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Three TWT Bike Nights in a row then South Dakota...

09/02/2015 – Wednesday
From: Deadwood, SD
To: Deadwood, SD
Miles: 282

I just wish I would have slept better than I did last night. I was ‘hoping’ for a good night but somehow again I was restless. At some point during the night or very early morning a very big wind came up, stuck around a few minutes then was gone. Weird. Beautiful skies with no threat of rain either. And the humidity was gone as the tents/rain flys and ground clothes as well as the bikes were dry as a bone.

Good morning Deadwood SD! Our view from the campsite
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We geared up and headed fifteen or so miles over to Spearfish under very high clouds and 67*F. It was wonderful in just the mesh gear and no liner. We found a local Perkins (again) and pretty much ordered the same items again. When you find something you like you tend to stick with it… :eat:
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Over breakfast we decided we would head for Belle Fourche SD to the geographic center of the entire 50 states this time. If you recall, the last “center of the US” we visited was in Lebanon KS and it was only for the lower 48. When Alaska and Hawaii were added around 1959, the geographic center now moved North and West from Lebanon KS. So it just seemed reasonable to go there next so we all headed North on 85.

We arrived in Belle Fourche and had to stop to figure out just where the center marker was. While waiting, I couldn’t pass up a grain elevator shot as they were sooooo prevalent in the area
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Again, Mr. Technology Frank pulled out his trusty iPhone and realized we were about a quarter mile South of the place. :doh: So off we went and found this:
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And out back, there it was – the geographic center of the 50 United States
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Complete with little marker and all in SW South Dakota. We finally made it to both!
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Well, not so fast Kemosabe….. Belle Fourche is ‘sort of’ like Deadwood in the fact that “hey – let’s get people to come here and tell them this is the geographic center of the United States/50 states”. The lady in the little museum was more than up front about where the “real” US Geologic Marker was when asked. She said “oh, it’s not that far – about 14 miles North, then 8 miles West on Old Hwy 85 which is a gravel road. Look for a flag in the middle of a field across from a big barn on the left”. Hmmmm….. Maybe 22 miles NorthNorthWest and a third of it gravel? I looked at Bill and said “Hey, we’re THIS CLOSE. We’d kick ourselves for NOT going and when will we ever be back here again”? That’s all it took. Frank and Vince on the other hand said they were good with just heading West on 34 to 24 out of Belle Fourche to Devils Tower and there they would wait for us.

OK, we’ve got a plan. Bill and I will head to the “real” center and Vince and Frank will head to Devils Tower where we will meet up.

So Vince and Frank head West and Bill and I head North. We went about 14 miles and ‘thought’ we had the right road so turned West and there were some ranchers with heavy equipment right there. We asked them if this was the right road and we were still short a mile or two, so we kept going North and found Old Hwy 85 and the turnoff.
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When we made the turn West down that long ugly gravel road, Bill said “you’ll do fine”. OK, here we go street tires and all on the big GS.
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I have to admit, running 40-45mph behind Bill was a bit unnerving at times, especially when I was in one of the tire tracks from the trucks and began to drift over the ‘hump’ into the next tire track. Just relax, let the bike do what it wants is all I’ve heard. Well, it worked. I didn’t fall and I even had a Plan-B if on-coming traffic was approaching. I’d slow to a crawl and duck-walk myself back over the hump!

We ran the eight miles West of gravel and could see the big barn on the left in the distance and the flag off to our right with a pile of rocks. There’s actually two markers there. One is unofficial and in what I presume to be the right of way between the fence lines and the true/actual one is about 75 yards out in a field behind a fence and bright red gate on private property.
Here’s the stone marker ad-hoc point in the ROW
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And here’s the one inside the fence line on private property. THIS is the REAL one, not the “Deadwood” one. Lol
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With a secondary one not five feet away at the base of the tattered flag
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To give you a sense of scale as to being in the middle of nowhere South Dakota, that’s Bill on the far right
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So now I can say I’ve been to the “true” center of the lower 48 states as well as the “true” center of all 50 states. And of those 50, I’ve visited all 50, 49 by motorcycle. That’s a pretty cool accomplishment in my book. When I get back to Hawaii I’m renting a scooter to ride just so I can say I’ve now ridden in all 50 states.

As we were gearing up to head back, we noticed about half a mile down from us a one acre high fenced area full of old farm equipment. Our guess based on what we learned yesterday is that is yet another old Minuteman missile silo facility. It fit the size, dimensions, distance off the road and other attributes the park ranger mentioned. We had to chuckle on that one.

Then, about six miles back towards the main highway we saw yet another facility which really matched the others. But after careful observation we concluded it was more of a communications type facility than a silo. Same USAF No Trespassing signs so it’s ‘somehow’ related to defense and missiles is our guess
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Running back down to Belle Fourche I had to stop for this shot. We all know it’s a snow fence to stop drifting/blowing snow. But I’m guessing there’s some artist in Austin going “Hey – I can make an art exhibit out of old shipping pallets and be famous down here. They’re doing it in South Dakota”. LOL
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So Bill and I run back down to Belle Fourche then take the same 34 to 24 (which coincidentally put us in Wyoming) and run it over to Devils Tower where we met up with Frank and Vince who were sitting on a covered outside porch enjoying the shade, Monster Energy Drink and Ice Cream. We pulled up and geared down and talked about the little adventure to the center of the US, then talked about going into the park for a picture. Vince said “Hey – just walk out back and take your shot”. OK, so I walked out back and wow. What a view and it was free. Turns out the place we stopped at was the KOA convenience store with the campground right next door. They had a wonderful viewing area from which to shoot the tower. And besides, we really didn’t want to pay an entry fee to go to the base of this thing. We knew it was an igneous rock formation (volcanic in composition) and that’s about all we needed to know.
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After a bit, the temp was HOT and all we wanted to do was get rolling again to cool off. So we had heard from Jamie (the waitress at Custer State Park) that Spearfish Canyon was a wonderful road to ride that puts us out in Lead (pronounced Leed) all of which is in the Black Hills National Forest. So back to Spearfish it was, then South on 14A and the canyon then picked up 85 again into Lead.

