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The people and the trees were the highlights. A 51 day ride west.

Great report. I love that area around Angel Fire and Red River. And Chiricahua is definitely a place to see. The time I was there it snowed (late March), and we hiked through all of the snow-capped columns. Marvelous!
Thanks, I would love to see Chiricahua with snow. I would also like to see Bryce and Canyonlands with snow.
 
Day 17 continued
I Went West. This time, I had used my phone to check if Havasu Falls was open. It was supposed to be my next stop, but was not open.
Here's why I want to go.
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Sixty years ago or more, Burma Shave had ad signs along highways. These are a couple of examples along Route 66.
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We tried to guess what the next sign would say.
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The Burma Shave signs were along many highways, but the only place I've seen them in the last 40 years is along Route 66.

I passed this guy along Route 66 and pulled over to wait on him. It was quittting time for several factories and traffic was heavy. We only visited for a couple of minutes.
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In early 2020, he sent his bike and trailer from Germany to Florida. Covid hit and the US wouldn't let him come over. This year they did and he's riding his 1961 50cc NSU Quickly from Orlando, Florida to Las Angeles, California while pulling a trailer. He's afraid he won't make it because his clutch is slipping and he has to pedal when going uphill. He seemed dumbfounded that none of the shops he stopped at could order him a clutch. He's 70 years old. I hope he made it.
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I saw a lot of older Corvettes along 66 and imagined that there must be some kind of convention. My thick skull suddenly opened and I realized they were reliving the TV show, "Route 66," about two guys touring the highway, working odd jobs and saving the damsel in distress. At least, that's the way I remember it. This damsel didn't seem to be distressed, she seemed to be thoroughly enjoying herself.
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Day 18
I spent the night as the only camper in a BLM site north of Chloride, AZ. It was getting late, so I didn't stop to change sprockets on my way up. Going down, I felt the necessity to do so. I didn't see anyone going up or down.
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Gusty wind in the Arizona flat land below.
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The Hollies
"The road is long"
"With a many a winding turn"
"That leads us to who knows where"

My long road.
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Lake Mead just before the dam. It looks small here, but it's a mighty lake, the largest reservoir in the country. Right now, it's 143' low out of about 530' capacity
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What makes it mighty, the Hoover Dam
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Just like Lake Theodore Roosevelt, the road used to go over the dam. Traffic jams were terrible and a new bridge was built.
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I spent the night in a private pay campsite in Pahrump, Nevada. Wash clothes, resupply food, change oil and eat in a restaurant.
 

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Day 19
I hate Las Vegas.
I like Red Rock Canyon west of Vegas
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The desert with a green streak. Hmmmm.
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There is always water if the desert is green.
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The top destination of this trip.
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This couple is from Quebec. They've been in Death Valley about an hour longer than I have. They are from Quebec Canada and asked if I spoke French. I don't, so we continued our conversation in English. They are doing a tour of the Southwest and described Death Valley as a much larger Big Bend. I agree. They have been there recently and are on an extended trip. They are also on bikes that don't match. I don't think she knows her helmet is giving her static electricity, but he does
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I stopped for a picture and they passed me.
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.
This group was riding a wide variety of bikes. Except for the couple from Quebec, they were all riding together.
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The Devil's Golf Course. Those are all salt crystals. Close to this spot, Death Valley is over 200' below sea level and the high spot in Death Valley is over 11,000 feet above sea level. Precipitation that falls on the high spot never leaves Death Valley except as water vapor..
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I was unaware of the locations of fuel in the park, so I filled up at the earliest convenience for $8 per gallon. It would not be my highest price.
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I established my camp in the Furnace Creek Campground in the next to last shaded site. It was not necessary since night temperatures required my sleeping bag be zipped. There was daylight left so I rode to Dante's Peak.
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On the way back to Furnace Creek, I stopped at Zabriski Point for a multi-hued vista.
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The campground has a spring fed swimming pool and that was my shower for the day. The water felt really good when I jumped in, but the sun went down while I was swimming and the walk back to the campsite was rather cool. The swimming pool didn't supply towels and I didn't take one on this ride.

Day 20 coming up.
 
