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- Friday
Okay then... back to the business of riding!
It is now Wednesday morning, yet another spectacularly beautiful morning. Looks like a perfect day to tackle the rest of the Rim Trail. I confess I feel a real sense of excitement bubbling just under the surface of my normal morning sludgey feeling... We prep the bikes and head out right around 9:00am, running down the Sunspot Highway to Phil's house where we head back into the woods on Alamo Rd. Rather than run all the way to the trail head, we just cut back through the camp area to get on the trail where we dropped out the day before yesterday with James.
We reach the trail and start South, passing the area where James went off, climbing on up and around the mountain. It doesn't take long for me to start loosening up and relaxing. So much of how I ride is all in my head. Sure, my joints, muscles and reflexes protest that they are no longer twenty, but that is no where near as limiting as what the wrong mental attitude can do to my riding. Having completed the upper section of the trail, I now have a little more confidence in my abilities and less uncertainty about what might lay ahead of us. I guess its like many things in life, the second time around is usually easier and you are left wondering why it was such a big deal the first time
Roger has been leading - a nice "level" part of the trail
The dirt sections are more to my liking, not as rough and tiring as in the rocks
But the dirt stuff rarely stays dirt for any distance and soon becomes like this
Note the U shape of the trail, it catches and retains the rocks when rain runs through and makes riding on either side of them a challenge - not too bad right here
Even with the signs, sometimes finding the next piece of the trail is a little more difficult on the Southern section - We'll be checking out Heart Attack Canyon next time...
The only real mud we have seen so far...
The mud puddle is actually a forest road. It winds up and around the back side of the hill. The road and trail actually run together at this point. We putt along the road looking for where the trail might peel off back into the woods and find it maybe a mile or so down the road at another wooded intersection.
Off we go... I like this!
We come around the side of a hill, still on the nice smooth single track dirt like you see above, and a rafter of wild turkeys, maybe four or five big fat ones, scatter and run under a fence that is right next to this section of the trail. They stop about thirty feet away from us and watch us warily. At least they were on the ground running and not shooting out of a tree or some weeds on the side of the trail. I've had a few close calls on other rides with turkeys that had done that! Hitting one of those big things is not my idea of fun Just beyond the turkeys we come upon this...
Easy to get the bikes over the tree
But it still gets the heart pumping and we take a break - the turkeys are just beyond Roger and down the hill slightly
The ground here is really soft soil. It looks there have been some other riders through here very recently, maybe even this morning or perhaps late yesterday. The dirt at their tire marks is still damp looking. It will be interesting to see if we encounter anyone else on the trail today. Other than the guy with the two dogs, we saw no one else on the trail the first day.
Into the unknown...
I don't know if we are getting used to the altitude, getting more used to the riding and are relaxing more, or both. However, we seem to be taking fewer breaks, running a slightly faster pace, and not taking as long to recover when we do stop as we had been doing the first day. I am certainly feeling better. Of course, as soon as that thought enters my head, I notice Roger disappearing up a pretty steep climb. I stand up, drop a gear, lean forward and get on the gas. From here it doesn't look like the climb is real long, but it is STEEP and ROCKY, winding through some trees as it makes its way to the top of the hill. There are several nasty roots as well. All we need now is some rain and this would make for a REALLY challenging climb! As it is, I just bounce my way to the top, relying on the lugging power of the 530, and trying to keep my weight as far forward as I can. The front end really wants to come up whenever I hit a good rock or try to accelerate over something. A few times it feels like I might lose my momentum and have to stop... not something I really want to do on such a steep incline I just tell myself in my helmet, "NO WAY!!" and will myself on up to where the trail levels out. Here I see that we are right next to the highway but quite high above it, running along the edge of a ledge. The trail curves back into the woods away from the road and passes through a gate in a fence.
A good place to take another break
Right where the trail vanishes, it goes back left a few yards and then DROPS down the side of the hill
I grab the camera and walk back a bit, the view South from the ledge over the highway
Cool flower pic time - gotta stop and smell the roses... so to speak
The loose bits near the top of the climb
I don't bother with trying to get a picture looking back down the hill. Standing there, only a part of it is even visible and I KNOW it will look like a nice smooth, flat, and wide road if I try to take a picture of it I head back up to where Roger is sitting and join him for a few minutes before we saddle up and keep moving. Once again the squishy sweaty helmet going over the head is just sooo... well... Worth it...?
It is not long before the trail drops us out into a parking lot area. Across the far side is the continuation of the trail. We hop the curb and keep going. We're getting close to the Sunspot Observatory.
In a very short distance, we pop out into an open area and the trail starts looking more like a two track dirt road. It bends back to the East and then we come upon a big wide gate. We have arrived at a paved road, not the main highway, but the road from the highway into the observatory.
Looking back the way we came
This sign can be seem in several places along the highway and at the observatory. Where each planet's orbit crosses the highway, there is a road side sign marking it.
We decide to head over to the observatory to take a break. They have restrooms, drinks, a place to sit in the shade, etc... Once there, I head inside to check out the gift shop to see if they have anything cool I might get as take home gifts for my kids. As expected, the place has all manner of cool nerdy stuff! The problem is that I have no where to carry it on the KTM, so I'll have to get back by here tomorrow or Friday, either on the BMW or in the truck. While inside, I also check out a nice map on the wall. It is black and white and MUCH easier to read than the fancy color map the Forest Service sells. Unfortunately, they are expensive. But I am able to figure out where the trail continues from here. So after a good break and quick snack, we get back on the bikes and go off in search of the rest of the trail.
The "Rim" which the trail follows is pretty well defined. In many places it drops about 1000 feet in the space of a 1/4 to 1/2 mile. At the bottom of that steep slope is the West Side Road that we rode yesterday with Phil. In some places we can see it down below us. The section of the trail just below the Sunspot Observatory runs right along the edge of this rim, affording some great riding and vistas!
The tops of the trees just a short distance away give an indication of how fast the slope falls away, steep enough that walking down it would be challenging
Content to be in their element...
White Sands in the far distance
Mr. "I'm so happy to be here... I want to thank my Mom, God, and KTM... Oh, and I wish for swirled peas!"
We continue heading South and the trail stays pretty rocky and rough. It is not real difficult. It is just rough. So the arms and legs get a good workout absorbing what the suspension does not absorb. Most of this section is fairly level, running along right around 9000 feet with some short drops or climbs here and there. At one spot in particular, it drops down a bit, to about 8700 feet and then makes a sharp bend East. We stop here to take in another great view.
Nice and rocky, something that doesn't change much from this point on...
(I'm not narcissistic, Roger took them, I just post them ).
Looking back to the North
Looking back to the South
Looking good
We head on, but a short way down the trail, I spot something cool.
Don't ask me why, I just think it's cool looking. Maybe it's a contrast thing
I think Roger just likes taking pictures of me
From the turn in the trail that heads East, it is about three miles down to where the trail crosses the West Side Road. It drops down a few hundred feet in elevation, running RIGHT on the edge of the rim. It's really very cool. I love the piney woods. The smells are very strong and fresh. There is a nice cool breeze that blows through my mesh riding suit when we are moving and when we stop. Most of the trail is narrow single track, virtually impossible for an ATV to navigate. However, I noticed at that last overlook stop that the trail had begun to look more like two track and like some ATVs had been in the area. Now it is unmistakable.
The trail continues dropping and we soon drop out into a small "parking" area. This is where we stopped yesterday on our ride with Phil. It is where the West Side Road crests over the rim and head back down to the Sunspot Highway.
Looking back North from the parking area
While we are standing in the shade taking a nice break, a big truck hauling a huge RV comes chugging up the East side of the rim and pulls into the parking area behind us. Behind him comes another big truck hauling a trailer loaded with ATVs. I guess they are getting an early jump on staking out their claim for the coming holiday weekend. This is a great spot with a great view, but I would think it will see a lot of traffic over the course of the weekend. Still, watching the sun set on the Western horizon from here would be pretty cool in the evenings! We visit with the guys briefly before gearing back up. We're kind of tired, but it is still early in the day and there are only 2-3/4 miles of the trail left. How bad can it be...?
