Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! 
Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to Hello two wheeled Texans, with encouragement of your member LicketySplit, I want to share the story of my first big motorcycle
trip after having gotten back into motorcycling.
Having ridden bikes from the late 1970s to the mid 1990s, I decided in the fall of 2020 to give myself a belated 60th birthday
present, a 2004 BMW R1100S. She had about 16k miles and was in rideable shape, but needed some love. A trustworthy
motorcycle shop (not the local BMW dealer….) put her right and I started to go on weekend day rides.
After having had the pleasure of meeting and chatting with LicketySplit a couple of years ago at Lees Ferry, I wanted to take the
iron horse on a multi-day trip. Our plans to ride together haven’t worked out yet, so this spring, I decided to visit an old college
friend in Canada on the bike, and then return to Arizona before the summer heat sets in. My destination was Moose Jaw, SK,
about 1600 miles from my home in Chandler in the SE part of the Phoenix metro area, on the most direct route I was planning.
I was looking to ride on 2 lane roads as much as possible, without spending a lot of time on interstate highways. My friend and I
agreed on me arriving in Canada on May 29, so I planned to leave on Sunday, May 26. I split the route into 2 longish days, followed
by 2 short days further north. My overnight stays would be either AirBnBs or motels. Day 1would end in Grand Junction, CO. Day 2
Grand Junction CO to Gillette WY. Day 3 Gillette WY to Circle MT. Day 4 Circle MT to Moose Jaw, SK.
I needed to travel light since this BMW is not equipped with luggage, and I wasn’t going to spend the $ to do so. I still had a soft
expandable RKA tank bag with map case for essentials, and got a 40L roll-up dry bag to strap onto the pillion seat. My main
concern was comfort on the bike, so I packed accordingly:
- stretchy wicking base layers and tops for cool and hot weather
- off the bike clothing, rain jacket, beanie, swimsuit
- spare riding gloves and neck gaiters, rain over-mitts
- small toiletry and first aid kit
- small compressor with charging cable (works for my cell phone too)
- Optimate battery tender
- 1 liter of Motul 7100 15W-50 oil
- hydration bladder, small water bottle
- travel coffee mug
- AAA roadmaps for AZ, UT, CO, WY, MT, SK
My riding gear is an RST Adventure X suit with thermal/waterproof liner, back support/kidney belt, neck gaiter, earplugs,
leather gloves and boots, Arai Regent X helmet.
I must admit that I was quite nervous about going on this solo trip. My top worries were wind, wind, and more wind. I’ve been
riding enough in such conditions to know how unpleasant and dangerous it can be, and certainly didn’t want to spend hour
after hour wrestling crosswinds. Another worry was the weather. Although the forecast for the trip was quite good, you just never
know. In case of extreme weather I would adjust my route and/or the timetable. The third concern was the bike. Since I’ve only
ridden her once or twice a month, I always had her on the battery tender between outings. I worried she might not start in the
morning, and took the battery tender along just to be safe.
I promised my wife to ride during daylight hours only, and with a full tank and bags packed was set to leave Chandler on May 26
at 4:30 am. I wanted to beat Memorial Day weekend traffic out of the Phoenix metro area, and would loose an hour when entering
the Navajo Nation territory.
Day 1, May 26
Got up at 3:45 and into my riding gear. Doublechecked everything (drivers license and bike papers, passport etc), set tire pressure,
kissed my wife and dog goodbye, and hit Interstate 17 at 4:30.
Daylight came around 5 am, just as I was reaching Anthem north of Phoenix. Temps were very pleasant, and I settled into a comfortable
speed around 4000 rpm in 6th gear, 75 mph. Very light traffic made the climb past Black Canyon City a joy, and once on the plateau I
soaked in the early morning sunshine. Half an hour later I descended into the Verde River Valley, still keeping the bike humming along
around 4000 rpm. My worries had receded to the back of my mind, I was enjoying the ride and looking forward to whatever was going to
happen. Climbing up to the Coconino Plateau I turned on the heated grips (thanks BMW!) and thought about my first coffee break in
Flagstaff. The little green mermaid was beckoning, and I had made pretty good time. Filling up the tank and getting caffeinated took about
half an hour, and I was heading N out of Flagstaff before 8 am. I continued on Hwy 89 north, then turned east onto Hwy 160 towards Tuba
City and Kayenta. Time to adjust my watch and another fill up of the bike. Even though I could squeeze about 200 miles out of the 4.8 gal
tank, gas stations in this area are few and far between, and pushing the limit of your range is not a good idea. Plus getting off the bike
and stretching my legs every other hour or so helps on long days like this. 300 miles down, roughly another 300 to go. I turned north onto
Hwy 163 towards Monument Valley and Mexican Hat. Traffic was still pretty light, except for the point where the Forest Gump scene
had been filmed. I enjoyed the ride past Monument Valley but didn’t stop for photos. I have beautiful memories from a trip almost 20
years earlier when my wife, our daughter and I went horseback riding with a Navajo guide in much quieter times…
There is something about traveling through the wide open spaces of the Navajo Nation and the red rock country of the desert Southwest.
My day to day worries of life in the big city are being pushed back by the scale and grandeur of the landscape. My mind and my senses
are tuning into this atmosphere, and I am filled with the joy and peace of every moment.
About 20 miles past Mexican Hat I merged onto Hwy 191, past the little town of Bluff and the Junction of Hwy 95, a road for a future trip.
I pass Blanding and take another short break in Monticello, stretching my legs. The breeze picks up, as does the temperature, but still
quite pleasant. Another hour has me approaching Moab, now with noticeably more traffic. It’s time for a longer break, some food and
drink. I fill up the bike once more and decide to rest until about 3:30. I remove the thermal liner of my jacket and open all the vents. I
skip Arches National Park due to traffic and its summer access policy, and instead take Hwy 128 going upstream along the Colorado
River. A beautiful road in very good condition, albeit very busy for the first few miles past Moab. There is a separate lane for bicycles,
and plenty of campgrounds and access points to the river. Very cool, I like it! Roughly 50 miles later I merge onto I 70 east heading to
Grand Junction CO, my destination for the day. I am longing to get off the bike, a nice shower, some food and comfy bed, so I up the
pace and arrive in Grand Junction just before 6 pm. Before heading to the AirBnB I gas up once more and buy some Safeway fried
chicken for dinner. My host for the night is a lovely elderly lady with 3 little dogs, living in a brand new house. She tells me to make
myself at home, and after cleaning up, having dinner and a little conversation I am happy to go to sleep.
Summary: 12.5 hour trip including breaks, 595 miles, fuel consumption 45.4 mpg.
Day 2, May 27
No crazy wakeup time today, even though it’s another 500+ mile day to reach Gillette WY, where I have a motel reservation. I slept
very well and wake up shortly after 6. After a quick shower I put on my gear, with the liner zipped into the pants due to the altitude of
my route. My gracious host is already up and about and I give her a hand with some small things around the house . She offers me
a cup of coffee which I gladly accept. I set my tire pressure and strap the luggage to the bike. Then the big moment, will she start?
A quick turn of the throttle before I turn the key. I pull the choke and wait for the slow blip of the light on the left of the handle bar, then
push the starter. She starts right up and let her idle while saying good bye and thank you to my host. I am very happy and on the road
by 7:30. Today’s route continues on Interstate 70 another 60 miles, and then turns north at Rifle onto Hwy 13. Once I make that turn I
am on terra incognito. Hwy 13 runs N along the western slope of the Rockies and is a very enjoyable motorcycle road. It starts with long
straights and big sweepers, becoming more twisty once you’re past Meeker. Then suddenly the road goes from grey to reddish brown,
due to millions and millions of freshly hatched crickets crossing the road in search of food. This lasts for a few miles, and I slow down
considerably - coming off the bike because of insects on the road isn’t something I want on my record. I arrive in Craig before 10 am and
fill up. It’s a beautiful ride, and my gear and the heated grips keep me comfortable on this sunny, mid 40s morning. I leave Craig for the
Wyoming state line and am presented with this lovely sight of the Elkhead Mountains.
Colorado Hwy 13 turns into Wyoming Hwy 789, and I ride across the high desert studded with pumpjacks towards Interstate 80. The wind has picked up
considerably, somewhat annoying but not scary. I merge onto I 80 at Crescent Junction and let my bike gallop the 25 miles to Rawlins. I enjoy the tailwind,
winding the boxer to 7000 rpm in 6th gear, and then settle just below 6000 rpm. These bikes were built to run at speeds of 100 mph and more all day, and
mine does it enthusiastically and with superb stability. I arrive at big Maverik station just before noon for another fill up and a longish lunch break.