The canyon was absolutely incredible riding. Topping out about 6400’ in elevation, it was nice and cool and the roads as twisty as you can imagine. Big beautiful pine trees lining wonderfully maintained roads and we were having a blast. Once in Lead, we took 385 South a bit to a little burger joint recommended by Jamie called The Sugar Shack. It was worth the little detour.

The Sugar Shack
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IF you hit this place, you have to have the Sugar Burger. The rest of the offerings looked just as amazing too
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Burp.
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While waiting for our food, there was some pretty nice scenery to just take in as well…..
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This was next door, the Easy Glider which I suppose was a take-off of Easy Rider?
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And across the street was another one of those attempts to conceal a cell phone tower
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Waiting on the food to arrive, which did not disappoint
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After the monster lunch we were stuffed. Literally. It was a HUGE burger patty most probably hand pressed and cooked on a flat iron griddle cook top. I’m guessing that’s how the onions and peppers were done too, in all that wonderful greasy goodness. :eat:

We also learned the place is for sale. I guessed $600k and it is for sale for $579 if I remember correctly. According to Jamie, it goes up for sale every year and they advertise $500k in annual sales. :ponder: Man, the winters I bet are brutal.

At this point we were only 20 minutes out of Deadwood so it was time to head back to camp. Approaching the city limits we again for like the fourth or fifth time had to navigate this one little wet messy gravel section. We’re getting pretty good at it by now. All of us……
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So we make it into town, yet on the way out this morning I saw the Tatonka entrance and thought that would be a good place to go visit. Story goes that Kevin Costner had an idea for a resort/casino in Deadwood called Tatonka which coincidentally was the Indian word he kept using in one of his movies Dances With Wolves. He had commissioned an artist to create a series of bronze Tatonka (or Bison) statues to be placed around the property. When the project went belly up, the artist sued Costner because his artwork could not be displayed. In the settlement, Costner built an Indian memorial where the artwork could be displayed and called it Tatonka. Anyway, we arrived just as the gates were closed and Bill and Frank ran IN the OUT side while I at least grabbed a shot or two.
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A few minutes later Bill and Frank come screaming back down the hill and I ask “how’d it go”? Bills reply was “Hey, they said if we don’t leave the property immediately the police were on their way”. Wow, I don’t think I’ve ever geared up that fast in my life. Then Bill breaks into that big old grin again and says something like “Hey, they were really cool and said they were just closing but to come back tomorrow”. Whew. I did NOT want to say I spent the night in the Deadwood jailhouse for trespassing. That's just a little bit more "adventure" than I had planned for.

We decided to make our way back to camp to figure out our next move and talk about dinner. Since we ate a very late lunch that was awesome and more than filling, we all agreed dinner tonight would be on the ‘light’ side. So the discussion centered around having an Orange Julius :-) for dinner.

Early evening on our last night at the Deadwood KOA
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With that decision made, we hopped back on the bikes and headed into town. First stop was in front of the Franklin Hotel. If you recall, there’s a shot of the headstone of the Franklin clan posted earlier. This is in front of the hotel:
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And here’s the Franklin Hotel:
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We walked just a few blocks to find our OJ
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…where we each ordered one and called it “dinner”.
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So with ‘dinner’ finished, we learned yet another ‘street action play’ was about to happen shortly. This time the capture of Jack McCall who is the guy who shot Bill Hickock. While the ‘actors’ were gathering, I wandered over to the sheriff/judge who was accompanied by Clamity Jane and chatted them up…….

Me: So Clamity, you really enjoy this, don’t you?
Jane: (in a twangy drawl) Wellll, yessss-sirrrr I dooooooo
Me: OK, I have a question
Jane: Shoot
Me: I hear you are really NOT buried up on the hill next to Bill. Is that true?
Jane: Welllll howwww cannnn I beeeee buried if’n I’m a stand’n right here?
Me: Seriously, we heard you and Bill might actually be someplace else
Jane: I’m a stand’n right here mister
Me: No, seriously, from a historical perspective, are you and Bill side by side on the hill?
This is when the sheriff/judge looks at her and smiles….
Jane: (in a normal voice) Yes, we are both buried up on the hill side by side. We are not in a crypt someplace else.
Me: Thank you. You guys really enjoy what you do here, right?
Jane: I LOVE what I do here.
Me: Thanks. Have a great evening.

