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TinStar: Real De Catorce... Deja Vu

The crew was up early to pack the bikes and get ready for the marathon day back to Texas.

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At 8 the restaurant opened for breakfast and the fatigue was showing a bit. Huevos revueltos con jamon were the order of the day before we said our goodbyes in front of the restaurant and a few final pics.

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As the sound of GS’s slowly disappeared down the street, I took in the crisp air and sunshine in several deep breaths. The altitude plays a part and the steep streets don’t help. I had adopted the street style of the old natives, walking very slowly and with short steps - but I added the “Oh I must stop frequently and take this all in” move to disguise how out of shape I am.

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Real is a place to savor, to breathe in, to set aside any sense of schedule and just to be. The bohemian travelers one meets all say the same thing… just let go of time. It’s easy to do here.


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Having met such friendly people each time I’ve come, I must say I feel that somehow I’ve lost something that I desperately want to regain. I consider myself a caring, open, and honest person who lives by the golden rule until it hurts, yet the way people I’ve met open their homes and lives to a stranger just humbles and shames me. I’ll spare my thoughts of the hardness and futility of the American lifestyle, but I have to look deeper inside at the walls I live behind.

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To a photographer’s eye, Real is an eternal landscape of textures, moments, light and juxtapositions. It is like being a kid in a candy store and yet exhausting from the number of images one takes and even mores the ones that are missed.

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As my thoughts of motorcycles and goodbyes faded, I slowly walked the sunlit streets and felt a sense of complete freedom, no schedules, no agenda, nothing but the sun and the sky as friends. It was a rare feeling and I took it all in in deep breaths. Also I needed the oxygen.

I shot image after image, stalking figures both unsuspecting and aware for the moment… which rarely came or was ruined by the sudden appearance of someone into the moment. Photogs you know the frustration.

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As I walked up to the municipal plaza, the sound of drums came loudly as a series of school children arrived, each marching down a different street and carrying flags and banners.

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My wanderings eventually took me towards the old original church and cemetery, but I stopped for a Coke and savored the flavor while I sat on the stone ring of the old bullfight arena, it’s lukewarm contents growing warmer in the stinging mountain sun.



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I reminded myself to return the glass bottle to the tiny street-side shop where the lady and her daughter stared wide-eyed at such a big gringo filling the tiny shop. I found a tree stump along the road and hid the bottle until I returned that way.

The old church was built in the late 1600’s and then abandoned when the much larger one was built in the town that grew closer to the tunnel. Though the large church is impressive, it is this original one that I fell in love with. Amongst the graves of the cemetery, which choke the entrance from the deceased’s desires to be as near the altar as possible, I saw the small, old gentleman who takes care of the church and cemetery with his wife. As I approached him he looked up and smiled in recognition. He reached out and grabbed my hand with both his, squeezing hard and smiling a big grin. I said “Jose” and he replied “Alejandro”. We attempted to communicate as usual, not really understanding but knowing each other’s desire to be able to.

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From the church I wandered down across the road and climbed down into a small canyon. following it to the edge of the cliff, but it was hot and I was getting tired as the day had passed away. I retrieved the bottle and made my way back up the dusty street, passing an older lady sitting by herself on a step. She was an older Spanish lady and dressed a bit like a tourist. I greeted her as best I could, and she began speaking to me in Spanish. We attempted to talk and in her tiny bit of English told me “Toronto, Ontario, Hershey’s Chocolate, Houston” to let me know she’d traveled to the US and Canada. We laughed in our attempts to communicate and then she produced a large list of handwritten things to do in Real, pointing at each one and asking si or no? We had fun and in my attempt to say it was a pleasure to meet said “bonita’ or some other word trying express “good” - she laughed and feigned flattery. I laughed and walked on, depositing the Coke bottle with a man in the little shop who looked at me like I was crazy.


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A few steps further down the road I met Brian, a young photographer from Ireland and his friend and assistant Raine. They’d hiked to the Cerro Quemado, the sacred high place of the Huichol Indians that draws new agers from around the world for it’s “energy”. It sits high above the plains that harbor peyote, a part of their ancient ritual.


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I eventually made the main street for a coffee and a rest on the sidewalk out front.


