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Haggis, Highlands and hurricanes...the Scotland ride report

Before I continue with the report, let me post up the tracks from the previous rides...

Day 1:

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Day 2:

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Day 3:

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The reports for Days 4 through 6 are very picture-heavy, so please be patient with me while I sort all the pics and vids out.
 
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Great pictures!
BTW, how did the car drivers behave around motorcycles on your trip?
RB

All in all the drivers are way more curtious and over all just plain and simple better drivers. They tend to drive a little faster on the smaller roads but are more attentive. In the 7 days we rode I only recall one idiot forcing his way in between us and that was on a really twisty section of road where we had been stuck behind a line of about 8 cars for about 15-20 minutes.

On the side track roads (one lane wide but traffic using it in both diections. You pass each other by pulling into a passing places) made for very interesting riding espically being in the lead position. These roads are usually very twisty even by Scottish standards and have lots of blind corners, blind summits or my favourite blind summits with a sharp blind corner.

On several occasions I had my head way to close to the headlights of on coming cars, SUVs and trucks. On one occasions I swear I could read the wattage and manufacturers name on the head light of a Land Rover.

As for passing, cars in front of us would generally pull over and allow us to pass at the first opertunity. Not sure if they were being polite or just tired of my brights in their mirrors. On coming traffic, is a bit of a different story. You have to kind stand your ground to get them to fully pull over to let 3 bikes past and time it so you meet them at a passing place closest to them. I ended up kinda playing chicken, when I saw an oncoming car I would move to the right side of the road to command the whole road and not give the oncoming driver the impression that there was room to pass on the regular road. This usually forced the driver to come to a complete stop and allow all 3 of us to pass. Only once did I find out how close to an on coming car I was willing to play chicken to protect the other riders

Overall, I feel safer around traffic over there on a bike and in a car.

FYI - Not only is it illegal to use a cellphone while driving but also drinking or eating while driving is "driving without due care and attention" (4 points on your license, you lose it at 11 points). This is why european cars do not have 14 cup holders next to the drivers seat
 
I also noticed when we were driving in Aberdeen that a lot of times drivers would let you cut in when coming from an intersection to either turn or go across. They would flash the high beam to let you know they're letting you through, where in Houston the driver would have stomped the gas and made sure there isn't enough room for anyone to get in front of his/her car...
The scariest time on the single track road was also one an oncoming rider kept waving at us instead of moving to his left while the three of us where hugging our the left side of road where pavement ends and gravel begins...
 
Okay I am at home with no cable TV or internet (Comcast decided to turn if off yesterday, to fix some lines) and am scamming this connection from my neighbors unprotected wireless connection. So I thought to myself [SELF] provide a little more background info to Ana’s ride report.

JFYI - If I were caught scamming internet from a neighbour in Scotland it would be a $2000 fine. You pay for your internet connection by bandwidth and it is not cheap hence the heavy fine.


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Dunnotter Castle. Back in the day, this castle was used to hide the Scottish crown jewels (when we actually had a true royal family). Never mind trying to build this place, the English eventually stormed this place. In more recent times it was the back drop for the movie MacBeth staring Mel Gibson and Glen Close and was one of the places in the first Amazing Race TV series. The competitors had to get from the middle of the jungle in Brazil to here, so the 15 mile ride we had from my parents place was not really that tough


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Note the high speed interceptor the police are using LOL

Balmoral Castle. This is the queens summer cottage. It is open to the public most of the summer except when the Queen is in residence. While the queen is in residence the Royal Protection Squad (police) are supported by the SAS. The SAS use this time to practice survival training, each soldier is give weapons then told to live off the land for a month (worm sandwiches are seemingly a favorite). The River Dee runs through the grounds of Balmoral and has some of the best Salmon fishing in Scotland. You can expect to pay anything up to $600 per DAY to fish this 3 mile section of the river. You would not believe the number of news reports each year of the SAS catching poachers both on and off the grounds.


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These are Highland calves. They are probably no more than 1-2 years old. If you look closely at the pictues of Skip you might see a family resemblance


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In Scotland the last line would read
If the rock is gone ….. some thiefing b****** has stolen it


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The poles at the side of the road as Ana mentioned are Snow poles to mark the road. Four to five feet of snow in this area is not uncommon so these poles are used by the snow plow driver to find the road.
About 30 miles from this picture is one of two Scottish “ski resorts”. Unfortunately 30 miles makes a big difference in the highlands so the resort never really gets enough snow for anything close to good ski conditions (read as rock skiing for 90% of the time) and if it does the road is usually blocked for weeks at a time.
Word to the wise if you are ever thinking of skiing in Scotland DON’T but if you must use your friends skis
 
Day 4 The trip to the most northerly point of mainland Britain, and my whiteknuckling ride on the windy highlands

Tuesday's ride was the second longest riding day that Calgary-Yogi had in store for us, about 260 miles.