Right off the bat, the trail starts with a steep rocky climb. This would not be so bad in and of itself, except... Well... There is a downed tree over most of the width of the trail. It is not laying on the ground, but instead sits up about shoulder high off the ground. There is a narrow spot cut out of the trunk to the left side of the trail, right about where the side of the trail kind of slopes upward and is covered with loose rocks. Slip here and go the wrong way and hitting that tree is a real possibility... Don't ask me why I don't get the camera out to get a shot it Roger going up it. Maybe I am a bit dismayed that he IS going up it, because that means I have to go up it
Sitting there watching Roger's dust blow away from the trail as he bounces up the hill and out of sight, I am thinking, "Well... it's just another short climb. It won't be like this the whole way..." I study the hill side for a moment, steel myself, and get on the gas. This one is steep and keeping the momentum is critical.
I grind up through the rocks, keeping my eyes glued to the gap between the two sections of the tree trunk and trying HARD not to stare at the tree itself. The bike is sliding and I keep nudging it toward the gap, almost... there... almost... The bike slides some more, the rear stepping out a bit, putting me slightly off line and on course for my shoulder to smack the end of the trunk. I shove the bike over, shift my weight and body away from the trunk and slip on through. I MADE IT!! HAHAHA... uh.. wait a second...
I got so focused on clearing the tree without hitting it that I forgot to keep scanning on beyond the tree and there is still a LOT more of this hill to be conquered! Right away there are big rocks resting on some rock ledges (bigger rocks embedded in the ground). Countless smaller rocks lay scattered everywhere like a spilled bag of ball bearings. I gather my wits, scan for a line, and get on the gas!! Things are going pretty well until I get about two thirds of the way up and hit a BIG rock that kills my momentum. I have to stab a foot down to keep from tipping over and I grab a fist full of front brake...
And start sliding backward...
I can get both feet down when sitting on this bike... when I am on level ground. Right now the ground is anything BUT level! Not only does it slope down behind me, it also slopes away to my right so there is no chance of getting a foot down over there without the bike just going right on over. I lean hard left to get the weight of myself and the bike on the left leg. I imagine I must look kind of silly because I have my left foot dancing and dodging around rocks as fast as I can, all by feel, until I can get it to something that feels remotely solid. Meanwhile I am leaning as far forward as I can and the front tire is still sliding. My right foot is mashing the rear brake pedal as far as it will go... and the rear is sliding... About the time I am thinking this isn't going to be pretty, the back tire catches a big rock behind me and I come to an abrupt stop, my heart pounding and me panting HARD to catch my breath.
Great. I'm not on the ground, which is always a good thing. I can sit here a minute or so and catch my breath. I look ahead, pondering how I'm gonna get this thing moving again... Here is where the 13/52 gearing really pays off! The hard thing about restarting a climb if you can't abort and make another attempt is getting up enough speed so you can get back up on the pegs, get your weight forward, and let your legs work like shock absorbers as the bike bounces around under you. Starting in first means having to shift right away while trying to do all the other stuff needed to keep me upright. The low gearing allows me to start in second and reach a good speed without having to worry about shifting.
I pick my line, steady myself and the bike, rev up the engine and start putting power to the ground...
And... I'm not moving...
A quick glance down and I spot a big rock RIGHT in front of my back tire! Apparently I kicked this one with my left foot while flailing around and it rolled right down under the bike, nestling under the tire like a wheel chock I wiggle the bike while putting down some power, hoping to get it moved out of the way.... Nothing doing... I try using my right foot to reach under the bike and dislodge it... Nothing doing... I really don't want to try getting on/off the bike while perched in this precarious position, so my only choice is to shift my weight to the right and hope I can kick it out with my left foot. Once again I am REALLY glad the KTM does not weigh as much as the KLR!! VERRRY slowly I lean the bike to the right, making sure I have my foot where I can hold the weight. A few of the smaller rocks roll under my foot. I kick them away and feel for solid purchase on the ground, then lean a little further, juuuust enough to tip the bike to the right so I can get my left foot off the ground. Then I very gingerly start swinging my boot heel against the rock while gently rocking the bike back and forth a tiny bit. I manage to time a kick with the bike rolling back and before the rock can roll down under the tire further, I smack it hard, sending it rolling out to the right enough that the tire can clear it.
Okay... Let's try that again!
I take a few deep breaths to relax my body and clear my mind. I set my sight as far up the trail as I can see, rev motor and start feeding in the clutch. Sometimes you have to do this gently or you just spin the tire. Other times you just have to get it on!! As soon as I can feel the tire biting into the rock and not slipping, I get on it and the bike leaps up and takes off!! I haul myself up onto the pegs and lean as far forward as I can. The bike is kicking from side to side as the front end deflects of some of the larger rocks. I can see what looks like the top of the hill just ahead. And then I see the familiar site of Rogers white helmet just over the crest where he's sitting and probably wondering what on Earth has happened to me I made it!! HAHAHA!!!
Yeah, I'm kind of starting to get a bit crazy out here... It must be the thin air... yeah... that's it
When I reach the top Roger is looking at me like, "Everything okay?" I nod that I am fine and just need to rest a minute.
"Dude... That was tough!"
"No kidding, but its probably not going to be like that the rest of the way. I'd sure hate to have to go back down that..."
Me, "Amen!"
After I catch my breath, we head off down the trail. The next few minutes aren't so bad. We just kind of bump along, gently winding back and forth. BUT... and there's always a BUT... right? BUT, we soon come to another rough looking climb of unknown length because the the trail curves out of sight as it climbs. We stop and ponder it for a moment. This time I DO get out the camera and set it to video mode so I can catch Roger heading up. He waits for a moment... obviously looking for something that resembles a good line, then takes off!
Right after he vanishes around the corner in a cloud of dust, I hear him really getting on the gas... Hmmm... That can't be good...
I last saw him going left and still pointed up when he got to the top of what I can see here.
You can see those big rocks down in the lower left of the shot above. Yes. There are more of them further up the trail. I put the camera way, move down to the start of the hill, pause for a moment to check my sanity... nope not there, and get on the gas!
This climb is rough and the bike is kicking around pretty good, but there is no tree to dodge and I can keep my eyes on the trail this time. I motor to the top, make the turn, keep climbing a bit further and then find Roger waiting at the top. Okay... I can deal with this, but I am getting kind of tired about now. This kind of riding really takes a lot of energy!
Now, I have absolutely NO REASON for thinking this, but for whatever reason, call it denial maybe, I keep telling myself the worst is probably over. I really need to learn to just stop that silly habit We ride on and soon come to this...
... a spot where I have to question our sanity... again...
I am not real wild about the idea of going back the way we just came and trying to get down that last hill or the first hill, BUT... and there it is again... This hill is STEEP!! It drops well over a hundred feet in about the same horizontal distance. No, I am not kidding... I am serious!! We both sit there for a moment, looking at the hill... looking at each other... looking at the hill...
Roger nudges up to the left side, apparently thinking this side won't be as bad as the right side, then he rolls over the edge. Right away his back tire is sliding and I can see him working the front brake, releasing the rear to keep it from sliding on around in a sadistic attempt to take the lead. He has a couple serious moments where he looks like he might go over or start picking up way to much speed, but he stays on top of it and keeps going. After a few tense minutes he finally rolls out to the bottom, pulls into the shade, dismounts, and waits to see what I am going to do...
Awww dang! Now I have to do it!
Well, the left side worked for him... So left side it is!
What you can't really see in the picture is that this section is basically a wash, with that typical V shape to it and all the big rocks laying in the bottom of the V. The sides of the V are loose dry dirt, so steep that the tires want to just slide right down them. Also, if you notice that first shady spot that covers most of the width of the trail, there is a rock ledge just in front of it. The trail drops pretty good right there!