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Pleasantries were exchanged with a few passersby until I headed to the hotel... to download images, sort and rate, tweak, export, attempt to upload again and again, attempt to connect to the forums, attempt to edit and export GoPro footage and then upload to Youtube, then write something interesting to post, go to SmugMug and attempt to connect, wait for the uploads to complete, copy links for each photo and paste them into the ride report, check Youtube upload status, all while the internet connection stopping for 15 minute intervals, made even more fun by the hotel attendant randomly resetting the modem from somewhere downstairs… only to find the forum post has lost it’s “token” and I have to redo it all again. Sometimes I wonder why I do this… :O


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T
Having met such friendly people each time I’ve come, I must say I feel that somehow I’ve lost something that I desperately want to regain. I consider myself a caring, open, and honest person who lives by the golden rule until it hurts, yet the way people I’ve met open their homes and lives to a stranger just humbles and shames me. I’ll spare my thoughts of the hardness and futility of the American lifestyle, but I have to look deeper inside at the walls I live behind.

It's a notion bordering on the quixotic but I think I know exactly how you feel.

It's like the "modern people living in fabricated olden times" reality shows, in that you can't really experience the truth of the situation as your frame of reference is already distorted by your experiences. And those experiences are contemporary. Your Great-Grandmother thought a mangle to be a blessing but you can never see it as anything more than a glimpse back into her times but not her state of mind.

I think the best we can hope for is to be able to touch the fringes of the gown and receive our blessings that way?
 
It's a notion bordering on the quixotic but I think I know exactly how you feel.

It's like the "modern people living in fabricated olden times" reality shows, in that you can't really experience the truth of the situation as your frame of reference is already distorted by your experiences. And those experiences are contemporary. Your Great-Grandmother thought a mangle to be a blessing but you can never see it as anything more than a glimpse back into her times but not her state of mind.

I think the best we can hope for is to be able to touch the fringes of the gown and receive our blessings that way?

Well said Phillip...
 
We appreciate that you do. I too have failed to learn the lesson of the token. I know that any time I write more than a quick paragraph, I should do it in Word and then cut and paste but I never do.

I was figuring you for a Spanish speaker. Apparently that's not the case?
 
Hey Crew Chief! - I know about 6 words in Spanish and I use them in all the wrong ways I'm sure :lol2: but I do wave my arms a lot and smile
 
I awoke a bit draggy and later than usual, due to being up way too late trying to get uploads done with the sporadic internet here. I’d changed rooms in the hotel to a single to save money and the balcony doors open to the street on the second floor. Usually the echoing sounds of old trucks, roosters and the like wake me up but not this time.

I spent some time trying to finish up the online stuff and get my camera batteries charged and ready so by the time I got on the street it was nearing 10:30. Again the sun was bright and the skies clear with a crispness in the air. I wandered the streets until I saw tortillas being made by hand on the grill in a doorway and went in for breakfast. Was the only patron at the moment, but café de ollá and dos gorditas con huevos y queso were a good place to start.

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She made the tortillas by hand and watched the street, while the sound of music from the vendors echoed in the city. The tortillas slowly rose like puffer fish on the griddle until the steam poured out, the señorita quickly grabbing them, slicing them open and filling them with all the goodness I needed.


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As the place began filling with patrons, I finished up and wandered across the street to the museum and paid 10 pesos for entry. It occupies the old mint, with an upper floor dedicated to the history of the area and some great old photographs of the Huichol Indians, along with artifacts and such. The lower floors are galleries and exhibits of artists and their works.


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Exiting, the attendant pointed across to the large church and gave me hand signals where to go and repeated “milagros” several times. I thanked him and though I’d been several times, I wandered over to visit again. The church is much larger than the older one on the edge of town and is impressive in itself. It was empty save for four who knelt for prayers. I watched in reverence and walked slowly on the wooden plank floors which squeaked loudly under my weight no matter how slowly I moved. The loud echoes seemed a bit inappropriate with the piousness of the worshippers. And about those floors, there is some debate as to what they are, as they appear almost as wooden doors or lids with hand holds in them, the purpose unknown… or at least one purpose I discovered a bit later.

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In a room on the left side of the sanctuary are hundreds or thousands of hand written and hand painted letters from those who testify of their healings and miracles. It is quite impressive to see.


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As I made my way out, I stopped to change lenses and of course dropped a rear lens cap, only to watch it roll like a tiny wheel straight into the nearest hole in the floor. At last the mystery of the wooden floor and its holes was revealed.

Crass as it may seem, I waited until the worshippers finally left before getting on my knees in the main aisle to see if I could find it in the hole. I could see it and actually touch the top of it with my finger, but my hand was too large to gain the extra 1/2” needed to catch it between two fingers. I tried to fish it with my sunglasses to no avail, and even looked around to see if there might be something I could use, but I’d have had to disassemble some holy relic so I decided not to... I prayed for a milagro to no avail. I was alone, but the thought of what it would look like to see a huge white guy digging in a hole in the middle of the aisle in their holy place seemed hard to explain, so I made sure my back was facing the entrance so that if anyone came in, it would appear I was kneeling or crawling in reverence towards the altar.

