Now if there is one thing I have learned in my few years of riding dual sports, it is that you can't ever really trust someone's opinion of whether they ride fast or slow, or whether a trail is hard or easy, unless you first know a little bit about their riding background. I have found that there are three kinds of riders. There are those that just started, classic beginners that think a smooth gravel/dirt road is tough. There are riders that may have started later in life, but have been riding for a few years and have gained some experience. Then there are those people that started riding when they were really young, maybe 4-5 years old, and they likely raced for a few years along the way. A few might have taken a break to attend college, raise kids, and start a career and are just getting back into riding, and some may have been constant riders all their life. This latter group's idea of a "slow" ride is usually well above what I would consider a fast ride. I have no doubt that they ride slower than they used to ride, but they developed reflexes and processing skills while young that I think people getting a later start never quite develop. I fall into that middle group, having started dirt riding in my late 30's and now having a few years of experience.
So while visiting with Phil yesterday during our break from the Rim Trail, I asked about his riding background. "Oh.... I raced MX for a bunch of years..." "Yeah I ride the Rim Trail by myself fairly often..." Okay, that gave me a pretty good idea of what I am in for on the ride today, a fast slow ride
As I am getting up and getting ready for today's ride, I get a text from James. It seems he has forgotten his wedding ring. He wants me to go look in his hotel room to see if I can find it. I head down there, look through all the drawers in the dresser, around the floor and in the bathroom, nothing. The bed spread is all wadded up on the bed, so I lift it and flip it out, then notice the gleaming reflection of gold. It was wadded up in the bed spread. I send him a text letting him know I found it and that we'll drop it off as we swing back through Waco on the way home next Saturday. I know some folks might say shame on him for taking it off to begin with. But let me tell you, when you have a death grip on your bars, the ring can do some serious pinching at the base of the finger and on the palm. I've had to take mine off as well when riding the Rim Trail.
I head down to meet Roger, top off the oil in the bike, make sure I have all my tools transferred from the KTM, and then we head off to meet Phil. The sun is still behind the Eastern ridge of the mountains and we are riding in the shade. The morning air is crisp and cool. I remind myself that it will warm up soon enough and this sure beats being back in the Texas heat! After a nice ride down the Sunspot Highway, we arrive at Phil's place to find him almost ready to leave. He'll be riding his KTM 990 Super Enduro and has agreed to lead the way today. I've no idea what he has in mind, but I am sure it will be fun!
Phil takes point, I slot into the middle, and Roger brings up the rear as he likes to do when he is not leading. We head North up the Sunspot Highway a short distance to Karr Canyon Road and head West into the woods. This is a fairly well maintained gravel road, with some rough spots and coarse gravel chunks. As might be expected, Phil sets off at a pretty brisk pace. I am still a little stiff and my internal processors aren't fully awake yet, so I am not relaxed enough to really match his pace comfortably. After I get a few miles under the tires, I'll begin easing into a rhythm and his pace will be nice.
After a few minutes of riding, I notice that I don't see Roger behind me. He likes hanging back normally, but I can usually catch a glimpse of his headlight most of the time. We go a little further, and then the surface of the road changes to a broken pavement with loose gravel scattered over it. We stop and wait. After a minute or so we decide to turn around and head back, just in case... We round a few corners and find Roger riding along. I ask if everything is okay and he tells me he just doesn't really have a feel for the big KTM on the DS tires yet. The bike is still relatively new to him and it is not on knobbies, but rather is wearing the more street oriented big block dual sport tires. All's well, so we continue along Karr Canyon.
The road started out around 9200 feet elevation and over the course of about 6-1/2 to 7 miles, it drops down to about 6500 feet, intersecting the town of High Rolls on US 82 West of Cloudcroft. The last few miles of the road are a grey pavement with a fine grey gravel, almost sand. It looks like leftover excess from the "paving". The road is twisty and fun, but it is hard to tell where that gravel is loose and traction might be questionable. I try to keep to the tracks of the cars as these are usually fairly clean. I also resist the urge to "play" on this road. We regather at US 82 and head West a short distance to the start of West Side Rd., also shown as CR 90 on many maps.