The sheriff/judge and Jane
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Jack McCall just shot Bill Hickock
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…and is quickly apprehended
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…and led away
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So with that little ‘show’ over, the sheriff/judge barked at the crowd to all move up the street to the next location for the ‘trial’. A eating/drinking establishment no less. We opted to just people watch and see what happened next. This guy was pretty typical for the area
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And what better way than to close out Deadwood with the street sign before heading back to camp
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Before leaving Deadwood, Bill and I ducked into a casino just to say we each gambled in Deadwood South Dakota. Not being a gambler I just followed his lead and he put five bucks on a red diamond and I put five bucks on a black diamond. One of us was going to win and one was going to lose. As in double our money. Bill won, I lost. But hey – I can say I gambled in Deadwood now!

We wound our way back to the parking lot, geared up and headed to camp. Bill had this great idea to try and shoot some night stars since we had seen the space station go overhead already. We figured in 22 minutes we’d see it again. So with that, we grabbed the cameras and tripods and Vince scouted a dark spot for us close to the tents that didn’t have any light pollution and we grabbed a few. I sort of liked this one as there is a shooting star in the middle left of the stars by the trees and you can clearly see the Milky Way band
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And another shooting star right of center in this one
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There's NO WAY I could have figured out how to do these shots without Bills help. He's the master at the night and light painting stuff.....

Our ‘new’ neighbors came in sometime during the late afternoon. A couple from Manitoba with a young son. We all got the impression that mom did not want any part of this ‘camping’ experience and it was all father/son time. We based that on her barking, pointing and just how big that tent was for three people as well as wondering how in the world they ever got the king sized air mattress inside. Yeah, it was that big.

The showers were again AWESOME and it wasn’t long before we were all snoozing for the night.

Stay tuned as tomorrow brings some carved rocks and stuff. :deal:


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Good Stuff Scott! Thanks for taking the time and energy to put this together. Keep it coming!

I desperately want to shoot the milky way....
 
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Good Stuff Scott! Thanks for taking the time and energy to put this together. Keep it coming!



I desperately want to shoot the milky way....



Thx Duke.

Bill is the "Master" at this night shooting stuff..... Some tips to try

1. Get out of town away from light pollution

2. ISO2000

3. Use LiveView to pick a spot in the distance to MANUALLY focus on and don't touch it after that

4. Use f/2.8 to f/4

5. Limit exposure to 20 seconds to keep star movement/blur to a minimum

6. If you can, put a foreground element in the shot and gently 'light paint' it



Some observations

1. Just because it's dark does not mean the camera won't pick up cool stuff

2. Wind will affect blur in trees/leaves in either a good, bad or neutral way

3. If windy, hold the camera strap from flopping around

4. STURDY tripod is a must

5. LiveView eats battery life but the D4s is really good with it



Wow!

Great read and pics Scott!

What an a experience you had!



Thanks!

Stay tuned as there's more coming! :photo:





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This ride report is as good as they get, especially since I've never been to that part of the U.S. I know it takes a lot of time and effort to document rides with pictures but together they make a great read. Your report includes a lot of motorcycle touring detail that we can identify with. That really enhances my enjoyment when reading. Thanks.
 
09/03/2015 – Thursday
From: Deadwood, SD
To: Custer State Park, SD
Miles: 170

Looks like we’re in for a real treat today….. Some rock carvings and back to Custer State Park!

The KOA was a bit on the ‘dew’ side this morning again when we got up and broke camp. Nothing like putting up wet tents and flys to get you in a good mood. The temp was 56*F which actually required the jacket liner for me to just function packing today. Our ‘family’ from Manitoba in the big camp site was still in the rack and that monster King Sized air mattress was still pushing out the end of the tent. We all had to chuckle on that one.

We departed the KOA and headed to Hickocks for breakfast which was a recommendation on the outside of town. Coincidentally it was also where the wet gravel construction zone was so here we go one more time to get through it. Our waitperson was delightful…. Fairly young with a child and came from Arizona. We surmised to leave a bad relationship as when we asked why she picked Deadwood SD, she said “that’s where the dart landed”. She said winters were tough having only been through one now, but it was home. She got nice tips from all of us that morning.

From there, we managed the wet gravel construction for the last time and parked in the Family Dollar parking lot so I could run in and see if they had lithium ion batteries for my SPOT. Now sitting at 20 “half-days”, I was getting a bit concerned it might give up on the way back home. Nope. None in the store so we’ll just have to “run with what we brung” as the saying goes.

We wandered next door to Greers Engineering, a cool retro building with a BUNCH of Indian motorcycles and associated gear inside. We spent quite a bit of time just poking around in there, asking questions and such. Originally, the company was called “Indian Motocycles” then later changed to “Indian Motorcycles”. That was interesting and what prompted the question was I saw an embroidered chair and thought it was miss-spelled. It wasn’t. lol I think a few shirts were purchased and it was time to head out.

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When we got to the bikes, apparently the single lone employee I had earlier asked about the batteries did not like the fact that we (four motorcycles) took two parking spots of the probably 50 in front of their facility and left us each a note. Yeah, well next time I’m through Deadwood SD I’ll remember your little note on the front of my motorcycle. Lemme see, Family Dollar, Dollar Tree….. there’s other options out there too from a customer service perspective.

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Just had to chuckle at the humor here while waiting for construction traffic to clear
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As we headed South out of Deadwood, we slowed down at Trevno’s Leathers.
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We had passed it several times now and this was our last chance stop to get Frank those fancy chaps we’ve been egging him on about the whole trip. We spent probably an hour in that store as the quality of merchandise was incredible. They do REALLY NICE work. But alas, no chaps for Frank this time. But Vince wound up purchasing a really nice black leather jacket that was going to be shipped home for him. While the others were inside looking at the leather stuff, I took some time to poke around the building and came across the following…..