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Day 20
I woke up early to the sound of doves. The California doves make a different sound than Texas doves. Today's ride will be to The Racetrack which my neighbor has told me can be done in the family car. I head out with water and snacks, but no tools or spares.
Things got a little prickly.
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The Saline Springs Road was washboard the entire length, but a single track vehicle could usually find a smooth path. Unfortunately, the road turned into 4 wheel drive and since I hadn't seen a single other person in about 30 miles of dirt road, I thought it might be judicious to turn around and come again with tools, spares and more water. I thought my neighbor had been mistaken about road conditions, but it turns out that there are two ways to get to The Racetrack.
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I rode this highway that disappears into the horizon both directions.
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I went into town for lunch since I was close and met these four riders and their wives from Brazil, all on what I vocalized as identical rented Harleys. I was quickly told the differences between the 4 bikes. By the way, Brazilians don't appreciate the fact that we call ourselves Americans. I single handedly set back the US/Brazil relationship to a dismal point. I did this in less than a minute. By the time we all finished eating lunch, the scowls had left most of their faces.
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Since lack of tools kept me from going to The Racetrack, I went sightseeing. I happened upon these charcoal ovens. They were only used for three years and that, plus the climate they are in, have kept them in remarkable condition.
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Each oven has a window shaped opening with an arched top.
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I saw three wild donkeys on this ride. They are so prevalent in some areas of California that they can be seen in town grazing in people's yards, just like deer in Texas.
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Ubehebe helped form Death Valley by exploding. It's a half mile wide and 500' deep.
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Two years ago, I was stopped from going to Death Valley because of dense smoke. This year the valley is open, but Scotty's Castle is closed because of flood damage. Flood damage in the driest place in the US.:doh::doh:
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Back to Furnace Springs and a cold beer with my uninformed neighbors.
 
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Day 21
Breakfast buffet at the resort restaurant was $18. I felt that was a little high for breakfast, but I was ready for a good breakfast. It would have been a good "breakfast included" motel breakfast, but was in a much fancier location.
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This time I was ready for The Racetrack road. I thought. I had water, spares, a 13 tooth sprocket and a good idea of road conditions. I thought. I also had 60 pounds of extra weight, which is a bad thing. Things got interesting.
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Then Things got very interesting and steep.
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It turns out that a bike doesn't always need a side stand.
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I had to unload the luggage to get the bike unstuck before finally getting to The Racetrack.
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I don't know how fast these large rock raced across this dry lake bed, but they definitely left tracks.
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Judging by the number of tea kettles left at Tea Kettle Junction, I should name my driveway Ducati Junction.
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Georgie was also left at Tea Kettle Junction. I approve of his "Our Most Modestly Priced Receptacle."
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The Joshua Tree lined car friendly road to The Race Track if one were coming from a different direction than my route. Joshua trees were named by the Mormons because they thought their branches looked like the outstretched arms of Joshua welcoming the Jews to the promised Land.
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I was getting low on food. For dinner, I had peanut butter and crackers washed down with coffee. Tomorrow I will leave Death Valley and start making my way to my nephew's house in Reno. I have tires waiting for me. Also, something is happening to my charging system. The bike turns over slower than usual if it's left sitting for more than a few minutes.
 
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It amazes me that Maurice can camp for 2 weeks off of a VFR-800 with no hard luggage and has to use the rear seat of his Gold Wing on a 3 day ride using motels.

It is like attic space, closet space, or a large gun safe. If you have the space, you always overfill it.

Between the towns of Lubbock and Slaton (home of the world famous Slaton bakery) is a steel house that one man worked on for 29 years before he died. He lived in a finished part of the house for about 6 months. It's on the ToT and was our first stop of day two.

Back in the mid 90's I was in Lubbock visiting a friend that was in Med school. We all went out to see that house. We were standing around out front when the designer/owner showed up. He gave us a personal tour. It was very cool. There was another house nearby that looked like a giant sea shell. I was told he designed that one as well. It was occupied by a family. We didn't get to tour that one.

I tried cooking breakfast, but I couldn't find my lighter. It showed up packed in the stove bag. I found it minutes after I bought a replacement.

Too funny. Just a few days ago I was asking my wife if she had seen something I was looking for. She told me to just order a new one so we could find the original. We have a real gift in that regard :-P
 
It is like attic space, closet space, or a large gun safe. If you have the space, you always overfill it.