I don't do the down thing as well as I do the up. So I am not real confident about this whole process. I get nervous when the bike starts picking up speed and I can't slow it down without the front end sliding out or the back end trying to play band leader. I know I should probably just stand up and go, but my brain insists that I sit and put out the legs, easing my way down from rock to rock, stopping and looking for the next few feet and planning where I want to stop next. This works pretty good until I get to that ledge. There is simply no way for me to let the front end go over while still keeping my legs out, so I stand up. Immediately the bike starts accelerating. The back tire locks and slides, dragging the bike down into the V. The front slides down with it and when it hits bottom, the momentum of the bike just carries us both right on over. The side of the V is high enough that I basically just step off the bike on the right side and let it lay on over. Fortunately, it does not start sliding down the hill without me. I end up just this side of that tall tree in the middle of the trail in the shot above.
Okay... no big deal. This bike is light, just pick it up and find a way to get back on it. I reach down, grab the handle bar, lift it up and at the same time lose my footing a little bit in the loose gravel. While doing the dirt boot shuffle on the slope while standing in some tangled undergrowth and attempting to keep myself upright, I manage to toss the bike right on over to its left side...
I take a moment to stop and remind myself that I AM having fun!
I walk around to the other side of the bike, make sure of my footing, then lift it upright. I carefully swing a leg over, get myself situated and take stock of the rest of the trail. It is still steep and rough, but I AM going to do it standing up! I just head right on through the rocks in the bottom of the V, counting on the suspension to just do it's thing and for the V shape of the trail to throw me back on line if I veer off to one side. I start picking up speed right away, hitting some pretty good rocks on the way down, but to my great relief I manage to get to where the trail starts to roll out and get smoother. I pull up next to Roger in the shade.
"Dude!! I sure hope this is the worst of it because I don't know that I can get myself back up that hill!!"
There I go again!
"Me too... that was kind of wild!"
Checking the GPS, it turns out that this was about a 150-200 foot drop in about the same horizontal distance We rest a while longer. Both of us are getting tired and hot. I have been hitting the Camel-Bak pretty hard. Looking at the GPS again, it seems like the worst should be over because we are getting close to the highway and the topo lines don't look too close to each other... at least not when I am zoomed wayyy in.
But if you look at that picture above again, you'll notice that big hill in the background... and that the trail starts to go up... That's right, another good climb! This climb is long. It is not quite as rocky and loose, being more dirt and roots, but it just keeps going and going. I can feel my forearms starting to burn after a few minutes of climbing. About the time I start thinking I might have to find a place where I can stop and rest, I see the top and press on to find Roger waiting. This climb comes right back up the 200 feet or so we just came down. We've reached the far side of a small pass. The trail goes right over the top of peak and then curves back to the Northeast as it starts down again.
This descent is not as hairy as that last one, but it still drops pretty fast, almost 300 feet in less than a half mile. Just before we reach the very bottom, Roger stops. There is a pretty good wash with a steep entry, a tight switchback in the bottom, and a steep climb out on the far side. The trail makes almost a 90 degree turn to the left at the edge, dropping down into the wash. Roger heads down, makes the turn, then powers up the far side into another switch back that continues up the hill.
The view from the edge - you can see Roger on the far side after the second switchback - the first is out of the shot below and left
The good thing about this wash is that it is mostly just dirt and roots. What rocks there are along the trail are relatively small. So traction is not really an issue. I head on down, make the first turn, power up the hill to the next one, crank the bike around because it is pretty sharp, and then chase Roger on up the hill. Once again, looking at the GPS I keep thinking, we have to be getting close to the end... The highway is just sooo close... as the birds fly... But the trail is not done with us yet...
Not far from the wash, we come to another. There are downed trees and branches everywhere. Again, there is a sharp switchback right at the point where a good steep climb starts, but this time it is rocky. It is also where I catch a glimpse of something I rarely see... Roger's bike on the ground! I fumble to get my camera out as fast as I can, but Roger is quick!!
He almost gets it righted before I can snap off a hasty shot...
He didn't "crash", he just couldn't get a foot on the ground when he stopped. I got the pic... it happened!!
Since I already have the camera out, I switch it on over to video mode so I can catch Roger's attempt at the climb. You never know... dropping his bike like that might have rattled him a bit I might catch something good on the video
You can really see in this video just how steep the hill is. Getting started and getting his momentum to the point where he can stand up is tough. Near the end it starts looking easy. What you don't see is that the trail makes a sharp turn to the left and then gets REALLY steep and nasty. I suspect something is up when I am putting my camera away and suddenly hear Roger's engine roar for a few seconds and then go silent... I wait a few moments to see if he refires it... nothing... Well... I guess I have to get on up there to make sure he's okay and not in need of help.
Having seen Roger's "issue" with making the switchback at the base of the climb, I make sure to run as wide as I can going through it so I can carry as much speed as possible going into the climb. I get through the first section you see Roger doing in the video without any problems. Then, right about where the video ends and the trail turns, the going gets pretty rough. Not only that, the trail goes off camber, sloping with the hill. I am trying hard to stay relaxed and focused, hoping the bike will do all the work. I'm starting to feel pretty good about this climb when I come around the corner... and...
I don't know for sure if he dropped it, and since I didn't get a picture, there is "plausible deniability"...
I did a bit of backsliding, not in the moral sense but in the gravel sense, before I was able to come to a stop and get the shot above. Although, given some of the words that were going through my head when I was going backward... I guess you could say I was also doing it in the moral sense
Look at those rocks... I've got to thread between those babies to get moving again.
Roger gives me a thumbs up to let me know everything is good. We just hang out for a few moments, catching our breath and just soaking in the feeling of being out in such a fantastic place having soooo much "fun". But dang... I am really starting to wear out! Roger is ready so he takes off again. I wait a bit to let him get ahead of me. Then it's time to see if I can get moving again. Deep breath... Focus on the line... Ease on the power... Rock back and forth because ANOTHER rock has rolled in front of my back tire! Fortunately, just rocking back and forth a bit allows me to get up just enough speed to roll over the rock so I don't have to repeat the same process as I did on the first hill climb. I manage to get on around the side of the hill and make it to the top, where we decided to take another break, which are coming much more often and lasting a bit longer now than earlier in the day.
Looking back down from the top - it turns hard right and goes down right where it vanishes between the trees
I tell Roger that I can feel my cheeks, the tip of my nose, and my arms tingling. I've experienced that feeling before in Colorado at higher altitudes. We decide to just sit for a while. There is no need to rush and get ourselves killed, especially way out here where it would be VERY difficult for someone to retrieve one of us if we were unable to ride out. ATVs would not be able to get in here. I would later ask a ranger about this and was told they would actually hike in with a stretcher, carry you out until they could get you to a point where either an ATV or helicopter could be used. That's NOT a bill I want to pay... So we rest, and I focus on deep and slow breathing until the tingling goes away in a few more minutes. We've got to be getting close...!!
The trail continues up from where we are resting. We are REALLY hoping it peaks soon and the rest of the trail will be down hill. We're both getting pretty tired. Roger fires up his bike and starts up the trail. I thumb the starter and...
Nothing...
I try again... I hear the starter gear click against the crank... Nothing...
All this starting and stopping, low speed riding, the radiator cooling fan kicking on and off, and my battery seems to have gone dead. Now, if I were on the KLR, I'd be in a real pickle... Trying to push start it going up hill would be impossible and the only alternative would be to attempt a bump start going DOWN the hill we just came up, riding ALL THE WAY to the other side of the wash, turning around and having to do it all over again All that with Roger already up the trail and out of site... Right, so I am thrilled that the KTM has a kick start The only problem is I'm in a tight spot with regard to being able to get the kick stand down so I can really get up on the lever and give it a good kick. I decide to just put out the lever and try to kick it while sitting. It's a bit awkward, but on the first attempt the bike kind of sputters. The second try I push just a little bit harder... and it fires!! Thank you!! Satisfied the bike is going to keep running, I start up the trail after Roger.
I reach the high point of the trail and it turns to the Southeast, dropping down into another small pass. Here's what I see...
A stick forest... and Roger working his way down what looks like a steep trail section
Really strange how the trees have all just been "topped", leaving nothing but the trunks standing - not really something I would expect as the result of a fire, but rather from a tornado... but not over such a wide area!?
Now we are back to rocky with lots of downed trees/branches...