After some time like a raccoon trying to reach something in a bottle, I decided I’d spent enough time on my knees in the main aisle and did NOT want to be known as the giant gringo who was kneeling in the aisle with his hand stuck in the hole and unable to leave. I can only imagine the legend that would grow out of that.. Anyways, if you ever need a Micro 4/3 rear cap feel free to figure which hole it’s in.

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From the church I walked to the fountain in front of the municipal building, then down another street until I spotted a young vagabond couple, the girl wrapped like a gypsy and the boy dirty, burned dark and disheveled. In the U.S. I’d say they were homeless and living on the streets, but as I got closer they were in a heated argument in perfect English, debating their website's design, traffic patterns and promulgation as they worked on their MacBook Air laptops. Had to chuckle.


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Aside from my tush, the only other casualty from our horse riding experience a couple days before had been the small camera pouch I used in my tank bag. My cranky horse chose to bash it (and me) repeatedly into the other horses with ferocity, actually ripping the seams on the innocent pouch. I’d been through a couple of shops looking for a suitable leather replacement the day after, but nothing was right. Again I went into a shop owned by an Italian leather maker to see if I might have missed something. He had been gone to lunch the previous time, but was in his shop today. In broken English we discussed my problem and he said he could make me a simple pouch to carry one body with lens mounted along with a second lens. He drew the design on paper and said he’d have it ready in the morning. I thanked him and wandered out, excited to get it the next day.


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As I neared the hotel, a dog lay casually in the street and as I looked at him, a guy selling jewelry on the sidewalk spoke to me in a French accent, telling me the dog’s name. He was young and sported the gypsy look that is the style of young and old non-locals living in the area. He said his name was Guillaume and he was from Switzerland. While we spoke a darkened Hispanic man with tattoos and piercings arrived with tortillas, cheese and avocados. The man introduced himself and asked if I would like some of the food, as he, Guillaume and a third young man all lived in the same house in the little village of Los Catorce, shared their food and made jewelry to sell. Indeed each had a blanket with their own styles of handmade jewelry on it. I thanked him for the offer of food, and he responded that I was welcome to stay at his home the next time I came to visit the town. The three of us talked for quite a while before I decided to move along.

It was late when I took my seat on a stone curb and watched the setting sun skim across the building facades and the faces of those who passed by.
 
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Totally enjoying your pictures and narrations. Kinda just wonder just what's under that church floor where you lost you lens cap. Thanks for the work and time to share with us that will never see it any other way.
 
those are crypts. Important folks of the community were buried there until they ran out of floor space.
I first went to Real in the 1970's and it was much less "touristy" then
 
those are crypts. Important folks of the community were buried there until they ran out of floor space.
I first went to Real in the 1970's and it was much less "touristy" then

Thanks for confirming BoBo - I suspected that they may have built a "floor" over the original tombs
 
:clap: I really enjoyed this report! Your fantastic photos and descriptions do a wonderful job bringing out the atmosphere of the places you visit. Thank you for all of the time you spent creating the report.
 
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So today I bought a Ferrari. In Real de Catorce of all places. A black one.

As with backpacking, moto travel is a minimalist sport. Smaller and lighter is better. I’ve tried various small travel camera systems over the years and this trip is my first to use the Lumix Micro 4/3 GM5 and GF7 cameras and lenses. They both have 16 mp sensors and proven IQ. For lenses I am using the 12-32 and 35-100 kit lenses - very tiny, very sharp and equivalent to 24-65 and 70-200 lenses. I also use the Olympus 45mm 1.8 for a fast 90mm equiv.

The GM5 is minuscule, the size of a deck of cards with a tiny electronic viewfinder and the GF7 is a bit cheaper and with a tilt screen.

The entire kit - 2 bodies, 3 lenses, charger, 4 batteries and related stuff all fit in a 3.5 x 5 x 8” case. Yep.

Though the minuscule size requires getting used to, I’ve adapted quickly and find the system easy to use. I’m a fan of the Sony E-Mount such as the A-6000 and they are easier to shoot with as the larger size has better ergos, but I’m happy with the GM5 and it’s images - even more so the size of the kit.

But back to Ferraris… local leather craftsman Simone Ferrari, who came from Bologna, Italy to Real 25 years ago, had designed a simple, discreet black leather pouch for me based on the camera size and made it in a few hours for a reasonable price.

