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A "cool" road trip to west Texas.

Joined
Oct 19, 2006
Messages
8,253
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45
Location
Big sky country; Ronan, MT
First Name
Bruce
Last Name
Taylor
The trip started a couple weeks prior with just a mention in a conversation. He says, "I have a week of vacation and want to head out to west Texas." So naturally I says, "Do you mind if I tag along?" And the rest is history. :zen:

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Since I was at work the night before, we left about noon on July 7 . I didn't have a chance to pack so I got home; threw some stuff on the bike and we were off. Perry was on his '05 Kawaski Nomad and I on my '02 Suzuki Intruder 1500. The plan was to stop wherever we were when it got close to dark and camp if possible; or hotel if we felt like it. North on IH 35 and west on TX 29. We weren't on the road for half an hour when Perry pulls off, so I followed. We couldn't resist this photo op., even if it does involve some posing.

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Back on the bikes and continuing west. We rode relatively slow keeping speeds around 60-65. No hurry, no stress, no planned destination. It really was quite relaxing. The further west we got, the straighter the roads got, and the more clouds were gathering.

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We stayed on 29 then continued west on 190 from Menard. First real "planned" stop was around 4:30 at old Fort McKavett.

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Fort McKavett was part of the frontier line of forts establish in the 1850's to settle the area. Most forts were abandoned during the war between the southern states and the USofA and reoccupied after the war by troops of the Buffalo Soldiers. This fort was occupied by citizens after the army left up until some time in the 1950's so many of the buildings were preserved to the present.

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This is the ruins of the long barracks. If I remember correctly it was the longest barracks used by the army at that time measuring over 300 feet long.

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This was a typical barracks room for the soldiers. Think about those racks next time you are uncomfortable in your bed. ;-)

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The two story building was originally the Commanding Officer's quarters. After the fort went civilian it became a hotel and served that purpose until it burned and collapsed. According to the Historical Society staff, the fire occurred on Dec. 7, 1941. All the folks had gathered at the home with the best radio to listen to the news about Pearl harbor. They don't know what started the fire, probably cooking related. Notice the dark clouds in this photo.

Before we could get mounted and back on the road the bottom fell out of those clouds. We donned rain gear and rode on. :rider: The rain lasted about 20 minutes and stopped just in time for us to stop in Eldorado for dinner. :eat: After asking a few locals about the limited number of restaurants we settled on some local BBQ. Not the best but definitely not the worst.

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With our bellies full we continued west on 190 and decided on Iraan as a good place to stop for the evening. We had been told about a roadside picnic area with an overlook of the town that might be a good place to either crash on the table or set a tent. We found it and Perry was ready to make camp. I did not like it though; the ground was covered with broken glass and trash from beer parties and there was a group of oil field workers setting up to add more trash and glass. I convinced Perry to roll on into town and see what we could find. It was close to sunset so I had fingers crossed. Riding through town we didn't' really see anything enticing. At the far end of town was the local volunteer fire station with a few men standing out front. We stopped and asked about the possibility of camping. They pointed and said, "right over there." less than 1/4 mile away was the municipal park with the Alley Oop RV park. Not bad and a whole lot better than were we had stopped at the overlook. $11 dollars in the box for the night.

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There was a good breeze blowing from all the thunderstorms around the area so it wasn't a bad night for the middle of July in Texas. We arose with the sun, packed up and headed for food. Not much to chose from; either mexican or small cafe. We opted for small cafe since it was the only one with any cars parked out front, The Old House Cafe.

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As we walked in the only other customers were finishing up and we soon had the place to ourselves. Good food with a friendly waitress. A good start to the day. The first destination for the second day on the road was another of the old frontier forts, Fort Lancaster. But first some sightseeing. This overlook was past the fort and by the looks of it doesn't get much traffic. It was very clean and would have been a good place to pitch up for the night. I'll keep it in mind for future needs for sure. And the view......

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Once abandoned Fort Lancaster was left to ruin until set aside by the Texas Historical Society for preservation. There is a modern visitor center with a small museum. Cost for entry was a whopping $2.00. Well worth it. First thing past the visitor center was this skeleton of a wagon.

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Amazing how it fell apart and decayed like that. It looked staged but upon closer examination you could tell that parts of it were embedded into the dirt like it had been there for over 100 years. The building are all in ruins, with some restoration and preservation done, but not much.

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Saw a couple of these guys crawling around.

