.
Uruguay+-+017.jpg

But, what I really enjoyed about this town was walking around the old town and viewing the doors, windows and passageways... they are simply beautiful.
Uruguay+-+300.jpg

Many of the doorways were quite ornate.
Uruguay+-+117.jpg


Uruguay+-+125.jpg


Uruguay+-+164.jpg


Uruguay+-+206.jpg

And the windows, as beautiful to look at, as to look out.
Uruguay+-+212.jpg


Uruguay+-+222.jpg


Uruguay+-+032.jpg


Uruguay+-+071.jpg


And the cobblestone passageways were quite inviting.
Uruguay+-+074.jpg


Uruguay+-+084.jpg


Uruguay+-+096.jpg



Uruguay+-+173.jpg


This little corner garden hid a secret.
Uruguay+-+185.jpg

A little nook for San Francisco.

Uruguay+-+284.jpg

I walked down by the waterfront.
Uruguay+-+254.jpg

And spotted these two fishermen enjoying the afternoon.
Uruguay+-+278.jpg


Uruguay+-+279.jpg

The town seemed to have an appreciation for old cars.

Uruguay+-+309.jpg


http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fVV7JuZCD3Q/T-oKpmXr4BI/AAAAAAAAHhM/ZU6foYjQ7oI/s400/Uruguay+-+038.jpg

Uruguay+-+149.jpg


Uruguay+-+290.jpg

And a few old motorcycles as well.
Uruguay+-+068.jpg


Uruguay+-+036.jpg

Little details
Uruguay+-+090.jpg


Uruguay+-+296.jpg


Uruguay+-+303.jpg


Uruguay+-+286.jpg


Uruguay+-+245.jpg
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... Buenos Aires, Argentina...In Summary

Argentina+-+1998.jpg


For me, Buenos Aires was truly a breath of fresh air. Some travelers do not really enjoy big cities. But for me, big cities are often a chance to unwind, clean up a bit, eat good food, visit museums, check out a show and soak up some culture. Since much of my time traveling around Argentina and specifically Patagonia was spent exploring outdoor activities and small towns, I was ready for a big city. Buenos Aires did not disappoint.

A little background... Buenos Aires is the capital and largest city of Argentina, and the second-largest metropolitan area in South America, after Greater Sao Paulo. It is located on the western shore of the estuary of the Río de la Plata, on the southeastern coast of the South American continent.

People from Buenos Aires are referred to as porteños (people of the port). Buenos Aires is a top tourist destination, and is known for its European style architecture and rich cultural life, with the highest concentration of theatres in the world.

My adventure in BA started with exploration of the various neighborhoods. I visited the neighborhood of Belgrano and the Barrio Chino (Chinatown). I caught a glimpse of the street culture admiring the graffiti and checking out the market of San Telmo. A highlight was definitely visiting the neighborhood of La Boca, impersonating a local and watching a Boca Juniors football game. The nightlife scene in BA kicked off on Monday and the percussion group La Bomba attracted a lively crowd. A walking tour of the downtown area provided me a better understanding of some of the historical elements of the government of Argentina. While the museums proved to be world class. I really enjoyed the Bellas Artes and MALBA museums. The Cemetery of Recoleta had some amazingly photogenic mausoleums. I found some little treasures in the upscale neighborhood of Palermo. And strangely enough it was in the same neighborhood of Palermo where I had my first encounter with a pickpocket. I was happy to score some free tickets to a recital at the Teatro Colon, but the real treat was simply sitting in and marveling at the wonderful architecture of the space. I soaked up some of the gaucho culture at the Feria de Mataderos. And relaxed under the frescos and between the aisles in the amazing theatre turned book store El Ateneo. Like many big cities, there is nothing subtle about Buenos Aires. Everything is in your face and turned on around the clock. Nothing exemplifies this more than the Milonga dance halls and Tango.

Ahhh... a breath of fresh air... Buenos Aires!

