• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

Backroads to Bookstores: A Day Ride to Archer City, TX

Joined
Aug 2, 2006
Messages
630
Reaction score
6
Location
San Jose, CA
Route Map

It's been a while since Vic was able to join me on anything more then a short around-town ride. Work and school don't leave her with much free time to get away, but she managed to keep a day this weekend free so that we could head out for some time together. It has been on our list for some time to ride up to Archer City, TX, the home of Pulitzer-and Academy Award-winning author Larry McMurtry (of Lonesome Dove and Brokeback Mountain fame), and visit his used bookstore, Booked Up. I don't recall who had told us about this place; we have a habit of wandering into small used bookstores wherever we go, and I think we fell into conversation with the owner of one of them, who mentioned it when he found out we were living in Texas. It was just about the perfect distance to make a good day ride out of it, and in a direction that I'd never really got around to exploring, so I mapped out a decent-looking route and we set off.

First stop: Breakfast at the Snooty Pig Cafe, just off of I-35 on our way out of DFW. I had posted up on my local riding board that we'd be riding today, and invited anyone else to come along, but there werre no takers. I think my disclaimer might have scared them away: "We'll be mainly on roads that I've never been on before and cannot vouch for the condition of; parts of this ride may involve rough pavement, potholes, gravel roads, velociraptors, and roving bands of highwaymen... but hopefully not." One of my buddies did show up to meet us for breakfast, though, before heading off to work for the day.

I know, he's not much to look at. Luckily, this is the last picture you'll see of him.
P4100002.jpg


Vic wolfing down some quesadillas.
P4100003.jpg


Normally I try to stick to Farm Roads for rides, which are always paved and well-signed, and usually make for pretty good riding. This time I routed us through some smaller roads, crossing my fingers that they wouldn't be too bad (I wasn't being facetious in my ride invite!) After getting away from DFW along major roads, we split off onto Old Agnes Rd, just east of Springtown, for the first of the country lanes we'd be on today.

P4100008.jpg


P4100007.jpg


P4100012.jpg


P4100010.jpg


We continued along Lone Star Road, crossing straight over the major north-south highways as we worked our way west.

P4100017.jpg


P4100014.jpg


As the morning wore on, the overcast began to break up and let some sun through... a welcome change from the cold overcast that we started out in.
P4100023.jpg


For the most part, the roads were pretty good, but there were some rougher areas spotted with potholes.
P4100019.jpg


P4100018.jpg


P4100025.jpg


Passing through the town (term used lightly) of Oran, we stopped for a photo op at the US Post Office.
P4100029.jpg


Getting back on major roads past the town of Graford, we were able to pick up our speed again. Past a field of windmills off in the distance.
P4100033.jpg


Maybe we picked up the speed a bit too much. Whoops. Luckily, we got away with a warning.
P4100031.jpg


Texas is dotted with roadside historical markers, many of which are dotted themselves with bullet holes.
P4100030.jpg


Heading northwest to Graham, there are two yellow lines shown on Google maps: the straight, boring looking TX-16, and the much more entertaining-looking Finis Road. You know which one I'm going to choose. Unfortunately, Finis Road turned out to be entertaining for all the wrong reasons...
P4100036.jpg


I asked Vic if she wanted to turn around and go back up TX-16. Her: "I don't care, it's your bike. We've done gravel before." Well, OK... We were actually able to keep up a pretty good pace, even managing to get the back a little loose with the throttle at a few corner exits. Psht, who needs a Multistrada?
P4100035.jpg


Back on pavement!
P4100037.jpg


...for about 200 yards. Then more gravel. Finally, pavement again... this time with a double yellow line. That's a good sign.
P4100040.jpg


We stopped in Graham for a walk around the Young County Courthouse. Found some appropriate parking along the curb.
P4100046.jpg


This arch is all that's left of the original courthouse (I guess that would make it the Old County Courthouse).
P4100047.jpg


That obelisk is a monument to Young County's veterans of the CSA.
P4100048.jpg


...and one to those who died in service to the USA.
P4100052.jpg


I found it interesting that some names had been removed from the wall. There were several instances of this... wonder why.
P4100051.jpg


Back on the road after our stretch break.
P4100055.jpg


There are many towns in Texas, so you're bound to find some funny names.
P4100057.jpg