I meet a group of Harley riders pulling trailers. They turn out to be snowbirds on their way back to North Dakota. I even get compliments on my bike, very
cool and much appreciated! The wind keeps blowing strongly and steadily, and I realize it will be like that for the remainder of the day. About 240 miles to
go. The wind is now coming from the south, so the first 40 miles from Rawlins to Muddy Gap are not bad at all. After turning onto Hwy 220 going ENE I
huddle behind the fairing, keep a light grip on the handlebars and lean into that wind. It’s blowing pretty steadily, so no problem and no scary moments.
I enjoy the scenery of Independence Rock State Historic Site, the Pathfinder Bird Refuge and the North Platte River. The landscape has changed from
high desert to prairie. I arrive in Casper and somehow miss the turn N towards Gillette. Since I need more gas anyway, I pull into a station and ask for help.
A friendly couple riding Harleys offers to escort me to the turnoff and I am very appreciative. Camaraderie among bikers, enough said! I leave Casper on
US Hwy 87, then take Wyoming 259 to Wyoming 387. The road is in good shape and quite enjoyable, though that wind is wearing me out. Thankfully I
have less than 100 miles to go. I get relief when I turn north onto Hwy 59 for the last 38 miles into Gillette. Tailwind, I missed you so much my friend! The
late afternoon is sunny and beautiful if somewhat chilly, what with me living in Arizona and very windy 50s temperatures. As I pull into a gas station on the
outskirts of Gillette, the Harley crew I met in Rawlins is just pulling out. We say hello again and wish each other safe travels. Before going to the motel I
buy dinner and a couple of beers at a supermarket. The expansion compartment in my tank bag comes in very handy. I pull into the lot at Super 8 motel
and check in. I call my wife and tell her about my day. She worries of course, and I want to alleviate those worries as much as I can. In the room I peel off
my gear and do a few Pilates exercises to stretch out my back, hips and legs. It’s been a long two days on the bike, just about 1100 miles. I look forward to
2 short riding days, and sleeping in more, before getting to my friend’s house in Canada. After a long hot shower I tuck into my dinner and a beer and relax.
Today was the first day of practice at the Isle of Man TT, so I watch that on my phone. The wonders of technology! I fall asleep without any problem, it’s been
a very good day.
Summary: 10.5 hours on the bike including breaks, 507 miles, fuel consumption 46.3 mpg.
Day 3, May 28
I slept very well, and despite the motel being right next to I 90 the night was very quiet. Today should be easy at less than 300 miles, so no need to hurry. I
am on vacation after all, and want to enjoy it. I load up the bike and set the tire pressure in the morning sun, and talk to another guest outside. I get more
compliments on the BMW and we wish each other safe travels. I head back into town for my coffee fix at the little green mermaid, then head north towards
Montana on Hwy 59. It is another nice two lane road in good condition, a gem of a motorcycle road. Passing through the Thunder Basin National Grassland,
the road follows the Little Powder River into Montana and I take a first short break at Broadus to drink some water and to clean my visor and windshield. N
of Broadus the open road and low traffic invite me to cruise around 90 mph instead of the usual 75, and the bike happily obliges.
I pull into Miles City around 12:30 and stop for gas and another break. I meet Tate, a friendly guy riding a Harley, and we talk about our respective trips. He
recommends the Beartooth Pass scenic route on my return trip, conditions permitting. We both revel in the joy of being on a bike on a day like this, and wish
each other continued safe travels before parting ways. I hop onto Interstate 94, following NE along the Yellowstone River for 38 miles before exiting at Terry.
Scenic Hwy 253 and Hwy 200 will take me the remaining 70 miles to Circle, my destination for the day. Having plenty of time, I take another pit stop at the
gas station to clean the visor and windshield. The day is pleasant and warm, so out goes the jacket liner and the vents are zipped open. I hang out for half
an hour, meeting the shop owner and some guys who want to know about my bike. This is really starting to feel like a vacation, and I treat myself to an ice
cream sandwich and a coke before the final stretch.
I continue the ride on that narrow strip of asphalt dividing an ocean of green as far as the eye can see. I take in the scenery and the scale of this land.
So much bigger than where I was born and grew up in Germany, and so very different from my home in Arizona. I feel lucky and privileged to be here,
experiencing the freedom of the ride and the friendliness and helpfulness of the people I have met. I am completely relaxed and living in the moment. I
have wanted to do a trip like this for a very long time, and doing it now gives me all that I had hoped for and then some.
I arrive in Circle just before 4 pm, so there is plenty of time to clean up and take a little walk around town later on. The motel is at the northern end of town,
right next to a gas station. I gas up, clean my visor and windshield once more and check in. I had called to reserve the day before, and the owner charges
$70 for the night instead of the 85 she had quoted on the phone. I gladly take it and settle into the room. Nothing fancy, but I don’t need fancy. Clean and quiet
is what I’m after. After a nice shower I pull on a clean T shirt and shorts and walk into town.
I find the Lunch Box open and have dinner, a barbecued chicken salad and an Italian soda. They also bake breads and pastries,
and I can’t resist a sticky cinnamon roll which will be my breakfast tomorrow morning. I enjoy the sunny evening and slowly walk
back to the motel. I have had another good day on the bike, some wind but nothing scary, and no rain. What a lucky guy I am….
I join the motel owners and some of their friends for a little conversation on the porch. One guy tells stories about riding a BMW RT
on the Alaskan highway, and I’m glad that my ride has been nothing like that so far. I relax in the room with a little more TT action
on the phone before going to sleep.
Summary: 6.5 hours on the bike including breaks, 277 miles, fuel consumption 47.5 mpg.
Day 4, May 29
Today’s ride will be even shorter than yesterday, maybe 240 miles. A very good reason not to hurry, since I don’t have to check out until
10. I walk to the gas station next door from the motel and get my coffee fix. I noticed that most of the convenience stores/gas stations now
offer a pretty good coffee selection, and I usually pick the strongest available to get me going first thing in the morning. I enjoy my coffee
and the cinnamon roll outside before packing, setting the tire pressure and loading up the bike. It is a little overcast and windy, but still very
pleasant when I pull out if Circle and north onto Hwy 13. Tailwind again, so I’m happy! The road splits endless farm fields, and once I cross
the Missouri River I enter the Fort Peck Indian Reservation. Traffic is very light, but mostly 18 wheelers on a narrow 2 lane Hwy, so I must pay
attention and give a friendly wave to any oncoming vehicles. After about 100 miles I reach Scobey, the last town before the Canadian border.
Time to fill up the bike, clean my visor and windshield, and a break. I hang out at the gas station store for about 45 minutes, chatting to the
attendant and some customers. 15 miles north of Scobey I reach the border at Port of Coronach. I am through after a few minutes without any
hassle and stick to the Canadian speed limit of 90 kph for a little bit - long enough to be clear of the border and to realize how little traffic there is
and how everyone else is driving. My route is the most direct I could find on paved 2 lane roads on the AAA map. Farm fields as far as one can
see in any direction, with the occasional farm buildings here and there to break the monotony. The topography is gently undulating, the roads
quite narrow and at times very bumpy.
I roll at around 4000 rpm in 6th gear, slowing down when I pass a little settlement and for oncoming traffic. It is about 200 km to Moose Jaw, and I arrive
there around 2 pm. I decide to stretch my legs and have a little bite to eat before continuing to my friend’s house. A friendly gas station attendant directs
me towards downtown. There are parking meters everywhere, and foolish me decides to take a chance and parks the bike without paying. A nice cafe is
just around the corner, and I won’t be more than half an hour anyway. I text my friend that I am close and will be seeing him shortly. When I return to the
motorcycle, I find the following welcome to Canada present:
Oh well, I guess I will contribute 20 Canadian bucks to the Moose Jaw municipal coffers this year. I ride another 20 minutes west on the Trans Canada Highway 1 and
north on a graded dirt road to my friend’s house in the municipality of Caronport. We haven’t seen each others in almost 10 years, so the reunion is very joyful. When
I tell him about the ticket, he smirks sheepishly and says he forgot to mention how serious the town is about parking enforcement. I smile too, since nothing can spoil
my happy feelings of having arrived safely after 4 days on the bike, without any issues whatsoever and with having had near perfect conditions each day.
I have enjoyed the ride immensely. 1610 miles in 4 days, without any bike issues. She started up every morning on the first try, and I just kept the tank filled
and set the tire pressure every morning. The oil level was low now, so after the bike had sat in the garage for a day, I put in 500 ml of my oil stash to bring
the level back to full. It had been 1646 miles since I last topped up, I consider this to be very acceptable oil consumption for a 20 year old bike.