At first it looks like the trail might keep going on up the next hill, but I saw Roger take a left turn somewhere down there.
So I head on down the trail to see what I might find. And what I find is a section so washed out, rough, steep, and nasty that Roger has decided to get off his bike and walk it down! I don't think I have EVER seen him do that and we've ridden some pretty nasty stuff.
You can just see his helmet there left of center about to vanish behind the dense undergrowth.
We haven't seen much that makes us think anyone has been back here in a long time. With all the downed trees everywhere I am REALLY worried that we might come upon one that we can't get over or around... because... that would mean turning around... If I really really HAD TO, I am sure I could ride all the way back, but the thought of it makes me kind of numb... Roger disappears down the hill. I pause for a moment, asking myself if I am having fun...? In moments like these, it's hard to say. I've been in enough moments like these to know that if I get through it, I will look back on it and think it was a great time!! If I get through it... I like to call this "retroactive fun". It might suck in the moment, but when you look back on it retroactively, it becomes fun after the fact. Sometimes it's later that night over dinner when this happens and we're all telling stories about the days ride... and sometimes it is when the bruising and swelling go away or a cast finally comes off
Down I go...
If you look carefully at the above picture, you'll see a downed tree right next that tall tree where the trail turns left and disappears. That is my first objective. Get there, use it to stop and prop myself up, scan ahead and decide on the next course of action. Getting to the tree is not too bad. Stopping is dicey as the front is already trying to slide a bit and the back is sliding. I manage to get the bike over, wobble a bit and catch it, then plant my right foot on the trunk and come to a nice complete stop.
What I see below makes me stay stopped for a few minutes to gather my strength and my breath. It gets steeper. Now I see why Roger was off the bike and walking it. The trail has that familiar V shape, but in the bottom of the V it is trenched, about the width of a tire, and maybe 6-10 inches deep. Moreover, there are a series of steps or ledges. It looks like water collects in the narrow trenches, flows over the ledge and forms the next trench, filling it and continuing down the side of the mountain. Of course there are assorted scattered rocks and branches along the way as well.
I decide to stay on the bike. Rather than try to ride the side of the V and risking an uncontrolled slide into the trench, I just point right into it and GO. The trail is narrow enough now and the sides high enough that I can put both feet out, place them at the top of the sides, and hold the bike upright. That's great for side to side, but it doesn't help a whole lot with keeping me from trucking right on down the hill. Fortunately, I can use each ledge as a "speed bump", knocking off enough speed before the harsh drop off the ledge into the next trench, and repeating until I get most of the way down. Almost to the bottom, there is a BIG tree down across the trail. I can see Roger on the far side and he's waving/pointing for me to go around it. A quick glance and I can see where Roger had to go off the trail a few yards to clear the base of the trunk. It's nasty looking and I can see where his rear tire was sliding and kicking out some dirt as he got on the gas. I turn and follow his track, have a pretty good wobble as I try to make the sharp turn toward the trail while on a down slope, and then make my way back to the trail.
I join Roger on the trail. He's looking like I feel. I think we're both ready for the fun to be over. We haven't had any lunch. Granola bars and peanut butter crackers only last so long... But we HAVE to be getting close to the end of the trail!!
We make our way down the rest of the hill without too much trouble. The trail goes back into some woods, the kind where the trees have tops on them, and the shade is welcome. I approach the crest of a slight hill and can see that the trail turns hard right and drops on down the hill. Roger is already out of sight. I approach the turn and there is a BIG pine tree RIGHT in the inside corner. I move a bit wide to make sure my bars clear it and the next thing I know the bike is going down!! It just slides right out from under me. I've got next to no speed at all, so I just step off and to the side. But now it is pointing down hill and the wrong direction.
I move over to lift the bike and then I see the problem. There is a small tree trunk, maybe 2" in diameter, laying along the outside edge of the turn. It has no bark at all on it. I was braking and trying to turn right when the tire hit that trunk. I was looking through the turn and down the hill. I never saw it. Without the bark on it, it is super smooth and slick. I can see the rubber marks on the wood where the tire slid. I get the bike picked up, but like I said, the front end is pointing down hill and about 120 degrees from the direction of the trail. I try pulling it backward up on to the trail... Not happening. Well... time to just drag the thing. I lay it over to the right at about a 45 degree angle, letting it rest on the hip/thigh of my left leg. The big tree is close enough that I can brace against it with the right side of my body, pulling against it and the bike so that I can pull the bike toward the big tree and back onto the trail. It is at this point where I really just close my eyes and PULL!!! The KTM is light compared to the KLR, but it is still a couple hundred pounds... I manage to get it where I want it, get it stood back upright, and get on it. At that point, all I can do is just sit there. My heart is POUNDING! I am breathing HARD. I am ready for this to be OVER!!
CLICK!
Awww dang!!
The battery is dead again!
CLICK!
CLICK!
Hmmm... Guess I'll have to kick start it again...
There is only one problem... I am leaning up against a tree on my right side and the trail slopes away fairly steep on the left side, so there is no way to get a foot down or to put the bike on its kickstand. Nor do I have the energy to drag it around any more to get it where I might be able to put it on the kickstand. I try kicking from the seated position again, but without at least being able to get my left foot on the ground, it is pointless. I stop for a moment just to laugh at the absurdity of the moment.
I spot Roger down through the woods standing at what appears to be the end of the trail at the bottom of a good steep hill. He's looking up to see what is going on with me and the bike. Realizing I am FINALLY near the end, I pull in the clutch, pop into neutral and just give the bike a hard shove. I start down the hill, slowly at first and then start picking up some speed. I ease on the back brake a bit and a little on the front to keep things from getting out of hand. I don't want to make the mistake of prematurely thinking I made it only to wipe out in the last thirty feet after surviving all the stuff before this point. I soon reach the bottom and roll out into some shade next to Roger's bike. As I go to dismount, I realize just how tired I am as I feel like all my energy has been completely drained. Standing next to the bike removing my helmet and jacket, I realize my hands are shaking. Time for a good break!
The trail goes between the two big trees behind the bikes, then turns hard right up the hill above Roger's head
Well... We did it! We're still in one piece. There's no serious damage to either bike. We both decide it's just time to roll back up the Sunspot highway and call it a day... I can now say I have ridden the entire Rim Trail and survived it. I can't wait to do it again! Never mind the fact that I have so little energy right now I can hardly walk in a straight line
We finally muster up enough energy to get serious about riding back.
CLICK!
Well, I thought I might get lucky
I try kick starting the bike, but the ground is pretty soft and the kick stand starts sinking into the ground before I can get the bike fired. There is a nice big gentle hill rolling down from where I am parked to the shoulder of the highway. Roger suggests I just bump start it using the hill. Sounds good. I pop it into second gear, coast down the hill and dump the clutch... VROOM!!
Sweet!
I keep it revving, Roger joins me, and we head North. Now... I may be tired and I might think I have had enough riding for one day... BUT... and there is always a BUT... The Sunspot Highway just seems to pump energy right back into me. Once we get rolling and hit a few corners, it's like I just did a shot of some kind of energy drink or something. The combination of the road, the bike, the beautiful day, the cool breeze, the fact that it won't be getting any harder between here and town... Well... It just feels great!!
A few miles down the road I notice that the fairing on the right side of my gas tank is kind of flapping in the wind... Hmmm... I hold it with my right knee and keep it from flapping, but that is not real comfy and I don't want to do it for the next twenty miles or so. I pull over at a roadside parking spot for the trail head of a different trail and have a look. Apparently, that drop on the really steep hill, where I dumped it right after picking it up, did a number on it. The initial hit on the right side pulled the screw holding the fairing to the gas tank right through the plastic tab on the backside of the fairing. A zip tie or two and it is good as new!
We cruise on back to town, reach the hotel, take off the gear, and have a well earned beer!! Thank goodness tomorrow is a big bike day. I don't think I could do two days like today back to back. Like the high from an energy drink, my high from the Sunspot Highway faded almost as soon as it was over We go grab dinner and call it an another early day. I spend part of the evening looking over the maps, checking the trail guide book, and thinking about where we might go tomorrow...