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You could tell were some restoration was done by the different color of the mortar used. It was slightly different but obvious on close observation.

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Back west to Sheffield and a left turn took us south. We rode to Sanderson and stopped for lunch at a place with an identity crisis of sorts. The sign up top said Paddy's Pud, Irish right? The sandwich board sign on the sidewalk said Patty's Cafe'. :shrug: No matter; the food was good.

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With lunch done we came up with a plan for the rest of the day. Ride through Alpine to Ft. Davis and set up camp in the Davis Mountains State Park for the next two days. The weather had been really nice so far. Not any hotter than the mid 80's with the scattered showers. We were prepared for temps around 100 so the cool air was very nice. We pulled into camp around 2:30 and took an hour to set up. Back on the bikes we planned to ride the scenic loop west of Fort Davis through the mountains.

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Stop along the road for some more posing.

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The road was twisty and no traffic at all. We drug the running boards a few times then backed off for a leisurely ride. On the western part of the loop there was one of the scattered thunderstorms so the rain gear came out. The stop was just long enough that the storm moved further west, the road drifted a little east, and we just got the edge of the rain but had wet roads for about 15 miles before stopping again to doff the plastic. After a little over an hour we were back in downtown Fort Davis.

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Back in the park we went straight to dinner at the Black Bear Cafe that is in the Indian Lodge. Lots of people taking advantage of this little place in the park. It's good food for a reasonable price and very convenient to the campers and folks staying at the lodge. After dinner we rode up the hill to the overlook to get a cell signal and touch base with home; no cell service in the park. Perry had to pose for another photo. ;-)

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That night I slept real good. The temps got down into the 50's by morning. It was wonderful sleeping weather. No alarms, we just woke up with the sun.

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Ft. Davis National Historic Park in the morning; another of the frontier forts.
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We had both been there before so we did not include it in our trip this time. Our plan was to make a loop south to include Marfa, Presidio, Lajitas, Terlingua, Study Butte, Alpine and back to Ft. Davis. The air was cool enough that a long sleeve T shirt was needed under the mesh jacket to be comfortable. The clouds were dark and low as we pointed the bikes south.

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We could see rain off in the distance but only got sprinkles on the edges of the storms as we rode south.
Presidio, TX on the border with Mexico.

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The desert flowers were blooming.
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We stopped at a grocery storm in search of facilities. Perry got the idea that he wanted some sodas and made the purchase. When he came walking out of the store I said, "what are you going to do with that 12 pack of sodas?" He hadn't thought that far out so I came up with an idea. He was pleased, I think.

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It started to sprinkle and the sky was dark to the southeast toward 170 so the rain gear came out. This time we judged right, it rained hard for the first half hour. We had plenty of time so we took it real easy and kept the speeds down on the curvy road. It rained enough there was water flowing over the road in two spots between Presidio and Lajitas. The cool temps and the rain had other hazards. These guys were active and right up next to the road.
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Cute, aren't they?
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Next stop was at the summit of the pass along the river. Nice views. And, we had cold drinks. :trust:

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I had to get a picture of me just to prove I was really there.
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We went on east to Study Butte hoping to have lunch at Kathy's but she was closed. Oh well, we had a plan B and went on to a delicious lunch at the Chili Pepper Cafe. Always tasty. While eating we met a truck driver from Llano who gave us a good tip on where the locals go for BBQ. And it's not Coopers. More later. We met a man that we waved at along the road in April when we were out here on our dual sport bikes riding around in the dirt. Nice guy and very informative. I'll keep his name for future reference and will stop by his out of the way place next time. :trust: It's always good to have local contacts. Time to head north. This was the hottest it was to get while out in the Bend area. 90 degrees. :-P Lots of scattered showers but we somehow managed to slip between them the rest of the day.

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Just after the Border Patrol stop was another chance to pose with our bikes at Cathedral Peak. First my Intruder.

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Perry's turn.

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Nice.

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A couple miles south of Alpine there is a nice overlook beside the highway. You can see the showers we were dodging. Some pretty good ones.

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Finally the star posers in a group photo.

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There was a storm coming up from the south threatening to cut off our route so we made the run into Alpine for fuel and on to Ft. Davis. Leaving Alpine I though we were caught by the rain but just then the road jogged west and once again we slipped though the gap between the storms the storms.

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After dinner at the Black Bear we rode back to the overlook for phone and view. Ft. Davis with Mitre Peak in the center.