Summary: 5.5 hrs on the bike including breaks, 237 miles, fuel consumption not calculated.
Day 5, June 3
After having spent a few days of quality time catching up with my friend, it is time to begin the ride home. I have booked room in Billings, MT, so today’s ride
will be about 450 miles. I start out in light drizzle and low 40s temperatures, quite comfortable in my riding suit, rain mitts and the heated grips on. I head west
towards Swift Current on the Trans Canada Hwy, the turn S onto Hwy 4 and the border near Monchy. The rain never becomes an issue and stops after 2 hours,
so I tolerate the cool windy conditions pretty well. The border crossing is in the middle of the prairie, and I arrive shortly after 11. The formalities are quickly
taken care of, and learn from the guard it will be 54 miles to the next gas station. After a fill up earlier in Canada I have enough to make that, no worries. I am
now on Hwy 191 and cover the distance at my usual cruising speed of 75 mph. I arrive in Malta around 12:30, time to fill up, stretch my legs and a quick lunch.
After half an hour off the bike I continue SW on Hwy 191. Road construction just outside of town means I have to manage a graded dirt road, luckily is is only
a few miles and not a problem. Once back on tarmac I am soon passed by a bunch of cars, so I speed up and soon overtake them all on the lightly travelled
road, rolling along at 90 to 100 mph. I enjoy the prairie scenery and notice active thunderstorms in the distance, but nothing on my route so far. After about an
hour the rain starts, so I slow down and look for cover at the next gas station at Grass Range. I use the short break to clean my visor and windshield, and to
check my luggage straps. Everything secured, I continue in abating rain for the last stretch into Billings. Eventually the rain stops, and I can feel the afternoon
turning warmer and noticeably humid. I roll into Billings around 5 pm. The traffic is the busiest on the trip so far. Near the motel I fill up and get some supplies
for dinner. Just as I roll under the awning of the motel to check in, a thunderstorm lets loose and dumps buckets of water. I got lucky again somehow and stay
dry. Once in my room, I peel out of my gear after another fun day riding where I had never been before. I love road trips, in case you haven’t noticed yet…
Summary: 10.5 hrs on the road including breaks, 456 miles, fuel consumption 42.3 mpg.
Day 6, June 4
No reason to hurry today, my AirBnB for the night is only 380 miles away in Rock Springs, WY. After a good breakfast at the motel I am on the road by 8:30. It is
windy right off the bat, so I prepare for a day long workout. I start on Interstate 90 going west and turn S at Laurel onto Hwy 320 and then 72. I decide to skip the
Beartooth Hwy and enjoy the scenery along the Clark Fork of the Yellowstone River, it is stunning!
Hwy 72 turns into Hwy 120 and is a beautiful motorcycle road. Very good condition, very light traffic today and with long sweeping corners. The scenery is
never disappoints, especially south of Cody, passing through the little town of Meeteetse and reaching Thermopolis. The day has become warm and sunny,
the wind is there but not an issue yet. The route continues through the Wind River Canyon, the most scenic stretch of this trip so far. The roads is very good
and follows the bends of the river in perfect rhythm to cruise along at about 70 mph. It is slightly downhill but upriver, which makes for the most interesting
visual effect.
After leaving the Canyon I ride along the shore of the Boysen Reservoir. The wind is much stronger and I really have to lean into it for the last 10 miles or so
into Shoshoni. I turn SW onto Hwy 26, the wind eases up around Riverton, and half an hour later I reach Lander. Time for a longish coffee break!
After about an hour enjoying a nice, strong coffee and a generous piece of apple walnut coffee cake I am ready to take on the remaining 120 miles to Rock Springs,
my destination for the day. Hwy 28 south of Lander is pretty scenic for the first 30 miles. Once past the crest of South Pass and the Continental Divide, it turns into a
dead straight drone for 45 miles to Farson. There I take a left onto Hwy 191 for the final 50 miles into Rock Springs. It is late afternoon, and I enjoy the beautiful light
illuminating the Leucite Hills to the east of the highway. The wind is still strong, but I am almost used to now - I am in Wyoming after all! And then, in the final half hour
of the ride, there is a herd of wild mustangs right beside the road. I pull onto the shoulder, turn off the engine and watch. They immediately notice and stare at me with
suspicion. I stay still and after a few minutes they continue doing the wild horse thing - what a joy to see!
At 5:30 pm I roll into Rock Springs WY. I fill up the bike and clean my visor and windshield. After notifying my AirBnB host I arrive just before 6 in the evening.
Another good day on the bike, and I am happy and satisfied that everything has gone well. I look forward to good night’s sleep. Tomorrow will be a much longer
day, so crawl into bed early.
Summary: 9.5 hours on the bike including breaks, 380 miles, fuel consumption 48.1 mpg.
Day 7, June 5
Today will be a long ride, my destination is Panguitch UT, more than 500 miles away. I am up early and on the bike by 6:30, taking Hwy 191 south out of Rock
Springs towards the Flaming Gorge dam. Conditions are perfect, cool and not too windy, and I enjoy the ride with no traffic this early in the day. The scenery
is high desert, and I cruise along at 80 mph until the highway drops quite steeply towards the Flaming Gorge reservoir near the Utah state line. The road inside
the National Recreation Area is already busy with boaters and fishermen, so I slow down until I’m away from the lake, headed towards Vernal and crossing an
8400 ft pass along the way. Hwy 191 passes by big mining operations north of Vernal, and drops out of the Uinta Mountains in a series of severe hairpin turns.
I am very careful here, not wanting to make a silly mistake and lay down the bike because of the debris in the road. I reach Vernal just after 8 am and continue
SW towards Duchesne. Traffic is the strongest I have seen on the entire trip, with lots of giant pickups and big rigs due to this area being the energy capital of
the state. The area between and Vernal and Duchesne is also densely populated, so it feels like driving through a 60 mile long settlement. At Duchesne I fill up
the bike and meet a friendly Gold Wing rider. We chat for a while about our rides, where from and where to, and he introduces me to Butler maps. Something to
keep in mind, since I prefer paper to digital maps on the motorcycle….
Somehow I miss the turn onto Hwy 191 and head west on Hwy 40 instead for 10 miles before I realize my error. I turn around and find the turn in Duchesne, it is
not prominently marked and may have been hidden by a big rig when I passed by the first time. That’s the excuse I came up with anyway, and I’m sticking with it!
Hwy 191 out of Duchesne leads SW through Indian Canyon, a lovely narrow valley with a creek and small farm or homestead buildings sprinkled along the way. It
culminates in a 9100 ft pass, with aspen trees beside the road, before dropping into twisties towards the junction with Hwy 6 north of Spring Glen, Carbonville and
Price. I stay on Hwy 6/191 for another 55 miles past lava flows near the road and sandstone cliffs at the southern horizon. Traffic is dense, but everyone is cruising
along between 80 and 90 mph, so I get to Interstate 70 quite soon. I head west on the interstate for 8 miles and take exit 149 to pick up Hwy 24 towards Hanksville.
Roughly 300 miles behind me, another 240 ahead of me on some of Utah’s best motorcycle roads! It is past noon and quite toasty, so time for a quick stop to shed
some layers.
I slow down a bit on Hwy 24 to take in the characteristic Utah scenery of red and tan rock cliffs, buttes and canyons. After about 10 miles I encounter road
construction and a mandatory stop until the pilot vehicle arrives. Time to stretch my legs, sip some water and meet other bikers.
This a couple of French tourists who rented a Harley in Las Vegas for a tour of the Southwest. I dig out what’s left of my high school French and we chat,
agreeing on staying together through Hanksville and Capitol Reef Natl. Park towards Torrey. We ride at a leisurely pace, since we want to soak in every bit
of this magnificent landscape. Also, my riding buddies aren’t really enjoying to the weight and handling of the Harley, they miss their Kawasaki Versys 1000
back home in France. We arrive at Torrey around 3 pm, and it’s time for a break and some refreshment.
We say our good byes and I am heading south on Hwy 12, climbing and enjoying the twisty road to the 9200 ft pass. What a road, one of the most enjoyable
ones I have been on riding a motorcycle, and I have ridden the Alps, the passes in Switzerland, the Route Napoleon in France…. perfect condition, corners
going this way and that in a beautiful rhythm. This is truly special!
From the top the highway drops down into the Grand Staircase Escalante Natl. Monument, the scenery changing from aspen forest to arid sandstone canyons
and desert. It is really spectacular how the road snakes along the top of a promontory before dropping steeply to the bottom of the canyon. No time to hurry
here, I’m slowing down and taking in every second of this special afternoon. I am not alone in this; every other traveler I see, be it in a car, RV or on motorcycle,
is taking it slowly and is smiling from ear to ear.