90 is a road I've done a few times before. It runs down the West side of the mountains, eventually rejoining the Sunspot Highway North of Timberon. It is dirt/gravel the whole way and has some fantastic scenery. The only real issue with this road is ruts. I remember this from the last trip as well. For much of the Northern half of the road, the ground is a reddish dirt and rocks. Apparently it gets REAL soft when it rains. For most of this section, there are two good sets of ruts running right down the middle of the road. Usually, the ground is good to the outside of them and in between them. They can get deep in places so crossing them can be dicey if I don't pay attention to what I am doing, especially on the heavy 1200 GS.
Phil takes off, again at a nice brisk pace. I am finally starting to loosen up and relax. It takes me little time to find my rhythm. A nice thing about the GS is that its big smooth torque lets me just stick it in third gear and forget about shifting. It will pull through any slow tight corners and accelerate plenty fast down any straight sections between the corners. Engine braking is great as well. This makes it real easy to just settle into a nice smooth rhythm of rolling into the corners and accelerating out of them. I keep about a hundred yards or so behind Phil, missing what little dust comes up off the road and leaving me room to play. I also keep an eye out for Roger, who seems to also be finding his comfortable place on the 990.
The road is quite twisty, following the sides of the ridge line. We run a nice pace for a pretty good while before finally stopping to take a short break. The sun is getting on up into the sky and it is getting warmer now. While the ruts are still here, they really haven't been as bad as they were on my previous trip. For the most part I don't even pay much attention to them. I've mostly been running down the center of the road between them, cutting inside for the blind corners to avoid potential oncoming traffic (of which we've seen none), and then cut back to the center as I exit the corners. The bike is handling great! I eventually find Phil waiting for us.
Phil
One of the straighter sections, you can see the reddish dirt and the rocks
Roger on the 990
Up this trail a few miles is the West end of Alamo Rd,. and then a short run back to Phil's house on the East of Alamo Rd. Maybe on the next trip...
Ruts are not bad here
Looks like Roger and his jacket are having some kind of disagreement
This road has wide open sections and nice covered sections as well
A few miles South of the Alamo trail, there is an intersection where NF 90-A heads due West out onto the end of a long ridge. We went this way on our last trip. It is a dead end, but it is worth the time. It brought us out on a real high point, where there are a mess load of antennas and other fancy electronic stuff. The view was awesome, clear and unobstructed over the whole desert valley below. So if you are out here and have an extra 30 minutes or so, check it out. There are two other similar roads, NF 90-E and B further South again. I've not explored them yet, but they are on the list. The stretch of West Side road that runs between these two intersections is a real hoot, tons of twisty dirty goodness!!
Once South of NF-90E and B, the road opens up some and the speed picks up a bit. Some of the cattle guards make great launching ramps! It takes me back to my years spent as a kid growing up in Copperas Cove, near Fort Hood in central Texas. We jumped our bicycles over and off anything we could find. The more air the better. Maybe that had something to do with Mom never agreeing to let us having anything with a motor that did not cut grass...
All those wasted years I missed out on riding until I was in my 30's...
The last stretch of the West Side Rd., is basically a steep winding climb, due East, up to the top of the ridge. It starts out around 7000 feet and peaks around 8200 feet. The road starts out still as the reddish dirt/rock, but soon gives way to a white gravel, averaging maybe 1/4-1/2" in diameter. This makes some of the corners "exciting" if I get into them with a bit too much speed. The momentum of the big GS makes them act like little ball bearings, willing to carry me away to new heights of puckerness...
The high point is right where the road goes out of the right side of the image, also the point where the Rim Trail intersects the road.
