The Big Bend area, historically, has always had some form of human occupation and influence. Some of it not good but many have figured out how to survive in that environment. Sometime in the last century human governors decided that humans didn't belong there so the place was returned to it's "nature" state and human interaction limited. This is itself unnatural.
I am the first person to decry the early trend of the US National Park Service to remove humans, both American and Native American, from lands being designated for 'wilderness', along with all signs of human habitation. As if it was untouched innocent and naive wildness. And then build paved roads, lines of utility poles, waste water treatment centers, giant water catchment and piping systems in the the springs, lodge resorts, staff housing, massive visitor centers and plush restaurant with big 'gift' souvenir shops.
True 'wilderness' on most of the continent died a prolonged death a few hundred years ago. There may be a few places remaining that have not felt human footprint, but it still is subject to human intervention because we can change the land surface, air and climate through global processes. All landscapes are intricately connected; events and changes outside a wilderness affects what happens inside. 'Wilderness' is a state of mind.
The most hypocritical example is when the federal agencies literally forced removal of a few small remnant Native American families off land in the far west designated public and denied them the right to hunt and fish on their traditional home lands. Then they employ them at minimal wages to work in the concessions that they build in these places that were 'returned to wilderness.' While still denying them access to hunt and fish.
The history of Big Bend National Park is long and convoluted, with well-meaning wealthy Texas tycoons, several individuals and public officials lobbying to form a public park and preserve as early as the mid 1920's. Also, the idea of an international park along the nation's southern borders began to incubate in the late 1920's. The state of Texas hatched a long-term agreement with the US Park Service. The state would acquire and begin to develop the land with help from US agencies, especially the Civilian Conservation Corp, in the early 1930's. In 1933, Texas state legislature established Texas Canyons State Park (later that year, changed to Big Bend State Park). Federal legislation was introduced in 1935 for the acquisition of the land as a national park. The State of Texas deeded the land that it had acquired to the US National Park Service in 1944 and it was then designated as Big Bend National Park.
Public runs head-long into private ownership, and both have strong merits, and demerits. But can the land be both? Realize that several thousand (150K) acres here in southern Big Bend were already state public land, and additional thousands of acres had been forfeited to the state. Even several of the local BB residents concurred, and even supported the idea (such as Sam Nail from the Nail ranch in the park, and a few other local ranchers who promised various parcels of land), that the best steward of this land was in the public trust for all the people to enjoy. Some parted with their land holdings willingly, some with relief mixed with remorse, and others with opposition. You have to know the history here to understand the complexity.
People were not technically 'forced' off their properties in the areas proposed for park inclusion. They were offered a settlement for their properties, and most accepted it with a grain of remorse, others with a sigh of relief. These offers came during and after the Depression and several years of drought and struggling. Many locals had already left their land and moved elsewhere because they could no longer eek out a subsistence living here. And that is all that it was here: subsistence, barely feeding themselves and their livestock, if they had any.
For a quick synopsis of the history of human occupation here, the only individuals that made it rich here, or got ahead, were those that owned the mercury mines, and they usually were absentee land owners living in northern major cities. In good years, the local ranchers made enough to buy more land from those that had thrown in the towel and moved on.
Most Mexican families and even a few American families made a living from the floodplains of the Rio Grande (or, depending on which side of the river you came from, the Rio del Norte) and the confluence of the river with Terlingua Creek. More than sixty years ago, the river, even Terlingua Creek, always always ran with water. Cottonwoods were many and lush along the river and creek edges, and the floodplains were farmed with vegetables, fruit, even cotton and wheat. These crops fed families and neighbors, miners and mining towns, even the military encampments (several were here temporarily). Markets thrived freely on both sides.
But the mines and mining towns were hungry monsters that had to be fed: with wood from the creek and river cottonwoods and others off the mountains to build mining structures and fuel the furnaces. Over two thousand miners and their families had to be fed; establishing gardens in hard limestone and caliche is most often unrewarding. Increasing populations of livestock had to eat, even by cutting grasses from the top of the Chisos and hauling down on mules.
The demand on the limited local resources was too high for the existing human and animal population density. A hundred years later the trees have not regrown, the grasses are sparse, and the river and creeks are typically dry most of the year from local and far-off point-of-use (El Paso, New Mexico, Juarez, etc) demand. The local resources began to crash before the mercury mining market did. All that was left after the mines were traders, transients, and ranchers; the mines were abandoned and became ghost towns.
This area is an unreliable pasture for raising livestock. Even at the O2 Ranch, thousands of acres and barely 20 miles south of Alpine, the stocking rate for a cow/calf unit was 100+ acres. That rate is higher further south, including land that is now in the BBNP. The Chihuahuan desert mesquite/creosote and scrub vegetation type has moved further north replacing the trees and grasses that were once more common even here in southern Big Bend. Some species have disappeared or moved to higher altitudes and latitudes. Change happens abruptly and slowly here, unlike in the north country where the climate and land are much kinder.
A few land holders within the proposed national park boundaries refused settlement offers of acquisition, both by the state and federal government. Howard Perry (of the Chisos Mining Co.) and Wayne Cartledge bought a large tract of land in 1918 near Santa Helena (both town and canyon; see footnote 1.), where Cartledge and son farmed cotton and established a trading post: La Harmonia Company (original trading post was near Cottonwood Campground). In 1919, the federal government leased some of that land to establish a military outpost in response to the border unrest and eventually built a group of structures; what is today known as Castolon.
When the war in Europe erupted, troops were reassigned and the outpost was abandoned in 1920. Cartledge bought the structures from the federal govt, moved the trading post into the camp barracks and La Harmonia Trading Post was re-established there. When Cartledge applied for a post office permit, he named it 'Castolon'; the post office officially closed in 1954. (Names have a habit of changing here like musical chairs and you will often find several places and structures with the same name(s)
In 1961, the National Park Service acquired the La Harmonia Company holdings and began operating the store as a concession store, the officers quarters are now homes for rangers and other personnel.
Another large section within the park boundaries remained under private ownership: Rosillos Ranch. The Harte Ranch section of the North Rosillos Mountains, was added to the park in 1987. The Harte's (property owners), donated the 67,000 acre ranch to the Texas Nature Conservancy in 1985 with the understanding that it would eventually become part of the park. And it now is.
However, the 25,000 acre Pitcock Rosillos Mountain Ranch within the legislated boundaries is still privately owned. And for
sale .
Footnote:
1. The TX town of Santa Helena was renamed to 'Castolon' in 1914. The tiny town of Santa Helena, Mexico, remains today. Due to several factors -both local and global- that jeopardized continued success of La Harmonia Company, including the trading post, it struggled through the years of drought and depression with the aid of federal subsidies. The last harvest of cotton was in 1942, when the elder Cartledge sold most of his holdings, including the cotton gin near the river, and turned management of the post over to his son.
The nature of man is what philosophers have debated for all of time. Humans will never figure it out, on their own.
We are biologically part of nature. But we humans complicate things in a big way. (don't get me started....
Thanks for the kind words.