Past Escalante traffic becomes thinner and the road opens up quite a bit, so I increase my pace and enjoy the longer straights and big sweeping turns. It is
late afternoon and I still have about 80 miles to go. I cross the 7400 ft pass west of Escalante and drop down towards Henrieville and Cannonville, before
climbing towards Tropic and Bryce Canyon. I can already see the spectacular orange cliff face of Bryce Canyon and make a short detour to the National Park
entrance to buy my America the Beautiful senior lifetime pass s, a steal at $80. From there it’s another half hour leisurely ride down Red Canyon and the north
on Hwy 89 towards Panguitch, where I have booked a motel room for 2 nights. Tomorrow will be a tourist day, after sleeping in I plan to visit Bryce Canyon and
later in the day go to Kodachrome Basin State Park south of Cannonville. I reach the motel shortly after 6 pm, after a long ride through spectacular scenery.
Time to unwind with a nice cold one!
Summary: 11.75 hours on the bike including breaks, 542 miles, fuel consumption 48.5 mpg.
Day 8, June 6
Today is a leisurely sightseeing day, so I am in no hurry. After sleeping in, I walk along Panguitch’s main thoroughfare in search of decent breakfast. I end up at
the Flying Goat Cafe, frequented by locals and tourists alike, which turns out to be a good choice. The coffee is fresh and strong, the food very good and served
in ample portions. Some of the old timers sit at the counter carrying guns, so you better behave in there….fortified for the day, I return to the motel and get into my
riding gear. I hit the road and 30 minute later I am entering Bryce Canyon Natl. Park. I am on my best behavior respecting the speed limit, especially since I have
a Park Ranger right in front of me. I decide to drive to the end of the road and then stop at the overlooks coming back. Traffic is not too bad, and the day is picture
perfect. Time to take it easy and enjoy! Even to a trained geologist it is amazing what the interplay of time, rock type, climate and weathering will produce.
Bryce Canyon is spectacular, and worth a visit anytime. I feast my eyes and curiosity and decide to swing by the visitor’s center. The crowd is huge, what will
this place look like on a weekend? I squeeze inside the building and flee just a few minutes later, there are just too many people for my taste. Back on the bike,
I stop at one more overlook before leaving the park. The line of cars/RVs/bikes coming in looooong, so definitely time to leave. I go Hwy 12 east down the hill t
Cannonville to explore Kodachrome Basin State Park. On the access road I encounter a guy on a BMW GS coming my way, he must have playing in the dirt for
a while.
$5 gets me into the park, and what a contrast to Bryce Canyon. It is so quiet, I can hear the breeze, the chirp of the cicadas and the call of the raptors overhead.
Kodachrome Basin is quite small, a couple of campgrounds with basic amenities, a few hiking trails meandering along the rock formations. It is lovely though, so
peaceful and serene, perfect to get away from it all for a few days.
I get off the bike and wander around the park for a while, enjoying every moment and recharging my batteries for the days when I will be back at my job
in Phoenix. On the way back to Panguitch, I pull over at an inviting patio in Tropic. It’s time for a mid afternoon treat at Bryce Canyon Coffee Company. The
lady behind the counter whips up a Mocha Frappe that hits the bullseye for me. Good mocha flavor, just right amount of sweetness, and the cold creamy
texture is just perfect on a warm afternoon. I linger on the patio before mounting my steed for the short ride back to the motel. Tomorrow it’s all the way
back home, so I savor this day to the fullest. Back in Panguitch I don’t feel like going out any more, so take out food and beer from the convenience store
will do it this evening. From the motel patio, I notice the virga clouds over Pangiutch. Maybe the weather will turn tomorrow?
Summary: 7 hrs sightseeing and on the bike, 160 miles, I didn’t need to fill up the tank today.
Day 9, June 7
It is the final day of my trip, and honestly I’m ready to return home and be with my wife and dog again. I set the tire pressure, load up the bike and check out
as late as possible. On the road by 10, I take Hwy 89 south and cover the 70 miles to Kanab in about 90 minutes due to traffic and speed limits. In Kanab I gas
up, and the roadside thermometer says 93 F…yes, it’s going to be a toasty one! I decide on the scenic route that passes by the North Rim of the Grand Canyon,
so that I can delay riding in the heat as much as possible. I enjoy the climb up to Jacob Lake as the temperature drops steadily, and give a friendly wave to the
State Trooper as I roll by his truck (almost) obeying the speed limit. As the highway drops close to 5000 ft from Jacob Lake towards Navajo Bridge, I pull over at
one last scenic overlook before I am back in the desert. There is something special about that open space in Northern Arizona!
The road passes along the base of the Vermilion Cliffs, and pull in at Lees Ferry Lodge, where I met LicketySplit a couple of years ago. Nobody there, but
I take advantage of the shaded patio to have a snack, a drink, and to reset my watch to AZ time.
Properly hydrated and fueled again, I remount the bike for the 110 miles to Flagstaff. It is hot at Navajo Bridge, and I am thankful for every foot of elevation
gain as the highway climbs and merges with Hwy 89 proper at Bitter Springs. The wind is up again, so I tuck in behind a minivan that travels at my speed for
a little bit of protection. Traffic is quite busy, but I make steady progress and don’t take any unnecessary risks. In Flagstaff I will take a long break anyway, to
minimize my heat exposure on the final stretch home to Chandler. I arrive in Flag at around 3:30 and head for the green mermaid to caffeinate, get some food
and rest. The cafe is not too busy, so I occupy one of their big tables to peel out of my gear and cool off. The staff are friendly and let me spread out and clean
up, since I keep on ordering over the next 2 hours. Upon polite request, one of the girls even fills up my hydration bladder with ice. I thank her and say that she
just made my ride down to the Valley of the Sun more tolerable, and I even get a smile…..
After one last fill up, I’m on the road by 5:30 and choose the scenic route again. Lake Mary Road crosses the world’s largest contiguous stand of Ponderosa Pine
located within the Coconino National Forest, at about 7000 ft on the Colorado Plateau before merging with Hwy 87 and descending the Mogollon Rim to Strawberry
and Payson. At this time of the day, I watch out for deer and elk crossing the road, I do not want an accident in the final hours of a 9 day trip….
In Payson I take a final short break before the 80 mile stretch downhill into the Sonoran Desert and the Phoenix metro area. The temperature stays moderate until
the heat island effect of the metro area kicks in. From Hwy 87 I join the 202 freeway west, then the 101 south before the last 3 miles on surface streets. I am home
at 8:30, safe and sound, exhilarated and tired at the same time - what a trip!
Summary: 10.5 hrs on the road including breaks, 440 miles, fuel consumption 50.2 mpg since last calculated.
A few thoughts about my trip, the bike and the gear:
Is that BMW an ideal touring bike? No, not really. My main complaint is the knee angle over long distances because of my long legs. An RT or GS would be more
comfortable, even the naked boxer with a windscreen might be preferable.
How did the bike do aside from that? Perfect, not a single issue in 3672 miles. She started up every day, all I did was check tires, put in gas and some oil. I got at
least 200 miles out of every tank, much more as the trip went on. The power is enough to have fun without becoming scary, and the boxer characteristic is perfect
for touring. This engine lives between 4000 and 6000 rpm, and will do more all day long if need be. The half fairing provides decent wind protection, and even tall
persons can hide in the bubble at very high speed. Handling is stable and compliant, the bike is better in long sweepers than in tight twisties, but that’s what most
roads on this trip were like anyway. Brakes are good, no complaints at all. My simple luggage set up worked really well. The dry bag came with nice straps, which
I attached to the subframe under the seat and the triangular plastic horns behind the seat. With practice I got them on and off within a minute.
All in all, this bike is very competent and I am pleasantly surprised how well she did despite being 20 years old. I think the combination of initial build quality and
proper maintenance makes a bike like this last and perform. She got me there and back without a hiccup, she’s definitely a keeper!
As to the riding gear, I do like that RST suit with one exception. It is comfortable, has sufficient protection, enough pockets for essentials, good ventilation, and the
thermal/waterproof liners kept me toasty. The pocket for the hydration bladder is too small though. I could fit my bladder, but it would soon start leaking, most
likely because of too much pressure on the connection between the bladder and the tubing. The RST pants are nicely made and fit well. The knee pads can be
adjusted and for me they were more comfortable in the lower position.
I like the Arai helmet, it is comfortable all day and has plenty of adjustable vents. I had trouble with a sticky visor mechanism; the fix is to take it apart and wipe it
clean every day.
That’s my ride report, I hope you didn’t get bored too much. I look forward to your comments and/or questions.