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Simone Ferrari and Jemma
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Each day I bumped into Maria, a traveler from Portugal and a friend of Hank’s who was living in Real. She told me that on the weekends the town fills up with local farmers selling produce, craftsmen and artisans selling wares and the population swells a bit with tourists. In the afternoon I could tell, as several shops and cafes that had been closed all week were now open and there were more people selling handmade jewelry on the sidewalks.


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What you do in Real is walk, talk, smile and take it in, with the occasional time on a bench to watch the others doing the same thing. So that’s what I did. I explored a few other hotels, though the Mina Real is superb, and marked a few for the future.


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As the day progressed I bumped into 3 Norteńos, whom I’d met at breakfast, returning from their attempted hike to the old ghost town. They’d asked about it that morning and I suggested they take the horses rather than walk, but they feared riding horses. Sure enough they had turned back before reaching the top but still had enjoyed it. I suggested they hike to the Cerro Quemado the next day as, though further, it would be a bit easier than the steep rocky approach to the Pueblo Fantasma.




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It was late in the day when my breakfast finally wore off, the smell of gorditas wafting down the street drawing me back to the little place across from the church for a rest. I ordered a couple of gorditas and a Coca-Cola and grabbed a tiny table outside to people watch.

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My Coca came out first in the hands of a very young boy whose hands were covered in oil and grease from the food. He struggled to get the cap off with the opener, a task made more difficult by the oil on his hands. I said “Gracias el jefe” which made him smile very big. He then began a burst of Spanish to which I replied “No halo español”… He paused and looked at me for a bit then reached for my camera. I showed it to him, then took a pic or two or three. He was enamored with seeing himself on the screen and we became best buddies. He then picked up my phone and deftly began swiping through the apps like a pro, I’m sure looking for games and speaking to me in spanish. A call came from inside and he dropped the phone and squirted back inside.

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The streets had a bit more activity than normal, and as the day ended I wandered back to my hotel. I watched on the street as the old blind man felt his way past, greeting him with “Buenos tardes”. Each day I’d seen him walking up the street past the hotel and each day I greeted him.


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As darkness fell I sat in the room and looked at photos of the day and thought about the past week.

If I could sum up Real in a word or two, it would be the sound of children’s laughter. Real is a noisy place, not in a bad way, just that there are so many sounds that one is aware of - an ambient backdrop of roosters, donkeys, horse hooves, rattling trucks with bad mufflers, birds singing, Mexican music, off key random trumpet blasts, voices, short whistles and the sound of children. But mostly the sounds of children, their laughter, screams, giggles and excitement. The town is full of children and they seem to be very happy. That is a good thing for my soul, to know there is a place filled with happy children.

The night ended with a tinge of sadness and a tinge of exhilaration as I packed my compression bags for the trip home the next day.
 

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So today I bought a Ferrari. In Real de Catorce of all places. A black one.

...

The town is full of children and they seem to be very happy. That is a good thing for my soul, to know there is a place filled with happy children.

Pure awesomeness right there! :clap:
 
Very nice report. Do have a safe journey
 
The day dawned overcast and gloomy, much like my mood about heading out for Texas. There was a genuine sadness in leaving, a bit deeper than just a returning to the reality of life.

I double checked the room before suiting up and clumping down the stairs in my boots, finally remembering to duck the concrete beam that sits in the dark just outside my room and 4 inches lower than the door. I laid the key at the front desk along with a “muchas gracias amigo” to the attendant wearing a big smile. I’d woken up early in anticipation and had loaded the bike, which now sat idling to warm up enough to avoid a stall on the steep streets. I rolled off the curb and down the street before heading back uphill and around the corner for a quick coffee.

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One of the three Norteño’s I’d seen the day before, an American lady from Australia, was having a coffee and waiting for the couple who were traveling with her to arrive for breakfast. We spoke about the town and their previous day's hike, shortened by the man’s back condition and then I understood why they hadn’t ridden the horses. They were still excited to try to hike to the Quemado however.

After pleasantries and finishing my cup of café de olla, I wished her well and headed out on the street to finalize the bike before getting on the road. The skies were still gloomy as I put my ear buds in and readied my music on the phone. Down the street I saw the American couple entering the cafe to meet their friend. They saw me and waved, then the man's wife ran up and began speaking to me. I pulled the plugs back out so that I could hear. She wished me well and safe travels, which I appreciated. I told her maybe we’d all see each other again on the road. With a big “Adios” she ran back down to the cafe.

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I put the earbuds back in and lifted the helmet to put it on, carefully starting to slide it down so as not pull out the plugs, when I heard the sound of a bongo drum behind me. Turning, I saw a young guy smiling and playing the drum with his finger tips. I pulled my helmet off and the earplugs out again so that I could hear him speaking to me. It was Guillaume, a guy from Switzerland I’d met the day before on the street. Guillaume spoke excellent English with a French accent, explaining that his accent was from growing up Geneva.