It is now Wednesday morning, yet another spectacularly beautiful morning. Looks like a perfect day to tackle the rest of the Rim Trail. I confess I feel a real sense of excitement bubbling just under the surface of my normal morning sludgey feeling... We prep the bikes and head out right around 9:00am, running down the Sunspot Highway to Phil's house where we head back into the woods on Alamo Rd. Rather than run all the way to the trail head, we just cut back through the camp area to get on the trail where we dropped out the day before yesterday with James.
We reach the trail and start South, passing the area where James went off, climbing on up and around the mountain. It doesn't take long for me to start loosening up and relaxing. So much of how I ride is all in my head. Sure, my joints, muscles and reflexes protest that they are no longer twenty, but that is no where near as limiting as what the wrong mental attitude can do to my riding. Having completed the upper section of the trail, I now have a little more confidence in my abilities and less uncertainty about what might lay ahead of us. I guess its like many things in life, the second time around is usually easier and you are left wondering why it was such a big deal the first time
Roger has been leading - a nice "level" part of the trail
The dirt sections are more to my liking, not as rough and tiring as in the rocks
But the dirt stuff rarely stays dirt for any distance and soon becomes like this
Note the U shape of the trail, it catches and retains the rocks when rain runs through and makes riding on either side of them a challenge - not too bad right here
Even with the signs, sometimes finding the next piece of the trail is a little more difficult on the Southern section - We'll be checking out Heart Attack Canyon next time...
The only real mud we have seen so far...
The mud puddle is actually a forest road. It winds up and around the back side of the hill. The road and trail actually run together at this point. We putt along the road looking for where the trail might peel off back into the woods and find it maybe a mile or so down the road at another wooded intersection.
Off we go... I like this!
We come around the side of a hill, still on the nice smooth single track dirt like you see above, and a rafter of wild turkeys, maybe four or five big fat ones, scatter and run under a fence that is right next to this section of the trail. They stop about thirty feet away from us and watch us warily. At least they were on the ground running and not shooting out of a tree or some weeds on the side of the trail. I've had a few close calls on other rides with turkeys that had done that! Hitting one of those big things is not my idea of fun Just beyond the turkeys we come upon this...
Easy to get the bikes over the tree
But it still gets the heart pumping and we take a break - the turkeys are just beyond Roger and down the hill slightly
The ground here is really soft soil. It looks there have been some other riders through here very recently, maybe even this morning or perhaps late yesterday. The dirt at their tire marks is still damp looking. It will be interesting to see if we encounter anyone else on the trail today. Other than the guy with the two dogs, we saw no one else on the trail the first day.
Into the unknown...
I don't know if we are getting used to the altitude, getting more used to the riding and are relaxing more, or both. However, we seem to be taking fewer breaks, running a slightly faster pace, and not taking as long to recover when we do stop as we had been doing the first day. I am certainly feeling better. Of course, as soon as that thought enters my head, I notice Roger disappearing up a pretty steep climb. I stand up, drop a gear, lean forward and get on the gas. From here it doesn't look like the climb is real long, but it is STEEP and ROCKY, winding through some trees as it makes its way to the top of the hill. There are several nasty roots as well. All we need now is some rain and this would make for a REALLY challenging climb! As it is, I just bounce my way to the top, relying on the lugging power of the 530, and trying to keep my weight as far forward as I can. The front end really wants to come up whenever I hit a good rock or try to accelerate over something. A few times it feels like I might lose my momentum and have to stop... not something I really want to do on such a steep incline I just tell myself in my helmet, "NO WAY!!" and will myself on up to where the trail levels out. Here I see that we are right next to the highway but quite high above it, running along the edge of a ledge. The trail curves back into the woods away from the road and passes through a gate in a fence.
A good place to take another break
Right where the trail vanishes, it goes back left a few yards and then DROPS down the side of the hill
I grab the camera and walk back a bit, the view South from the ledge over the highway
Cool flower pic time - gotta stop and smell the roses... so to speak
The loose bits near the top of the climb
I don't bother with trying to get a picture looking back down the hill. Standing there, only a part of it is even visible and I KNOW it will look like a nice smooth, flat, and wide road if I try to take a picture of it I head back up to where Roger is sitting and join him for a few minutes before we saddle up and keep moving. Once again the squishy sweaty helmet going over the head is just sooo... well... Worth it...?
It is not long before the trail drops us out into a parking lot area. Across the far side is the continuation of the trail. We hop the curb and keep going. We're getting close to the Sunspot Observatory.
In a very short distance, we pop out into an open area and the trail starts looking more like a two track dirt road. It bends back to the East and then we come upon a big wide gate. We have arrived at a paved road, not the main highway, but the road from the highway into the observatory.
Looking back the way we came
This sign can be seem in several places along the highway and at the observatory. Where each planet's orbit crosses the highway, there is a road side sign marking it.
We decide to head over to the observatory to take a break. They have restrooms, drinks, a place to sit in the shade, etc... Once there, I head inside to check out the gift shop to see if they have anything cool I might get as take home gifts for my kids. As expected, the place has all manner of cool nerdy stuff! The problem is that I have no where to carry it on the KTM, so I'll have to get back by here tomorrow or Friday, either on the BMW or in the truck. While inside, I also check out a nice map on the wall. It is black and white and MUCH easier to read than the fancy color map the Forest Service sells. Unfortunately, they are expensive. But I am able to figure out where the trail continues from here. So after a good break and quick snack, we get back on the bikes and go off in search of the rest of the trail.
The "Rim" which the trail follows is pretty well defined. In many places it drops about 1000 feet in the space of a 1/4 to 1/2 mile. At the bottom of that steep slope is the West Side Road that we rode yesterday with Phil. In some places we can see it down below us. The section of the trail just below the Sunspot Observatory runs right along the edge of this rim, affording some great riding and vistas!
The tops of the trees just a short distance away give an indication of how fast the slope falls away, steep enough that walking down it would be challenging
Content to be in their element...
White Sands in the far distance
Mr. "I'm so happy to be here... I want to thank my Mom, God, and KTM... Oh, and I wish for swirled peas!"
We continue heading South and the trail stays pretty rocky and rough. It is not real difficult. It is just rough. So the arms and legs get a good workout absorbing what the suspension does not absorb. Most of this section is fairly level, running along right around 9000 feet with some short drops or climbs here and there. At one spot in particular, it drops down a bit, to about 8700 feet and then makes a sharp bend East. We stop here to take in another great view.
Nice and rocky, something that doesn't change much from this point on...
(I'm not narcissistic, Roger took them, I just post them ).
Looking back to the North
Looking back to the South
Looking good
We head on, but a short way down the trail, I spot something cool.
Don't ask me why, I just think it's cool looking. Maybe it's a contrast thing
I think Roger just likes taking pictures of me
From the turn in the trail that heads East, it is about three miles down to where the trail crosses the West Side Road. It drops down a few hundred feet in elevation, running RIGHT on the edge of the rim. It's really very cool. I love the piney woods. The smells are very strong and fresh. There is a nice cool breeze that blows through my mesh riding suit when we are moving and when we stop. Most of the trail is narrow single track, virtually impossible for an ATV to navigate. However, I noticed at that last overlook stop that the trail had begun to look more like two track and like some ATVs had been in the area. Now it is unmistakable.
The trail continues dropping and we soon drop out into a small "parking" area. This is where we stopped yesterday on our ride with Phil. It is where the West Side Road crests over the rim and head back down to the Sunspot Highway.
Looking back North from the parking area
While we are standing in the shade taking a nice break, a big truck hauling a huge RV comes chugging up the East side of the rim and pulls into the parking area behind us. Behind him comes another big truck hauling a trailer loaded with ATVs. I guess they are getting an early jump on staking out their claim for the coming holiday weekend. This is a great spot with a great view, but I would think it will see a lot of traffic over the course of the weekend. Still, watching the sun set on the Western horizon from here would be pretty cool in the evenings! We visit with the guys briefly before gearing back up. We're kind of tired, but it is still early in the day and there are only 2-3/4 miles of the trail left. How bad can it be...?