I used a 40L pack when backpacking for exactly that reason. I now have one 22L and one 32L pannier on the bike. Should be plenty, though I have a medium Wolfman duffel bag too, if I need it (I haven't).
 
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Day 22 Heading to Great Basin NP in Nevada.
I exited the NE exit of Death Valley and headed to Beaty, NV. This miner met me at the city limits.
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I stopped for breakfast and met this guy. I don't remember his name. I think he rides the ideal dual sport if not camping. Luggage capacity is its limitation.
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I stopped in the very eccentric town of Goldfield, population of less than 300, but at one time it was the biggest city in Nevada.
The Biker Wrench station will repair your motorcycle or sell you a souvenir. 900 Kawasaki drag bike.
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Early '60s Harley 250cc road racer.
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Triceratops
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A truck that was being worked on when I was there two years ago.
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The start of the Extraterrestrial Highway. By no gas, they mean no businesses open to the public at all.
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I did not see any stickers from other planets.
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I spent the night in a $51 motel and restocked my pantry.
Day 23 would open with me meeting another character.
 
I woke up in Ely, pronounced like the girls name Ellie. It wasn't far to Great Basin, but I did some chores around town and left late.
I saw this gateway made with antlers and stopped for a picture. Those are chandeliers hanging off each end of the arch.
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On the way to the antler arch, I had passed a young man pulling a trailer while jogging. I thought his story would be much more interesting than a bunch of antlers so, I did a U-turn.
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Meet Austin Brau from Amarillo, Texas. He's running from the Pacific to the Atlantic Ocean. He started with new tires on the trailer and is going to have to replace them soon.
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I rode up to the park and found a campground.
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After putting up my tent, I went into the small town of Baker for a beer and a muffin. Austin jogged up while I was eating on the front porch. The owner and her young employee ran outside and said, "You must be Austin." They had heard from others about Austin's trip and had been hoping he would make the slight detour to come by their store. The next morning I went back to the store for milk and another muffin. Austin was there and we ate breakfast together. While I slept in a freezing tent and no bathroom facilities, Austin had slept in the local church with the thermostat set at 70*. Anyone from Amarillo know him? He's a thoroughly enjoyable young man that is having the time of his life. His enthusiasm is contagious. His trailer is for sale. Asking price is $8,000. If it sells he may abandon his goal or he may get another trailer that's not made out of schedule 40 PVC plumbing pipe.

What I could see of the Great Basin. The road was still snowed in.
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More eccentric beside the road.
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I'm amazed with how you can collect so many cool pix yet still make so many miles in a day. I struggle with stopping everytime there's something I want to point the camera at and the urge to keep on riding.
 
I'm amazed with how you can collect so many cool pix yet still make so many miles in a day. I struggle with stopping everytime there's something I want to point the camera at and the urge to keep on riding.
I think the longer days keep my average daily mileage up. It's hard for me to pass by something like the legs sticking up out of Too Tall's grave.
 
Day 23 & 24 combined and continued. I had some mix ups in my notes.
Ramen Noodles were on sale and it has been a while.
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Just before the road closed sign in Great Basin.
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Why?
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In Nevada they plant wind turbines like row crops.
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Highway 50 is dubbed as the loneliest road in America. It is not.
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Day 25 & 26
Yesterday the high was around 45*. I left my electric Jacket liner on the entire day my phone was charging and I had to have the headlight on for the last 30 minutes. I falsely blamed the starting problem I had this morning on the weak charging system of the DRZ and my need to be warm. I will find the real culprit soon.

Body work removed to expose points to attach my jumper box.
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A happy man. The jumper box worked. Does my new helmet make me look like I belong on an early Saturday night live?
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It snowed recently along the Mt. Rose Highway going to Lake Tahoe
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The north shore of Lake Tahoe
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This lady took the picture above. She doesn't ride, but saw The Long Way Round on TV and was fascinated with my bike and my ride.
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The start of the famous Rubicon Trail. I did not ride it.
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Two different views of an inlet and island on the south end of Lake Tahoe. It's a beautiful lake.
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I spent most of day 26 at my nephew's house in Reno. He's an accounting professor at the University of Nevada. He did a good job of picking that university. Beauty surrounds his house. Jeep roads start two blocks from his house. Skiing is 30 miles away. New tires are mounted and balanced. I used my nephew's jack and jack stands to support the bike. I took his jack out of a plastic case, along with two jack stands. I tried to put it all back in the case, but I failed.
 