Perry had broken his camera in April when he crashed and broke his foot just outside of Study Butte so he had to settle for cell phone pictures.

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He was using them to tease people back home. :lol2:

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Another cool night in the Davis Mountains and then it was time to start making our way back east. All had been going great right up to the time I plugged my Zumo 550 gps into the cradle. I fired up the bike and the Zumo did not come on as usual. I took it out of the cradle and nothing, nada, zip, zilch. My smile had quickly turned into a frown. I tested the power by plugging a matress blower into the plug; I had power so I knew something was wrong with the Zumo. :giveup: So, we pulled out the paper backup and went "old school". We rode north out of Ft. Davis on TX17. This is a great road that winds through Rose Canyon as you drop elevation down to Balmorhea. With nothing to listen to from the Zumo (I have the XM setup) and no maps to look at I noticed that Perry's tire looked like it was low on air. When we got to the town of Balmorhea I signaled for him to stop and check his tire. Sure enough he was down to 25 from the normal inflation of 40.
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We didn't see any immediate cause for the loss of air so we aired up and rode on the Ft. Stockton. First stop was the Wal Mart were Perry purchased a bottle of Slime. Next stop was a convenience store with an air supply. While Perry worked on getting the Slime in the tire I made a call to Garmin Customer Service. After 10 minutes on hold it was refreshing to hear a service rep that spoke clear American English. I explained the problem with my Zumo. He said, "No problem, here is what you have to do. Take the lithium ion battery pack out of the back of the unit. Plug into a USB port on your computer. Replace the battery and push the on button. It's a glich in the softerware that happens once and once rebooted with this procedure is should not happen again." He wasn't listening when I told him I had been on the road for three days. :doh: I asked him for ideas and he directed me to find a Circuit City, Best Buy, or Radio Shack and they should be able to get me going. OK. Perry got his tire fixed so we were off in search of an electronics store. Peice of cake if the Zumo was working. :-P After driving around Ft. Stockton and getting directions from a seven year old in pickup truck parked along the road we located the Lumber Yard/True Value Hardware/Radio Shack. Small towns are great! I explained my problem to the manager. We found the right USB cable, the correct allen wrench to remove the battery from it's waterproof mount, then he went to his office computer and unplugged the keyboard so I could plug in. Just like the guy said she powered up without any problem. I asked the guy how much and he said nothing! I did buy the USB cable though. It was worth it. :clap:

We got back on the road after about an hour in Ft. Stockton. Ten miles east of town we caught US 67 and angled toward San Angelo. I havfe never been on such a boring road. Nothing to look at from horizon to horizon. I mean FLAT. And it was getting hot. The kind of hot we had been spared from the first three days of the trip. First town we hit was McCaney, I think. We checked Perry's tire, it was holding air. Good. I spotted a diner that had about 15 cars out front at 1:30 so I figured it must be good. We were not disappointed. Benoits Family Restaurant. I had the chef salad and Perry had a fajita salad. Nice.

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We just rode until we got to Brady heading south from San Angelo. This is were the Hill Country really starts. It was 5:30, it was hot, so we decided to stop, get a hotel, some chow, and spend the night here. We scored a room at the Best Western. Very nice for the money.
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After checking with the locals we decided on Mac's BBQ. Good meat!:eat:

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After a good night sleep in the cold air conditioned room, we continued south on 87 toward Mason. On the south side of town, I spotted a sign that I had to follow. Tucked away back in the neighborhood and perched on a hill overlooking the town we found Ft. Mason.

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Another of the frontier forts. This one is definatley worth the little side trip. This is the only building but each room was furnished to the period, no admission fee, and a great view of the area from this high point.

Perry on the back porch.
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Our goal was to be in Llano for lunch. Remember the BBQ place we were told about by the truck driver? We had to give it a try. We went south on 87 toward Fredricksburg to make a loop ending in Llano. Along the way we saw these bull elk hanging out in the field.

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We turned north on FM 2323 which winds through the countryside. A very nice ride. Finally arriving in Llano and the place to which we had been referred. Laird's BBQ.

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Located on the south side of town it's on the right as you are coming in on TX 16. It's owned by an old couple, he learned the trade working for the original Cooper's. He left when the founder died and Cooper's was sold to a real estate developer. He cooks using the old recipes. The food can be ordered on a plate or by the pound and costs about half as much as what the charge at Cooper's. I had a two meat plate with sides and iced tea and paid less than $10. I left very well satisfied. :eat:

From here it was the usual roads back to P'ville. 20 to Park Road 4, 281 into Marble Falls, 1431 back to the big city. We stopped in Lago Vista because it was getting HOT. We never imagined it would be cooler out west than here. It was a good ride; I hope you enjoyed the report.
 