Here you can see the white part of the road
Corners like that one on the left of the image are blind and pretty tight, not a place I want to meet a truck/car coming the other way...
The big GS likes to break the back end loose and slide around a lot. My TKC 80s aren't new. They have about 500 miles on them from riding in North Carolina back in May. That ride took about half the height of the knobbies off the rear tire...
The front is still good and is holding well, so I just lean the bike into the corners and stay on the gas, letting the rear do its thing. I am cautious though as my 1150 GS was doing this one time and the back end decided to lead the way as I exited a corner on gravel much like this. That... uhhh... HURT!
We soon reach the top and stop for a break and to enjoy the view.
The Rim Trail drops down just out of the picture behind Roger.
We run the last bit of West Side Rd., down to the Sunpot Highway. At the highway, we turn South and make the sweet run on into Timberon. Have I mentioned that the pavement on this highway is just about perfect...? We reach the deli in town where we stopped on Sunday. It's closed. Phil takes us around the airport where we went Sunday on our attempt to find a way out the Northeast corner of town. This road takes us out the Southeast corner of town and becomes CR-E012, a nice wide gravel road that follows the Sacramento River valley.
Phil picks up the pace now. I hang back because the dust is thicker and not moving off real fast. I try to hang just on the end of his dust cloud and run a quick and fun pace. Once again, the big torque of the GS makes shifting almost unnecessary. I slot into fifth gear, occasionally dropping into fourth or jumping up into sixth. The first three or four miles are pretty fast sections, but then the river makes a big looping detour to the North before continuing on South. Here things slow down a little. I really like the views out here. It is trending more toward to dry desert and the mountain trees are giving way to the shorter cedars.
In the middle of the loop, there is a road running off to the North. It shows as CR-E013 on my maps. Just a short ways up, there is another intersection and my map shows NF-9602 continuing North and CR-E013 turning East. NF-9602 runs up and becomes NF-9642d. This runs further North and intersects Pinon Draw Rd., which is where we were trying to get when we were heading out the Northeast corner of Timberon. This goes on the list of roads to explore the next time I am out here. My topo maps do not show these two NF roads connecting, but some of the maps do. It would be nice to know for sure and the topo map makes it look like it would be a fun ride!
A mile or two past the big loop, I find Phil stopped in the shade of a tree at another intersection. Here we part ways with the river and turn to the Northeast on CR-E011, which also shows as Surveyor's Canyon Rd., on some maps.
The intersection
Surveyor's Canyon is a fun stretch of road. It climbs up out of the river valley from about 6000 feet to 6500 feet. It starts out nice and twisty as it runs up the canyon, then peaks over a broad ridge and start sloping down to the East toward the tiny town of Pinon, back to about 6000 feet. Phil must be getting hungry because I lose sight of him shortly after we stopped and I don't see him again until I catch up to him at the next intersection
He's grinning pretty good when I pull up next to him.
Here we pick up Hwy 24, which runs mostly North at this point. It gently winds its way up through some beautiful green valleys with some really nice ranches and homes. The pavement is smooth and nice. Phil settles into a nice relaxed pace and we eat up the miles, climbing back into the mountains as we go. We are MILES from anything most city dwellers would consider civilization. There is not a McDonald's, Wal-Mart or shopping mall of ANY KIND within miles of here (maybe in Alamorgordo on the other side of the mountains). The sky is clear and deep blue, stretching away forever in all directions. I can see why folks might like to live out here...
As we are heading up the highway, I am constantly looking at the GPS and making mental notes about roads in the area that look like they might be interesting and worth a second look some time. Most are on the East side of 24, an area I've not ridden yet: Chimney Lake Rd., Dog Canyon, Angel Canyon, McDonald Flats, Miller Flats, etc,... I think maybe we'll head this way Thursday when we are going to be riding the big bikes again. We reach Hwy 521, more commonly known as Agua Chiquita Rd., and turn West, arriving in Weed a mile or so later. This time we are in time for lunch!