ASwabianinAZ
trip after having gotten back into motorcycling.
Having ridden bikes from the late 1970s to the mid 1990s, I decided in the fall of 2020 to give myself a belated 60th birthday
present, a 2004 BMW R1100S. She had about 16k miles and was in rideable shape, but needed some love. A trustworthy
motorcycle shop (not the local BMW dealer….) put her right and I started to go on weekend day rides.
After having had the pleasure of meeting and chatting with LicketySplit a couple of years ago at Lees Ferry, I wanted to take the
iron horse on a multi-day trip. Our plans to ride together haven’t worked out yet, so this spring, I decided to visit an old college
friend in Canada on the bike, and then return to Arizona before the summer heat sets in. My destination was Moose Jaw, SK,
about 1600 miles from my home in Chandler in the SE part of the Phoenix metro area, on the most direct route I was planning.
I was looking to ride on 2 lane roads as much as possible, without spending a lot of time on interstate highways. My friend and I
agreed on me arriving in Canada on May 29, so I planned to leave on Sunday, May 26. I split the route into 2 longish days, followed
by 2 short days further north. My overnight stays would be either AirBnBs or motels. Day 1would end in Grand Junction, CO. Day 2
Grand Junction CO to Gillette WY. Day 3 Gillette WY to Circle MT. Day 4 Circle MT to Moose Jaw, SK.
I needed to travel light since this BMW is not equipped with luggage, and I wasn’t going to spend the $ to do so. I still had a soft
expandable RKA tank bag with map case for essentials, and got a 40L roll-up dry bag to strap onto the pillion seat. My main
concern was comfort on the bike, so I packed accordingly:
- stretchy wicking base layers and tops for cool and hot weather
- off the bike clothing, rain jacket, beanie, swimsuit
- spare riding gloves and neck gaiters, rain over-mitts
- small toiletry and first aid kit
- small compressor with charging cable (works for my cell phone too)
- Optimate battery tender
- 1 liter of Motul 7100 15W-50 oil
- hydration bladder, small water bottle
- travel coffee mug
- AAA roadmaps for AZ, UT, CO, WY, MT, SK
My riding gear is an RST Adventure X suit with thermal/waterproof liner, back support/kidney belt, neck gaiter, earplugs,
leather gloves and boots, Arai Regent X helmet.
I must admit that I was quite nervous about going on this solo trip. My top worries were wind, wind, and more wind. I’ve been
riding enough in such conditions to know how unpleasant and dangerous it can be, and certainly didn’t want to spend hour
after hour wrestling crosswinds. Another worry was the weather. Although the forecast for the trip was quite good, you just never
know. In case of extreme weather I would adjust my route and/or the timetable. The third concern was the bike. Since I’ve only
ridden her once or twice a month, I always had her on the battery tender between outings. I worried she might not start in the
morning, and took the battery tender along just to be safe.
I promised my wife to ride during daylight hours only, and with a full tank and bags packed was set to leave Chandler on May 26
at 4:30 am. I wanted to beat Memorial Day weekend traffic out of the Phoenix metro area, and would loose an hour when entering
the Navajo Nation territory.
Day 1, May 26
Got up at 3:45 and into my riding gear. Doublechecked everything (drivers license and bike papers, passport etc), set tire pressure,
kissed my wife and dog goodbye, and hit Interstate 17 at 4:30.
Daylight came around 5 am, just as I was reaching Anthem north of Phoenix. Temps were very pleasant, and I settled into a comfortable
speed around 4000 rpm in 6th gear, 75 mph. Very light traffic made the climb past Black Canyon City a joy, and once on the plateau I
soaked in the early morning sunshine. Half an hour later I descended into the Verde River Valley, still keeping the bike humming along
around 4000 rpm. My worries had receded to the back of my mind, I was enjoying the ride and looking forward to whatever was going to
happen. Climbing up to the Coconino Plateau I turned on the heated grips (thanks BMW!) and thought about my first coffee break in
Flagstaff. The little green mermaid was beckoning, and I had made pretty good time. Filling up the tank and getting caffeinated took about
half an hour, and I was heading N out of Flagstaff before 8 am. I continued on Hwy 89 north, then turned east onto Hwy 160 towards Tuba
City and Kayenta. Time to adjust my watch and another fill up of the bike. Even though I could squeeze about 200 miles out of the 4.8 gal
tank, gas stations in this area are few and far between, and pushing the limit of your range is not a good idea. Plus getting off the bike
and stretching my legs every other hour or so helps on long days like this. 300 miles down, roughly another 300 to go. I turned north onto
Hwy 163 towards Monument Valley and Mexican Hat. Traffic was still pretty light, except for the point where the Forest Gump scene
had been filmed. I enjoyed the ride past Monument Valley but didn’t stop for photos. I have beautiful memories from a trip almost 20
years earlier when my wife, our daughter and I went horseback riding with a Navajo guide in much quieter times…
There is something about traveling through the wide open spaces of the Navajo Nation and the red rock country of the desert Southwest.
My day to day worries of life in the big city are being pushed back by the scale and grandeur of the landscape. My mind and my senses
are tuning into this atmosphere, and I am filled with the joy and peace of every moment.
About 20 miles past Mexican Hat I merged onto Hwy 191, past the little town of Bluff and the Junction of Hwy 95, a road for a future trip.
I pass Blanding and take another short break in Monticello, stretching my legs. The breeze picks up, as does the temperature, but still
quite pleasant. Another hour has me approaching Moab, now with noticeably more traffic. It’s time for a longer break, some food and
drink. I fill up the bike once more and decide to rest until about 3:30. I remove the thermal liner of my jacket and open all the vents. I
skip Arches National Park due to traffic and its summer access policy, and instead take Hwy 128 going upstream along the Colorado
River. A beautiful road in very good condition, albeit very busy for the first few miles past Moab. There is a separate lane for bicycles,
and plenty of campgrounds and access points to the river. Very cool, I like it! Roughly 50 miles later I merge onto I 70 east heading to
Grand Junction CO, my destination for the day. I am longing to get off the bike, a nice shower, some food and comfy bed, so I up the
pace and arrive in Grand Junction just before 6 pm. Before heading to the AirBnB I gas up once more and buy some Safeway fried
chicken for dinner. My host for the night is a lovely elderly lady with 3 little dogs, living in a brand new house. She tells me to make
myself at home, and after cleaning up, having dinner and a little conversation I am happy to go to sleep.
Summary: 12.5 hour trip including breaks, 595 miles, fuel consumption 45.4 mpg.
Day 2, May 27
No crazy wakeup time today, even though it’s another 500+ mile day to reach Gillette WY, where I have a motel reservation. I slept
very well and wake up shortly after 6. After a quick shower I put on my gear, with the liner zipped into the pants due to the altitude of
my route. My gracious host is already up and about and I give her a hand with some small things around the house . She offers me
a cup of coffee which I gladly accept. I set my tire pressure and strap the luggage to the bike. Then the big moment, will she start?
A quick turn of the throttle before I turn the key. I pull the choke and wait for the slow blip of the light on the left of the handle bar, then
push the starter. She starts right up and let her idle while saying good bye and thank you to my host. I am very happy and on the road
by 7:30. Today’s route continues on Interstate 70 another 60 miles, and then turns north at Rifle onto Hwy 13. Once I make that turn I
am on terra incognito. Hwy 13 runs N along the western slope of the Rockies and is a very enjoyable motorcycle road. It starts with long
straights and big sweepers, becoming more twisty once you’re past Meeker. Then suddenly the road goes from grey to reddish brown,
due to millions and millions of freshly hatched crickets crossing the road in search of food. This lasts for a few miles, and I slow down
considerably - coming off the bike because of insects on the road isn’t something I want on my record. I arrive in Craig before 10 am and
fill up. It’s a beautiful ride, and my gear and the heated grips keep me comfortable on this sunny, mid 40s morning. I leave Craig for the
Wyoming state line and am presented with this lovely sight of the Elkhead Mountains.
Colorado Hwy 13 turns into Wyoming Hwy 789, and I ride across the high desert studded with pumpjacks towards Interstate 80. The wind has picked up
considerably, somewhat annoying but not scary. I merge onto I 80 at Crescent Junction and let my bike gallop the 25 miles to Rawlins. I enjoy the tailwind,
winding the boxer to 7000 rpm in 6th gear, and then settle just below 6000 rpm. These bikes were built to run at speeds of 100 mph and more all day, and
mine does it enthusiastically and with superb stability. I arrive at big Maverik station just before noon for another fill up and a longish lunch break.