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Tnx for the trip report and pictures. We are going to Austin from San Angelo in the Morning and Lairds is now on my list of where to stop for lunch.
I like the idea of the side bag as an ice chest. Very handy.
Always fun to travel thru someone else's eyes.
Tnx
 
Really good report. I especially like that area between Mason & Menard. Last time I went through there I didn't see another vehicle.
 
Great report! However, the creepy crawly brings back horrible memories of trying to suntan in my backyard in Midland. Apparently they are attracted to sunscreen! Or maybe they just like giving the million finger back massage. :eek2:
 
Awesome report. I never thought of doing Big Bend in July. Figured it'd be miserable.......looks like I might be wrong. Guess I'll start the planning.
Thanks for the pics!!
 
Great report. I like how the folks who painted the flag included the air conditioner in the scheme. Nice work.

Beautiful, wide open country you went through. Thanks for sharing it with us.
 
Tnx for the trip report and pictures. We are going to Austin from San Angelo in the Morning and Lairds is now on my list of where to stop for lunch.
I like the idea of the side bag as an ice chest. Very handy.
Always fun to travel thru someone else's eyes.
Tnx

The ice chest worked very well. The ice lasted from Presidio to Study Butte where we bought another bag and still had ice cold drinks when we arrived back at camp that night. Oh, don't try it with leather bags. :lol2: The Leatherlyke bags are plastic and sealed on the bottom.
 
Awesome report. I never thought of doing Big Bend in July. Figured it'd be miserable.......looks like I might be wrong. Guess I'll start the planning.
Thanks for the pics!!

We were planning on miserable as well. Some of the locals said the rain depends on what's happening with the tropics and the flow off of tropical storms. :shrug: It can go either way. As soon as the clouds break the temps jump 15 degrees real quick. It's all good.
 
great report!!! I'll have to head to those parts once it's cooled down. My hat's off to you for doing that in the middle of summer!! Looks like you two had fun, thanks for sharing the photos and report with us :rider:
 
I had noticed Laird's many times while riding by. Usually after eating elsewhere. This time it was the planned stop and will be in the future.
 
Great report. Thaks for posting it. I have done a lot of work in West Texas over the lst few years and I travelled the roads with you in my mind. Nice to get back there the only way I can at the moment.

Thanks for the tip! I'm going to stop at Laird's the next time I am through Llano. I have resisted Cooper's to date mostly because everyone says you must stop there. I am kinda funny like that. :trust:

You missed the fort in Fort Stockton. ;-)

Their parade ground is complete on the south end and the officers quarters clearly define the west edge of the fort. It is kind of hidden in town, but worth the stop.

Regarding Fort Mason ... It was General Robert E. Lee's command at one time and if memory serves me, his last before taking charge of the Confederate forces.
 
Very nice, I have a trip coming up in a week and this just makes me want to go today.
 
We subscribe to Ride Texas and your story would make an awsome article. Very well done! Thanks for the inspiration!!
Sunny
 
Really, we plan alot of our trips right out of that magazine and your report sounds just like the ones they put in there.:clap: I am very impressed. If you don't subscribe and you enjoy riding in Texas you should get it. Pretty cool mag. www.ridetexas.com
I had a trip planned to Tres Ritos area at the end of July but now your story has me tryin' to decide which would be more fun. We like to travel about 60-65:rider: and enjoy places with less traffic. That way we can pull over if we want too as often as we want to.
I was wonderin' too where your tents are on your bikes. We don't mind the ground for a bed but my tent takes up a longer space on the back of my C50.
I have always wanted to travel to the West Texas mountains.......might just head out that way instead!
Sunny
 
SnnyLdy62 ,
I get to read about half the issues over a years time. Perry gets them and he always takes reading material on trips. I read the June/July issue sitting at the campsite at Davis Mtns SP. I should subscribe, just never got around to it. I do enjoy their style and the fact that they ride all kinds of bikes.
If you have not ever ridden 170 from Study Butte to Presidio you need to put it on your list. It's a must ride road. Either direction, doesn't matter.
I had the tent bungied to the rear rack behind the sissy bar. It just happened to be as long as the Wolfman bag so it all looks even.
 
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