For the full story with photos and videos click on this link.
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... Rosario

From Buenos Aires I headed north and west to Rosario
Argentina+-+2032.jpg

The countryside was green and flat. The area is considered the bread basket of Argentina and is responsible for much of the agriculture and ranching of the country.
Argentina+-+2016.jpg

Rosario is noted for this huge obelisk called the Monumento Nacional de la Bandera.
Argentina+-+2014.jpg

It depicts the struggle for independence.
Argentina+-+2021.jpg

And the city claims fame to the building in which Ernesto "Che" Guevara was born.
Argentina+-+2025.jpg

Renowned architect Alejandro Bustillo designed the apartment building at Entre Ríos 480 where, in 1928, Ernesto Guevara Lynch and Celia de la Serna resided after the birth of their son Ernesto Guevara de la Serna, popularly known as El Che.
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... Cordoba

My next stop was the town of Cordoba.
Argentina+-+2035.jpg

Córdoba is a city located near the geographical center of Argentina, in the foothills of the Sierras Chicas on the Suquía River, about 700 km (435 mi) northwest of Buenos Aires. It is the capital of Córdoba Province. Córdoba is the second-largest city in Argentina after the federal capital Buenos Aires, with about 1.3 million inhabitants. The city was founded on 6 July 1573 by Jerónimo Luis de Cabrera, who named it after Córdoba, Spain. It was one of the first Spanish colonial capitals of the region that is now Argentina (the older city was Santiago del Estero, founded in 1553). The Universidad Nacional de Córdoba is the oldest university in Argentina. It was founded in 1613 by the Jesuit Order. As the location of the first university, Córdoba has earned the nickname La Docta (The Learned one).
Argentina+-+2045.jpg

The first thing I did in Cordoba was to find something to eat. I found a cafe just off the central plaza and had a tasty meal consisting of an empanada and locro. Locro is a stew with pork, corn, beans and vegetables. It is often eaten on special occasions. This special occasion was that I was hungry.
Argentina+-+2042.jpg

The town center had a number of colonial style buildings like the municipal hall.
Argentina+-+2043.jpg

This old church turned into an information office.
Argentina+-+2047.jpg

Statues
Argentina+-+2049.jpg

The cathedral Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion.
Argentina+-+2039.jpg

It was brilliantly illuminated at night.
Argentina+-+2052.jpg

It had these amazing iron doorways with the figures of Peter and Paul.
Argentina+-+2054.jpg


Argentina+-+2062.jpg

The next day I walked around the University Nacional de Cordoba which was founded by the Jesuits.
Argentina+-+2065.jpg

I came across this statue of the founder of Cordoba, Jeronimo Luis de Cabrera.
Argentina+-+2073.jpg

There was this interesting space called the Museo de la Memoria which pays tribute to the atrocities of the Dirty War. This former detention and torture facility displayed names of the "disappeared".
Argentina+-+2072.jpg


Argentina+-+2075.jpg

There was all kinds of street art in the city
Argentina+-+2076.jpg

Around the Paseo del Buen Pastor there were these street sculptures.
Argentina+-+2079.jpg

A condor
Argentina+-+2080.jpg


Argentina+-+2082.jpg

A snake or dragon
Argentina+-+2097.jpg

A man and dog
Argentina+-+2100.jpg

A floating woman
Argentina+-+2101.jpg

A colorful dog
Argentina+-+2077.jpg

This art piece displayed photos of women whom "disappeared" during the Dirty War.
Argentina+-+2087.jpg

The Iglesia del Sagrado Corazon was an amazing church made in the neogothic style.
Argentina+-+2095.jpg

It had these incredible ornate spires
Argentina+-+2094.jpg

and carved columns.
Argentina+-+2102.jpg

And I spent a little time at the Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes Emilio Caraffa.
Argentina+-+2103.jpg


Argentina+-+2104.jpg


Argentina+-+2105.jpg


I really enjoyed Cordoba. It reminded me of my hometown of Austin, Texas. It is a university town, had some nice restaurants, friendly people and a cineclub (film club).
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... Wine and Two Wheels

Next stop... Mendoza
Argentina+-+2142.jpg


Mendoza is the wine producing region of Argentina. Many of the vineyards and wineries are located within a 40km area. One can visit the wineries by organized tour, car or two wheels. And, not necessarily two wheels on a motorcycle. It is completely possible to visit a number of wineries by bicycle...so that's what I did.
Argentina+-+2118.jpg

A fellow traveler that I met named Randy and I rented some bikes from a place called Mr. Hugo's...and off we went.
Argentina+-+2120.jpg

The first stop was the winery called Museo y Bodega La Rural.
Argentina+-+2122.jpg

