Day 1: The Pre-Quest for the Quest For Chili
A plan was hatched and oh, what a plan it was:
The Quest For Chili.
The moons had aligned and the trip for Tom, Duke, and myself got underway in the late evening on Halloween. For me, this meant already being in my pajamas at work and simply transitioning those same PJs to the cab of the truck for the long drive west. We all hit the powder room one last time, loaded up, and headed out.
Duke’s (dixonduke) plan for the weekend involved both paved and unpaved riding, hence the need for a truck and trailer. Having already ridden the boring, flat, and straight route there and back myself in the past, I gladly accepted his offer to add more bikes and riders to his mode of transport.
The Katy Freeway.
Interstate 10.
The highway that connects two oceans.
It’s a freeway without character, but it serves its purpose well. Without lifeless freeways we could not so easily span the continent on journeys, trips, and adventures.
Every now and then these continental arteries are closed. A minor stroke, if you will, in the flow of the country‘s travelers. One such coagulation presented itself in San Antonio and forced a few loops and detoured backtracking just to stay on the same road we’d been on for the last three hours.
Very appropriately, we decided to watch the first episode of Long Way Down on a video iPod thingy - like a docking staion, but we piped the audio through the truck’s aux input. If there was a way to travel more comfortably across this huge state on wheels, I don’t know what it could possibly be.
The GPS displayed the ever-increasing altitude as we crossed through the Hill Country. As it was now well past midnight, the deer were everywhere and I was glad to have the protection of the cage around me. If I’d been on the bike, things could get ugly out there.
As the clock continued to tick away the minutes, late night ended somewhere and early morning had taken its place. Mollie was awake and checking in while preparing to throw a leg over and meet the other Houston-area riders for their two-wheeled version of our midnight ride. A few minutes later, Graeme checked in from their meet-up point to check on our progress. We were getting off the freeway for another break and some fuel. Even with an auxiliary tank, we were towing and climbing so fuel economy was lower than normal for the big diesel. As we pulled into the fueling station and aimed for one of the truck lanes, the truck began to shudder.
Well, you see the truck ran out of gas.
Yes, in the gas station.
Fort Stockton, TX.
No, I wasn’t driving nor did I have any affect whatsoever on the determination of fuel economy or location selected for the next fuel stop. Let’s just get that out of the way so y’all don’t have to remind me that I don’t pay attention to a fuel gauge.
What I didn’t know at the time was that unlike my car and bike, this truck wasn’t going to start back up just by adding more fuel to the tank. There was priming/bleeding to be done and for that, tools are needed. Tools that might normally reside in the truck when one has not cleaned out his truck in preparation for a long haul with cab-mates.
Here he is trying to get a pair of pliers to get it done, but unsuccessfully.
It’s pitch black outside, but pre-dawn hours in an oil, gas, and mining region means trucks coming and going - and with those trucks goes tools. Duke quickly befriends a local and help is on the way.
I don’t know his name, but the guy in the striped shirt was our hero. They had their truck backed up to Duke’s, tools out, and air bled from the system within minutes. I was trying not to be rude by flashing a camera on these guys, but I was reminded that it’s all just part of the adventure. Documentation is required.
Our good Samaritan took a face full of diesel for us. I felt horrible, but I was glad he was able to get us back up and running. Karma. Think about it.
The Good Sam adequately thanked, we got to washing the fuel off the truck and topping off the tanks. It was decided at that point that we’d NOT rely on the gauge for the aux tank for the remainder of the trip. Twice as many fuel stops makes for half as much worry about making it there.
The sun started to rise and I decided we’d play a game to pass the time and stay alert. It worked to keep us kids quiet for long drives to the grandparents’ place way back when, so I introduced the game of Geography to my driving mates. They seemed to catch on quickly, but it began to peter off when our brains decided this wasn’t the time for thinking. How many hours have we been awake?
My body now physically exhausted, I started to doze off. I was losing the battle to keep my eyes open.
Pilot to copilot: We’ll have none of that now, ya hear?
But, I…
Nope, you made it this far, we’re inside the park so you’re staying up.
Fine. Be that way.
My eyes closed again. I couldn’t fight it.
Suddenly, the truck veered sharply and Duke let out a quick yelp. I jumped from my sleep and looked over to see him chuckling.
If I kill him now, there’s no way Tom and I will be able to unload the bikes by ourselves. I guess I’ll have to let him live for the time being.
The front gate was unmanned and the visitors center was closed.
Mother nature welcomes us with her beauty.
