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This is my son’s trip report and contains a lot more pictures. It is from his point of view which is in the driver’s seat. Mine is the back of the bike perspective.
There is also a link to our first trip from last year when we went to the Texas Hill Country if you are interested. The first adventure will always be the fondest memory but I don’t mind making new memories every chance I get.
Road Trippin’ with My Son – Part 2
THE INVITATION
Yo – for those of you who don’t know, this story really started last year with a trip I thought would be “one of a kind”. My son, Gene, tells his story that sometime in December I asked where we were going in the spring. My version is that I was so thrilled when he asked me to go again! Ha! Since his memory is markedly better than mine, I will concede that I may have baited him into asking me. To make matters more interesting, when my two sisters-in-law (Sissy and Sandy) heard about the trip Sandy said she thought I wasn’t going to do that again. Really? She said, “In your words – ‘been there, done that and I don’t need to do it again’ was what you said last year.’ My reply – “I lied.”
So we decide on Big Bend Country and schedule to depart on April 10, 2010. Really looking forward to it and hope we haven’t delayed the trip too long to where it is too hot. One thing I can’t take is HOT. Last year’s trip to the Hill Country brought lots of rain and hoping Spring time in West Texas is drier, but we both have great new rain suits just in case…
SATURDAY DEPARTURE
The plan was to leave very early on Saturday morning as the trip is about 430 to Seminole Canyon State Park down near Del Rio. We did not get off as early as hoped but not far off considering all the preparations that were still going on the night before. Gene did not get much sleep. I caved on him about midnight. This pattern will repeat throughout the trip.
We carried the bike down to Seminole in the pick-up bed and caught my first looks at Lake Amistad and the Pecos River. It has been a long trip but we detour over to get a better view. Not much vegetation by my standards - that equates to not much shade but a brilliant blue and I understand good fishing. I believe Jack, my husband, would like it and we should come for a vacation sometime.
Before we left Gene asked if my medications are in their original containers as we will be going through some Boarder Patrols. Well, off course they are not – they are in one of those daily dispensers. As soon as we turn on HWY 90 we have our first encounter with the Boarder Patrol. I am wild about the beautiful German Shepard and want to take a picture. Gene says “no – they don’t want their picture taken.” I assure him I will just get a shot of the dog but he pulled away ASAP but not before asking them if the Café is open in Comstock. Always planning that next meal you know. Ha!
We arrive at the Seminole Canyon State Park just after 5 so the rangers have gone for the day. We do the self-check in process. Pick a site not far from the “facilities” of course and get unloaded. It is warm but okay. Camp gets set up and since it is not possible to carry food we are soon on our way to Comstock for dinner. Unfortunately, after a beer and Gene has a chance to visit with a couple guys about the Devils River, we discover the cook is sick and we need to move on. On the way to dinner we pass several javelinas – my first experience. UGLYYYYYY! I can see where they could be dangerous.
We continued to dinner at a very nice steak house. We were tired and hungry and fortunately there was a nice place to enjoy a relaxed meal.
Back at the campsite we discover we have taken a space that should have been reserved for a magnet school trip out of Austin. As I recall, there were 5 teachers with 17 boys and 4 girls. The girls are not well represented but still 2 female teachers were present. Anyway, the mix up did not cause them much trouble and they let us keep our place.
The night sky is the big winner of the day. I do not think I have ever seen such brilliance in the sky. Gene says it may even be better at Big Bend but I cannot imagine feeling closer to the stars than I did that night. I fell asleep looking at the sky while listening to the guitar music and singing from our academic group next door,
SUNDAY – SUNDAY
Got up to visit the nearby facilities in the early morning hours and all the stars were GONE! Woops, rain is in the air. Oh, no, not again! We got up in time to head to the ranger station for the 10 o’clock tour of Seminole Canyon which ended at the Fate Bell Shelter. The Austin kids and two other ladies joined us on the tour. I cannot say enough positive words regarding the young people on the tour. They were attentive, had questions and were well behaved. Apparently one of the instructors really knew his stuff and pointed out specific information he wanted his group to take from this tour. Our guide, Mr. Williams, was excellent.
Mr. Williams and some of the young people.
It is time to hit the road. The weather is threatening, but we have it covered. We dropped the pick-up off on the Pecos River and mounted up for the first time. Destination – Fort Stockton – the scenic route.
We wind around and take a good look at the Pecos. It is an impressive river to me with deep canyons. Jack likes rock formations and he would enjoy this. We start on a loop to get to Ft. Stockton and the vegetation gradually changes from canyons to flat deserts. Makes you wonder how people make a living in this country. I read a book (Judge Roy Bean Country) after I got back and it gave me an excellent view of how life was in the 1800’s. Trust me, it was primitive. You had to have a lot of land to make it as it is so arid here. Many families had to maintain 2 homes so that the children could live in town and go to school. The coming of the railroad changed everything but looking at it today, I don’t think the rural areas really have changed that much. Either they haven’t changed or I just can’t imagine how primitive it really was.
And the road kill was incredible. Who hit them? We saw 1 (yes, I said 1) vehicle on the road to Ozona, so who are those crazy animals running in to? It was bizarre when we really thought about it. But we forgot all about it when we got to chow down at a little place in Ozona. On to Ft. Stockton!
The terrain is really flat now and we intersect with US285 and enter a Ft. Stockton to Sanderson Great Race stretch of the road. Gene tells me about this race and we find out it was to be held April 20th through the 23rd this year. The course is 59 miles (118 round trip) with no speed limit!!! Checking out the internet site it appears they do have it prepared in such a way that not just any speed hound can hit the road. This looks like something I would like to do (as a passenger in a car only).
WEDNESDAY, APRIL 21 - SANDERSON
Location: Terrell County Courthouse and Square (north of downtown two blocks, behind school)
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. & 1:00 - 4:00 p.m. Registration - Senior Center (behind courthouse)
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. & 1:00 - 4:00 p.m. Technical Inspection - Courthouse Parking Lot
10:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Rookie School - in Courthouse
Qualifying & Practice Location: US 90 just West of Sanderson
9:00 a.m. - 12 noon Qualifying and/or Practice
1:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m. Rookie Qualifying and/or Practice
Tips & Notes: Wednesday is the preferred day for Rookie instruction & Qualifying. Make sure you have all your paper work filled out & your car ready for Technical Inspection (that means all your personal race gear as well).