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We then headed South back towards Hill City then over to the Crazy Horse monument. Wow. They have a LOT of work to do still but I have to say it’s going to be impressive when it gets done. I learned there is zero public funding for this project – it’s all donations and entrance fees/merchandise sales. Here’s a few shots from the monument/park area.

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On the smoke stack of an old boring machine….
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Funny story….. some Germans were pointing to the sky and saying “Eagle” when in fact they were pointing to a buzzard, ie: Turkey Vulture. I tried to explain it was NOT an eagle, but a road-trash-eating bird. I think about all they understood was some Spanish in that it had a ‘rojo” head and “negro” body with a “1.5 meter” wingspan in my animated and pointing fashion. “Ya – Ya” they said with a smile.

We left Crazy Horse and wound back on 87 and the Needles Highway. Man this is a pretty road and those rock formations I could just stop and try to shoot them all day and night long.

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That brought us back into Custer State park where we decided we’d just go find the Blue Bell area one more time and stay the night there. We did make a swing by Sylvan Lake which was beautiful and I kick myself for not taking a pic of the lake and a wonderful rock formation with it’s reflection on glass-smooth water.

We passed the same herd of goats that had blocked the tunnel a few days prior and I finally screwed up the courage to shoot some bison pics. I have to be honest….. When you are on a motorcycle and they are on the shoulder or even 30 yards away – they are big and intimidating creatures. So my shooting was somewhat limited by my desire to remain intact if possible.

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We talked with the temporary Camp Master this time that was cleaning the facilities and she was delightful as well. She pointed out some good-sized camp sites and made some recommendations on the best ones. She also said “Hey – do you know Lisa”? We all looked at one another with confused looks and she said something that triggered me to say “the camper cat lady”? YES! The Camp Master said she hit a buffalo last night drunk, as well as was harassing a lot of the campers while drunk so they moved her to a cabin and hopefully she wouldn’t bother us. And if she did, just let a ranger know asap. So she WAS stoned or drunk the morning a few days ago she chatted us up at breakfast which we thought was weird.

We then setup camp…
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…and had a late lunch, then headed out to Mt. Rushmore via the “Wildlife Loop” of which I think was called “csp rd 1” (or Custer State Park Road 1) which then intersected 16A to Mt. Rushmore. Along the way we saw bison, antelope, burrows, horses and had another little tunnel or two to pass through.

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“thou shalt not cross thy path….”
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We also had our only encounter with a real jerk on the trip. As we were approaching a herd of bison and a line of maybe six cars I wanted to get a shot of the bison. Bill said “Hop on the back and we’ll go shoot them with the cars for blocking us”. OK! So I set the camera to 11fps, spot metering, continuous moving focus mode and a higher shutter speed and we were off. I fired off a eleventy-bazillion shots between the cars which were PERFECT blocks for us on the motorcycle. All was good when we got to the front of the parked line of cars so we made our turn to go back and meet up with the rest of the group and get me back on my bike. As we were doing so, a white CJ5 with two kids who couldn’t have been 20 years old started heading right for us. We continued to move to the shoulder and he kept pointing and heading to us. We must have missed each other by inches in the end and there is no doubt it was deliberate. Bill and I have NO idea what set this kid off. Maybe he doesn’t like tourists? I dunno…..

Anyway, we got back to the bikes and continued on to Mt. Rushmore. The obligatory ‘shot through the tunnel’
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And Frank had a brilliant idea – put a quarter in one of those binocular things and stick the iPhone camera lens up to it. Doh!
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Parking was a breeze and we all go the shots we think we wanted/needed.
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Now THAT is an impressive rock carving. I had been there maybe 45 years ago and didn’t recall any of the support structure in place back then. I think it was a simple rock wall in an arch you stood behind. Now? Wow, full polished granite walkways, towers with all 50 state flags, souvenir shops, food places and parking garages. Mt. Rushmore had most certainly grown up.

And who would have thought Thomas Jefferson is credited as having the first ice cream recipe in the US?
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While staring at Mr Rushmore, I saw a gal struggling to do a ‘selfie’ with her iPhone of her and the carving but the sun was not cooperating. So I tried my iPhone as well and yeah, the sun was just in a crappy place to pull it off. So I offered to just take her pic with the carving behind her. She was grateful and said it was for her friend and “needed to have this shirt logo in the picture”. MMmmmm, ok. That begged the question – why? Turns out her name is Laura and she’s the executive director for a sustainable food center and she’s moving from the DC area to Washington or Oregon. The logo on the shirt is her friends company that makes bitters for bars around the country and is based in Austin. Small world. I got some contact information so I’ll have to look her friend up. I hope the picture turned out well enough for her.

Here’s Laura and that shirt pic… lol
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After Mt. Rushmore, we headed back to Custer State Park the 32 miles (11 as the crow flies) by Center Lake road which was again breathtaking. And again, we saw plenty of deer as well as two GIGANTIC buffalo just walking down the road like nothing mattered. These were the size of Pinto’s they were that big. And no, I wasn’t about to stop for THAT shot. Man they were big.