Right off the bat, the trail starts with a steep rocky climb. This would not be so bad in and of itself, except... Well... There is a downed tree over most of the width of the trail. It is not laying on the ground, but instead sits up about shoulder high off the ground. There is a narrow spot cut out of the trunk to the left side of the trail, right about where the side of the trail kind of slopes upward and is covered with loose rocks. Slip here and go the wrong way and hitting that tree is a real possibility... Don't ask me why I don't get the camera out to get a shot it Roger going up it. Maybe I am a bit dismayed that he IS going up it, because that means I have to go up it
Sitting there watching Roger's dust blow away from the trail as he bounces up the hill and out of sight, I am thinking, "Well... it's just another short climb. It won't be like this the whole way..." I study the hill side for a moment, steel myself, and get on the gas. This one is steep and keeping the momentum is critical.
I grind up through the rocks, keeping my eyes glued to the gap between the two sections of the tree trunk and trying HARD not to stare at the tree itself. The bike is sliding and I keep nudging it toward the gap, almost... there... almost... The bike slides some more, the rear stepping out a bit, putting me slightly off line and on course for my shoulder to smack the end of the trunk. I shove the bike over, shift my weight and body away from the trunk and slip on through. I MADE IT!! HAHAHA... uh.. wait a second...
I got so focused on clearing the tree without hitting it that I forgot to keep scanning on beyond the tree and there is still a LOT more of this hill to be conquered! Right away there are big rocks resting on some rock ledges (bigger rocks embedded in the ground). Countless smaller rocks lay scattered everywhere like a spilled bag of ball bearings. I gather my wits, scan for a line, and get on the gas!! Things are going pretty well until I get about two thirds of the way up and hit a BIG rock that kills my momentum. I have to stab a foot down to keep from tipping over and I grab a fist full of front brake...
And start sliding backward...
I can get both feet down when sitting on this bike... when I am on level ground. Right now the ground is anything BUT level! Not only does it slope down behind me, it also slopes away to my right so there is no chance of getting a foot down over there without the bike just going right on over. I lean hard left to get the weight of myself and the bike on the left leg. I imagine I must look kind of silly because I have my left foot dancing and dodging around rocks as fast as I can, all by feel, until I can get it to something that feels remotely solid. Meanwhile I am leaning as far forward as I can and the front tire is still sliding. My right foot is mashing the rear brake pedal as far as it will go... and the rear is sliding... About the time I am thinking this isn't going to be pretty, the back tire catches a big rock behind me and I come to an abrupt stop, my heart pounding and me panting HARD to catch my breath.
Great. I'm not on the ground, which is always a good thing. I can sit here a minute or so and catch my breath. I look ahead, pondering how I'm gonna get this thing moving again... Here is where the 13/52 gearing really pays off! The hard thing about restarting a climb if you can't abort and make another attempt is getting up enough speed so you can get back up on the pegs, get your weight forward, and let your legs work like shock absorbers as the bike bounces around under you. Starting in first means having to shift right away while trying to do all the other stuff needed to keep me upright. The low gearing allows me to start in second and reach a good speed without having to worry about shifting.
I pick my line, steady myself and the bike, rev up the engine and start putting power to the ground...
And... I'm not moving...
A quick glance down and I spot a big rock RIGHT in front of my back tire! Apparently I kicked this one with my left foot while flailing around and it rolled right down under the bike, nestling under the tire like a wheel chock I wiggle the bike while putting down some power, hoping to get it moved out of the way.... Nothing doing... I try using my right foot to reach under the bike and dislodge it... Nothing doing... I really don't want to try getting on/off the bike while perched in this precarious position, so my only choice is to shift my weight to the right and hope I can kick it out with my left foot. Once again I am REALLY glad the KTM does not weigh as much as the KLR!! VERRRY slowly I lean the bike to the right, making sure I have my foot where I can hold the weight. A few of the smaller rocks roll under my foot. I kick them away and feel for solid purchase on the ground, then lean a little further, juuuust enough to tip the bike to the right so I can get my left foot off the ground. Then I very gingerly start swinging my boot heel against the rock while gently rocking the bike back and forth a tiny bit. I manage to time a kick with the bike rolling back and before the rock can roll down under the tire further, I smack it hard, sending it rolling out to the right enough that the tire can clear it.
Okay... Let's try that again!
I take a few deep breaths to relax my body and clear my mind. I set my sight as far up the trail as I can see, rev motor and start feeding in the clutch. Sometimes you have to do this gently or you just spin the tire. Other times you just have to get it on!! As soon as I can feel the tire biting into the rock and not slipping, I get on it and the bike leaps up and takes off!! I haul myself up onto the pegs and lean as far forward as I can. The bike is kicking from side to side as the front end deflects of some of the larger rocks. I can see what looks like the top of the hill just ahead. And then I see the familiar site of Rogers white helmet just over the crest where he's sitting and probably wondering what on Earth has happened to me I made it!! HAHAHA!!!
Yeah, I'm kind of starting to get a bit crazy out here... It must be the thin air... yeah... that's it
When I reach the top Roger is looking at me like, "Everything okay?" I nod that I am fine and just need to rest a minute.
"Dude... That was tough!"
"No kidding, but its probably not going to be like that the rest of the way. I'd sure hate to have to go back down that..."
Me, "Amen!"
After I catch my breath, we head off down the trail. The next few minutes aren't so bad. We just kind of bump along, gently winding back and forth. BUT... and there's always a BUT... right? BUT, we soon come to another rough looking climb of unknown length because the the trail curves out of sight as it climbs. We stop and ponder it for a moment. This time I DO get out the camera and set it to video mode so I can catch Roger heading up. He waits for a moment... obviously looking for something that resembles a good line, then takes off!
Right after he vanishes around the corner in a cloud of dust, I hear him really getting on the gas... Hmmm... That can't be good...
I last saw him going left and still pointed up when he got to the top of what I can see here.
You can see those big rocks down in the lower left of the shot above. Yes. There are more of them further up the trail. I put the camera way, move down to the start of the hill, pause for a moment to check my sanity... nope not there, and get on the gas!
This climb is rough and the bike is kicking around pretty good, but there is no tree to dodge and I can keep my eyes on the trail this time. I motor to the top, make the turn, keep climbing a bit further and then find Roger waiting at the top. Okay... I can deal with this, but I am getting kind of tired about now. This kind of riding really takes a lot of energy!
Now, I have absolutely NO REASON for thinking this, but for whatever reason, call it denial maybe, I keep telling myself the worst is probably over. I really need to learn to just stop that silly habit We ride on and soon come to this...
... a spot where I have to question our sanity... again...
I am not real wild about the idea of going back the way we just came and trying to get down that last hill or the first hill, BUT... and there it is again... This hill is STEEP!! It drops well over a hundred feet in about the same horizontal distance. No, I am not kidding... I am serious!! We both sit there for a moment, looking at the hill... looking at each other... looking at the hill...
Roger nudges up to the left side, apparently thinking this side won't be as bad as the right side, then he rolls over the edge. Right away his back tire is sliding and I can see him working the front brake, releasing the rear to keep it from sliding on around in a sadistic attempt to take the lead. He has a couple serious moments where he looks like he might go over or start picking up way to much speed, but he stays on top of it and keeps going. After a few tense minutes he finally rolls out to the bottom, pulls into the shade, dismounts, and waits to see what I am going to do...
Awww dang! Now I have to do it!
Well, the left side worked for him... So left side it is!
What you can't really see in the picture is that this section is basically a wash, with that typical V shape to it and all the big rocks laying in the bottom of the V. The sides of the V are loose dry dirt, so steep that the tires want to just slide right down them. Also, if you notice that first shady spot that covers most of the width of the trail, there is a rock ledge just in front of it. The trail drops pretty good right there!