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He was asking if I was leaving Real for good and heading for Texas again. When I answered yes, he asked which border crossing was best. Though I was heading for Laredo, I suggested either Piedras Negras or Del Rio as having less traffic. He laughed and said he’d crossed into Mexico at Piedras Negras, but the next time wanted to enter Texas through Del Rio, “because”, he said, “Del Rio is actually my last name. My mother is Spanish.”

I told him "Guillaume Del Rio" sounded like a name from a movie to which he laughed out loud. I wished him well in his travels and he shook my hand, then continued down the street with his cryptic bongo beat.

Again I carefully put my earplugs in and this time slid my helmet on without managing to pull them out. As I buckled the strap and started to climb on, I saw motion to my right. I turned to see the man whose wife had just wished me safe journeys a few moments earlier. He was waving at me and saying something. Once again I pulled the helmet off and the ear plugs out so that I could hear. His name was Joe, and he said they’d started breakfast and were talking about me being a kindred travel spirit and wanted to stay in touch. He wanted to exchange info so we both looked for a pen and a scrap of paper. They lived in Chico, California part of the year and on a small lake in Mexico the rest of the time. He invited me to come visit and then talked about the area where they lived near the Pacific, motorcycles, his back injury and much more. He shook my hand and then headed back for the cafe.

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My “hit the road time” of 9 am had slipped away and it was nearly 10 before I finally got my earbuds and helmet on for the final time. I zipped up and closed the jacket vents, turned on my music and fired up the bike. Slowly and carefully I turned the bike around on the rough streets and then slowly idled down the street, taking in the last look. The caballeros who stand on the corners watched as I rode by, Guillaume and a couple of friends on the sidewalk waved as I ducked under an overhead tarp and past folks sitting at tables eating food from the street vendors. As I accelerated and turned up the steep street past the plaza, I saw Jemma and Maria outside Simone Ferrari’s shop waving to me but I was unable to respond.

I rode much more slowly than usual on my way to the tunnel, as I wanted to absorb some of what I enjoyed on this trip. When I arrived at the tunnel entrance, the attendant motioned for me to stop and wait - which meant the vehicles were coming from the other end.

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As I sat and waited, a break in the clouds came and so did the heat of the riding gear in full sun. I got off the bike and shot a few photos while I waited at the entrance, watching the people who were watching me and the bike.

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After what seemed an eternity I saw pinpoint lights moving in the tunnel signaling the beginning of the end of my wait, though it was a long time before the cars, pickups and a bus finally rumbled out and into the dusty parking area.



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The guard waved and I hurriedly threw on my gloves, fired up the bike and rolled into the tunnel making sure I didn't have to ride behind any of the waiting trucks for the two mile trip. There was a pall of dust, acrid diesel, must and dampness mixed with gasoline laced exhaust fumes as I rolled in. The air was cool though and felt good after the heat of the sun. I listened to the sound of the rumbling Boxer engine echoing with the sound of the cobblestones and watched the shaking headlight pattern on the walls as I passed from pool of light to pool of light from the sodium vapor lamps above.

Coming out finally into the light and passing waiting vehicles, I saw some blue in the sky and felt a tinge of excitement for the thought of riding again. As I rounded the high curving cobblestone road, the old church we'd explored a few days before on horseback stood silhouetted high on the hill ahead. It was a nice sight to remember as the miles slipped by heading for Laredo.


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Nice report. I love the pics and the story.
:sun:
 
That was a very well written story, that the pictures brought to life.

Always wanted to go to Real.

Thanks for sharing!!!
 
Doors and Dogs

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Thanks for riding along and all the kind words!

Adios Amigos
 

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Great story and pic's. I love the door photos, reminds me of when I visited San Miguel de Allende in the early 80's with my fiancee' and some friends. We took the train from Nuevo Laredo to San Miguel and stayed for several days in San Miguel. (No motorcycles). I was struck by the doors on the homes, very similar to your shots. Also, on the roof's of most of the homes there were usually dogs, though much more aggressive looking than the one's in your photos. The roof's of the houses were also lined with broken glass and broken bottles imbedded into the mortar. That, plus the dogs was a very effective security system methinks.
 
Hey GreenHornet - indeed there were some cranky dogs on the roofs of some of the houses as well as the broken glass... they are indeed intimidating lol
 
Super story & pics. I will return here & spend a little more time when not rushed. I especially enjoyed the street vendor breakfasts & that awesome coffee they cook up in a big cauldron.

Thanks for sharing Tin Star.
 
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