Running back through the park we passed a little secluded lake that caught both Bill’s and my attention. So Bill whips off into the nearest little turn-out and we all follow in behind him. That’s when I found out that Harley’s also like to take slow dirt naps. No damage, but the Harley did get ‘sleepy’ in the transition from elevated road surface to lower gravel. We woke it back up and all was good and with that, Bill and I headed back to snag some shots of the little lake Vince “could care less about”.

The “I don’t care about the lake, lake” picture
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….that took this to get there ;-)
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We made our way back to camp and decided that lunch from earlier was still just sitting heavy and we weren’t that hungry. So we opted to see if Jamie was there, asked for her by name and sat out on the patio and each ordered their special bread pudding and vanilla ice cream. Man did that hit the spot. We talked up everywhere we had been and Jamie said we ‘had a good trip’ and she was happy to have helped us in that respect.

Oh, the bread pudding and ice cream for dinner
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Bill had secretly been scouting night shot locations so we waited until it was dark-ish and packed up the cameras and tripods and headed out. We told Vince and Frank we’d be no more than a couple hours at most and generally where we were headed. So Bill and I meandered off into the dark with impending lighting and possible storms on the horizon to try and shoot them. I got another primer in how to do this type of shot and just started firing away. Here’s a few I sort of liked for different reasons……

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The wind really started to pick up and we had cell service so we could check radar and we were going to get pounded. So with that, we hoofed it back to the bikes, loaded up and headed back to camp done for the night. Frank and Vince had just turned in, and Bill and I weren’t but 10 minutes behind them.

Oh, and the big storm fizzled out without so much as a drop of rain. Yay weather Gods because I noticed again more of the waterproof seam tape on my rain fly peeling off. Yep – it’s time for a new tent. But that will have to come later……

Tomorrow starts the journey home....


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Thx Duke.

Bill is the "Master" at this night shooting stuff.....

Might I say though, that you seem to be the master at shooting people. WITH THE CAMERA!

Seriously, you even make Bill look both good and like an interesting fellow. :rofl:

Makes me want to tag along on a trip, if for nothing more than the selfish idea of having really good pictures taken of me along the way.
 
09/04/2015 – Friday
From: Custer State Park, SD
To: Salina, KS
Miles: 637

Well, the time has come to start the journey back home. The trip so far has been wonderful with some great scenery, food and friendship. Bill, Vince and Frank have been wonderful travel companions.

Last night was basically zero sleep as I kept thinking that storm was going to pound us and I’m seeing more and more waterproof seam tape peeling off not only the fly but the inside tub of the tent now. As mentioned earlier, fourteen or so years is a bit long in the tooth for a tent these days so I need to start thinking about it’s replacement in the very near future.

The morning was gorgeous, no doubt about it.
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We broke camp and found ourselves yet again at the Blue Bell.
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Jamie wasn’t there, but crazy cat lady was and we did everything possible to not make eye contact. I think she ordered a beer with breakfast too.

After breakfast, it was time to head South…. ☹
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We meandered down through the park then through Windcave National Park on 385 down to Hot Springs again. Along the way in the park, none of us could believe what we saw at one of the scenic turnouts….. An almost picture perfect bison standing in the parking lot. Honestly, at first I thought it was a bison statue, but as I rode by, the tail moved! I still didn’t have the courage to get in front of it, thus the rear quartering away shot (and into the sun no less)
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We continued South on 385 through Nebraska then picked up 2 where the hills turned into rolling green fields. We followed the train tracks a really good portion of the trip home and noticed propane tanks spaced evenly at pairs of tracks. We finally figured out that was the power generation system to move the switches for side trains vs through trains. And with those trains, there hundreds upon hundreds of cars of coal headed for power generation plants somewhere. At one point I counted 130 coal cars in one string. Full cars headed South, empty cars headed back North.

When churning these kind of miles to just get home, there’s considerable ‘helmet time’ as I call it. I believe it was at this point I was starting to realize just how insignificant people really are in the ‘big picture’ of things. I mean, here we are on motorcycles maybe 1200 miles from home in the middle of nowhere USA and the surroundings have been here for millions of years and not changed much. We are in fact delicate creatures compared to Mother Nature. All we have in life is the little bit of time given us and there is always a Mean Time Between Failure (MTBF) of some critical component in our body that eventually WILL give out and that’s it. But Mother Nature just keeps churning on showing us just how insignificant we are in her eyes. Sure, great things have happened like inventions, advances in medicines, equipment, food production and such – but we are still insignificant in the big picture and seeing all this empty space, the pinnicles, the Badlands, the forests/streams and weather…. Well, we just don’t really matter.

Enough with the ‘heady thoughts’……

We pulled into some little town for fuel and it was hot. Way too hot already for this early in the morning. And it was at this point Frank had travelled almost 180 miles on this tank of fuel. We were all wondering with each little town we went through why there wasn’t any fuel stations. Well, the little towns were basically dried up little towns but we didn’t know that….. It was a good plan for the road, but the towns just couldn’t support fuel stops and boy did we need one for Frank.
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We had pretty much all agreed we would just blast for 150 miles, grab a snack/water and Gatorade then continue to blast as far as Salina, KS for the day.
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A nice cloud deck decided to play favor with us for a few hours keeping the direct sun off of us. Again, that Mother Nature thing smiled at us just as easily as she could have squashed us.

More miles. More fuel. More evidence we were in a farming community
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It was here where the Red Bulls began flowing
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….and three other riders showed up for fuel at the same time. They were from the next town over and only going a short distance for the day. We still had hundreds of miles to go.