They had museum with a collection of old wine making equipment like these wine sacks.
Argentina+-+2123.jpg

Wine press, the kind that you jump on top and mash grapes with your bare feet.
Argentina+-+2126.jpg

Mechanical wine press.
Argentina+-+2119.jpg

Wine fermenting barrels.
Argentina+-+2124.jpg

Old cash register.
Argentina+-+2121.jpg

And of course there was a wine tasting. This varietal was a Cabernet Sauvignon.
Argentina+-+2141.jpg

The second place we visited was a winery called Trapiche.
Argentina+-+2128.jpg

Out front they had a small organic vineyard.
Argentina+-+2140.jpg

They had a large and modern production facility, but they also had restored this old winery building.
Argentina+-+2130.jpg

The original owner had built a private railroad line to facilitate the transportation of wine. Prior to the construction of the railroad, to transport wine by horse and carriage from Mendoza to Buenos Aires would take weeks. With the railroad, they could transport more wine and the journey would only take 24 hours.
Argentina+-+2132.jpg

Inside the winery was a receiving area to weigh the grapes.
Argentina+-+2135.jpg

There was this amazing rosewood tile floor.
Argentina+-+2137.jpg

Oak barrels imported from France and the United States.
Argentina+-+2139.jpg

And of course there was a wine tasting of Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and a Malbec Dulce. At this winery we ran into some other travelers that I had met previously in the town of Bariloche. Jeff and Christie from San Diego. Clinton and Laura from Sydney. We all shared in the wine tasting.
Argentina+-+2152.jpg

The third winery was called Tempus Alba.
Argentina+-+2146.jpg

It was a fairly new winery that had only been in operation for 6 years.
Argentina+-+2150.jpg

They had some of their own vineyards, but also sourced grapes from nearby vineyards to round out their varietals
Argentina+-+2145.jpg

We took a break here to enjoy some food and drink. We bought some bottles of Malbec and Syrah.
Argentina+-+2127.jpg

As the daylight lingered we peddled our way back.

Fun on two wheels.
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... A Ride Along The Andes

From Mendoza I headed South. South? Yes, South.
Argentina+-+2165.jpg

It was winter and turning cold in Argentina. I had been on a route fleeing the cold and heading North. But, I had a friend and fellow adventure motorcyclist that I wanted to visit in the town of San Rafael. And that meant that I had to take a short detour and head South.
Argentina+-+2159.jpg

As I road South and along the western edge of Argentina to my right were the Andes Mountain range.
Argentina+-+2156.jpg

Certainly a detour and scenery worth the visit.
 
Your pictures and narration from Colonia make me feel as if I've stepped directly into a Gabriel Garcia Marquez story. I could almost smell the endless passage of time amongst the moss and leaves.
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... San Rafael... Feels Like Home

San Rafael...feels like home.
Argentina+-+2171.jpg

I traveled to San Rafael to visit a friend and fellow adventure motorcyclist named Alejandro whom I had met while traveling from Peru to Chile. Alejandro's family welcomed me with open arms. Upon my arrival I had the chance to meet his mother Rita, his girlfriend Noelia and his cousin's family. Alejandro is a chemical engineer by profession and works at a local university. Rita is a retired teacher. Noelia is an art instructor. And his cousin and wife are both physical education instructors. The kids are just kids, they like to play. The first thing they introduced me to was a nice lunch.
Argentina+-+2179.jpg

In the afternoon, Alejandro took me to a place called Valle Grande. It was a beautiful area which contained a lake and river surrounded by a mountain range.
Argentina+-+2173.jpg

Supposedly in the summer the place is swarming with tourists from all over Argentina.
Argentina+-+2175.jpg

But, luckily at this time, it was quite and peaceful and simply stunning.
Argentina+-+2187.jpg

The lake was formed by a dam.
Argentina+-+2184.jpg

It created a reservoir that was used for boating, fishing and water sports.
Argentina+-+2199.jpg

And was pretty nice to just stare at and take in it's beauty.
Argentina+-+2210.jpg

The next day Alejandro had to work. So Rita took me on a little tour of the town. The first stop was a winery call Bodega Valintin Bianchi.
Argentina+-+2200.jpg

They had a very nicely laid out display of their varietals.
Argentina+-+2201.jpg

They are probably most famous for producing sparkling wine (champagne).
Argentina+-+2209.jpg

