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A Summer Long Ride

Over the mountain from Fortuna.
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Day 19 - Santa Clara to Garberville

As I previously mentioned, my daughter joined me for this long weekend ride. Over the past two years and 3000+ miles she seems to have gotten as hooked to riding through nature as I have. I sometimes consider helping her to the next step which means getting her a motorcycle. But, I can hear her Mother screaming down at me from heaven every time the thought enters my head. So, we'll just keep it to 2 up riding for now. :)

Today's Route:

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The weather on the coast was cooperating so it was time to head north. We started out on 101 along the south bay until reaching San Francisco. It was Labor Day weekend and the traffic was a real mess. Fortunately, we were able to lane split our way through most of it and made it to the Golden Gate pretty fast. Unlike last time, the weather was sunny and clear which made for a really nice view of the bay.

Just a few miles down the road, we turned into Mill Valley and onto Highway 1. It was a slow but enjoyable ride through the Muir Woods and down towards Stinson beach. However, the traffic piled up and stopped just outside of that community. People on bicycles going the other way kept telling us they would turn around if they were us. Knowing that the price for this detour was high, I reluctantly gave in and headed back the way we had just came. We eventually found our way back to 101 north and headed towards Petaluma. The plan was to take the Bodega highway back to the coast from there. After more than two hours of detour fun, we found ourselves near the coast again. It was time for a break though and since I like Albert Hitchcock movies, I must always stop at the church where all that bird business began...

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After a short break, we continued north a little past Jenner. There are a couple of really good views there worth stopping for.
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The problem with stopping at such amazing places like this is I just want to hang out, listen to the waves and seagulls, read a book and take a nap.
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A little further up the road is Fort Ross State park. I found this place about seven years ago and make a point to break here each time I ride through the area. Amenities become sparse around here so the cold drinks and shade from the sun is really nice.

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This is bunk-house one with the chapel in the left background.

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A view of bunk-house one from inside the Fort.

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The view outside from bunk-house one.
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A view of the chapel from bunk-house one.

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Bunk-House Two.

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Threats from the ocean were addressed by three small cannons.
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This chapel was part of the settlement founded by the Russians in 1812 and known as Fort Ross. The fort was in the form of a quadrangle, about 300 feet square. "inclosed" by a redwood wall, with two block-houses at opposite corners. Fort Ross contained fifty-nine buildings, nine of which, including this chapel were within the "inclosure". The Russians withdrew in 1841 selling their improvements and stock to John A. Sutter of Sutter's fort.

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This sheltered cove right outside the Fort "Inclosure" was where the Russians built their ships.
 
We got back on the bike and continued north on highway 1 all the way to Fort Bragg. I was ready to get moving which the coast highway is never about so we headed back over the tight technical mountain roads to 101. We were losing daylight pretty fast so it turned out to be a decent choice. 101 in this area is elevated and twisty as well which made for a fun ride through the redwood trees into Garberville. It was a nice but tiring ride. I was looking forward to a good night's sleep.

Day 20 - Garberville to Garberville

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It was nice to wake up a little later, have breakfast and not be in too much of a hurry to get anywhere. After a while, we hopped on the bike and started the ride north on the Avenue of the Giants. I have wanted to film this area for years but it was raining last time I came through here so I was happy to get the chance.

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Riding under these giant trees is always an interesting experience. The fern ground cover always catches my attention as well. Everyone should do this at least once.

Already hungry again, we exited the avenue and got back on 101 north. Eel River Brewpub is a cool place to eat lunch and have a cold beer. We sat outside and enjoyed temps in the low 70s. Tempted to order a second beer, we decided to get moving instead and headed south to Rio Dell where we crossed the Eel River and rode parallel to it until it headed towards the coast. These series of roads turned out to be some of the coolest ones of the trip. As always, you have to ride technical switchbacks up and down a mountain to get to the coast. The road is hardly bigger than a goat path which makes for some interesting maneuvering at times. Eventually, the mountains descended to the ocean revealing the lost coast. I have heard of this area but have never seen this part before. It really is beautiful and there is hardly a soul around. Combine that with cool pacific marine layer and I would have to say it could not be more perfect.

I finally made a video of the Lost Coast


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There are several permanent one lane bridges along this stretch of coast line.

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Headed back inland...

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Lots of motorcycles back here on these roads.

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I love this guy's getup and he certainly looks like he is having a lot of fun.

We spent the next couple of hours riding small mountain roads only my gps knows where. Seriously fun roads with large commercial fields of 420 growing out in the open. Things certainly have changed during my lifetime. Anyway, we eventually ended up on the west side of Humboldt Redwoods State park which turned out to be more impressive than the Avenue of the Giants. I will have to go back some time and film it. If you are in the area, don't pass it up. The scenery is hands down some of the prettiest in the country and the freshness of the air is absolutely amazing. Very very good for the soul...
 
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We had such a good time riding these Humboldt county roads we started running out of day light and decided to stay in Garberville again.