6:30 p.m. Course Worker Safety Meeting, Court House, 2nd floor
THURSDAY, APRIL 22 - SANDERSON
Location: Terrell County Courthouse and Square
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. & 1:00 - 4:00 p.m. Registration - Senior Center (behind courthouse)
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. & 1:00 - 4:00 p.m. Technical Inspection - Courthouse Parking Lot
10:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Rookie School - in Courthouse
Qualifying & Practice Location: US 90 just West of Sanderson
9:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Practice (Rookie Qualifying if necessary)
1:00 p.m. - 4:00 p.m. Practice (Rookie Qualifying if necessary)
Welcome Party Location: Bi-Centennial park across from Courthouse)
5:00 p.m. Welcome party - presented by the Sanderson Chamber of Commerce.
FRIDAY, APRIL 23 - FORT STOCKTON
Location: Rooney Park (South on US 285 from downtown - North of Start/Finish)
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Registration - Large Community Hall
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Technical Inspection - Parking Lot
Note : All Division/Class changes should be made by close of registration at 12 noon.
2:00 p.m. - 3:00 p.m. Co-Drivers (Navigators) School - Large Community Hall
3:00 p.m. - 4:00 p.m. Drivers/Co-Drivers Mandatory Meeting - Large Community Hall - optional
4:00 p.m. - 5:30 p.m. Car Show – Zero Stone Park – Main & Callaghan
5:30 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. Parade from park to West on Dickinson to end of town.
Location: Civic Center
6:30 p.m. Course Workers Meeting & Gate Assignment
SATURDAY, APRIL 24 - FORT STOCKTON
Location: Rooney Park
6:00 a.m. - Pre Grid All Race Cars to Pre-Grid at park
Location: US 285 just after Mockingbird Lane
7:00 a.m. - Course Sweep All Gate, Flag & Safety Stations ready before 7:00 a.m.
7:30 a.m. - Race Grid All Race Cars to Race Grid on US 285
8:00 a.m. Race Start to Sanderson (turn around at Courthouse)
After finish of Sanderson run Race Start to Fort Stockton
Ft. Stockton Finish Line Party in Rooney Park
Location: Civic Center
7:30 p.m. Banquet & Awards Ceremony
Ft. Stockton ahead and we are looking for thrifty accommodations. First stop appears acceptable to me but Gene says “let’s keep looking”. Anybody find that amusing besides me? Perseverance pays off and we find a freshly remodeled room for just the right price.
A nice shower and it is dinner time. Sunday in Ft. Stockton is not a food friendly place. We end up at a truck stop, the only place we find open besides fast food. Just to make things more unfriendly – it takes forever to get our food. I live with the philosophy of “age has its privilege”. Interpretation: I can be *****y if I want to. Gene gives me the lecture about they don’t operate on the same “time is of the essence” concept as we do in the city. Ha! Ha! One of the books I read on Big Bend Country stated it well:
“Hispanics tend to be more relaxed and flexible about time and punctuality – moder societal structure of Terlingua today = Terlingua time.” Guess Ft. Stockton is on Terlingua time and I need to get on it too. Go to bed, son.
MONDAY IS A GOOD DAY TO START ANEW
It is a straight, flat road to Balmorhea (I-10). Nothing much to see and the speed limit is 75 so I think I actually took a little nap. That bike is beginning to feel like home and is contouring to my flank just fine. I think the Strom is plenty comfortable on a straight away. We made really good time and got there around ten.
Balmorhea State Park is waiting. The San Solomon Springs are incredible and have provided water to the area for thousands of years (originally called the Mescalero Springs). I don’t want to repeat all the pictures but they are worth a look in Gene’s report. Imagine – 1 million gallons an hour flow in and out of the pool at Balmorhea! It would take 4 hours to refill the pool. The whole town is an oasis feeding on the water from these springs and they have TREES and agriculture! It is a very small town with little to do – the park puts it on the map and that is pretty much it.
The temperature was pretty cool when we got there as I still wore a jacket but Gene was not to be deterred – he was going for a dip. Not me. I did put my feet in the water but I was otherwise content to take pictures.
A French Canadian Lady swam up while Gene was in the water and shared her views on how Americans do not appreciate what they have in their State Parks and just to prove her right, some children started feeding the ducks and fish in the pool which should have been a “no-no”. All through the conversation she was treading water with little or no effort.
Look carefully and you can see Gene coming to the surface.
While the skies are still blue, we decide it is time for lunch and moving on to Fort Davis. Word of caution – make sure you have plenty of gas because there will be nothing on the way. Unfortunately, they are pretty proud of their gas in Balmorhea. Bring money!
Now the road picks up some character on the way to Ft. Davis and is a welcome change from the runway we were on from Ft. Stockton to Balmorhea. As we approach the Davis Mountains I begin to realize that mountain biking (up, down, up, down) takes a little more support effort from the passenger. Really have to use the legs and back more to maintain position. The road to Ft. Davis was nice but now it is going to get even better.
We check in at our campsite at the Ft. Davis State Park and get the tent up (“we” means Gene of course). Things are in order just in time to realize RAIN is on the way. We can see it but can’t quite smell it yet. Not to be put off (we are familiar with wet from last year’s experience) we move out for the 74 mile Alpine loop, a truly scenic passage through the Davis Mountains. First stop – the McDonald Observatory.
It is only about 10 miles or so to the observatory – but they are the BEST 10 miles of the trip. Better yet – the best 10 miles I have had on a bike – period. I highly recommend it. The road is so twisted and windy that I could not comfortably bring the camera out and take what should have been awesome pictures. Instead, I was just trying to keep my seat on the back of the bike! The road itself was breathtaking. We dismount at the observatory and take a few pictures before going in.