Weed Cafe looks like what you might expect in a town of maybe a hundred and fifty people, give or take a few. The inside looks clean, but not fancy. Everything has a REAL local feel to it. By that I mean personal, like the photos on the walls are of the locals, maybe family. It also has the look of being the place where people come to hang out, meet other folks, catch up on the latest gossip, talk shop, and it generally just serves as the hub of the community. Sure enough, we get settled in and the group at the table next to us appears to be local ranchers. They talk shop and politics. It would seem they are NOT real happy with politicians right now, at the state or federal level. In fact, they don't seem real happy with EITHER party at the state or federal level. It's kind of interesting listening to them. Like a growing number of people in recent years, they are getting worried about the size, power, and spending of government at every level. Except for the people and companies that are politically connected, it seems to be making business harder.
My ham and cheese sandwich arrives and all thought of politics is lost. It has a THICK slab of ham, cheese on both sides, and the bread is buttered and toasted on both sides! Yeah... it is good!!!
The fries are great as well. Then I get my ice cream!!
Phil and Roger do the green chili cheeseburger experience. I can't pack away that much and then be expected to ride afterward...
After a great lunch we head back outside into the warm, relaxing, soothing, sleep inducing sun... I gotta get the bike moving to keep me alert!
Hunting season is upon us... The favorite dogs get to ride up top and these guys don't seem all that excited about the arrangement, hehe
Our after lunch route is heading West on Agua Chiquita Rd., which starts out nicely paved and after a few miles eventually turns to nice dirt/gravel when it begins bending to the South and starts a gradual climb up to the main North/South running ridge where the Sunspot Highway runs. The pace is quick enough to keep me sharp and the scenery nice enough to demand my attention.
Agua Chiquita Rd., turns back to the Northwest as it approaches the ridge line. Just beyond Scott Able Canyon, we turn off to the North at Woods Canyon. The road climbs up on to a narrow ridge and then runs Northwest again. This is a really fun road, only about a single lane wide. However, it has been recently graded and it appears the forest service has laid down some VERY coarse gravel, much of it 1-1/2 to 2 inches in diameter. Worst of all, it seems they dumped most of the new gravel in the corners, some of which are fairly tight and steep
At this point I am following Roger. He has slowed noticeably, which is fine by me because my front end is just plowing right through the gravel, not wanting to make the bike turn at all. When I try to steer the bike with the back end, that torque that is so lovely in other situations makes for some real fun now! The back end of the bike sliding is not so bad. When BOTH ends get to sliding, well... that can get interesting!
Still, I am having great fun, REALLY enjoying the 1200 GS as a dual sport for the first time since I bought it a few years ago. Part of that is because I never really intended to use it as a dual sport, but also because I just never really seemed to "click" with this bike like I did with my 1150 GS. This trip, and the one a few months ago to North Carolina have really changed that! The last short section of this road bends West and drops down several hundred feet in elevation. I really have to watch the GS to keep it from picking up speed heading into the corners. Trying to slow down in the chunky gravel is also a bit of an adventure... We drop out onto FR-64 (Davis Road), which is where we would have come out had we stayed on Agua Chiquita. The run up FR 64 to the main highway is fast and fun, running along a high ridge of about 9500 feet elevation. I like getting up where there are more Aspen trees. There is just something about their presence that is soothing
Somewhere in that stretch, we came through a burned out area. I can't remember exactly where it was. Phil probably knows. Here are a couple shots of it.
We reach the highway and Phil turns North. At this point I am thinking we are probably close to being done with the ride because we are so close to his place. I'm thinking a short, fun, fast, and squiggly squirt up the Sunspot Highway and we'll be at his place in no time! But he's not done yet... Maybe a few hundred yards up the road he pulls off to where there is a dirt "road" going over the side of the hill. He assures us it is not too bad... besides, if we want, there is an easy way down just around the corner that will bring us out at the same place. Over he goes... making it look "easy"... you know... like the way those guys that have been riding since they were five and have raced for years can do
I look over the edge and while I am sure it is NOT thirty feet straight down, it sure looks that way sitting on 600lbs of motorcycle...