We headed for the camping area and settled on three adjacent unreserved spaces within easy walking distance of the restrooms, yet far enough away as to not let the lights disturb our sleep. We quickly filled out envelopes and dropped them in the box, then set to the task of unloading the trailer and setting up camp. I had renewed energy. We were here. I knew that once we’d gotten the tents up we wouldn’t have to worry about it for three days. I quickly learned to watch my step - the thorns were large and sharp enough to punch straight through my slippers and river shoes on separate occasions.
Storage lockers were located at each campsite to keep the roaming javelinas from getting into everything. Being the city girl that I am, crawling furry things and the idea of them going through my stuff freaks me out. Yes, I know we’re camping. I’ll get used to it.
Despite wanting nothing more than sleep, our bellies reminded us that we hadn’t eaten a meal in quite some time. We unhooked the trailer and made a run for the store just up the way, with a quick stop into the visitors center to pony up our dues.
Here Duke shows me some tall thorned cacti just outside the window. During his last visit in the Spring, they were in full bloom. Now they just look like sticks with throns.
We got back to base camp and made lunchmeat sammiches, then hit the sack for a nap. We didn’t want to waste the day, but we’d be dangerous on the road with as little sleep as we’d gotten.
It was hot. The vents on my tent’s rainfly weren’t allowing enough air in. No matter how still I lay, I was sweating outdoors in November. This is nuts.
It was a forced sleep, and not very restful. I awoke and stood outside my tent just enjoying the light breeze for a few minutes. It was apparent that I wasn’t the only one who needed more air.
It reminded me of the dog sleeping in front of the fridge in the winter to keep warm. Duke had found a spot in the shade on his cool metal toolbox.
With the sun already well into its descent, we geared up, turned up the helmet tunes, and went-a-wandering on some of the roads inside the park.
Facing the camera into the sun washed out this “3 mouseketeers” shot
With this much sun in the lens, my bike actually doesn’t look dirty…
Here, Duke and Tom are:
a) Discussing the layers of rock formation on the adjacent cliffs
b) Deciding where to go from here
c) Plotting to ride off without that slow girl that gets nervous when the elevation changes by three feet or more
I like riding when I can just relax and enjoy myself. The park itself has some rolling hills, but nothing like the mountains we’d get to later in the trip.
Although not an all-out mecca for riders, Big Bend offers a great combination of scenery, twists, turns, history, nature, and seclusion.
We stopped for pictures in/at the tunnel. It looked scenic and there was almost no traffic to speak of.
Note: Either Duke has gone deaf at an early age or those noise-cancelling earphones he’s got are worth their weight in gold. Time and again I’d try to get his attention when out of his line of sight, but it was no use. I think I finally threw a glove at him once before the weekend was over.
Stunning. The colors in the pic are way off because of the light. I offer no apologies - go see it for yourself instead of just reading my version!
With the sun and haze as it was, the mountains in the distance seemed layered as if painted that way.
We decided to head to the hot springs, but it meant taking an unpaved road. The GSA and Strom were up to it, but was Tom’s Connie up to it? We let him decide for himself.
Must be that Adventure Connie…
These two old Harleys made it in this far, too.
Someone had been decorating with downed palm fronds outside the old store
The walk down to the springs was not very dirt boot friendly. These are the times when I long for my touring boots, but they offer so much less protection compared to the A*s. Ugh.
He backed up so far to compose a pic, the thorns tried to overtake him.
Duke: 1
Thorns: 0
Petroglyphs carved into the rock wall. Sadly, vandalism has made its way into places like these. Disgraceful.
http://squeaky.smugmug.com/gallery/3747422#218292704
Yup, that’s pretty high up there.
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On the other side of this narrow river is Mexico.
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We didn’t think it would be warm enough to take a dip, nor did we have time with the setting sun. Next time I’m going for a dip.
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The R12GSA. Playing in dirt, just the way it likes.
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Shadows grew longer
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We thought we would have seen the Houston group on the road by now, but they never passed us. We headed up to the Chisos Basin Lodge, but to Duke’s disappointment (and my relief) we got stuck behind a slow-moving SUV for the tight switchbacks.
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We parked the bikes and strolled into the Lodge for a quick snack and some rehydration, all the while enjoying the view of the sun setting all around us through the walls of glass.
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Riding back down the switchbacks in darkness was not my idea of fun, and my grip on the bars was almost painful. I was constantly reminding myself to relax, but I guess I didn’t want to listen. As long as I kept Duke’s multiple driving lights within my line of sight I could pace him, but as he started to slip away I had to slow down my pace.
Heading south and arriving back at camp, we were greeted by a bunch of smiling faces and meat-a-cookin’ on the grill.
Chef Biwwy
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Dinner was capped off with chocolate cherry cobbler, and soon after it was gone folks started to fade away to the solace of their tents. It had been a long day for us all, and there were roads waiting for us in the morning.