The receptionist at the observatory was quick to say, “You will want to get off this mountain before the rain really hits.” She went on to tell us how treacherous the roads could be with a driving rain and she had some bikers that tried to leave a few days earlier and they made 4 attempts to leave before they were able to get down. That sounded pretty unpleasant, so we decided to skip the tour of the observatory and get going. Once outside, we went higher up the mountain as far as the road would take us to the last observatory and surveyed our surroundings. The rain was coming but I thought if we left now we could actually circle around behind. Gene asked if I wanted to risk it “Let’s go now.”
Long story short, we got wet, but we got wet on the flat part of the road coming back into Ft. Davis from the West side of Loop 166. We had to stop several times to let the rain move ahead of us but we got her done and enjoyed the heck out of it.
View from the top of the observatory.
Wait for it – wait for the storm to move out ahead of us.
Once back at the Ft. Davis State Park we take a ride up Skyline Drive and explore a little. What the heck, we are already wet. Not my finest picture.
The view was spectacular.
This is my favorite picture.
It is time to clean up and go into town for dinner. Find a pretty nice Italian place in Ft. Davis and make phone calls while we can. Cellular signals are few and far between in this country so you need to make the call when you can. Now Gene gets the serious news about Pat (his second mom). She has been dealing with a long-term illness and is in intensive care and not expected to make it this time. I gladly share my son with this wonderful woman and if he wants to call her “Mom” I know they are both fortunate to have that relationship.
We discuss her condition and I ask if he wants to go home. We both know his other mom would not want him to do that so we do decide to shave off a day by skipping Big Bend State Park and going directly to Big Bend National Park in the morning instead.
We return to camp in silence. Once there we take a little stroll to the Indian Lodge. It is a beautiful place and Gene has a nice picture in his report. Below is just a zoomed in version of his pic. Unfortunately the dinning room is closed on Mondays (we were thinking a drink or desert) and there is no such thing as a bar. I was told that there would be no alcohol in State Parks by the attendant – Well, What Was I Thinking????
We do get to tour the place and see how it was built in the 1930’s. Just putting in Skyline Drive was an adventure and quite a feat. Back at camp we feed the need for a toddy (discreetly, of course). It is time for me to turn in. Tomorrow is another day with lots of miles to go.
IF IT IS TUESDAY WE MUST BE IN BIG BEND
First stop of the day – Alpine. We make several stops in search of a battery for the camera. This is the largest town around but no go. We are now tasked to conserve as much of the battery life that we have left. This makes it more difficult to make shots from the back of the bike and I am sure I butchered many. We are later forced to buy a disposable to get just a few more shots. Lesson learned – bring back up.
We push on to Terlingua where we had lunch – Mexican food again. It is a good thing we really, really like Mexican food. Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday lunches are all Mexican cuisine. No matter – I am now officially on “Terlingua Time”,
Now we are about to enter the Great National Park of Big Bend. I read prior to the visit a reporter who accompanied a 1916 military expedition into Big Bend region described the area in the following terms, “The country isn’t bad. It’s just worse. Worse the moment you set foot from the train and then, after that, just worser and worser.”
Yep, you know what I was expecting. After I got home I also read from a book on the area the following dire comment:
“There is no verdure to soften the bare and rugged view: no overhanging trees or green bushes to vary the scene from one of perfect desolation.” Maj. William H. Emory’s Report of the US and Mexican Boundary Survey. (Okay, I confess, I had to look up “verdure” – (n.) greenness, luxuriance.)
Most of us think of the mountains or the water as good vacation options (I do anyway), but my son loves the barren and primitive landscapes. Moab is on his agenda every year. Me, I like shade, but this landscape is awesome. I tried to capture the standing armies of cacti but my camera could not do it justice.
As we entered the park Gene asked about Maverick road and is advised that it is not recommended unless you have four-wheel drive. We head for the Chisos Mountains Basin. Yes, there is a mountain and it rises out of the flat altitude at the Rio Grande River of about 1800 ft. to 7800 at the crest of the Chisos Mountains. The assent is rapid and steep – again, too steep to pull out the dying camera on the run. The Chisos Basin elevation is 5401 Ft. and that is our first stop because you cannot go to Big Bend without looking through the window. The hike to the window is easy, easy, easy.
View through the window.
Since it is still a bit of a ride to the Cottonwood Camping Area, we don’t stay too long at the basin. Again we look for a camera battery without success and so we cave and buy the disposable. Good thing too, because our camera had little life left in her.
We took the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to the campground and it was a pleasant ride with great vistas. It is also on the “must do list”. There are really a lot of “must do” events in Big Bend and we sort of had a crude list mostly in our heads. Another one checked off the list.
One more time, we (Gene) sets up camp and it looks very homey. While he is gone to pay the fees I have an encounter with a very brave critter. She (I think) completely circles the table I am sitting at as if to mark its territory and let me know that I had not intimidated her at all. Apparently, bird watching is a very big deal in the Big Bend area. We saw bird watchers at Ft. Davis as well. There were nature tours for the Bird people at both of these parks. Where we were camping at the Cottonwood a group came out to observe some creature. We never knew what they were looking at but the folks came from all over the campground so it must have been special.
It is a long drive back into Terlingua but we can save 30 miles or so if we try the Maverick road. Now remember – it was NOT RECOMMENDED, and it was not recommended for a reason as it turned out. The road from this camping area to the Santa Elena Canyon often floods and this was one of those “often floods” times that they refer to, so our first obstacle was water.
What kind of photographer am I? Not a very good one. Gene had me get off the bike so he could test the road. Fool that I am - I did not get the picture of his going and the magnificent rooster tail of water. By the time I got with the program he was on his way back. In the mean time, a car has pulled up behind me and they are taking their own pics. Gene told me to “get on” and I asked if he was “serious”!!! The lady in the car in her neat European accent yells “Go for it, go for it.” And so I do, with feet held as high as I could get them, we went. I know they got the best picture of all.
Ride, Gene, Ride.
We pass the entrance to St. Elena Canyon and it looks awesome, but that will have to wait till tomorrow. As I said, it is a long way to Terlingua to get dinner and then a long trip home in the dark so we have to keep moving. Oh well, we are going to save 30 miles by taking the Maverick Road but will we save any time? If the 10 miles in the Davis Mountains were the best – the 8 miles down the Maverick were the WORST! I thought I got off the bike a full two inches shorter and my back felt fractured. But – the worst was the left cheek of my rear!!!! Ohhhh. Somewhere along the washboard road Gene apologized for choosing this route but “we only have 5 miles to go”. I know I shrieked “5 miles”! I really thought this has to be over soon. Word – if they tell you it is not recommended accept it and go the long way.