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How do they taste?
That's my feeling also. They are an invasive species that is devastating the desert environment in Nevada and California. We have about 50,000 wild horses and donkeys in pens at a cost of over $2,000 per animal per year. Some have been there for many years waiting to be adopted. It's time to use some common sense and use control methods.
 
Day 27
I got up early. My nephew sleeps late because he stays up late writing songs and playing his instruments. The DRZ would not start. I checked resting Battery voltage and it was 12.6V, good. I checked battery voltage with the starter button pushed and it was less than 10V. The jump starter worked again and battery voltage at part throttle was 14.4V. Bad Battery. I had put a bigger battery in the bike than stock and it was less than 6 months old. In order for it to fit, I had to modify the battery box as instructed on a DRZ forum. When I rode the rough stuff in Death Valley this happened.
How did it even start the bike when the bike was warm? The battery box modification works on an S model because of the 120/18 tire size. It does not work on an SM model with a 150/17 tire size. The local Auto Zone had a battery. I waited the required hour and a half of charge time because Auto Zone will not warranty a battery if it doesn't get the suggested slow charge. The new battery wouldn't take a charge. They could get me a new battery at 2:45. I did a little writing, made a few phone calls and ate too much while I waited. I left Reno around 4:00. Bad Mechanic.
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Dispersed camping tonight. No table, no fees.
 
Day 28
It has been cold up high. Last night, I tried to stay up late reading "Freedom" and writing in my notebook. By staying up late, maybe I can sleep until the sun comes up and warms the tent. If the wind is not blowing, the sun will change the internal temperature of the tent by at least 15*. It worked. I slept late and woke up to a warm tent. I rode through lots of beauty today along the Feather River gorge, a Butler Gold road. It well deserves the ranking.
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There were some burn areas
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I am certain that these are Bluebonnets. Have Texans been spreading seeds in foreign states?
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The railroad and highway swapped sides. The bridges all along the Feather River are historical bridges built almost 90 years ago.
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Construction delays allowed me to stop and soak in the beauty.
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More swapping
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I stopped at Scooter's Cafe for a burger. Not open on Monday and Tuesday? Fritos and bean dip for lunch.
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I like two of the signs on their wall. You guess which two.
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One more time. I'm telling you, this is a classic road.
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Motel tonight because it's time for an oil change, laundry and restaurant meal.
This patron is also getting a fill up. Sorry for the camera shake.
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Day 29
Add a trip to the post office to mail postcards to the 8 and 10 year old neighbor kids to today's chores.
A local sitting at the table next to mine at breakfast suggested a route I should take to Burney Falls. He said it was a little rough, but I took it anyway. I'm glad I did. He told me these rock walls were originally built by Chinese indentured servants in the mid 1800s and had recently been restored. There were miles of them.
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Burney Falls is different. It's created by an underground river that emerges to the surface a short distance upstream from the falls. As you can see by some of the water in the falls coming out of the rock wall, all of the river doesn't exit upstream. The water temperature mostly stays below 50*. Today it was 46*
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Note the nesting area of black swift birds. According to the sign and quick research on the internet by me, black swifts only nest behind waterfalls and only land on their nest. They do everything else, including mating, while flying. I spent the night at Burney falls for $33, but it came with hot showers and flush toilets
 
Well, if I was in another country and the locals wanted to call themselves dragons I wouldn't get upset since I'm a visitor to their country!
My thought is, "What do you expect us to call ourselves? United Statesians?"
 
That's my feeling also. They are an invasive species that is devastating the desert environment in Nevada and California. We have about 50,000 wild horses and donkeys in pens at a cost of over $2,000 per animal per year. Some have been there for many years waiting to be adopted. It's time to use some common sense and use control methods.
Agreed. It's all about emotion.
 
My thought is, "What do you expect us to call ourselves? United Statesians?"
That was exactly what I asked during the argument. Apparently in Brazil, they think we are relegating others to lower class citizens by calling ourselves Americans.
 
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