I meet a group of Harley riders pulling trailers. They turn out to be snowbirds on their way back to North Dakota. I even get compliments on my bike, very
cool and much appreciated! The wind keeps blowing strongly and steadily, and I realize it will be like that for the remainder of the day. About 240 miles to
go. The wind is now coming from the south, so the first 40 miles from Rawlins to Muddy Gap are not bad at all. After turning onto Hwy 220 going ENE I
huddle behind the fairing, keep a light grip on the handlebars and lean into that wind. It’s blowing pretty steadily, so no problem and no scary moments.
I enjoy the scenery of Independence Rock State Historic Site, the Pathfinder Bird Refuge and the North Platte River. The landscape has changed from
high desert to prairie. I arrive in Casper and somehow miss the turn N towards Gillette. Since I need more gas anyway, I pull into a station and ask for help.
A friendly couple riding Harleys offers to escort me to the turnoff and I am very appreciative. Camaraderie among bikers, enough said! I leave Casper on
US Hwy 87, then take Wyoming 259 to Wyoming 387. The road is in good shape and quite enjoyable, though that wind is wearing me out. Thankfully I
have less than 100 miles to go. I get relief when I turn north onto Hwy 59 for the last 38 miles into Gillette. Tailwind, I missed you so much my friend! The
late afternoon is sunny and beautiful if somewhat chilly, what with me living in Arizona and very windy 50s temperatures. As I pull into a gas station on the
outskirts of Gillette, the Harley crew I met in Rawlins is just pulling out. We say hello again and wish each other safe travels. Before going to the motel I
buy dinner and a couple of beers at a supermarket. The expansion compartment in my tank bag comes in very handy. I pull into the lot at Super 8 motel
and check in. I call my wife and tell her about my day. She worries of course, and I want to alleviate those worries as much as I can. In the room I peel off
my gear and do a few Pilates exercises to stretch out my back, hips and legs. It’s been a long two days on the bike, just about 1100 miles. I look forward to
2 short riding days, and sleeping in more, before getting to my friend’s house in Canada. After a long hot shower I tuck into my dinner and a beer and relax.
Today was the first day of practice at the Isle of Man TT, so I watch that on my phone. The wonders of technology! I fall asleep without any problem, it’s been
a very good day.
Summary: 10.5 hours on the bike including breaks, 507 miles, fuel consumption 46.3 mpg.
Day 3, May 28
I slept very well, and despite the motel being right next to I 90 the night was very quiet. Today should be easy at less than 300 miles, so no need to hurry. I
am on vacation after all, and want to enjoy it. I load up the bike and set the tire pressure in the morning sun, and talk to another guest outside. I get more
compliments on the BMW and we wish each other safe travels. I head back into town for my coffee fix at the little green mermaid, then head north towards
Montana on Hwy 59. It is another nice two lane road in good condition, a gem of a motorcycle road. Passing through the Thunder Basin National Grassland,
the road follows the Little Powder River into Montana and I take a first short break at Broadus to drink some water and to clean my visor and windshield. N
of Broadus the open road and low traffic invite me to cruise around 90 mph instead of the usual 75, and the bike happily obliges.
I pull into Miles City around 12:30 and stop for gas and another break. I meet Tate, a friendly guy riding a Harley, and we talk about our respective trips. He
recommends the Beartooth Pass scenic route on my return trip, conditions permitting. We both revel in the joy of being on a bike on a day like this, and wish
each other continued safe travels before parting ways. I hop onto Interstate 94, following NE along the Yellowstone River for 38 miles before exiting at Terry.
Scenic Hwy 253 and Hwy 200 will take me the remaining 70 miles to Circle, my destination for the day. Having plenty of time, I take another pit stop at the
gas station to clean the visor and windshield. The day is pleasant and warm, so out goes the jacket liner and the vents are zipped open. I hang out for half
an hour, meeting the shop owner and some guys who want to know about my bike. This is really starting to feel like a vacation, and I treat myself to an ice
cream sandwich and a coke before the final stretch.
I continue the ride on that narrow strip of asphalt dividing an ocean of green as far as the eye can see. I take in the scenery and the scale of this land.
So much bigger than where I was born and grew up in Germany, and so very different from my home in Arizona. I feel lucky and privileged to be here,
experiencing the freedom of the ride and the friendliness and helpfulness of the people I have met. I am completely relaxed and living in the moment. I
have wanted to do a trip like this for a very long time, and doing it now gives me all that I had hoped for and then some.
I arrive in Circle just before 4 pm, so there is plenty of time to clean up and take a little walk around town later on. The motel is at the northern end of town,
right next to a gas station. I gas up, clean my visor and windshield once more and check in. I had called to reserve the day before, and the owner charges
$70 for the night instead of the 85 she had quoted on the phone. I gladly take it and settle into the room. Nothing fancy, but I don’t need fancy. Clean and quiet
is what I’m after. After a nice shower I pull on a clean T shirt and shorts and walk into town.
I find the Lunch Box open and have dinner, a barbecued chicken salad and an Italian soda. They also bake breads and pastries,
and I can’t resist a sticky cinnamon roll which will be my breakfast tomorrow morning. I enjoy the sunny evening and slowly walk
back to the motel. I have had another good day on the bike, some wind but nothing scary, and no rain. What a lucky guy I am….
I join the motel owners and some of their friends for a little conversation on the porch. One guy tells stories about riding a BMW RT
on the Alaskan highway, and I’m glad that my ride has been nothing like that so far. I relax in the room with a little more TT action
on the phone before going to sleep.
Summary: 6.5 hours on the bike including breaks, 277 miles, fuel consumption 47.5 mpg.
Day 4, May 29
Today’s ride will be even shorter than yesterday, maybe 240 miles. A very good reason not to hurry, since I don’t have to check out until
10. I walk to the gas station next door from the motel and get my coffee fix. I noticed that most of the convenience stores/gas stations now
offer a pretty good coffee selection, and I usually pick the strongest available to get me going first thing in the morning. I enjoy my coffee
and the cinnamon roll outside before packing, setting the tire pressure and loading up the bike. It is a little overcast and windy, but still very
pleasant when I pull out if Circle and north onto Hwy 13. Tailwind again, so I’m happy! The road splits endless farm fields, and once I cross
the Missouri River I enter the Fort Peck Indian Reservation. Traffic is very light, but mostly 18 wheelers on a narrow 2 lane Hwy, so I must pay
attention and give a friendly wave to any oncoming vehicles. After about 100 miles I reach Scobey, the last town before the Canadian border.
Time to fill up the bike, clean my visor and windshield, and a break. I hang out at the gas station store for about 45 minutes, chatting to the
attendant and some customers. 15 miles north of Scobey I reach the border at Port of Coronach. I am through after a few minutes without any
hassle and stick to the Canadian speed limit of 90 kph for a little bit - long enough to be clear of the border and to realize how little traffic there is
and how everyone else is driving. My route is the most direct I could find on paved 2 lane roads on the AAA map. Farm fields as far as one can
see in any direction, with the occasional farm buildings here and there to break the monotony. The topography is gently undulating, the roads
quite narrow and at times very bumpy.
I roll at around 4000 rpm in 6th gear, slowing down when I pass a little settlement and for oncoming traffic. It is about 200 km to Moose Jaw, and I arrive
there around 2 pm. I decide to stretch my legs and have a little bite to eat before continuing to my friend’s house. A friendly gas station attendant directs
me towards downtown. There are parking meters everywhere, and foolish me decides to take a chance and parks the bike without paying. A nice cafe is
just around the corner, and I won’t be more than half an hour anyway. I text my friend that I am close and will be seeing him shortly. When I return to the
motorcycle, I find the following welcome to Canada present:
Oh well, I guess I will contribute 20 Canadian bucks to the Moose Jaw municipal coffers this year. I ride another 20 minutes west on the Trans Canada Highway 1 and
north on a graded dirt road to my friend’s house in the municipality of Caronport. We haven’t seen each others in almost 10 years, so the reunion is very joyful. When
I tell him about the ticket, he smirks sheepishly and says he forgot to mention how serious the town is about parking enforcement. I smile too, since nothing can spoil
my happy feelings of having arrived safely after 4 days on the bike, without any issues whatsoever and with having had near perfect conditions each day.
I have enjoyed the ride immensely. 1610 miles in 4 days, without any bike issues. She started up every morning on the first try, and I just kept the tank filled
and set the tire pressure every morning. The oil level was low now, so after the bike had sat in the garage for a day, I put in 500 ml of my oil stash to bring
the level back to full. It had been 1646 miles since I last topped up, I consider this to be very acceptable oil consumption for a 20 year old bike.
Summary: 5.5 hrs on the bike including breaks, 237 miles, fuel consumption not calculated.