Dinner at the Kiva. I can’t even remember what I had (just know it wasn’t Mexican and there was a baked potato). It was open mic night and the DJ sounded pretty good. I thought he looked like Uncle Gordon and Grandpa - Gene agreed. Gene has Gordie’s picture in his report.
After being serenaded and feeling full but comfortable we went outside to make contact with the rest of the world which may not be on “Terlingua Time”. Gene got the bad news that his adoptive mom (Pat) has passed away and there will be a memorial on Thursday. Wow, we were not quite ready for that. We shed a tear together and talked awhile. He made several more calls to his adoptive family but had trouble getting service to most. Eventually, we arrived at the only decision we could make and that was to pack it up in the morning and burn up the highways trying to get home in time for the memorial. I don’t know if that is what Pat would have wanted. I am sure she would have said “Stay on your trip with your mom as time is precious” but I could not let my son miss being with the family he loved and I know he felt he could be of some help to them. Regrettably, St. Elena will have to wait - Family First. So we wiped away our tears and started out trip back to the campground each of us full of our own thoughts.
The night sky and stars keep us company. The trip includes many, many snakes seeking the heat still in the pavement. I miss most of them because the view from the back of a bike can’t pick up that activity so easily. Gene makes sure I get a good look by circling back. Sweet dreams now, I’m sure.
We come back into camp at 10 and we are trying to be as quiet as you can on a motorcycle but we had visitors at our campsite. We could not believe what we saw – a dozen or more javelina just routing the ground around our tent. They were not moved by the sound of the bike or lights. Gene got me off the bike and proceeded to charge the ugly brood while honking the horn. A neighbor asked the next morning what all the commotion was about. The picture below was taken off the internet, but it reflects pretty much what we were greeted by that night times 10! Really, it must be time for a toddy.
These are the things dreams are made of - I sure did not forget these hideous creatures. As I came out of the restroom in the wee hours of the morning I heard snorting sounds and I started shining my headlamp up and down looking for pigs (they are not really pigs) and snakes at the same time. As I got closer to the tent I realized Gene was in a deep slumber which included a little snoring. It is possible he has had more than one toddy. I lay there looking at the stars and just thinking. Final decision – the stars were brighter at Seminole or maybe it was my mood……….
WEDNESDAY IS HUMP DAY
Packed up and ready to roll but not before hitting a few more highlights in Big Bend.
The Strom is one fine bike and does its duty well.
Desolate as it may seem there are many things to see and do in Big Bend. It is unfortunate that we did not have as much time to complete our “must do” list but we made the best of it. So, from the southern part of the park we made our way to Panther Junction to refuel and then continued to Rio Grand Village. Really liked the village and wanted to see it as it is one of the two camp areas that can accommodate RVs. The other RV area is at the Chisos Basin. Large RVs cannot get into the Chisos but they can at the Rio. Gene and I shared a drink and a bag of chips which was just an addition to our normal breakfast of a shared protein bar, but we did not want to spoil our lunch plans in Marathon.
After leaving the Rio Grand Village we went to the Rio Grande Overlook. The mighty Rio is just below and we can see a couple of row boats on the other side which is Boquillas, Mexico. We find small craft items from the Mexican side of the Rio and they are for purchase via the honor system. Gene simply makes a donation and takes nothing – me I choose a painted rock as a souvenir. I am still wondering where the Boarder Patrol is when someone comes to collect the funds and leave further trade items for a new day. While I don’t want to take away anyone’s living I am not happy that there are exceptions being made. We (my opinion only) need to keep it equitable for all.
It is time to hit the road. The planned schedule says we need to leave Big Bend by 11 and head for lunch at the famed Gage Hotel in Marathon, TX. I read about this in my on-line research prior to the trip. Two things caught my attention – 1) Rumor has it; the Gage has at least 3 resident spooks. Ask for room 10 if you want to be a believer. And – 2) The Gage Hotel Chef is featured (as well as three of his recipes) in the book, Top Texas Chefs. Sounds good to me. So we exit the northern entrance to the park via Persimmon Gap. Good Bye Big Bend or as Gene put it – Smiles before the miles.
The Gage Hotel is the most prominent building in Marathon, but then Marathon isn’t that big that we would not have found it anyway. It is truly lovely, originally constructed in 1926 as a family dwelling. It has that really comfortable feeling with cats on the front porch asking for attention and a big dog on the cool flooring as you step inside that could care less about anyone who enters. Hey, that is a roll reversal in my book.
Once inside we discover they are not open for lunch!!!!!! It was one of the two things I said I wanted to do specifically and we had gone out of our way just so we could eat there. The best laid plans of mice and men……. How does it go?
After taking pictures of the courtyard, and a few pictures inside we step next door to a small deli like shop. Visiting with the folks in the deli we are told that there was a really good hail storm 2 days earlier (softball size) that busted out windows and windshields!!!! That is the same storm we encountered in the Davis Mountains. They said the hail gathered strength and intensity as it moved eastward until it could hold back no longer. I say it was a narrow miss for a couple of folks on a bike….
We are now using our disposable camera and so we don’t get many pictures on this final day but it is all just about the road to be traveled as quickly as possible after leaving Marathon.
Our final picture of the trip captures Gene in front of the Gage. It is time to move on.
There is a small side trip to Langtry (my other request) and then we make it back to the truck at the Pecos and then to Seminole State Park in time to make it to the visitor’s center and purchase books we had our eye on when we first came through. We take advantage of their showers and head for Denton. It was a long drive but the company was the best. Don’t you know our last meal on the road was more Mexican chow? Of course, you knew.
I am just glad the mission of getting home in time for Gene to be with his other family was accomplished and I don’t regret our decision one bit. “Family First” and Gene does that very well every day.
So – what about next year…..?
http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?p=739302#post739302
This is my son’s trip report and contains a lot more pictures. It is from his point of view which is in the driver’s seat. Mine is the back of the bike perspective.