Many of them seem to be past their prime.
P4100054.jpg


We're now heading north, instead of west, and the road signs have begun to mention Archer City.
P4100053.jpg


The wildflowers are in full bloom along the road as we speed through the sweeping pastureland.
P4100059.jpg


P4100062.jpg


P4100060.jpg


We reach Archer City at about 1 PM. We find parking along the town square next to a few cousins of the VFR's.
P4100064.jpg


It's been a few hours since breakfast, and we're ready for some lunch! Books can wait.
P4100066.jpg


P4100069.jpg


The Archer County Courthouse.
P4100076.jpg


Hotel at the center of town.
P4100070.jpg


Finally, time to hit the bookstore. Booked Up has a somewhat unusual setup... while it started in one building, it soon spread to others, and now occupies four buildings around the town square. Most of the buildings are not staffed, and you need to take your selections to the main building to check out. We decide to start in Building No.4, since it's closest to where we had lunch.

P4100071.jpg


The organizational breakdown of the buildings.
P4100073.jpg


Posted inside the door...
P4100079.jpg


I pick an aisle with an interesting subject and start browsing. Vic decides to try and canvass the building before deciding where to start. She comes back ten minutes later mumbling to herself... "Oh god, I can't handle this. There's too much..."
P4100074.jpg


We make some selections and move on down the street. We decide to skip Building No.3, and head to No.2 instead, where Vic is overwhelmed again.
P4100075.jpg


P4100077.jpg


Finally, we head across the street to No.1, which turns out to be the biggest of them all.
P4100078.jpg


This place is just too big.
P4100080.jpg


Heh, "New Arrivals."
P4100081.jpg


The staff, napping on duty.
P4100085.jpg


Not many pictures from the ride back, since Vic was getting tired and spent more time nodding off then taking in the scenery. It was a very nice ride though... that area of north Texas is very scenic, very green.
P4100086.jpg


We stopped off for dinner just before arriving home, and finally got back at around 8:00. It was nice to get out with the wifey again to do some exploring of new places, even if it was just a day ride. Hopefully after graduation in July we'll be able to get back out for some overnight trips. Till then, ride safe, and thanks for reading!
 
Cool, thanks for the report! I wrote an article about Archer City and Booked Up for Ride Texas magazine a few years ago. I had a lot of fun going up there. Looks like you had a more interesting route though. Glad to see it is all still there.
 
I'm going to have to take a trip out there. I might take a sleeping bag and camp out in the bookstore.
 
Nice report, but no mention of the town's history? Archer City was the filming location of one of the most famous movies ever based out of Texas. The last picture show, peter bogdanovitch's opus, that he co-wrote, produced, edited and directed. Ben Johnson and Cloris Leachman won oscars for their roles.

Peter hasn't done much since, except blame hugh hefner for his former g\f's (dorothy stratten) death at the hand of her ex.
 
:clap: Another great original from Connic!!!

It was nice meeting you two the other Friday night! How many books followed y'all home?
 
Great report! I'm heading down from the rust belt to SanAntonio and beyond in a couple of weeks and I might have to go a little out of the way to visit Archer City. I'm a huge fan of McMurtry and have read most of his books with the exception of Brokeback. :moon:.....I do the same thing regardless how clean my bike is when the blacktop ends. Just do it! I love the road side markers and try to hit them all. My favorite is just south of Utopia.
 
Thanks for the comments, all! :mrgreen:

It was nice meeting you two the other Friday night! How many books followed y'all home?

Hey, Jeff, it was great to meet you too. I had to go dig up some of your ride reports and show 'em to Vic once we got home on Friday... "see, this is why I recognized that guy."

Not many books followed us home, actually. The prices at Booked Up are a bit (or a lot) higher then what we're used to spending at a typical hole-in-the-wall used bookstore. We did find a few titles that sparked enough interest to make them seem worth it, but we definitely did not come home with our usual stack of cheapo reading material. Still fun browsing, though!
 
Awesome! :clap:
Been meaning to go to Archer. Looks like you found a good route. Next time you are in the vicinity of Newcastle, try Another Hole in the Wall cafe. Best danged hamburgers in Texas!

Thanks for sharing.
 
Texasdave and I took Connick's route on Saturday. Very nice ride though we skipped the gravel.

I'll have trip report posted soon. I will ride this one again.

Thanks for sharing the route!

TTR
 
Back
Top