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While 260 miles in Texas wouldn't be considered much more than "going around the corner", they can be a handful in the twisty, hilly, and at times quite narrow roads in Scotland. That day we would spend about 12 hours on the road.

The day started nicely, just a little fog on the fields early in the morning...

(Graeme's photo)
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(Graeme's photo)
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...but otherwise clear skies

(Graeme's photo)
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(On most of our way to John O'Groats we kept passing this bus...)

(Graeme's photo)
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(Graeme's photo)
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(Graeme's photo)
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If you noticed the red tape on his bike and wondering what is that all about... We all added a strip of red tape to our windscreens as a reminder of on what side is the centerline supposed to be...


Still hugging the coast, we start climbing a hill, where you could see the road going up and around it in front of us

(Graeme's photo)
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There was a little rest stop in the hill where we had a quick break and photo ops.

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...until the guys were ready to get back on the road again...

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The hill was more of a mesa as it turned out, and we could still glimpse the North Sea going alongside us for many many miles...

(Graeme's photo)
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The skies turned cloudy, and a steady drizzle followed for many miles. Eventually we went past Dunnet, the northernmost point of mainland Britain...

(Graeme's photo)
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But we kept riding until we reached John O'Groats, which was for a long time regarded as the most northerly settlement. Time for more photo ops to commemorate our achievement!

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It was almost noon so we ate lunch at the "Journey's End" cafe, and took a quick walk along the pier.

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We got back on the road, and soon after stopped at a nearby beach. It would have been more inviting if it had been like 50 degrees warmer...:rofl:

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We backtracked our way from o'Groats for a few miles, and since the rain was gone we had more fun in the twisties this time over....

(Graeme's photo)
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[Day 4 continues...]
 
[cont. Day 4]


We now continue on the northern highlands, following the northern coast. THis was hands down the must stunning scenery to date, a combination of hills, glacier-like formations and coastal landscapes. Oh, and sheep. Lots of free-ranging sheep...

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We stopped at the Bettyhill lookout, where it almost seemed like we were watching a martianscape. The combination exposed rocks, heather and other vegetation and not so distant mountain peaks made for a surreal experience. From here to Durness and beyond.

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Where the highlands meet the ocean the result is jawdropping.

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We stopped for these photos just outside "Coldbackie". I'll let Graeme give you the actual meaning, but to me it should be named "Cold hinie" as I was cold and had already started plugging my electric liners (never been so happy for heated gear until then!!!!!)

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Near Durness the views couldn't get more stunning. The sandy beach and turquoise water looked more like something you would find in the distant caribbean.

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Now to my "whiteknuckling" part of the report....

As got to some desolate parts of the highlands, and at slightly higher elevations, the wind started to blow something fierce...

[Graeme's pic. I was to busy trying to keep my hands on the handlebars...]
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From looking at the grass you could see how the wind would come up from the valley below with nothing to slow it down. I've ridden in the wind and with gusty side winds many many times, but NEVER experienced anything like this. I felt the wind and did my natural leaning into it thing...then next thing I know I'm almost on the other side of the centerline!!! :eek2: I felt the gusts almost lifting the bike, and sliding like it were on skates. I first thought I was going too slow, and needed to power through it and lean harder, but the sensation of instability was most unnerving so I slowed down. On top of that it started raining hard, and I won't lie here, there was a point were I pretty much pannicked and had a genuine fear for my life. I notice Skip wasn't getting much farther ahead from me so at least it wasn't just me. Graeme did feel the gusts and all, but allways felt in control unlike Skip and I. We kept riding back until we got down the hill and to Ullapool, were we gassed up and I tried to regroup mentally. My confidence level went out the window, but fortunately the ride back, though rainy, was much easier and uneventful.

(Graeme's pic)
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Fortunately when we got back to Strathpeffer Anne was waiting for us with a home made dinner consisting of the most famous scottish fare. Mashed turnips, mashed potatoes, kippers (smoked fish), sausage, black pudding and off course, haggis!!!! Which, I don't care what it's made of, it was very very nice!! Everything was delicious actually. Nothing like a nice hearty meal to close a long day of riding.

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We were in Scotland in May, but the wife had problems with the traffic on the wrong side and we didn't do much traveling about. She is from Scotland and she will enjoy your pics. It is a beautiful place, and the people are great.
Excellent pics and story. Glad you had the chance to get over there. We did a tour thru the middle from Aberdeen to Glasgow and really enjoyed the scenery, but it was in a car and not on two wheels. Glad the TWT flag got to see the Highland, Midlands and low lands.
And haggis is excellent. As are neeps and tatties.
:-)

Bill
 
Day 5 Isle of Skye, and "gone with the wind" part II

Day 5 was the longest day, at somewhere around 290 miles, where we would be riding to the Isle of Skye. Since the Isle is now connected to the mainland via bridge, the plan was to also nab the most westerly point, but at the end we just didn't have to time even though we came quite close, milewise anyways.