I don't do the down thing as well as I do the up. So I am not real confident about this whole process. I get nervous when the bike starts picking up speed and I can't slow it down without the front end sliding out or the back end trying to play band leader. I know I should probably just stand up and go, but my brain insists that I sit and put out the legs, easing my way down from rock to rock, stopping and looking for the next few feet and planning where I want to stop next. This works pretty good until I get to that ledge. There is simply no way for me to let the front end go over while still keeping my legs out, so I stand up. Immediately the bike starts accelerating. The back tire locks and slides, dragging the bike down into the V. The front slides down with it and when it hits bottom, the momentum of the bike just carries us both right on over. The side of the V is high enough that I basically just step off the bike on the right side and let it lay on over. Fortunately, it does not start sliding down the hill without me. I end up just this side of that tall tree in the middle of the trail in the shot above.
Okay... no big deal. This bike is light, just pick it up and find a way to get back on it. I reach down, grab the handle bar, lift it up and at the same time lose my footing a little bit in the loose gravel. While doing the dirt boot shuffle on the slope while standing in some tangled undergrowth and attempting to keep myself upright, I manage to toss the bike right on over to its left side...
I take a moment to stop and remind myself that I AM having fun!
I walk around to the other side of the bike, make sure of my footing, then lift it upright. I carefully swing a leg over, get myself situated and take stock of the rest of the trail. It is still steep and rough, but I AM going to do it standing up! I just head right on through the rocks in the bottom of the V, counting on the suspension to just do it's thing and for the V shape of the trail to throw me back on line if I veer off to one side. I start picking up speed right away, hitting some pretty good rocks on the way down, but to my great relief I manage to get to where the trail starts to roll out and get smoother. I pull up next to Roger in the shade.
"Dude!! I sure hope this is the worst of it because I don't know that I can get myself back up that hill!!"
There I go again!
"Me too... that was kind of wild!"
Checking the GPS, it turns out that this was about a 150-200 foot drop in about the same horizontal distance We rest a while longer. Both of us are getting tired and hot. I have been hitting the Camel-Bak pretty hard. Looking at the GPS again, it seems like the worst should be over because we are getting close to the highway and the topo lines don't look too close to each other... at least not when I am zoomed wayyy in.
But if you look at that picture above again, you'll notice that big hill in the background... and that the trail starts to go up... That's right, another good climb! This climb is long. It is not quite as rocky and loose, being more dirt and roots, but it just keeps going and going. I can feel my forearms starting to burn after a few minutes of climbing. About the time I start thinking I might have to find a place where I can stop and rest, I see the top and press on to find Roger waiting. This climb comes right back up the 200 feet or so we just came down. We've reached the far side of a small pass. The trail goes right over the top of peak and then curves back to the Northeast as it starts down again.
This descent is not as hairy as that last one, but it still drops pretty fast, almost 300 feet in less than a half mile. Just before we reach the very bottom, Roger stops. There is a pretty good wash with a steep entry, a tight switchback in the bottom, and a steep climb out on the far side. The trail makes almost a 90 degree turn to the left at the edge, dropping down into the wash. Roger heads down, makes the turn, then powers up the far side into another switch back that continues up the hill.
The view from the edge - you can see Roger on the far side after the second switchback - the first is out of the shot below and left
The good thing about this wash is that it is mostly just dirt and roots. What rocks there are along the trail are relatively small. So traction is not really an issue. I head on down, make the first turn, power up the hill to the next one, crank the bike around because it is pretty sharp, and then chase Roger on up the hill. Once again, looking at the GPS I keep thinking, we have to be getting close to the end... The highway is just sooo close... as the birds fly... But the trail is not done with us yet...
Not far from the wash, we come to another. There are downed trees and branches everywhere. Again, there is a sharp switchback right at the point where a good steep climb starts, but this time it is rocky. It is also where I catch a glimpse of something I rarely see... Roger's bike on the ground! I fumble to get my camera out as fast as I can, but Roger is quick!!
He almost gets it righted before I can snap off a hasty shot...
He didn't "crash", he just couldn't get a foot on the ground when he stopped. I got the pic... it happened!!
Since I already have the camera out, I switch it on over to video mode so I can catch Roger's attempt at the climb. You never know... dropping his bike like that might have rattled him a bit I might catch something good on the video
You can really see in this video just how steep the hill is. Getting started and getting his momentum to the point where he can stand up is tough. Near the end it starts looking easy. What you don't see is that the trail makes a sharp turn to the left and then gets REALLY steep and nasty. I suspect something is up when I am putting my camera away and suddenly hear Roger's engine roar for a few seconds and then go silent... I wait a few moments to see if he refires it... nothing... Well... I guess I have to get on up there to make sure he's okay and not in need of help.
Having seen Roger's "issue" with making the switchback at the base of the climb, I make sure to run as wide as I can going through it so I can carry as much speed as possible going into the climb. I get through the first section you see Roger doing in the video without any problems. Then, right about where the video ends and the trail turns, the going gets pretty rough. Not only that, the trail goes off camber, sloping with the hill. I am trying hard to stay relaxed and focused, hoping the bike will do all the work. I'm starting to feel pretty good about this climb when I come around the corner... and...
I don't know for sure if he dropped it, and since I didn't get a picture, there is "plausible deniability"...
I did a bit of backsliding, not in the moral sense but in the gravel sense, before I was able to come to a stop and get the shot above. Although, given some of the words that were going through my head when I was going backward... I guess you could say I was also doing it in the moral sense
Look at those rocks... I've got to thread between those babies to get moving again.
Roger gives me a thumbs up to let me know everything is good. We just hang out for a few moments, catching our breath and just soaking in the feeling of being out in such a fantastic place having soooo much "fun". But dang... I am really starting to wear out! Roger is ready so he takes off again. I wait a bit to let him get ahead of me. Then it's time to see if I can get moving again. Deep breath... Focus on the line... Ease on the power... Rock back and forth because ANOTHER rock has rolled in front of my back tire! Fortunately, just rocking back and forth a bit allows me to get up just enough speed to roll over the rock so I don't have to repeat the same process as I did on the first hill climb. I manage to get on around the side of the hill and make it to the top, where we decided to take another break, which are coming much more often and lasting a bit longer now than earlier in the day.
Looking back down from the top - it turns hard right and goes down right where it vanishes between the trees
I tell Roger that I can feel my cheeks, the tip of my nose, and my arms tingling. I've experienced that feeling before in Colorado at higher altitudes. We decide to just sit for a while. There is no need to rush and get ourselves killed, especially way out here where it would be VERY difficult for someone to retrieve one of us if we were unable to ride out. ATVs would not be able to get in here. I would later ask a ranger about this and was told they would actually hike in with a stretcher, carry you out until they could get you to a point where either an ATV or helicopter could be used. That's NOT a bill I want to pay... So we rest, and I focus on deep and slow breathing until the tingling goes away in a few more minutes. We've got to be getting close...!!
The trail continues up from where we are resting. We are REALLY hoping it peaks soon and the rest of the trail will be down hill. We're both getting pretty tired. Roger fires up his bike and starts up the trail. I thumb the starter and...
Nothing...
I try again... I hear the starter gear click against the crank... Nothing...
All this starting and stopping, low speed riding, the radiator cooling fan kicking on and off, and my battery seems to have gone dead. Now, if I were on the KLR, I'd be in a real pickle... Trying to push start it going up hill would be impossible and the only alternative would be to attempt a bump start going DOWN the hill we just came up, riding ALL THE WAY to the other side of the wash, turning around and having to do it all over again All that with Roger already up the trail and out of site... Right, so I am thrilled that the KTM has a kick start The only problem is I'm in a tight spot with regard to being able to get the kick stand down so I can really get up on the lever and give it a good kick. I decide to just put out the lever and try to kick it while sitting. It's a bit awkward, but on the first attempt the bike kind of sputters. The second try I push just a little bit harder... and it fires!! Thank you!! Satisfied the bike is going to keep running, I start up the trail after Roger.
I reach the high point of the trail and it turns to the Southeast, dropping down into another small pass. Here's what I see...
A stick forest... and Roger working his way down what looks like a steep trail section
Really strange how the trees have all just been "topped", leaving nothing but the trunks standing - not really something I would expect as the result of a fire, but rather from a tornado... but not over such a wide area!?
Now we are back to rocky with lots of downed trees/branches...