"You wanna try that?"
Roger, "Uh... not really".
Now you know that when Roger doesn't reply with, "I'm Game", the better part of prudence might be to go another way
I've ridden with him through enough stuff to get a good idea of what he thinks is easy/hard.
"Look for the easy way?"
"I'm game..."
So there ya go. We're gonna wuss out and look for the easy way down. I run up another few hundred feet along the shoulder and there is a nice normal gravel road heading off to the East. However, a few hundred yards later we arrive at a big clearing and a dead end. Apparently we missed the short cut. As we head back down Phil comes up to find us and show us the little trail we missed that winds down to the bottom. It's a wide single track with big loose rocks, some tightish turns, and branches. After a few moments of debating whether we are ready to call it a day for the dirt and front ends washing out... well... we head down... What else could we do!?
As I am working my way down and trying to keep the GS from just taking off down the hill side, I keep hearing this, "Chunk! Chunk! Chunk!" Well, that is an interesting sound...
I manage to make the first turn, bouncing the front tire off a couple nice sized rocks that roll around when I hit them, and then aim for the next not so bad turn, where the hill starts to roll out to the bottom. I release the brakes and coast on down to where Phil is waiting. That wasn't so bad...
Roger gingerly working his way down... and I hear "chunk chunk chunk..."
The start of the trail is in the trees in the upper left corner of the image. The first turn is behind that big tree on the right. Roger is approaching the second wider turn and roll out to the bottom of the hill. I notice his back tire locking and releasing... chunk chunk chunk... OH!!! That's what that sound was!! It was my ABS cycling because I was mashing the snot out of the back brake lever in my efforts to keep the bike from accelerating down the hill
Phil is probably laughing in his helmet as he watches us nurse our bikes down the trail. He obviously doesn't have those commitment issues I was talking about earlier
And off he goes....
The road we are on now is the one I call Cathey's Creek Rd., the one we took Sunday to get to the start of the Willie White trail. This end of it is a fun narrow two track that obviously does not get much traffic. As we get close to the trail head, it gets progressively wider and better maintained.
The trail head. Where the cow is standing was all full of water Sunday morning when we rode through it - it's maybe a 25-30 foot drop from the road to the puddle
The start of the ledge section of the trail, a little over three feet wide in places
The "Big" bikes
We reach Rio Penasco Rd., and head West to the highway. From here it is indeed short and fun run up to Phil's house.
At Phil's place, we thank him for a great ride and then head on back to Cloudcroft. It is still relatively early in the evening, maybe 4:00pm or so. It seems such a waste to just go back to the hotel and call it a day. So Roger and I decide we'll make the run up NM 244 to Ruidosa and back. It's a really nice paved ride and we can easily do it in a few hours and be back in time for a nice dinner.
We get maybe 15 miles or so from town and I notice that Roger is not behind me after I get onto a long straight section where I can see way back behind me. I pull over and wait... and wait... Nothing. Well, dang. I turn around and a mile or so back I find him sitting on the side of the road.
This can't be good...
It would seem that Roger has a flat. He said he was going through a corner and suddenly the back end started feeling like it was riding on marsh mellows. It's a pretty place to break down...
But it's also kind of hot just sitting out here in the sun! I glance across the road a few hundred feet away and spot some trees and a nice grassy spot.
"Think you can get it over there in that shade?"
"I can sure try!"
That's it over behind my bike
With that Roger slowly makes his way across the road so the rear tire doesn't peel off the rim. He manages to get it through the shallow ditch and up into the shaded area. I follow behind and park next to him. The ground is a bit uneven but we manage to get the bikes parked and stable. The ground is kind of soft and we have to put something under his center stand to keep it from sinking into the ground so we can get the rear tire off the ground.