We crossed down through an area called the Sandhills and the terrain was just that – it looked like a golf course with huge sand bunkers everywhere with whispy grass on top. Kansas was hot and flat with nothing but corn and cattle again. We stopped in Phillipsburg KS for fuel and hydration. Note the temperature just over the tank bag…. Confirmed by Bill and Vince on their bikes as well. Yep – 102*F
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Friday night football was in full swing in small town USA. The little convenience store was hopping with parents and kids coming in to get their big-gulps for the night too. Us? Convenience store Subway sammies and more Gatorade/Red Bull.

We picked up 183 down to I70 and just blasted East at that point. A strong South wind was horrid for us as we all looked like we were riding 15 degrees off center at times. And the windmill power generation farms sort of confirmed ‘why’ they were all constructed there at that point.

About 35 minutes out of Salina we had to make one final stop. Rachel (Bill’s wife) had been in contact with Bill and said there was a Motel6 right off the highway in Salina and it was cheap. After more Gatorade and fuel, we were off for Salina just down the road. This is what we had to our backs at 90*F and maybe half an hour to go….
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We made the 35 miles in short order and located the Motel6 right away. With discounts and such, we decided to get two rooms to just be comfortable for what little evening remained and hopefully be refreshed for the push tomorrow. We geared down and decided we were all abit peckish again. So off to the IHOP next door we went. Some food that took wayyyy too long to prepare now in our bellies, we wandered back to the motel, cleaned up and called it a night. Some 637 miles in the heat for the day, everyone was pretty much spent at that point.

Stay tuned...... I almost get killed twice tomorrow. :eek2:


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09/05/2015 - Saturday
From: Salina, KS
To: Austin, TX
Miles: 708

Let’s just get home safe today, OK? All of us……

I shared a room with Bill last night and I recall hearing we’d get up at 0600hrs, pack, eat and be off for the last push back to Texas. What I missed was, we would depart at 0600hrs. Whoops. So up at 0530hrs it was and out the door by 0615hrs under a BEAUTIFUL pink sunrise and (ugh) 79*F already. When the temp doesn’t go below 80 at night, you just know it’s going to be a miserable day’s ride heading into Texas.

We made our way to 135 after a little ‘detour’ of sorts, but all was good. Having stopped for fuel only 35 miles out of Salina the night before, we were in good shape for a good run at the morning - a Saturday Labor Day holiday morning at that. We ran down to Wichita and fueled in a not-so-great part of town. On the bright side, a revival tent erection party was going on across the street best we could tell and that was fun to watch. And coffee. Yes. Let’s start the caffeine now. (see, these BMW ‘beaks’ DO have a purpose as ugly as they are to most….”
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Again, we had high clouds for a majority of the trip and you can’t get any more boring than the run down I35. So what to do? “Give me Wings”!
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Down through Edmond, then Marietta OK we went and it was crowding lunch time and traffic was certainly building. And that high haze was wonderful keeping the direct sun off of us. Down through the Arbuckle mountains we went (again) and stopped at a Robertsons for lunch. That was a first for me and I think Bill as well. Not a bad sammie place…
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It was here for the first time during the trip that someone actually asked “Who’s riding the BMW” instead of “Who’s riding the Bonnie”. We all got a chuckle out of that - and a 10 minute story from an older gentleman and his wife about riding three up on an old BMW airhead in the 1950’s.

We kept motoring South on “Adventure Road” as the billboards kept telling us. I never did figure out what the “Adventure” was other than a lot of tourist traps and casinos. Maybe there were a few ‘interesting’ things tucked in there but to be honest, nothing that made me want to stop.

As we approached the Ft. Worth area we opted for a little detour instead of coming down I35W the whole way. It was a great little detour that had traffic but not stupid traffic. Along the way, Frank and Vince both peeled off and we waved goodbye leaving just Bill and I to get to his house.

The high clouds were beginning to thicken a bit and come down and I started to think I would suck-it-up-buttercup and go on and make the run down to Austin after I picked up my solid textile jacket/pants I left at Bills before the trip. I think Bill was thinking the same thing I was thinking as well, and sort of confirmed it when I stopped short of pulling into the garage. By then, Rachel had come out with a big monster glass of ice water which was quickly consumed. It’s down to 99*F now. lol

I strapped down my solid textile gear under the mesh net and graciously accepted a couple cans of spray cleaner for getting the bug guts off the helmet and windshield and stowed them, then it was time to head home. Waco was only 100 miles so I figured I could stop there, fuel, rehydrate and then get home the next 90 miles pretty easily. What, three hours tops and I’d be home.

So off I went down 35 with the clouds building all the while thinking there’s a chance – a slim one – that I’m going to get rained on. And I didn’t make Waco for fuel, but Ross just to the North about 15 miles. No biggie….. A couple people asked where I was headed and I said “Austin” and they commented I was loaded pretty heavy for a 100mi trip. Then I said I’m coming from Salina KS today and had a trip up to South Dakota. That’s when their jaws dropped. Priceless.

So I’m approaching Waco and clear that pretty well and come upon the construction zone. By now there is little doubt I’m going to get dumped on and hard as a large pop-up thunderstorm cloud is heading East to West across I35. At some point I’m going to have to intersect it. Again, it’s hot and I don’t mind getting rained on as I’ll be dry in 30 miles anyway.