There is also a link to our first trip from last year when we went to the Texas Hill Country if you are interested. The first adventure will always be the fondest memory but I don’t mind making new memories every chance I get.
Road Trippin’ with My Son – Part 2
THE INVITATION
Yo – for those of you who don’t know, this story really started last year with a trip I thought would be “one of a kind”. My son, Gene, tells his story that sometime in December I asked where we were going in the spring. My version is that I was so thrilled when he asked me to go again! Ha! Since his memory is markedly better than mine, I will concede that I may have baited him into asking me. To make matters more interesting, when my two sisters-in-law (Sissy and Sandy) heard about the trip Sandy said she thought I wasn’t going to do that again. Really? She said, “In your words – ‘been there, done that and I don’t need to do it again’ was what you said last year.’ My reply – “I lied.”
So we decide on Big Bend Country and schedule to depart on April 10, 2010. Really looking forward to it and hope we haven’t delayed the trip too long to where it is too hot. One thing I can’t take is HOT. Last year’s trip to the Hill Country brought lots of rain and hoping Spring time in West Texas is drier, but we both have great new rain suits just in case…
SATURDAY DEPARTURE
The plan was to leave very early on Saturday morning as the trip is about 430 to Seminole Canyon State Park down near Del Rio. We did not get off as early as hoped but not far off considering all the preparations that were still going on the night before. Gene did not get much sleep. I caved on him about midnight. This pattern will repeat throughout the trip.
We carried the bike down to Seminole in the pick-up bed and caught my first looks at Lake Amistad and the Pecos River. It has been a long trip but we detour over to get a better view. Not much vegetation by my standards - that equates to not much shade but a brilliant blue and I understand good fishing. I believe Jack, my husband, would like it and we should come for a vacation sometime.
Before we left Gene asked if my medications are in their original containers as we will be going through some Boarder Patrols. Well, off course they are not – they are in one of those daily dispensers. As soon as we turn on HWY 90 we have our first encounter with the Boarder Patrol. I am wild about the beautiful German Shepard and want to take a picture. Gene says “no – they don’t want their picture taken.” I assure him I will just get a shot of the dog but he pulled away ASAP but not before asking them if the Café is open in Comstock. Always planning that next meal you know. Ha!
We arrive at the Seminole Canyon State Park just after 5 so the rangers have gone for the day. We do the self-check in process. Pick a site not far from the “facilities” of course and get unloaded. It is warm but okay. Camp gets set up and since it is not possible to carry food we are soon on our way to Comstock for dinner. Unfortunately, after a beer and Gene has a chance to visit with a couple guys about the Devils River, we discover the cook is sick and we need to move on. On the way to dinner we pass several javelinas – my first experience. UGLYYYYYY! I can see where they could be dangerous.
We continued to dinner at a very nice steak house. We were tired and hungry and fortunately there was a nice place to enjoy a relaxed meal.
Back at the campsite we discover we have taken a space that should have been reserved for a magnet school trip out of Austin. As I recall, there were 5 teachers with 17 boys and 4 girls. The girls are not well represented but still 2 female teachers were present. Anyway, the mix up did not cause them much trouble and they let us keep our place.
The night sky is the big winner of the day. I do not think I have ever seen such brilliance in the sky. Gene says it may even be better at Big Bend but I cannot imagine feeling closer to the stars than I did that night. I fell asleep looking at the sky while listening to the guitar music and singing from our academic group next door,
SUNDAY – SUNDAY
Got up to visit the nearby facilities in the early morning hours and all the stars were GONE! Woops, rain is in the air. Oh, no, not again! We got up in time to head to the ranger station for the 10 o’clock tour of Seminole Canyon which ended at the Fate Bell Shelter. The Austin kids and two other ladies joined us on the tour. I cannot say enough positive words regarding the young people on the tour. They were attentive, had questions and were well behaved. Apparently one of the instructors really knew his stuff and pointed out specific information he wanted his group to take from this tour. Our guide, Mr. Williams, was excellent.
Mr. Williams and some of the young people.
It is time to hit the road. The weather is threatening, but we have it covered. We dropped the pick-up off on the Pecos River and mounted up for the first time. Destination – Fort Stockton – the scenic route.
We wind around and take a good look at the Pecos. It is an impressive river to me with deep canyons. Jack likes rock formations and he would enjoy this. We start on a loop to get to Ft. Stockton and the vegetation gradually changes from canyons to flat deserts. Makes you wonder how people make a living in this country. I read a book (Judge Roy Bean Country) after I got back and it gave me an excellent view of how life was in the 1800’s. Trust me, it was primitive. You had to have a lot of land to make it as it is so arid here. Many families had to maintain 2 homes so that the children could live in town and go to school. The coming of the railroad changed everything but looking at it today, I don’t think the rural areas really have changed that much. Either they haven’t changed or I just can’t imagine how primitive it really was.
And the road kill was incredible. Who hit them? We saw 1 (yes, I said 1) vehicle on the road to Ozona, so who are those crazy animals running in to? It was bizarre when we really thought about it. But we forgot all about it when we got to chow down at a little place in Ozona. On to Ft. Stockton!
The terrain is really flat now and we intersect with US285 and enter a Ft. Stockton to Sanderson Great Race stretch of the road. Gene tells me about this race and we find out it was to be held April 20th through the 23rd this year. The course is 59 miles (118 round trip) with no speed limit!!! Checking out the internet site it appears they do have it prepared in such a way that not just any speed hound can hit the road. This looks like something I would like to do (as a passenger in a car only).
WEDNESDAY, APRIL 21 - SANDERSON
Location: Terrell County Courthouse and Square (north of downtown two blocks, behind school)
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. & 1:00 - 4:00 p.m. Registration - Senior Center (behind courthouse)
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. & 1:00 - 4:00 p.m. Technical Inspection - Courthouse Parking Lot
10:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Rookie School - in Courthouse
Qualifying & Practice Location: US 90 just West of Sanderson
9:00 a.m. - 12 noon Qualifying and/or Practice
1:00 p.m. - 5:00 p.m. Rookie Qualifying and/or Practice
Tips & Notes: Wednesday is the preferred day for Rookie instruction & Qualifying. Make sure you have all your paper work filled out & your car ready for Technical Inspection (that means all your personal race gear as well).