We pause this ride report to being you this picture of a really cool flower...
With his bike secure, he quickly gets the rear tire removed. We use our "heft" to break the bead loose on both sides and he sets to removing the tube. NASTY!! Apparently he had Slime in the tire. I know some folks think it is great, but I don't care for it at all. I'd rather just fix a dry clean flat than
maybe have it work and then eventually end up fixing a flat in a mess like this!!
It is an incredible mess and Roger uses up his only rag trying to clean it up so we can do something with the tire. Fortunately, he has a spare tube with him so we don't have to mess with trying to clean this one up enough to get a patch to stick to it.
Have to watch our step... piles of horse poop near the bikes
We make short work of getting the new tube in place and start to air it up. I carry a Slime air pump with me when I am on the GS. I have an adapter for it so I can plug it into the outlet on the GS. It is kind of slow, but it usually gets the job done. We hook it up and let it run, waiting for the tire bead to seat.
And we wait... and wait... and wait...
"You sure this pump can get it done?"
"Well, it has never failed me before"
And we wait... and wait...
The pump casing is getting pretty hot, as is normal. I slip a thin sliver of wood between the tire and the rim, occasionally tugging on it to see if it is getting harder to pull out each time. It is... but VERY slowly...
"Maybe we should let the air out and start over...?"
Me, "Well, it can't hurt anything, so why not?"
Meanwhile several motorcycles and countless cars, trucks and even school buses have gone by while we've been sitting here. NOT ONE even slowed down or hinted that they might be curious as to whether or not we needed help!! I can't believe that many people would be so callous. I can only surmise that we must have been radiating a serious aura of being dudes that knew what they were doing and had everything under control...
"Is it working...?"
"Hard to tell. Looks like it's just doing the same thing again..."
"Let's let it run a little longer this time."
And another car drives by...
"It HAS to be getting to be pretty high pressure in there!"
Still the tire bead refuses to seat completely on both sides of the rim
We try bouncing the tire, something I have often heard recommended but have yet to ever actually see work in person.
"Well, I can go get the truck and trailer, but I hate to just leave you sitting here."
Moments pass as we ponder our options...
"Well... it has a tube and it is holding air... and most of the bead has seated. Maybe you can just ride it really slow and we can limp it back to town. Maybe that will even make the bead seat with the weight of the bike on it?"
"I'm game."
So we clean everything up, reinstall the wheel, pack our stuff and get on the road. Roger takes the lead, both of us with our hazzard flashers going. He runs maybe 10-15mph along the edge of the road. I can see the hump on each side of the tire where it has refused to seat. Man, this is going to be a looonnnggg 15 miles!
But about the time that thought pops into my head, I notice one of the bulges disappears. Roger pulls off onto a clearing on the shoulder and tells me he felt it pop into place. Cool! Let's see if the other side will do the same. Maybe a mile down the road the other side pops into place. Sweet!! Roger kills his flashers and waves me on by to lead the way back to town. We pull into the hotel and decide that maybe calling it an early day is not such a bad idea after all
Trying to do something with that nasty tube
Our parking area for the week
Well, I think it's time for a cold beer!
We enjoy a cold beer and then decide we might as well grab some dinner. It's back to the BBQ place on the edge of town. They're starting to recognize us. It might be because we look so motley every time we show up
Back at the hotel I spend some time looking over riding options for tomorrow. Not much to think about really. The plan is to head back to the Rim Trail at the point where we stopped Monday and try to finish the lower half of it. In light of our first day of riding the trail and still feeling the high from a great ride today, I'm feeling pretty good about tomorrow. Of course, I have enough experience to remember that when I'm feeling confident is the time to be most cautious... I've learned that from the school of hard knocks
Well, I want to be fresh for tomorrow, so I call it an evening and head for bed.