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Conspiracy against riding. I rode 3,744 miles anyway.

Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
3,830
Reaction score
4,956
Location
Bryan, TX
First Name
Dennie
Last Name
Spears
Last year I was denied access to Canada and driven out of Oregon and California by smoke from fires. Over the winter, I carefully planned for this year. Canada and the US had both closed their border and I waited for the 21st of every month for Canada to announce they were going to reopen. They did, but reentry into the US was a big headache so I decided to just go for a ride. Fires in California put that state off my map. Just before announcing my planned departure date to my wife, Linda, she told me she had decided to finally get her hip replaced. My departure date remained the same, but my return date changed. I had 2 weeks.



Day 1-travel day 424 miles

I knew I was going to Utah to see Goblin Valley State Park, but I also needed to stop by my cousins house in Paris Texas. At 72, she’s a year younger than I. I am her closest living relative. She has stage 4 lung cancer and is on Hospice care. After a short visit I made it to Wichita Fall for my first night.



Day 2-another travel day 399 miles

I saw an unusual sign selling meat, game processing and guns and thought that it was really strange, but I failed to do a U-turn and get a picture. Miles later I saw these two and I did a U-turn.

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A friend lived in Borger, Texas, so I decided to drive through there instead of getting on I-40 with my limited horsepower DRZ.

When you can’t afford Cadillacs for your ranch, you plant Bugs.

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I believe this display is a sarcastic comment on the Cadillac Ranch west of Amarillo, TX.

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There is a hotel on The west side of Clayton, NM that is highly rated (4.8 out of 5.0) and $65 per night. The owner shot this rather large black bear and hung the skin on the mantel in the hotel lobby. As my 3 year old nephew would say, “Look Uncle Humanrace, they took apart a bear.” I stayed in a motel because it’s 94 degrees at 7:00 PM.

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Day 3

My brother and his wife live in Taos, NM and I knew I could get free meals and lodging while seeing some of the local sites.

Sunflowers beside the road with Capulin Volcano National Monument in the background.
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The last time I was in the area, the ranger would not let me go across the washed out road on my DRZ. The road has been repaired, so up I go.



Along the road up Capulin

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This is along the path that meanders around the inner crater. At first, I thought they were pebbles, but they turned out to be lots and lots of lady bugs. This would be the second time I have found large masses of lady bugs.

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From the rim

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Looking across the crater to the parking lot where my bike is parked along with my wallet and all of my cash in the tank bag. When I got back, I divided my money and put half in my left front pocket. I also put a credit card with my loose bills. I didn’t forget my wallet again, but I was prepared if my 73 year old brain betrayed me again.

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I rode through Red River and decided to take several roads that cut off from the main road, just exploring. All were out and back. One followed a little creek with a cliff.

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I texted my wife, sent her this picture and told her not to write any checks or draw any money out of our credit union because I bought the lot next to the green roofed A frame house. Her response was, “liar.”

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I stopped by to chat with my dad and became fascinated with his neighbors. Mrs. Cullender died at 82 years old. One can only assume they were still married when she died since her husbands name is engraved on the headstone beside hers. He was 85 when his wife died. Is he still alive and 133 years old? At 85, did he find a new lady and forget about this one? Was there nobody around to pay for the additional engraving when he died? I ponder.

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Now, this couple did it right. Petra waited 54 years to be buried next to her husband. As a coincidence, he lived to be 54 years old and she died 54 years later at the age of 99.

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More New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, and back to Colorado coming. This is mainly a ride trip with short stops to venture into the beauty of our land.
 
I made it to my brother’s house just in time to take a shower and take them out to dinner. Sit down restaurants are in short supply in Taos because they are taking Covid 19 a little more seriously that we are in Texas. We ate at the 5 Star Burger where they have a great lamb burger. However, they also have the worlds smallest ice cream cones for desert. No pics.

Day 4

I wanted to ride to the Rio Grande Gorge bridge and buy my wife some CBD oil from the roadside venders. She says that it helps with her painful knees and hips.
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I also wanted to hike down to the Manby Hot Springs where Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper, in the movie Easy Rider, took the two ladies from the commune for a swim. The road through private land had been closed because of littering done by bathers. The only way to reach the springs was by boat or hiking along the shore of the river. I opted for the 5 mile hike since I didn’t have a boat. The hike started at John Dunn bridge, the closest access to the hot springs.