6:30 p.m. Course Worker Safety Meeting, Court House, 2nd floor
THURSDAY, APRIL 22 - SANDERSON
Location: Terrell County Courthouse and Square
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. & 1:00 - 4:00 p.m. Registration - Senior Center (behind courthouse)
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. & 1:00 - 4:00 p.m. Technical Inspection - Courthouse Parking Lot
10:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Rookie School - in Courthouse
Qualifying & Practice Location: US 90 just West of Sanderson
9:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Practice (Rookie Qualifying if necessary)
1:00 p.m. - 4:00 p.m. Practice (Rookie Qualifying if necessary)
Welcome Party Location: Bi-Centennial park across from Courthouse)
5:00 p.m. Welcome party - presented by the Sanderson Chamber of Commerce.
FRIDAY, APRIL 23 - FORT STOCKTON
Location: Rooney Park (South on US 285 from downtown - North of Start/Finish)
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Registration - Large Community Hall
8:00 a.m. - 12:00 p.m. Technical Inspection - Parking Lot
Note : All Division/Class changes should be made by close of registration at 12 noon.
2:00 p.m. - 3:00 p.m. Co-Drivers (Navigators) School - Large Community Hall
3:00 p.m. - 4:00 p.m. Drivers/Co-Drivers Mandatory Meeting - Large Community Hall - optional
4:00 p.m. - 5:30 p.m. Car Show – Zero Stone Park – Main & Callaghan
5:30 p.m. - 6:00 p.m. Parade from park to West on Dickinson to end of town.
Location: Civic Center
6:30 p.m. Course Workers Meeting & Gate Assignment
SATURDAY, APRIL 24 - FORT STOCKTON
Location: Rooney Park
6:00 a.m. - Pre Grid All Race Cars to Pre-Grid at park
Location: US 285 just after Mockingbird Lane
7:00 a.m. - Course Sweep All Gate, Flag & Safety Stations ready before 7:00 a.m.
7:30 a.m. - Race Grid All Race Cars to Race Grid on US 285
8:00 a.m. Race Start to Sanderson (turn around at Courthouse)
After finish of Sanderson run Race Start to Fort Stockton
Ft. Stockton Finish Line Party in Rooney Park
Location: Civic Center
7:30 p.m. Banquet & Awards Ceremony
Ft. Stockton ahead and we are looking for thrifty accommodations. First stop appears acceptable to me but Gene says “let’s keep looking”. Anybody find that amusing besides me? Perseverance pays off and we find a freshly remodeled room for just the right price.
A nice shower and it is dinner time. Sunday in Ft. Stockton is not a food friendly place. We end up at a truck stop, the only place we find open besides fast food. Just to make things more unfriendly – it takes forever to get our food. I live with the philosophy of “age has its privilege”. Interpretation: I can be *****y if I want to. Gene gives me the lecture about they don’t operate on the same “time is of the essence” concept as we do in the city. Ha! Ha! One of the books I read on Big Bend Country stated it well:
“Hispanics tend to be more relaxed and flexible about time and punctuality – moder societal structure of Terlingua today = Terlingua time.” Guess Ft. Stockton is on Terlingua time and I need to get on it too. Go to bed, son.
MONDAY IS A GOOD DAY TO START ANEW
It is a straight, flat road to Balmorhea (I-10). Nothing much to see and the speed limit is 75 so I think I actually took a little nap. That bike is beginning to feel like home and is contouring to my flank just fine. I think the Strom is plenty comfortable on a straight away. We made really good time and got there around ten.
Balmorhea State Park is waiting. The San Solomon Springs are incredible and have provided water to the area for thousands of years (originally called the Mescalero Springs). I don’t want to repeat all the pictures but they are worth a look in Gene’s report. Imagine – 1 million gallons an hour flow in and out of the pool at Balmorhea! It would take 4 hours to refill the pool. The whole town is an oasis feeding on the water from these springs and they have TREES and agriculture! It is a very small town with little to do – the park puts it on the map and that is pretty much it.
The temperature was pretty cool when we got there as I still wore a jacket but Gene was not to be deterred – he was going for a dip. Not me. I did put my feet in the water but I was otherwise content to take pictures.
A French Canadian Lady swam up while Gene was in the water and shared her views on how Americans do not appreciate what they have in their State Parks and just to prove her right, some children started feeding the ducks and fish in the pool which should have been a “no-no”. All through the conversation she was treading water with little or no effort.
Look carefully and you can see Gene coming to the surface.
While the skies are still blue, we decide it is time for lunch and moving on to Fort Davis. Word of caution – make sure you have plenty of gas because there will be nothing on the way. Unfortunately, they are pretty proud of their gas in Balmorhea. Bring money!
Now the road picks up some character on the way to Ft. Davis and is a welcome change from the runway we were on from Ft. Stockton to Balmorhea. As we approach the Davis Mountains I begin to realize that mountain biking (up, down, up, down) takes a little more support effort from the passenger. Really have to use the legs and back more to maintain position. The road to Ft. Davis was nice but now it is going to get even better.
We check in at our campsite at the Ft. Davis State Park and get the tent up (“we” means Gene of course). Things are in order just in time to realize RAIN is on the way. We can see it but can’t quite smell it yet. Not to be put off (we are familiar with wet from last year’s experience) we move out for the 74 mile Alpine loop, a truly scenic passage through the Davis Mountains. First stop – the McDonald Observatory.
It is only about 10 miles or so to the observatory – but they are the BEST 10 miles of the trip. Better yet – the best 10 miles I have had on a bike – period. I highly recommend it. The road is so twisted and windy that I could not comfortably bring the camera out and take what should have been awesome pictures. Instead, I was just trying to keep my seat on the back of the bike! The road itself was breathtaking. We dismount at the observatory and take a few pictures before going in.