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The day started overcast and with intermittent rain here and there. We rode through another single track road that was in pretty good shape, and meandered its way through some gorgeous highland scenery.

(Graeme's picture)
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As it has been the case through the trip, there aren't many pictures of the best parts of the single-track roads, and of the most beautiful highland scenery, as between being cautious of oncoming traffic on blind corners, and having too much fun in the twisty parts where the visibility was unencumbered, there simply was no time to take on-bike photos. However on a slow stretch of road Graeme shot a bit of vid:



The weather wasn't getting any better,and on top of that the wind was picking up as we kept going uphill...

(Graeme's picture)
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...as we were going to Applecross, a destination recommended by many people for the beautiful road going up the mountain. Well...the views were beautiful, but the road wasn't...it was a very very narrow single track road, the mountain on one side, a big drop-off on the other...and not in the best conditions, it was quite slippery. I should have been hinted of what was coming when we went past this sign:

(Graeme's picture)
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(Graeme's picture)
And for the looks of Graeme's windshield, the rain wasn't letting on...
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(Graeme's picture)
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By the time we went past the section with the railguard seen in the above photo, the wind started blowing really hard. I felt like I was on a pedal bike, you could feel the bike being slowed down a great deal by the wind. The wind felt mostly head on, but it had a bit of a sidewind component that again pushed the bike sideways like the day before. At the first opportunity I just pulled over as there were 9 more miles of road to Applecross and felt I could just not deal with that. Eventually Graeme and Skip u-turned and came back where I was, still both feet planted in the ground, not daring to attempt to start the u-turn myself on that wind. I only got out of the bike when the boys came over and helped get the bike facing downhill. The gusts where so bad I had a hard time standing...I felt like one of those weather channel reporters standing outside in the middle of a tropical storm. And if you think I'm exagerating, the wind was blowing so hard it flipped Skip's bike over on it's right side! (And no, he did not park the bike with the sidestand side facing the wind...he and Graeme parked downhill, the same direction the main wind was blowing.) Even the big Triumph looked like it would fall over on its right side at times.

Anyways, the guys got me going and I went downhill to wait for them at a better spot while they pick up Skip's bike. The ride downhill was a piece of cake, and even felt like shooting some photos while waiting for Skip and Calgary-Yogi.

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We stopped at the first village for a quick lunch, and though still misting, it looked like the rain would stop soon.

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We geared up and continued on our way to Skye. Eventually we got a glimpse of the bridge and crossed to the island.

(Graeme's picture)
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(Graeme's picture)
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The rain has stopped and the roads where almost dry. You have to hand it to these guys, I don't know how they pave them, but the drainage is great and they dry up in a hurry. Not only that, but with a couple of exceptions, the grip of these roads even when wet is amazing.

The Isle of Skye welcomed us with great roads and more of the beautiful scottish landscapes.

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(Graeme's picture)
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(Graeme's picture)
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we hit several construction zones on the road. Instead of using flagmen to divert traffic, they have portable traffic lights that they can activate remotely.

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Time to leave the Island and head back to Strath...


(Graeme's picture)
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(Graeme's picture)
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As we approached a tunnel I could see from the distance that it had two lanes...but on a closer inspection, it was only one...the other one was for the train, so you better look ahead for oncomig traffic before entering!

(Graeme's picture)
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Day 6 Nessie

Day 6 was a nice relaxed ride along Loch Ness and beyond for a couple of castles.

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The weather was absolutely brilliant, no rain except for a few spotty showers and much warmer.

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We rode through the forest that grows alongside Loch Ness. Nice twisty roads and lazy hills, we all got in "the zone" enjoying the ride and the nice curvy road. Again, no photos of the really twisty parts, but you'll get an idea of the scenery...

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(Grames' pic)
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Our first stop was Urquhart Castle.

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Then more riding...

(Grames' pic)
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...and still no Nessie...

(Grames' pic)
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We then had our second stop, Eilean Donan:

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We started heading back home, but on the way back we would be riding along the other side of Loch Ness, and through more beautiful roads and scenery

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AS you see, we couldn't have asked for any better riding weather. We stopped at an overlook on a hill that seemed to be quite the popular spot.

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After a wonderful ride along the eastern shore of the Loch, so nice to keep us busy at the handlbars and enjoying the ride and not caring about pictures, we made it back to "civilization" when we reached Inverness. While stopped at the light I saw a Spanish tapas restaurant and wondered if the patrons knew the meaning of the name of that stablishment...