At first it looks like the trail might keep going on up the next hill, but I saw Roger take a left turn somewhere down there.
So I head on down the trail to see what I might find. And what I find is a section so washed out, rough, steep, and nasty that Roger has decided to get off his bike and walk it down! I don't think I have EVER seen him do that and we've ridden some pretty nasty stuff.
You can just see his helmet there left of center about to vanish behind the dense undergrowth.
We haven't seen much that makes us think anyone has been back here in a long time. With all the downed trees everywhere I am REALLY worried that we might come upon one that we can't get over or around... because... that would mean turning around... If I really really HAD TO, I am sure I could ride all the way back, but the thought of it makes me kind of numb... Roger disappears down the hill. I pause for a moment, asking myself if I am having fun...? In moments like these, it's hard to say. I've been in enough moments like these to know that if I get through it, I will look back on it and think it was a great time!! If I get through it... I like to call this "retroactive fun". It might suck in the moment, but when you look back on it retroactively, it becomes fun after the fact. Sometimes it's later that night over dinner when this happens and we're all telling stories about the days ride... and sometimes it is when the bruising and swelling go away or a cast finally comes off
Down I go...
If you look carefully at the above picture, you'll see a downed tree right next that tall tree where the trail turns left and disappears. That is my first objective. Get there, use it to stop and prop myself up, scan ahead and decide on the next course of action. Getting to the tree is not too bad. Stopping is dicey as the front is already trying to slide a bit and the back is sliding. I manage to get the bike over, wobble a bit and catch it, then plant my right foot on the trunk and come to a nice complete stop.
What I see below makes me stay stopped for a few minutes to gather my strength and my breath. It gets steeper. Now I see why Roger was off the bike and walking it. The trail has that familiar V shape, but in the bottom of the V it is trenched, about the width of a tire, and maybe 6-10 inches deep. Moreover, there are a series of steps or ledges. It looks like water collects in the narrow trenches, flows over the ledge and forms the next trench, filling it and continuing down the side of the mountain. Of course there are assorted scattered rocks and branches along the way as well.
I decide to stay on the bike. Rather than try to ride the side of the V and risking an uncontrolled slide into the trench, I just point right into it and GO. The trail is narrow enough now and the sides high enough that I can put both feet out, place them at the top of the sides, and hold the bike upright. That's great for side to side, but it doesn't help a whole lot with keeping me from trucking right on down the hill. Fortunately, I can use each ledge as a "speed bump", knocking off enough speed before the harsh drop off the ledge into the next trench, and repeating until I get most of the way down. Almost to the bottom, there is a BIG tree down across the trail. I can see Roger on the far side and he's waving/pointing for me to go around it. A quick glance and I can see where Roger had to go off the trail a few yards to clear the base of the trunk. It's nasty looking and I can see where his rear tire was sliding and kicking out some dirt as he got on the gas. I turn and follow his track, have a pretty good wobble as I try to make the sharp turn toward the trail while on a down slope, and then make my way back to the trail.
I join Roger on the trail. He's looking like I feel. I think we're both ready for the fun to be over. We haven't had any lunch. Granola bars and peanut butter crackers only last so long... But we HAVE to be getting close to the end of the trail!!
We make our way down the rest of the hill without too much trouble. The trail goes back into some woods, the kind where the trees have tops on them, and the shade is welcome. I approach the crest of a slight hill and can see that the trail turns hard right and drops on down the hill. Roger is already out of sight. I approach the turn and there is a BIG pine tree RIGHT in the inside corner. I move a bit wide to make sure my bars clear it and the next thing I know the bike is going down!! It just slides right out from under me. I've got next to no speed at all, so I just step off and to the side. But now it is pointing down hill and the wrong direction.
I move over to lift the bike and then I see the problem. There is a small tree trunk, maybe 2" in diameter, laying along the outside edge of the turn. It has no bark at all on it. I was braking and trying to turn right when the tire hit that trunk. I was looking through the turn and down the hill. I never saw it. Without the bark on it, it is super smooth and slick. I can see the rubber marks on the wood where the tire slid. I get the bike picked up, but like I said, the front end is pointing down hill and about 120 degrees from the direction of the trail. I try pulling it backward up on to the trail... Not happening. Well... time to just drag the thing. I lay it over to the right at about a 45 degree angle, letting it rest on the hip/thigh of my left leg. The big tree is close enough that I can brace against it with the right side of my body, pulling against it and the bike so that I can pull the bike toward the big tree and back onto the trail. It is at this point where I really just close my eyes and PULL!!! The KTM is light compared to the KLR, but it is still a couple hundred pounds... I manage to get it where I want it, get it stood back upright, and get on it. At that point, all I can do is just sit there. My heart is POUNDING! I am breathing HARD. I am ready for this to be OVER!!
CLICK!
Awww dang!!
The battery is dead again!
CLICK!
CLICK!
Hmmm... Guess I'll have to kick start it again...
There is only one problem... I am leaning up against a tree on my right side and the trail slopes away fairly steep on the left side, so there is no way to get a foot down or to put the bike on its kickstand. Nor do I have the energy to drag it around any more to get it where I might be able to put it on the kickstand. I try kicking from the seated position again, but without at least being able to get my left foot on the ground, it is pointless. I stop for a moment just to laugh at the absurdity of the moment.
I spot Roger down through the woods standing at what appears to be the end of the trail at the bottom of a good steep hill. He's looking up to see what is going on with me and the bike. Realizing I am FINALLY near the end, I pull in the clutch, pop into neutral and just give the bike a hard shove. I start down the hill, slowly at first and then start picking up some speed. I ease on the back brake a bit and a little on the front to keep things from getting out of hand. I don't want to make the mistake of prematurely thinking I made it only to wipe out in the last thirty feet after surviving all the stuff before this point. I soon reach the bottom and roll out into some shade next to Roger's bike. As I go to dismount, I realize just how tired I am as I feel like all my energy has been completely drained. Standing next to the bike removing my helmet and jacket, I realize my hands are shaking. Time for a good break!
The trail goes between the two big trees behind the bikes, then turns hard right up the hill above Roger's head
Well... We did it! We're still in one piece. There's no serious damage to either bike. We both decide it's just time to roll back up the Sunspot highway and call it a day... I can now say I have ridden the entire Rim Trail and survived it. I can't wait to do it again! Never mind the fact that I have so little energy right now I can hardly walk in a straight line
We finally muster up enough energy to get serious about riding back.
CLICK!
Well, I thought I might get lucky
I try kick starting the bike, but the ground is pretty soft and the kick stand starts sinking into the ground before I can get the bike fired. There is a nice big gentle hill rolling down from where I am parked to the shoulder of the highway. Roger suggests I just bump start it using the hill. Sounds good. I pop it into second gear, coast down the hill and dump the clutch... VROOM!!
Sweet!
I keep it revving, Roger joins me, and we head North. Now... I may be tired and I might think I have had enough riding for one day... BUT... and there is always a BUT... The Sunspot Highway just seems to pump energy right back into me. Once we get rolling and hit a few corners, it's like I just did a shot of some kind of energy drink or something. The combination of the road, the bike, the beautiful day, the cool breeze, the fact that it won't be getting any harder between here and town... Well... It just feels great!!
A few miles down the road I notice that the fairing on the right side of my gas tank is kind of flapping in the wind... Hmmm... I hold it with my right knee and keep it from flapping, but that is not real comfy and I don't want to do it for the next twenty miles or so. I pull over at a roadside parking spot for the trail head of a different trail and have a look. Apparently, that drop on the really steep hill, where I dumped it right after picking it up, did a number on it. The initial hit on the right side pulled the screw holding the fairing to the gas tank right through the plastic tab on the backside of the fairing. A zip tie or two and it is good as new!
We cruise on back to town, reach the hotel, take off the gear, and have a well earned beer!! Thank goodness tomorrow is a big bike day. I don't think I could do two days like today back to back. Like the high from an energy drink, my high from the Sunspot Highway faded almost as soon as it was over We go grab dinner and call it an another early day. I spend part of the evening looking over the maps, checking the trail guide book, and thinking about where we might go tomorrow...
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