The receptionist at the observatory was quick to say, “You will want to get off this mountain before the rain really hits.” She went on to tell us how treacherous the roads could be with a driving rain and she had some bikers that tried to leave a few days earlier and they made 4 attempts to leave before they were able to get down. That sounded pretty unpleasant, so we decided to skip the tour of the observatory and get going. Once outside, we went higher up the mountain as far as the road would take us to the last observatory and surveyed our surroundings. The rain was coming but I thought if we left now we could actually circle around behind. Gene asked if I wanted to risk it “Let’s go now.”
Long story short, we got wet, but we got wet on the flat part of the road coming back into Ft. Davis from the West side of Loop 166. We had to stop several times to let the rain move ahead of us but we got her done and enjoyed the heck out of it.
View from the top of the observatory.
Wait for it – wait for the storm to move out ahead of us.
Once back at the Ft. Davis State Park we take a ride up Skyline Drive and explore a little. What the heck, we are already wet. Not my finest picture.
The view was spectacular.
This is my favorite picture.
It is time to clean up and go into town for dinner. Find a pretty nice Italian place in Ft. Davis and make phone calls while we can. Cellular signals are few and far between in this country so you need to make the call when you can. Now Gene gets the serious news about Pat (his second mom). She has been dealing with a long-term illness and is in intensive care and not expected to make it this time. I gladly share my son with this wonderful woman and if he wants to call her “Mom” I know they are both fortunate to have that relationship.
We discuss her condition and I ask if he wants to go home. We both know his other mom would not want him to do that so we do decide to shave off a day by skipping Big Bend State Park and going directly to Big Bend National Park in the morning instead.
We return to camp in silence. Once there we take a little stroll to the Indian Lodge. It is a beautiful place and Gene has a nice picture in his report. Below is just a zoomed in version of his pic. Unfortunately the dinning room is closed on Mondays (we were thinking a drink or desert) and there is no such thing as a bar. I was told that there would be no alcohol in State Parks by the attendant – Well, What Was I Thinking????
We do get to tour the place and see how it was built in the 1930’s. Just putting in Skyline Drive was an adventure and quite a feat. Back at camp we feed the need for a toddy (discreetly, of course). It is time for me to turn in. Tomorrow is another day with lots of miles to go.
IF IT IS TUESDAY WE MUST BE IN BIG BEND
First stop of the day – Alpine. We make several stops in search of a battery for the camera. This is the largest town around but no go. We are now tasked to conserve as much of the battery life that we have left. This makes it more difficult to make shots from the back of the bike and I am sure I butchered many. We are later forced to buy a disposable to get just a few more shots. Lesson learned – bring back up.
We push on to Terlingua where we had lunch – Mexican food again. It is a good thing we really, really like Mexican food. Saturday, Sunday, Monday and Tuesday lunches are all Mexican cuisine. No matter – I am now officially on “Terlingua Time”,
Now we are about to enter the Great National Park of Big Bend. I read prior to the visit a reporter who accompanied a 1916 military expedition into Big Bend region described the area in the following terms, “The country isn’t bad. It’s just worse. Worse the moment you set foot from the train and then, after that, just worser and worser.”
Yep, you know what I was expecting. After I got home I also read from a book on the area the following dire comment:
“There is no verdure to soften the bare and rugged view: no overhanging trees or green bushes to vary the scene from one of perfect desolation.” Maj. William H. Emory’s Report of the US and Mexican Boundary Survey. (Okay, I confess, I had to look up “verdure” – (n.) greenness, luxuriance.)
Most of us think of the mountains or the water as good vacation options (I do anyway), but my son loves the barren and primitive landscapes. Moab is on his agenda every year. Me, I like shade, but this landscape is awesome. I tried to capture the standing armies of cacti but my camera could not do it justice.
As we entered the park Gene asked about Maverick road and is advised that it is not recommended unless you have four-wheel drive. We head for the Chisos Mountains Basin. Yes, there is a mountain and it rises out of the flat altitude at the Rio Grande River of about 1800 ft. to 7800 at the crest of the Chisos Mountains. The assent is rapid and steep – again, too steep to pull out the dying camera on the run. The Chisos Basin elevation is 5401 Ft. and that is our first stop because you cannot go to Big Bend without looking through the window. The hike to the window is easy, easy, easy.
View through the window.
Since it is still a bit of a ride to the Cottonwood Camping Area, we don’t stay too long at the basin. Again we look for a camera battery without success and so we cave and buy the disposable. Good thing too, because our camera had little life left in her.
We took the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive to the campground and it was a pleasant ride with great vistas. It is also on the “must do list”. There are really a lot of “must do” events in Big Bend and we sort of had a crude list mostly in our heads. Another one checked off the list.
One more time, we (Gene) sets up camp and it looks very homey. While he is gone to pay the fees I have an encounter with a very brave critter. She (I think) completely circles the table I am sitting at as if to mark its territory and let me know that I had not intimidated her at all. Apparently, bird watching is a very big deal in the Big Bend area. We saw bird watchers at Ft. Davis as well. There were nature tours for the Bird people at both of these parks. Where we were camping at the Cottonwood a group came out to observe some creature. We never knew what they were looking at but the folks came from all over the campground so it must have been special.
It is a long drive back into Terlingua but we can save 30 miles or so if we try the Maverick road. Now remember – it was NOT RECOMMENDED, and it was not recommended for a reason as it turned out. The road from this camping area to the Santa Elena Canyon often floods and this was one of those “often floods” times that they refer to, so our first obstacle was water.
What kind of photographer am I? Not a very good one. Gene had me get off the bike so he could test the road. Fool that I am - I did not get the picture of his going and the magnificent rooster tail of water. By the time I got with the program he was on his way back. In the mean time, a car has pulled up behind me and they are taking their own pics. Gene told me to “get on” and I asked if he was “serious”!!! The lady in the car in her neat European accent yells “Go for it, go for it.” And so I do, with feet held as high as I could get them, we went. I know they got the best picture of all.
Ride, Gene, Ride.
