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Postcard from the great San Juans

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_RG_

_RG_

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Aspen colors just starting to show at higher elevations. Some bright splotches at 10K. The things change incredibly fast.

48 this morning... days are getting cooler.

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OK.... Ryman creek trail has to be the pride of some diabolical masochists trying to convince flat-landers like me to stay down south and never even look to the north.

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Yes, that is a solid vertical rock wall on a steep and loose climb where going over the edge ends badly. This whole thing is off the chart.

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This is one of three crazy guys from Poland who dared to run this trail with me. They live in Denver and their English is pretty sketchy but they can ride motorcycles like they're possessed. Maybe that's all they have to do over there... They are certifiably NUTS! Sort of the European version of Larry, Curly and Mo after way too much caffeine.

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But did YOU make it up the vertical wall...? :-P
 
Tourmeister said:
But did YOU make it up the vertical wall...? :-P
Click to expand...

NO... I did not. :doh:

The picture should have included the ledge in front of my rear tire when I took the one of the wall. On my best day, under ideal conditions and wearing my lucky fur lined thong, I might make it up this trail. (But don't bet on it)

That day was wet. Friend who lives in Ophir had warned me not to attempt this one if it was the slightest bit wet. HE WAS RIGHT.

Here's a much kinder and far gentler trail known as the East Fork.


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These things are changing color by the hour.

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One of the crew practicing his "lean wayyy right" technique.


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Seems to be in pretty good shape at trails end.


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Nice pictures and fun times. Ouray, Co. area is one of my favorite places.
 
Made a huge loop today of mostly high altitude FS roads. The idea was to stay along the western border of the Lizard Head wilderness to the Wilson Mesa trail near Telluride. Guess where the rain had been? Yep, water running down the trail when we got there. I went up a couple hundred yards and looked back. Riding would have damaged the trail in a really bad way. I turned around and called it for another day. Rotten situation, however, the ice cream wagon in Rico just happened to be open on the way back. :mrgreen:

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The area West of Telluride and Rico is really awesome. It was there that the infamous pic of my 1150 GS napping upside down was taken.
 
RG, killer photos. I really tried to come back to Durango after I finished my work in Denver but after more than two weeks away from home I just couldn't swing it. Should have though.

I did a few of the rides you and I did the year before but I was never able to find any killer single track. Everything I tried had signs saying no motorcycles. Need to go back and learn more of the area single track.

Have fun up there for all of us stuck in the heat, we miss the turning of the trees.
 
It was time for the crew to enjoy a little high altitude aerobic workout.

The Bear Creek trail is classic Rico goodness. It starts out with several snuglish switchbacks that help ensure those making the ascent have proper business attempting this trail. If not, going back is a short trip. Make the switchbacks and the rest will be plenty fun and challenging for anyone.

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We tried to go up the mountain by the Little Bear trail. It basically follows the creek straight up. Coming down this one would be fun. Going up it is not. No switchbacks and nonstop rocks, roots and scree. We turned back.


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This poor rascal was seriously spent. I've rarely seen a rider make it to this point of exhaustion. 11,000 feet and Rico single track can humble just about anyone. I won't go into what it took to get this guy and his motorcycle off the mountain.


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The Grindstone trail is one way to come up from Bear Creek.


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Such challenges are not uncommon despite excellent trail maintenance from some local folks.


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RG, freaking amazing !!!! Good for you! Keep um coming and where are the GPX files :)
 
The tailbone said it was time for a leisurely day on the big bike. Rico single track is beyond awesome but about three days in a row seems to be my current limit.

So... off for some solo Alpine Loop adventure stuff. First - up to Telluride just to see the circus. Their blues fest is going on this weekend and I'm pretty sure they've lined up about every last port-a-potty in the southwestern US in honor of it.


You know you're in Telluride when... I mean a buck and a half for air?


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Then out the backdoor to Imogene Pass. It was about the toughest trip I can remember making on this one. The "road" is really loose this year starting from just above town all the way to the pass. There's also a jeeping jamboree going on so traffic was a challenge. But, it was a clear day and the views were good.

A look at the Black Bear switchbacks from just above Telluride by the tunnel.


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And at the pass.

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Rode on down the mountain into Ouray to one of my traditional favorites.


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And across the street for a quick smackling.


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Then a spirited run up Corkscrew. Always fun.


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It's started...


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From the peaks I could see rain in spots across the San Juans so I skipped Animas Forks and took a quick route into Silverton. This is another favorite. The owner is a great guy and a fine off-road motorcyclist who just happens to make the best funnel cakes I know of.


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There was a cloud towards Black Bear Pass but it looked more to the south so I took a chance it would be dry and rode that way.


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It was in fine shape so I headed on down into Telluride again.


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After navigating through all the pretentiousness of Telluride once again, shadows were getting longish and it was time to turn knobs back toward camp. Along 145 folks were out taking pictures in the evening light so I figured...why not.


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I rolled it in just about dusk with a totally gratifying moto tiredness that only those who venture on two wheels will ever understand. :rider:
 
A trail named "Grindstone" would give me pause to consider... :wary:

Riding that big KTM down Black Bear would also give me pause to consider! :eek2:
 
Tourmeister said:
A trail named "Grindstone" would give me pause to consider... :wary:

Riding that big KTM down Black Bear would also give me pause to consider! :eek2:
Click to expand...

Grindstone was about our only choice for getting off Bear Creek. It's a technical hill climb that goes on for quite a while and gets your blood pumping. The only other option - Little Bear trail looks to be a downhill run. The lower 1/3 that we rode up was ridable but just too doggone brutal to be much fun. And, there was no chance at all the guy pictured DOA on the trail was ever going to make it. That part of the trail is the least accessible so the show MUST go on... somehow. :trust:

Black Bear on the 1190 seemed like such a great idea - right up until I rolled over the cables. :eek2: But, at that point, what choice do you have? Those brief few moments of descent will dang sure sharpen one's focus. And in my case, put a remarkably sharp crease down the center of the saddle.

Well, moving eastward - today finds us in the Rio Grande NF well east of Creede, Colorado. Getting over here was pretty tense. Pulling the RV over Wolf Creek Pass in a pouring rain mixed with sleet was NO FUN! I don't understand the local's issue with going 10 mph on the downhill side...?

This will be new territory for me but from every indication there are trails all over this area (and a lot closer to Texas). Many on the MVUM are single track motorcycle only. We saw 38 on the thermometer this morning. Here's the view out the front door earlier.

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I'm in Ecuador reading about your adventures . Great report. Can't believe you took that beautiful 1190 down black bear. You be crazy man !

Lots of riding around here . I have to get you and your wife here sometime .
 
I have spent a lot of time looking over maps of the area East of Southfork. I've never done any dirt riding in that area. It looks enticing. Can't wait to see what you found!
 
Tourmeister said:
I have spent a lot of time looking over maps of the area East of Southfork. I've never done any dirt riding in that area. It looks enticing. Can't wait to see what you found!
Click to expand...

I have been looking there too. I have done Lake City twice now. It is fun, but I am looking for new territory.

I did ride some around Saguache last year, and I found a good county road path from Lake City to 114 near Saguache this year (72 miles of mostly dirt one way!).

Craig
 
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