So the construction zone starts with the elimination of the shoulders and now replaced with those concrete barriers with about 6” of shoulder. The traffic is heavy and running 65-70 through this constricted area. Then the rain comes across the highway in sheets. Like you can’t see two cars in front of you sheets. And the people are still running 67-70mph. I have nowhere to go except with the flow because you simply can’t see. Then I “think” I see brake lights ahead so I tap my brake a few times to let the people behind me hopefully know I’m slowing. I should have been HARD on the brakes instead as that line of cars running 65-70 had come to a stop.

I thought to myself “This is what it’s like to run into the back of a car going fast”. So all I did was grab as much front and rear brake as I could muster and guess what? BMW anti-lock brakes work really really well in the rain. I stopped about a foot short of the brand new Mustang in front of me thinking the whole time I was going to run into it and that would be the end.

Then the next 10 seconds were just as terrifying as I was thinking “This is what it’s going to be like to become a BMW oreo cookie sandwich between this Mustang and whatever is behind me”. It never happened. The car behind me backed off and got stopped so I was safe. For the moment. It took maybe two minutes before I figured there were enough stopped cars behind me that the accordion effect would have no impact on where I was.

Turns out, in the right lane there was a white Ford dually pickup, windows down, nobody around it and dead in that lane. Just parked. And that’s just as this monster thunderstorm cloudburst dumped right on top of us. We slowed to a crawl, then stop and go/clutch in – clutch out for half a mile. I’m soaked. It’s pouring. I’m alive.

Then the next attention grabber was while moving so slow in the drivers tire track, I go over a seam where a bridge meets the pavement. I’m not kidding when I say the hole in that seam area was at least 15” wide, 10” deep and I would have had to traverse about 12” across the top of it. Had I been in the passenger tire track and hit that at speed during the rain (or dry) I’d surmise bad things would have ensued. So I passed that one and counted my lucky stars that I had adverted two potentially catastrophic events within a half mile of one another. Somebody upstairs has more work/plans for me to accomplish…..

Then fire truck and ambulance after ambulance came from the other direction. A LOT of them. I'm guessing someone behind me was having a really bad day with this storm crossing the highway.

I cleared the traffic jam and just as quick as the rain popped up it was gone. The sun was out, it was hot and I was drying quite nicely for the 95 miles or so to get home.

I pulled into the garage and just sat there on the bike a couple minutes before getting off.

What a day.

What a trip.

What’s next in my life?



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Might I say though, that you seem to be the master at shooting people. WITH THE CAMERA!

Seriously, you even make Bill look both good and like an interesting fellow. :rofl:

Makes me want to tag along on a trip, if for nothing more than the selfish idea of having really good pictures taken of me along the way.

Rachel's first comment when she found out Scott was going was, "Finally there will be pictures of you from a trip, and they are going to be GOOD!"
 
Here's the BIG picture of this trip:
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...and a little more granular in the Custer State Park area
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I'll have an epilog up in a few days. I need some time to just think about this whole experience, what it meant and what I learned from it.

I hope everyone who's had an opportunity to follow along has enjoyed the ride-along as much as I did the riding/shooting and commenting. Bill, Frank and Vince are great guys.... I think we all had a good time on this one.

Your comments are always appreciated and encouraged too...... :mrgreen:



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Thanks for taking us on this ride. The pictures and text combine well to capture the experience.
 
Fantastic RR and Scott, you are a master behind the lens and a great story teller! Glad everyone arrived home safely. If you or Bill don't mind speaking for Frank, how did the "little" Bonnie do on the trip along with the big boys??
 
If you or Bill don't mind speaking for Frank, how did the "little" Bonnie do on the trip along with the big boys??


This is my second trip with Frank and the Bonnie and I am quite impressed with it. It will run a true 75mph all day and night without batting an eye. For reference, a true 75mph is 84mph indicated on my Tenere.

Without hesitation I would ride next to that "little" bike from here to anywhere my bike could take me.
 
Fantastic RR and Scott, you are a master behind the lens and a great story teller! Glad everyone arrived home safely. If you or Bill don't mind speaking for Frank, how did the "little" Bonnie do on the trip along with the big boys??

Thx.

That 'little' Bonnie did not miss a beat on the entire trip. Want to run twisties? Frank and Bonnie were there on Bills butt. Want to run 85mph on the Interstate? Same thing, right on Bills butt.

Fuel range was less, coming in around the 150-160 mark depending on speed, but we all agreed it was kind of nice to stop a bit more frequently because of that.

The only real hiccup was Frank needs to go read the manual on how the kill switch works. :deal: :rofl:


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Scott, what an awesome job on the photos and the story! This was a usual trip for me, meaning one that I kept a fairly detailed journal as we went. I slacked off sometimes, but for the most part I stayed on top of it. This has become almost a must for me as I find myself looking back on all these little spiral notebooks on the shelf and when I thumb through them it literally puts me right back into the trip even almost 10 years later.

This trip for me started months back some very sparse planning between Frank and I. We basically looked at a map and I recalled any and all of the more well known scenic places that I haven't visited yet. At first our options were Yosemite, Glacier, Black Hills, Utah, North Carolina/Tennessee, and a few others that I forgot. That was pretty much where we left the research until about 3 weeks out when Vince expressed an interest in going along. Note, we didn't actually plan out where we were going just yet, we just added another rider to the fray.