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Right past Inverness, and as we entered Dingwall, we got caught on a rainshower, where I witnessed the most amazing rainbow ever. I simply can not remember when was the last time I saw a rainbow so clear and with such strong colors (again, pictures don't do it any justice). And it was a double rainbow to boot, if you look closely.

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Since we finally made it back to Strathpeffer with enough daylight left, I asked Anne to give me a quick tour of the town. Queen Victoria frequented the town to drink the well waters, supposed to have a medicinal effect. The arquitechture all over town is, well, victorian in style. First, a photo of the house where we stayed, which is actually subdivided in several flats:

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Now, the town. By the time I walked out the rainbow was still in full force:

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Being that that was our last night at Strathpeffer, we all ate outside at a nice local restaurant. Then we went back and started packing, as next morning we would be riding back to Aberdeen an return the bikes.

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Is Eilean Donan the name of that castle? I think it's been in a bunch of movies. The opening scene of Highlander flashed through my head when I saw that picture.

I'm jealous, I toured Ireland and Scotland years ago, but that was before I rode. I can only imagine how cool it is to ride motorcycles through that scenery.
 
Day 7 The end of the ride

The last day of our two-wheeled journey. A ride back to Aberdeen, which Graeme made sure was not through the most direct route...

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We all took but a handful of pictures that day. One of the road early morning as the fog started to lift...

(Graeme's)
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One of the entrance to Cardhu's distillery, which we unfortunately couldn't tour since the nex guided tour was almost an hour later...

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..and one of a scottish drive-through...

(Graeme's)
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We retuned the bikes, and decided to hang aroun Blackburn for a while to wait for the rush hour traffic to subside before hailing a cab back to Aberdeen. Either way that sounded like a perfect excuse to hit the pub next door....

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We had a few pints and reflected on the last 7 days of the greatest riding trip ever. Sad that it all came to an end, but also eager to get back to check on family, friends, and lastly, property on the wake of hurricane Ike. Our flights wouldn't depart until sunday, so we still had all day saturday to check on local bike shops (they even a Hein-Gericke shop in Aberdeen!!!), and later treated to a barbeque at Graeme's sisters.
 
The bonus days. Courtesy of hurricane Ike

Our flights got cancelled on sunday morning and we got scheduled for tuesday. So GRame did what he knows best: he gave us a quick tour...

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...of the Aberdeen pubs...:chug: :party:

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From Prince of Wales above, we went to "Slain's Castle"....

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a church now converted to a pub/resaturant...with some interesting decoration...

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The pub tour was also a restroom tour of sorts, as the folks around here seems to be somewhat creative with the toilets...

First on Slain's, here I am trying to find the secret combination to the ladies room through the bookcase...

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...success!!!

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The next stop was The Grill, a very old pub, with a most impressive selection of whiskeys...

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They made me drink this, "Sweetheart Stout", a 2% beer which then i found out is what they gave, way back in the days, to mothers right after giving birth...:doh:

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Then a quick visit to the ladies room...since they wanted to see if the toilet seat was still the original one....it seems that for a while people in Aberdeen didn't have anything better than to steal the toilet seat of The Grill...but no, it's been long since replaced...

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Then we went to the Soul;s bar...just next door to the Soul's casino...wich...wait for this...it's on another former church building...

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Now these guys at the Souls bar really went the extra mile with their restrooms... they made them co-ed!

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Well, actually just the hand washing part...but still...that was WEIRD...

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So after imbibing copious amounts of alcohol, we followed another of Graeme's old traditions--we went for some very tasty, very hot indian curry...

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...so hot that Skip's head spontaneously combusted...

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On monday we just walked around and hit the shops, when finally, just by luck, we came upon the Honda shop...where I could FINALLY seat and drool on yet another bike we won't see in the states...the Deauville:

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Isn't that the perfect fit or what?

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That pretty much brings the report to an end. I want to really THANK Graeme for allowing me to tag along on this trip, I know I could have never done something like this on my own, and to his familly for treating us like part of their own, I really felt honored. It will be hard to top a riding trip like this one!!!
 
It looks and sounds like you guys had an absolutely fantastic trip! The photos are amazing and the running narrative is excellent! :sun:

Thank you for sharing! :sun:
 
Your correct the castle was used in Highlander and moe recently it was in the bond movie "the world is not enough" and also Entrapment with Sean and Katheran ZetaJones.
Believe it or not this castle was built in the 20th Century.


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Is Eilean Donan the name of that castle? I think it's been in a bunch of movies. The opening scene of Highlander flashed through my head when I saw that picture.

I'm jealous, I toured Ireland and Scotland years ago, but that was before I rode. I can only imagine how cool it is to ride motorcycles through that scenery.
 
Ana,
Were you using the D80 for these shots? And was it set on Automatic?

Most, if not all are just amazing shots and the composition of a professional photographer.

What a trip!
 
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