Day 5, June 3
After having spent a few days of quality time catching up with my friend, it is time to begin the ride home. I have booked room in Billings, MT, so today’s ride
will be about 450 miles. I start out in light drizzle and low 40s temperatures, quite comfortable in my riding suit, rain mitts and the heated grips on. I head west
towards Swift Current on the Trans Canada Hwy, the turn S onto Hwy 4 and the border near Monchy. The rain never becomes an issue and stops after 2 hours,
so I tolerate the cool windy conditions pretty well. The border crossing is in the middle of the prairie, and I arrive shortly after 11. The formalities are quickly
taken care of, and learn from the guard it will be 54 miles to the next gas station. After a fill up earlier in Canada I have enough to make that, no worries. I am
now on Hwy 191 and cover the distance at my usual cruising speed of 75 mph. I arrive in Malta around 12:30, time to fill up, stretch my legs and a quick lunch.
After half an hour off the bike I continue SW on Hwy 191. Road construction just outside of town means I have to manage a graded dirt road, luckily is is only
a few miles and not a problem. Once back on tarmac I am soon passed by a bunch of cars, so I speed up and soon overtake them all on the lightly travelled
road, rolling along at 90 to 100 mph. I enjoy the prairie scenery and notice active thunderstorms in the distance, but nothing on my route so far. After about an
hour the rain starts, so I slow down and look for cover at the next gas station at Grass Range. I use the short break to clean my visor and windshield, and to
check my luggage straps. Everything secured, I continue in abating rain for the last stretch into Billings. Eventually the rain stops, and I can feel the afternoon
turning warmer and noticeably humid. I roll into Billings around 5 pm. The traffic is the busiest on the trip so far. Near the motel I fill up and get some supplies
for dinner. Just as I roll under the awning of the motel to check in, a thunderstorm lets loose and dumps buckets of water. I got lucky again somehow and stay
dry. Once in my room, I peel out of my gear after another fun day riding where I had never been before. I love road trips, in case you haven’t noticed yet…
Summary: 10.5 hrs on the road including breaks, 456 miles, fuel consumption 42.3 mpg.
Day 6, June 4
No reason to hurry today, my AirBnB for the night is only 380 miles away in Rock Springs, WY. After a good breakfast at the motel I am on the road by 8:30. It is
windy right off the bat, so I prepare for a day long workout. I start on Interstate 90 going west and turn S at Laurel onto Hwy 320 and then 72. I decide to skip the
Beartooth Hwy and enjoy the scenery along the Clark Fork of the Yellowstone River, it is stunning!
Hwy 72 turns into Hwy 120 and is a beautiful motorcycle road. Very good condition, very light traffic today and with long sweeping corners. The scenery is
never disappoints, especially south of Cody, passing through the little town of Meeteetse and reaching Thermopolis. The day has become warm and sunny,
the wind is there but not an issue yet. The route continues through the Wind River Canyon, the most scenic stretch of this trip so far. The roads is very good
and follows the bends of the river in perfect rhythm to cruise along at about 70 mph. It is slightly downhill but upriver, which makes for the most interesting
visual effect.
After leaving the Canyon I ride along the shore of the Boysen Reservoir. The wind is much stronger and I really have to lean into it for the last 10 miles or so
into Shoshoni. I turn SW onto Hwy 26, the wind eases up around Riverton, and half an hour later I reach Lander. Time for a longish coffee break!
After about an hour enjoying a nice, strong coffee and a generous piece of apple walnut coffee cake I am ready to take on the remaining 120 miles to Rock Springs,
my destination for the day. Hwy 28 south of Lander is pretty scenic for the first 30 miles. Once past the crest of South Pass and the Continental Divide, it turns into a
dead straight drone for 45 miles to Farson. There I take a left onto Hwy 191 for the final 50 miles into Rock Springs. It is late afternoon, and I enjoy the beautiful light
illuminating the Leucite Hills to the east of the highway. The wind is still strong, but I am almost used to now - I am in Wyoming after all! And then, in the final half hour
of the ride, there is a herd of wild mustangs right beside the road. I pull onto the shoulder, turn off the engine and watch. They immediately notice and stare at me with
suspicion. I stay still and after a few minutes they continue doing the wild horse thing - what a joy to see!
At 5:30 pm I roll into Rock Springs WY. I fill up the bike and clean my visor and windshield. After notifying my AirBnB host I arrive just before 6 in the evening.
Another good day on the bike, and I am happy and satisfied that everything has gone well. I look forward to good night’s sleep. Tomorrow will be a much longer
day, so crawl into bed early.
Summary: 9.5 hours on the bike including breaks, 380 miles, fuel consumption 48.1 mpg.
Day 7, June 5
Today will be a long ride, my destination is Panguitch UT, more than 500 miles away. I am up early and on the bike by 6:30, taking Hwy 191 south out of Rock
Springs towards the Flaming Gorge dam. Conditions are perfect, cool and not too windy, and I enjoy the ride with no traffic this early in the day. The scenery
is high desert, and I cruise along at 80 mph until the highway drops quite steeply towards the Flaming Gorge reservoir near the Utah state line. The road inside
the National Recreation Area is already busy with boaters and fishermen, so I slow down until I’m away from the lake, headed towards Vernal and crossing an
8400 ft pass along the way. Hwy 191 passes by big mining operations north of Vernal, and drops out of the Uinta Mountains in a series of severe hairpin turns.
I am very careful here, not wanting to make a silly mistake and lay down the bike because of the debris in the road. I reach Vernal just after 8 am and continue
SW towards Duchesne. Traffic is the strongest I have seen on the entire trip, with lots of giant pickups and big rigs due to this area being the energy capital of
the state. The area between and Vernal and Duchesne is also densely populated, so it feels like driving through a 60 mile long settlement. At Duchesne I fill up
the bike and meet a friendly Gold Wing rider. We chat for a while about our rides, where from and where to, and he introduces me to Butler maps. Something to
keep in mind, since I prefer paper to digital maps on the motorcycle….
Somehow I miss the turn onto Hwy 191 and head west on Hwy 40 instead for 10 miles before I realize my error. I turn around and find the turn in Duchesne, it is
not prominently marked and may have been hidden by a big rig when I passed by the first time. That’s the excuse I came up with anyway, and I’m sticking with it!
Hwy 191 out of Duchesne leads SW through Indian Canyon, a lovely narrow valley with a creek and small farm or homestead buildings sprinkled along the way. It
culminates in a 9100 ft pass, with aspen trees beside the road, before dropping into twisties towards the junction with Hwy 6 north of Spring Glen, Carbonville and
Price. I stay on Hwy 6/191 for another 55 miles past lava flows near the road and sandstone cliffs at the southern horizon. Traffic is dense, but everyone is cruising
along between 80 and 90 mph, so I get to Interstate 70 quite soon. I head west on the interstate for 8 miles and take exit 149 to pick up Hwy 24 towards Hanksville.
Roughly 300 miles behind me, another 240 ahead of me on some of Utah’s best motorcycle roads! It is past noon and quite toasty, so time for a quick stop to shed
some layers.
I slow down a bit on Hwy 24 to take in the characteristic Utah scenery of red and tan rock cliffs, buttes and canyons. After about 10 miles I encounter road
construction and a mandatory stop until the pilot vehicle arrives. Time to stretch my legs, sip some water and meet other bikers.
This a couple of French tourists who rented a Harley in Las Vegas for a tour of the Southwest. I dig out what’s left of my high school French and we chat,
agreeing on staying together through Hanksville and Capitol Reef Natl. Park towards Torrey. We ride at a leisurely pace, since we want to soak in every bit
of this magnificent landscape. Also, my riding buddies aren’t really enjoying to the weight and handling of the Harley, they miss their Kawasaki Versys 1000
back home in France. We arrive at Torrey around 3 pm, and it’s time for a break and some refreshment.
We say our good byes and I am heading south on Hwy 12, climbing and enjoying the twisty road to the 9200 ft pass. What a road, one of the most enjoyable
ones I have been on riding a motorcycle, and I have ridden the Alps, the passes in Switzerland, the Route Napoleon in France…. perfect condition, corners
going this way and that in a beautiful rhythm. This is truly special!
From the top the highway drops down into the Grand Staircase Escalante Natl. Monument, the scenery changing from aspen forest to arid sandstone canyons
and desert. It is really spectacular how the road snakes along the top of a promontory before dropping steeply to the bottom of the canyon. No time to hurry
here, I’m slowing down and taking in every second of this special afternoon. I am not alone in this; every other traveler I see, be it in a car, RV or on motorcycle,
is taking it slowly and is smiling from ear to ear.