About a week and a half out we looked at the weather and it looked like it was going to be a little warm in the Black Hills, but nothing too bad while we were up there. So now with about a week to go the plan was set; we were going to Sturgis! On a whim of seeing Scott's escapades on TWT, I sent him a PM and asked if he wanted to continue his travels for a week or so longer. He asked where I was going, and I told him we were most likely going to the Black Hills, but we might make a detour to Yellowstone or even Colorado. The plan wasn't all that firm just yet.

I could tell there was a little hesitation, but something intrigued him about this trip. I don't blame him for the hesitation as before this trip, the most Scott and I have every really hung out were a few very late nights and early mornings around a smoker. Now I am the first to admit that you see someone's true colors after less than two hours of sleep, and now in a flurry of madness while trying to serve 100 people food. So with that in mind, I felt like I knew Scott better than most. But... I would be nervous about agreeing to a ride with 3 other folks that I've never ridden with, two of which I've never met, and to a destination that was still really unknown, and no real route prepared to get there. Gee what could go wrong?:lol2:

Since Scott has done a most excellent job with a day by day recanting of our trip and I can't possibly even equal that, so I will post up a few photos and throw in some random thoughts of the trip that I had along the way.

First and foremost, I wanted to get a few shots of actual people along the way. All too often, we have beautiful photos of our bikes in amazing places, but no people in them. I wanted to do my part to change that a little.

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These Adventure guys have some fascination with stickering their bikes and I can't wrap my head around it.

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A typical evening walk to dinner.

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The "first" center of the U.S.

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And the second one...

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Who says the best camera is the one you have with you. iPhone, or D4s? The iPhone gets the nod for this shot.

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I love mornings like this. (Badlands NP campground)

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Selfie time!

It is no secret that I love heading out into the dark to try and capture some photos that other people just don't want to get. I'm not going to lie, getting there sometimes isn't fun, and most of the time it ends in frustration. The few times on this trip were much the same for me as things just weren't going my way. Equipment limitations, Mother Nature not cooperating most of the time (now there is a shock), and urban light bleed despite being very much removed from society. But despite all of that, I am oh so grateful each and every time I head out into the dark to see just what the camera can and can't see. It just so happened that Scott wanted to tag along with me this time.

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At our KOA, messing around with star shots and basic light painting.

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At an overlook in Custer SP trying to capture a storm moving in.

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The storm moving in over Hot Springs.

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Deadwood street photography.

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Another photo from Deadwood.
 
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If you or Bill don't mind speaking for Frank, how did the "little" Bonnie do on the trip along with the big boys??

They answered pretty well as to the Bonnie's performance. I wouldn't hesitate to take it anywhere. You do wish for a little more leg room from time to time but in the dollar per smiles evaluation she's been hard to beat.


This is my second trip with Frank and the Bonnie and I am quite impressed with it. It will run a true 75mph all day and night without batting an eye. For reference, a true 75mph is 84mph indicated on my Tenere.

Without hesitation I would ride next to that "little" bike from here to anywhere my bike could take me.


Thanks Bill! Do I still need to get you that T-Shirt that says "No, that isn't my Bonneville!" to wear at each gas stop?



Fuel range was less, coming in around the 150-160 mark depending on speed, but we all agreed it was kind of nice to stop a bit more frequently because of that..

It's funny how that fuel range became less and less objectionable as the trip wore on... :rider:


The only real hiccup was Frank needs to go read the manual on how the kill switch works. :deal: :rofl:

I have an innate ability to read something, commit something to memory, to truly know something, and then blatantly disregard said knowledge at every available opportunity to demonstrate it.
 
Full of sound and fury, signifying nothing... :zen:

"When I consider thy heavens, the work of thy fingers, the moon and the stars, which thou hast ordained; What is man, that thou art mindful of him? and the son of man, that thou visitest him?" Psalm, 8:3-4 (KJV)

"The life of mortals is like grass, they flourish like a flower of the field; the wind blows over it and it is gone, and its place remembers it no more." Psalm 103:15-16 (NIV)

"Lord, you have been our dwelling place throughout all generations. Before the mountains were born or you brought forth the whole world, from everlasting to everlasting you are God. You turn people back to dust, saying, “Return to dust, you mortals.” A thousand years in your sight are like a day that has just gone by, or like a watch in the night. Yet you sweep people away in the sleep of death— they are like the new grass of the morning: In the morning it springs up new, but by evening it is dry and withered.

We are consumed by your anger and terrified by your indignation. You have set our iniquities before you, our secret sins in the light of your presence. All our days pass away under your wrath; we finish our years with a moan. Our days may come to seventy years, or eighty, if our strength endures; yet the best of them are but trouble and sorrow, for they quickly pass, and we fly away. If only we knew the power of your anger! Your wrath is as great as the fear that is your due. Teach us to number our days, that we may gain a heart of wisdom." Psalm 90:1-12 (NIV)

Not preaching at anyone. I have similar musings as you when I visit places that reek of enduring eons upon eons... These are just versus that spring to my mind every time...
 
Like I tried to convey in my helmet thoughts - we are pretty darn insignificant in the 'big picture'.... The above rings true to those thoughts.


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I'd love to ride in the Dakotas and parts nearby, someday. It's just all those miles and miles in between that are kind of off-putting to me. Great report. Thanks, Scott & Bill, for documenting it.
 
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