Day 21 - Garberville to Santa Clara

Waking up in Garberville I could already tell it was going to be hot inland. Even though pressed for time, I decided to hop onto Highway 1 at the start near Leggett and ride it all the way back. In hind sight, this turned out to be a good choice as the heat along 101 was much worse than I could have imagined. Fort Bragg to Mendocino to Point Arena was really really nice. The temps were in the 60s, sun was shining and there were not too many cars. However, once we reached the outskirts of Bodega Bay, it seemed like the entire city of San Francisco was at the beach and in our way. Traffic came to a stand still. As I was thinking about splitting on the right hand side of the road, a harley zoomed passed me doing that. So, I tucked in behind him and was able to skip an hour or more wait in traffic with some adventurous maneuvering.

I wanted to keep riding down the coast but the traffic was already so bad it would have been a bad decision to do so. Back down the Bodega highway in the heat we rode. My ambient air sensor read 102 and I was thinking that it was real hot for this area of the country. It got much worse though. Before we exited Petaluma, the temp was showing 114 and the air was burning my shins through my boots. I have ridden in 116 before and swore I would never do it again. I certainly did not expect to get close to that record in northern California. I was also concerned about my daughter but she said she was all right so we kept on moving. Not too far down 101, the traffic piled up again. So off we were lane splitting but this time all the way onto the Golden Gate bridge. The temperature had dropped into the low 80s which made me relax a little and enjoy the rest of the ride. That is until it hit 107 just south of the city. I have wondered for years just how hot is too hot. 107 is when my shins started burning so 107.

End of Part IV

Even though I would like to keep doing this for a couple more months, I need to stop spending money and bring the FJR back. Part V will be the final leg of this summer long ride. Until then here is a final look at the giant redwoods of Humboldt county.

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Thanks for all the info. I am headed for the Pacific via California in a few days on my FJR. Heading later for Yosemite from the Bay Area going over 120 and staying near Lee Vining and then up to the Great Basin National Park. From there I will probably take highway 50 to Salina and then 24 to Capitol Reef National Park. And of course now I want to ride 95 to Blanding.
 
Hanksville to Blanding is one of my all time favorite roads. If you have time for a loop go south at Torrey to Boulder, through Calf Creek area to Escalante then turn around and come back up and continue your journey from Torrey to Blanding. That detour is the nicest of nice in Utah. Hanksville to Blanding has spectacular views as well but higher speed sweepers and a place where you can see how fast that FJR actually goes :-)
 
Thanks for all the info. I am headed for the Pacific via California in a few days on my FJR. Heading later for Yosemite from the Bay Area going over 120 and staying near Lee Vining and then up to the Great Basin National Park. From there I will probably take highway 50 to Salina and then 24 to Capitol Reef National Park. And of course now I want to ride 95 to Blanding.
You bet! That sounds like a real nice trip. I like your idea of Highway 50 and Great Basin National Park. As you can tell from Ed's and numerous others comments about 95, you will not be disappointed.
 
Yes, I am back at it again. I have to be considering one of my bikes is a significant distance from here and needs to come home. The trip odometer is just a little north of 6700 miles and there is about 2300 more to go.

There are multiple scenic routes out of the south bay. I prefer the one with the least freeway miles which takes me over Mount Hamilton and into the central valley near Modesto. A couple of hours later, I should be well into Yosemite National Park on CA-120. I may stop at or near the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and meet up with some friends riding out there. From that point forward, I will figure out if I will slide into Colorado or head north into Utah first.

The weather, dare I say it, looks very nice along the entire route. There is not much planning to do as the entire route is familiar territory. I had new tires put on and the fluids changed out. All my gear is already packed on the bike. So, it is really easy except the airport part which I just loathe. I suppose this is not a bad problem to have though.

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Some of the highlights of this trip will be:

1. Yosemite National Park
2. Warm Springs, Nevada (where?)
3. Grand Canyon North Rim
4. Monument Valley
5. Utah Highway 95 (yes, again)
6. LaSalle Junction to Gateway
7. Lake City, Colorado
8. Creede, Colorado
9. Lubbock - Just kidding

And many other things in between. I hope the Aspen tree leaves are still fluorescent yellow.
 
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6. Cut across Y11 Road - if you dare.

9. I've lived in Texas for 65 years and have never been to Lubbock.:eek2:
 
6. Cut across Y11 Road - if you dare.

9. I've lived in Texas for 65 years and have never been to Lubbock.:eek2:
I like how Y11 follows the Dolores river. The FJR has no problem on gravel roads but deeper sand can be challenging. I may give it a go. I can always turn around.

As much grief as I give Lubbock, they have a Chuy's which tastes very good after a couple of weeks on the road.
 
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And finally the view from my balcony this evening at Mono Lake.
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Today’s ride was nice and leisurely. It has been 5 years since the last time I rolled through Yosemite. I was taken aback at all the disease and fire damage. If you want to see Yosemite with trees, I would not put it off too much longer.
 
Pacific time is messing me up. But it allowed me to be awake to catch the sunrise. 45 degrees and no humidity to speak of.,,

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Today is a ride in the “wilderness”. Cars are usually seen only every 30 minutes or so. I have not made up my mind if I will head due east or south towards Goldfield yet. Either way, this ride around the perimeter of the Nevada test site is always a surreal and memorable experience.

Into the wild I go…
 
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