We were taken on a tour of the facilities. I learned that the process for producing champagne is a bit different than the process for producing wine. Essentially, there is a second fermentation which may take place in the bottle, an aging on the lees, riddling, disgorging and dosage.
Argentina+-+2202.jpg

Rita had visited the winery previously. She knew about a special cellar in which the Bianchi family kept a private collection of wines and champagnes. She asked the guide if we could view cellar and as a favor the guide allowed us to view it. The cellar was dark, circular and filled wall to wall with the family's finest collection of wines.
Argentina+-+2205.jpg

This table was built on commission by the founder Valentin Bianchi. The table has six legs representing the six children of the family.
Argentina+-+2213.jpg

At the end of the tour we had the chance to taste some of the champagne. I tasted a little bit, but it was still pretty early in the morning to be drinking champagne. So instead I bought the bottle that appears on the left for later consumption.
Argentina+-+2215.jpg

Next, we walked around the town a bit and through the central park. The town converted old dying trees in to pieces of art by carving statues such as this one.
Argentina+-+2217.jpg

We passed by this old bank which has been converted into a municipal building.
Argentina+-+2218.jpg

And, we visited the university at which Alejandro works.
Argentina+-+2219.jpg

Later, Alejandro and I visited this sportsman's club for marksmanship. This club is a recreational club, but also a training center for olympic style marksmanship. This is a friend of Alejandro named Adrian.
Argentina+-+2220.jpg

This style of marksmanship requires the use of special air rifles, suits, hats, glasses, gloves and shoes.
Argentina+-+2221.jpg

The target is 10 meters away and contains concentric circles. The largest circle is only about 2 inches wide. Points range from 1 to 10.
Argentina+-+2222.jpg

It turns out that when Alejandro was young he was one of the top marksmen in San Rafael and in Argentina. He would compete in olympic style events and according to his friends he won quite a few trophies.
Argentina+-+2224.jpg

Adrian let me take a shot. The action on these rifles is incredible. To fire the rifle only a gentle touch is needed, similar to the feeling of a feather touching your skin.
Argentina+-+2225.jpg

My first shot hit the outer ring... 1 point. After I realized how delicate the trigger mechanism was, I took another shot. My second shot hit a 9. Not bad for a first attempt with an olympic rifle. Guns and shooting... it is in my blood as a native Texan.
100_5514.jpg

Over a few days Alejandro and his family showed me incredible hospitality. They provided me a bed on which to rest, filled me with food, took me to a winery, introduced me to olympic marksmanship, took me to a friend's birthday party and showed me the best of San Rafael. During an excellent asado (BBQ) meal, I had the chance to meet Rita's brother and sister. Her brother gave me some great advice on places to visit in northern Argentina. Alejandro augmented this info with some route suggestions and a map. Alejandro also helped me wash and complete some maintenance on my motorcycle. I do not know if I will ever have the chance to truly return the kindness that I was shown. I hope that I do.
100_5516.jpg

I must say that I was happy to visit Alejandro and his family, but I was sad to leave. They truly made me feel at home. Alas, the weather was starting to turn cold. I needed to head north before the cold, rain and snow set in.

I road off into the cold, but with a warm heart.
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... San Rafael... Feels Like Home

I do not know if I will ever have the chance to truly return the kindness that I was shown. I hope that I do.

Perhaps you can talk him into coming to Texas. :clap: One adventurer should be able to convince another adventurer that he need to "take a trip".
:thumb: He would be more than welcome with your TWT friends. :sun:
Sam
 
Re: The Adventure Begins... San Rafael... Feels Like Home

Perhaps you can talk him into coming to Texas. :clap: One adventurer should be able to convince another adventurer that he need to "take a trip".
:thumb: He would be more than welcome with your TWT friends. :sun:
Sam

I would love it. I'm certainly going to think about opening up my house to other adventure motorcyclists upon my return.

I sure miss riding with you guys. Your sage riding and mechanical tips have certainly come in handy.
 
Troy,

Very impressive! I am not on the Board very often , but I was looking around and found your adventure. I found it today and have read it thru to this point and checked several of the videos without stopping.
I am very impressed and more than a little bit envious. Thanks for posting and sharing.
Keep it coming.

Dale
 
Back
Top