We pass the entrance to St. Elena Canyon and it looks awesome, but that will have to wait till tomorrow. As I said, it is a long way to Terlingua to get dinner and then a long trip home in the dark so we have to keep moving. Oh well, we are going to save 30 miles by taking the Maverick Road but will we save any time? If the 10 miles in the Davis Mountains were the best – the 8 miles down the Maverick were the WORST! I thought I got off the bike a full two inches shorter and my back felt fractured. But – the worst was the left cheek of my rear!!!! Ohhhh. Somewhere along the washboard road Gene apologized for choosing this route but “we only have 5 miles to go”. I know I shrieked “5 miles”! I really thought this has to be over soon. Word – if they tell you it is not recommended accept it and go the long way.
Dinner at the Kiva. I can’t even remember what I had (just know it wasn’t Mexican and there was a baked potato). It was open mic night and the DJ sounded pretty good. I thought he looked like Uncle Gordon and Grandpa - Gene agreed. Gene has Gordie’s picture in his report.
After being serenaded and feeling full but comfortable we went outside to make contact with the rest of the world which may not be on “Terlingua Time”. Gene got the bad news that his adoptive mom (Pat) has passed away and there will be a memorial on Thursday. Wow, we were not quite ready for that. We shed a tear together and talked awhile. He made several more calls to his adoptive family but had trouble getting service to most. Eventually, we arrived at the only decision we could make and that was to pack it up in the morning and burn up the highways trying to get home in time for the memorial. I don’t know if that is what Pat would have wanted. I am sure she would have said “Stay on your trip with your mom as time is precious” but I could not let my son miss being with the family he loved and I know he felt he could be of some help to them. Regrettably, St. Elena will have to wait - Family First. So we wiped away our tears and started out trip back to the campground each of us full of our own thoughts.
The night sky and stars keep us company. The trip includes many, many snakes seeking the heat still in the pavement. I miss most of them because the view from the back of a bike can’t pick up that activity so easily. Gene makes sure I get a good look by circling back. Sweet dreams now, I’m sure.
We come back into camp at 10 and we are trying to be as quiet as you can on a motorcycle but we had visitors at our campsite. We could not believe what we saw – a dozen or more javelina just routing the ground around our tent. They were not moved by the sound of the bike or lights. Gene got me off the bike and proceeded to charge the ugly brood while honking the horn. A neighbor asked the next morning what all the commotion was about. The picture below was taken off the internet, but it reflects pretty much what we were greeted by that night times 10! Really, it must be time for a toddy.
These are the things dreams are made of - I sure did not forget these hideous creatures. As I came out of the restroom in the wee hours of the morning I heard snorting sounds and I started shining my headlamp up and down looking for pigs (they are not really pigs) and snakes at the same time. As I got closer to the tent I realized Gene was in a deep slumber which included a little snoring. It is possible he has had more than one toddy. I lay there looking at the stars and just thinking. Final decision – the stars were brighter at Seminole or maybe it was my mood……….
WEDNESDAY IS HUMP DAY
Packed up and ready to roll but not before hitting a few more highlights in Big Bend.
The Strom is one fine bike and does its duty well.
Desolate as it may seem there are many things to see and do in Big Bend. It is unfortunate that we did not have as much time to complete our “must do” list but we made the best of it. So, from the southern part of the park we made our way to Panther Junction to refuel and then continued to Rio Grand Village. Really liked the village and wanted to see it as it is one of the two camp areas that can accommodate RVs. The other RV area is at the Chisos Basin. Large RVs cannot get into the Chisos but they can at the Rio. Gene and I shared a drink and a bag of chips which was just an addition to our normal breakfast of a shared protein bar, but we did not want to spoil our lunch plans in Marathon.
After leaving the Rio Grand Village we went to the Rio Grande Overlook. The mighty Rio is just below and we can see a couple of row boats on the other side which is Boquillas, Mexico. We find small craft items from the Mexican side of the Rio and they are for purchase via the honor system. Gene simply makes a donation and takes nothing – me I choose a painted rock as a souvenir. I am still wondering where the Boarder Patrol is when someone comes to collect the funds and leave further trade items for a new day. While I don’t want to take away anyone’s living I am not happy that there are exceptions being made. We (my opinion only) need to keep it equitable for all.
It is time to hit the road. The planned schedule says we need to leave Big Bend by 11 and head for lunch at the famed Gage Hotel in Marathon, TX. I read about this in my on-line research prior to the trip. Two things caught my attention – 1) Rumor has it; the Gage has at least 3 resident spooks. Ask for room 10 if you want to be a believer. And – 2) The Gage Hotel Chef is featured (as well as three of his recipes) in the book, Top Texas Chefs. Sounds good to me. So we exit the northern entrance to the park via Persimmon Gap. Good Bye Big Bend or as Gene put it – Smiles before the miles.
The Gage Hotel is the most prominent building in Marathon, but then Marathon isn’t that big that we would not have found it anyway. It is truly lovely, originally constructed in 1926 as a family dwelling. It has that really comfortable feeling with cats on the front porch asking for attention and a big dog on the cool flooring as you step inside that could care less about anyone who enters. Hey, that is a roll reversal in my book.
Once inside we discover they are not open for lunch!!!!!! It was one of the two things I said I wanted to do specifically and we had gone out of our way just so we could eat there. The best laid plans of mice and men……. How does it go?
After taking pictures of the courtyard, and a few pictures inside we step next door to a small deli like shop. Visiting with the folks in the deli we are told that there was a really good hail storm 2 days earlier (softball size) that busted out windows and windshields!!!! That is the same storm we encountered in the Davis Mountains. They said the hail gathered strength and intensity as it moved eastward until it could hold back no longer. I say it was a narrow miss for a couple of folks on a bike….
We are now using our disposable camera and so we don’t get many pictures on this final day but it is all just about the road to be traveled as quickly as possible after leaving Marathon.
Our final picture of the trip captures Gene in front of the Gage. It is time to move on.
There is a small side trip to Langtry (my other request) and then we make it back to the truck at the Pecos and then to Seminole State Park in time to make it to the visitor’s center and purchase books we had our eye on when we first came through. We take advantage of their showers and head for Denton. It was a long drive but the company was the best. Don’t you know our last meal on the road was more Mexican chow? Of course, you knew.
I am just glad the mission of getting home in time for Gene to be with his other family was accomplished and I don’t regret our decision one bit. “Family First” and Gene does that very well every day.
So – what about next year…..?