Typical scenery along the road to the bridge
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Closer to the river, it got a little more dramatic.
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These two guys were climbing the wall on the west side of the Rio Grande. One of them is the blue dot about 2/3 up from the bottom of the picture and middle ways horizontally. The other one is to his left.
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I spotted this fellow just as I started walking along the river bank. It’s right in the middle of the barely discernable trail.
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About ¼ mile later, the “trail” became non existent. I have hiked the Colorado trail from Denver to Durango, many canyons in Utah, and up several 14,000 foot peaks in Colorado and I can say this is the hardest hike I have ever done and it’s only 5 miles round trip.
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The springs have been altered since the movie was filmed. The original structure is in the background. It has been filled with sediment by spring floods and the spring exits the ground in two places outside the enclosure.
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The larger of the pools. Both are somewhat maintained by the homeowners along the now private road. I met one of them at the spring, but did not ask if I could take a picture. He was naked. We talked while soaking in the hot waters and he said he was one of the few that voted against closing their private road. The river is about 60 degrees and it felt really good after hiking the trail. After soaking in the hot waters, the river was shockingly cold.
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Can you see the bighorn sheep across the river? Right in the center of the picture. There are actually two, but even though I know where the second one is, I can’t make him out. My long lens was in Texas.
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I only rode 29 miles today, but it was my most strenuous day. The 5 mile hike took 4 ½ hours of clambering over boulders and walking in a swift river.


Day 5
Earthship Biotecture west of Taos on Hwy 64. Mostly self contained houses. My brother has been in several and says some of them are elaborate. Some may be made of empty beer bottles, but they are expensive and luxurious.
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I found a dirt road from highway 17 to highway 160. It was numbered 250 and 390. Nice road and scenery along the Conejos River.
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I found a nice spot for lunch. Crackers, cheese and peanut butter washed down with Gatorade. If you like cheese and crackers as a snack, but the lack of refrigeration on your bike causes the oil to separate from the cheese, switch to Tillamook cheddar cheese.
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Next stop was Wolf Creek Pass.
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I tried 2 private commercial campgrounds. One was full and the other was $45. I stayed in a motel in Durango. I was expecting camping to be at a premium like it was last year so I didn't even try to find dispersed camping since it was getting late. I was wrong. Dispersed camping was easy to find this year.

Next up, the Million Dollar highway as I have not seen it before in my 38 trips to Colorado. I am alone and I can explore all the small roads leading to ?????.
 
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Day 6
I have quit stating my mileage because I kept forgetting to write it down. Resist getting old.

Hot springs along the million dollar highway.
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A short side road going to Haviland Lake
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The lake was quite low, but I watched this guy catch two nice trout in less than five minutes.
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Lime Creek has gotten rougher. There were lots of places to camp along the road, but I had “miles to go before I sleep.”
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A popular camping spot along Lime Creek
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I’m not sure why this area gets a guard fence when other more dangerous spots do not.
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Another side road and a short hike will take you to Lake Andrews
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From close to Molas Pass. In the past, I have notice the patterns of the trees growing on the mountainside across Hwy 550, but until this trip, I thought it was unusual, but natural. It turns out there was a fire around 1870 that cleared the mountain of trees and created a mud slide problem. Various people started planting memorial trees in lines and clumps. Others added to the lines until today, we have distinct patterns of trees nearly 150 years old. They are still small because of the altitude of over 11,000 feet.
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Along the Million Dollar Highway north of Silverton
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Next up, Highway 141 to Gateway, CO. I met these two fellas playing with their Bultaco and Montessa trials bikes along with their International Harvester Scout.
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Why I like 141. That is not a dynamited wall, it's natural.
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I made it to Gateway around 4:30 and it was still over 100 degrees. My plan was to go to Utah, but the heat had just about changed my mind. Grand Mesa would be in the 40s at night and both were about the same distance. A group of bicycle riders convinced me to take a dirt road to Moab, mainly because they were going there the next day and because one of them told me there were lots of slot canyon along the road to Goblin Valley
State Park.

Along John Brown road to Moab.
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It becomes paved and connects with the La Sal loop and 128
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I rode through all of the USFS campgrounds along the Colorado River. All of them had open spots and I backtracked about 3 miles and took one close to the river.
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It was getting late after I set up camp. I rode about 7 miles into Moab and ate at the Moab Diner.
Goblin Valley and slot canyons coming up when I get time.
 
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Looking across the crater to the parking lot where my bike is parked along with my wallet and all of my cash in the tank bag. When I got back, I divided my money and put half in my left front pocket. I also put a credit card with my loose bills. I didn’t forget my wallet again, but I was prepared if my 73 year old brain betrayed me again.
I'm enjoying the ride report very much. Thank you.