Past Escalante traffic becomes thinner and the road opens up quite a bit, so I increase my pace and enjoy the longer straights and big sweeping turns. It is
late afternoon and I still have about 80 miles to go. I cross the 7400 ft pass west of Escalante and drop down towards Henrieville and Cannonville, before
climbing towards Tropic and Bryce Canyon. I can already see the spectacular orange cliff face of Bryce Canyon and make a short detour to the National Park
entrance to buy my America the Beautiful senior lifetime pass s, a steal at $80. From there it’s another half hour leisurely ride down Red Canyon and the north
on Hwy 89 towards Panguitch, where I have booked a motel room for 2 nights. Tomorrow will be a tourist day, after sleeping in I plan to visit Bryce Canyon and
later in the day go to Kodachrome Basin State Park south of Cannonville. I reach the motel shortly after 6 pm, after a long ride through spectacular scenery.
Time to unwind with a nice cold one!
Summary: 11.75 hours on the bike including breaks, 542 miles, fuel consumption 48.5 mpg.
Day 8, June 6
Today is a leisurely sightseeing day, so I am in no hurry. After sleeping in, I walk along Panguitch’s main thoroughfare in search of decent breakfast. I end up at
the Flying Goat Cafe, frequented by locals and tourists alike, which turns out to be a good choice. The coffee is fresh and strong, the food very good and served
in ample portions. Some of the old timers sit at the counter carrying guns, so you better behave in there….fortified for the day, I return to the motel and get into my
riding gear. I hit the road and 30 minute later I am entering Bryce Canyon Natl. Park. I am on my best behavior respecting the speed limit, especially since I have
a Park Ranger right in front of me. I decide to drive to the end of the road and then stop at the overlooks coming back. Traffic is not too bad, and the day is picture
perfect. Time to take it easy and enjoy! Even to a trained geologist it is amazing what the interplay of time, rock type, climate and weathering will produce.
Bryce Canyon is spectacular, and worth a visit anytime. I feast my eyes and curiosity and decide to swing by the visitor’s center. The crowd is huge, what will
this place look like on a weekend? I squeeze inside the building and flee just a few minutes later, there are just too many people for my taste. Back on the bike,
I stop at one more overlook before leaving the park. The line of cars/RVs/bikes coming in looooong, so definitely time to leave. I go Hwy 12 east down the hill t
Cannonville to explore Kodachrome Basin State Park. On the access road I encounter a guy on a BMW GS coming my way, he must have playing in the dirt for
a while.
$5 gets me into the park, and what a contrast to Bryce Canyon. It is so quiet, I can hear the breeze, the chirp of the cicadas and the call of the raptors overhead.
Kodachrome Basin is quite small, a couple of campgrounds with basic amenities, a few hiking trails meandering along the rock formations. It is lovely though, so
peaceful and serene, perfect to get away from it all for a few days.
I get off the bike and wander around the park for a while, enjoying every moment and recharging my batteries for the days when I will be back at my job
in Phoenix. On the way back to Panguitch, I pull over at an inviting patio in Tropic. It’s time for a mid afternoon treat at Bryce Canyon Coffee Company. The
lady behind the counter whips up a Mocha Frappe that hits the bullseye for me. Good mocha flavor, just right amount of sweetness, and the cold creamy
texture is just perfect on a warm afternoon. I linger on the patio before mounting my steed for the short ride back to the motel. Tomorrow it’s all the way
back home, so I savor this day to the fullest. Back in Panguitch I don’t feel like going out any more, so take out food and beer from the convenience store
will do it this evening. From the motel patio, I notice the virga clouds over Pangiutch. Maybe the weather will turn tomorrow?
Summary: 7 hrs sightseeing and on the bike, 160 miles, I didn’t need to fill up the tank today.
Day 9, June 7
It is the final day of my trip, and honestly I’m ready to return home and be with my wife and dog again. I set the tire pressure, load up the bike and check out
as late as possible. On the road by 10, I take Hwy 89 south and cover the 70 miles to Kanab in about 90 minutes due to traffic and speed limits. In Kanab I gas
up, and the roadside thermometer says 93 F…yes, it’s going to be a toasty one! I decide on the scenic route that passes by the North Rim of the Grand Canyon,
so that I can delay riding in the heat as much as possible. I enjoy the climb up to Jacob Lake as the temperature drops steadily, and give a friendly wave to the
State Trooper as I roll by his truck (almost) obeying the speed limit. As the highway drops close to 5000 ft from Jacob Lake towards Navajo Bridge, I pull over at
one last scenic overlook before I am back in the desert. There is something special about that open space in Northern Arizona!
The road passes along the base of the Vermilion Cliffs, and pull in at Lees Ferry Lodge, where I met LicketySplit a couple of years ago. Nobody there, but
I take advantage of the shaded patio to have a snack, a drink, and to reset my watch to AZ time.
Properly hydrated and fueled again, I remount the bike for the 110 miles to Flagstaff. It is hot at Navajo Bridge, and I am thankful for every foot of elevation
gain as the highway climbs and merges with Hwy 89 proper at Bitter Springs. The wind is up again, so I tuck in behind a minivan that travels at my speed for
a little bit of protection. Traffic is quite busy, but I make steady progress and don’t take any unnecessary risks. In Flagstaff I will take a long break anyway, to
minimize my heat exposure on the final stretch home to Chandler. I arrive in Flag at around 3:30 and head for the green mermaid to caffeinate, get some food
and rest. The cafe is not too busy, so I occupy one of their big tables to peel out of my gear and cool off. The staff are friendly and let me spread out and clean
up, since I keep on ordering over the next 2 hours. Upon polite request, one of the girls even fills up my hydration bladder with ice. I thank her and say that she
just made my ride down to the Valley of the Sun more tolerable, and I even get a smile…..
After one last fill up, I’m on the road by 5:30 and choose the scenic route again. Lake Mary Road crosses the world’s largest contiguous stand of Ponderosa Pine
located within the Coconino National Forest, at about 7000 ft on the Colorado Plateau before merging with Hwy 87 and descending the Mogollon Rim to Strawberry
and Payson. At this time of the day, I watch out for deer and elk crossing the road, I do not want an accident in the final hours of a 9 day trip….
In Payson I take a final short break before the 80 mile stretch downhill into the Sonoran Desert and the Phoenix metro area. The temperature stays moderate until
the heat island effect of the metro area kicks in. From Hwy 87 I join the 202 freeway west, then the 101 south before the last 3 miles on surface streets. I am home
at 8:30, safe and sound, exhilarated and tired at the same time - what a trip!
Summary: 10.5 hrs on the road including breaks, 440 miles, fuel consumption 50.2 mpg since last calculated.
A few thoughts about my trip, the bike and the gear:
Is that BMW an ideal touring bike? No, not really. My main complaint is the knee angle over long distances because of my long legs. An RT or GS would be more
comfortable, even the naked boxer with a windscreen might be preferable.
How did the bike do aside from that? Perfect, not a single issue in 3672 miles. She started up every day, all I did was check tires, put in gas and some oil. I got at
least 200 miles out of every tank, much more as the trip went on. The power is enough to have fun without becoming scary, and the boxer characteristic is perfect
for touring. This engine lives between 4000 and 6000 rpm, and will do more all day long if need be. The half fairing provides decent wind protection, and even tall
persons can hide in the bubble at very high speed. Handling is stable and compliant, the bike is better in long sweepers than in tight twisties, but that’s what most
roads on this trip were like anyway. Brakes are good, no complaints at all. My simple luggage set up worked really well. The dry bag came with nice straps, which
I attached to the subframe under the seat and the triangular plastic horns behind the seat. With practice I got them on and off within a minute.
All in all, this bike is very competent and I am pleasantly surprised how well she did despite being 20 years old. I think the combination of initial build quality and
proper maintenance makes a bike like this last and perform. She got me there and back without a hiccup, she’s definitely a keeper!
As to the riding gear, I do like that RST suit with one exception. It is comfortable, has sufficient protection, enough pockets for essentials, good ventilation, and the
thermal/waterproof liners kept me toasty. The pocket for the hydration bladder is too small though. I could fit my bladder, but it would soon start leaking, most
likely because of too much pressure on the connection between the bladder and the tubing. The RST pants are nicely made and fit well. The knee pads can be
adjusted and for me they were more comfortable in the lower position.
I like the Arai helmet, it is comfortable all day and has plenty of adjustable vents. I had trouble with a sticky visor mechanism; the fix is to take it apart and wipe it
clean every day.
That’s my ride report, I hope you didn’t get bored too much. I look forward to your comments and/or questions.
ASwabianinAZ