I use a neck wallet to keep my DL, a CC, and a bit of cash in. My wallet stays in my riding pants unless something like a request from a Trooper brings it out.
 
Day 7
I had to get on I-40 for a short period of time. My DRZ does not like I-40. Even the interstate is pretty in Utah.
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When I got to the turn off to Goblin State Park, the dirt road going straight looked interesting. I took it. Graffiti is not a new thing.
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This free campground, set up perfectly for RV type camping had no campers. Last year it would probably have been full.
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An innocent dry wash
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quickly turned into this.
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and then into this for a couple of miles.
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Just before sundown I saw these two walking a ridge line above the park campground. See their silhouette on top of the rise in the middle?
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Now for what the park was named for: Goblins, complete with eyes.
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This one reminded me of some film version of an alien
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Only 130 miles today and that includes 60 miles round trip going into town for a hamburger. If you are ever in Hanksville, UT, stop and get a milkshake at Stan's Burger Shack.

Day 8
I need to work my way South without using Hwy 95 all the way since it has been washed out just south of Natural Bridges. I decide to head west in Hanksville and go through Fruita in Capitol Reef NP. I also wanted to do Burr trail and Notom Bullfrog to Lake Powell and take the ferry across.

Just along the road.
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This formation has a name. I'm not sure, but I think it is Egyptian Temple.
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Smoke from the California fires ruined a lot of would be pictures.
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I'm glad I wasn't here this spring. With this many Juniper berries, the cedar pollen must have been visible in the air.
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Gooseneck Point in Capitol Reef
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Sitting on the edge. 244 meters to the bottom
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Burr Trail. I met a fellow rider at the start of Burr Trail in Boulder, UT. He was a fly and buy rider from Alaska and flew down to ST. George, UT to buy a GS1200. He had turned around on Notom Bullfrog because of deep sand and advised me to do the same. I figured I would go until it got too hard for my Contenental TKC70 tires.
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Approaching Capitol Reef from the west on Burr Trail
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Here's Bullfrog in the valley. California smoke is very evident.
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Approaching Lake Powell. Apparently the sand wasn't as bad as GS1200 rider from Alaska thought. The problem may have been his 9 gallon fuel tank being full.
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Lake Powell and the closed ferry are in the distant smoke. When I asked in the convenience store about the ferry being open, the young lady laughed and said, "I believe it's been open two days this year."
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Topping up the tank at $4.759/gallon.
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Typical scenery around Powell. It never gets old to me.
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Back on Hwy 95 heading to Natural Bridges. I'm hoping to camp there tonight if I can make it before dark.
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The Colorado River and the bridge I'll be using to cross it. This is a different view than what is usually posted.
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The typical view posted by me and others on the TWT forum
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I got to Natural Bridges just as it got dark. My neighbor was also setting up camp. It was the GS1200 rider from Alaska. He had gone back to Hanksville and down the entire length of Hwy 95 while I cut across on the dirt roads and we both got there at about the same time. The campground was about 25% occupied.

The next morning I took a picture of his bike. He was still sleeping when I left. Does that look like a 9 gallon tank?
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Tomorrow I take my wife to a doctor in Houston for a final visit before her Thursday appointment for a new Hip. Her left leg is 2" shorter than her right leg. The entire ball is missing from the top of her femur. A couple of prayers for her recovery would be appreciated. I will finish when I get the chance.
 
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Enjoying your wanderings and observations very much. And the pics!

:clap:
I'm glad you are enjoying the report. My wanderings had very little planning, but were highly enjoyable. My original plans were to continue last year's trip in Oregon and California if Canada didn't open up. Then, that changed to going to the Dakotas because of fires along the west coast. That changed because my time frame for riding coincided with the Sturgis Rally and I didn't want to share my highway with a billion other bike riders. It all worked out for the good.
 
Thank you very much for the reports and photos. Both are appreciated! When I retire, I want to do some similar rides. You have given some great ideas for routes and destinations. And I'm praying for your wife. May her recovery go well.☺️
 
It's GREAT to remember you can hop on a cheap, light, 400cc bike, head off alone and see some of the pretties roads and views in the world - all in a couple weeks. Yes, Patagonia or the Alps would be amazing. But Utah, Colorado, New Mexico are stunning, cheap, and accessible. You don't need $20k in a bike and a string of fancy hotels for $200 / night. All you need is time and the desire. Ohhh, here's to wishing for that much time!
 
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