connick
0
Day 8: Sunday, 5/22/11
420 mi - Map
Canyonlands National Park, UT to Woods Lake, San Juan National Forest, CO
After my early and full day yesterday, I figured let myself sleep in today. I woke late and slowly packed up camp, finally getting on the road towards Moab with the sun high in the sky. The plan for today was to ride back to Moab, grab some breakfast, fuel, and camping food, then find a campsite in Arches National Park and spend a night or two there. It looked to be another great day for hiking around the Utah redrock country.
My fuel light was already blinking from my riding around the park yesterday, and I was hoping I would have enough in the tank to get me to Moab, but it was not to be. I ran dry about four miles outside of town and had to dip into the 2-liter reserve I had stashed away in a saddlebag. Good thing I had bought extra fuel along! Arriving in Moab, I refueled and stopped in at the Pancake Haus for a bite to eat (good food, slow service).
At breakfast, I caught up on email, FB, and the weather report. Things look all clear throughout this part of Utah... and southwest Colorado. The forecast in the San Juan mountains is for bright and sunny weather today, chance of rain tomorrow, snow the day after that. The road conditions are supposedly clear and dry. I thought I was done with Colorado, but I still really want to ride 550, and this is looking like my last chance to do it. The window is open now, and it will be closed again in a day or two. I mentally weigh a relaxing day in the national park right next door against a long day of riding with no certain destination. It’s not like I’d be getting an early start either; it’s almost 11am as I’m finishing breakfast.
Ah, who am I kidding? It’s no contest at all. Let’s ride.
I head back down 191 and east on CO-90, the same way I came two days ago. The ride is just as fun the second time. Crossing the Paradox Valley again, I have to slow waaaay down for a giant herd of cattle along, and in, the road. There are hundreds of them. About halfway through, I stop for a second and grab a picture, but it doesn’t quite convey how many cows there were; the herd must have stretched for two miles along the road. There were a few places I had to come to a complete stop and wait for a path through them to open up in front of me; I found that a quick rev of the engine is a reliable tactic to get them out of the way.
Leaving CO-90 behind, Hwy 145 is another great ride. West of Norwood it is very scenic, with the Uncompaghre Plateau to the north and isolated mountain peaks to the south. East of Norwood it drops into a canyon along the San Miguel River and mile after mile of smoothly-paved medium-speed sweepers.
Lone Cone, to the south of Hwy 145.
As I climb up and over the Dallas Divide to Ridgway (Hwy 62), it starts to rain again. Dammit, Colorado.
I reach Ridgway at 1pm, only two hours after leaving Moab. It’s sprinkling sporadically, and there are dark clouds scattered about. But, I’ve made it to the north end of the Million Dollar Highway, the road is clear, and I can’t wait. As I ride south out of Ridgway the road perfectly splits the blue, sunny sky to the right and the black rainclouds to the left. I wonder which one will win out.
The sun wins, after a few miles. 550 is a terrific, thrilling ride, a bit sandy in places, but mainly dry and tons of fun. The section along the canyon is amazing... the edge of the road really is *the edge of the road*; no shoulder, no guardrail, just a vertical drop to the river far below. There are right-hand turns where my wheels are on the pavement and my body is suspended over the void. What a ride.
The road climbs up into the mountains through a series of three high passes. The weather is perfect and sunny, warm enough that I don’t even need to turn on my heated liner at the 11,000ft elevations of the passes.
Silverton, CO
Upon reaching Durango, I stop for a bite to eat, and then head back west towards Dolores. I know there is a state park there with a large campground, and even some hot showers. I’m thinking that would be a great way to end the day. However, when I pull in to a gas station in Dolores at around 530pm, I can’t stop thinking about Hwy 145, heading north back into the San Juan mountains. It’s supposed to be raining tomorrow, and I’d really like to do that road when it’s still dry. It’s a 60-mile ride to Telluride, and I’ve got 3 hours before sunset; I can do 145 and be back at the campsite in plenty enough time to make camp. My day isn’t over yet.
Lizard Head Pass
Goal accomplished!
I stop for a bit of relief at a gas station and find out about a Forest Service campground a few miles down the road that’s apparently open (I’d passed several on the way that were still closed for the winter, as I thought all the ones up here were). I debate heading back to Dolores, or stopping here for the night, and the latter wins out. I’ve done a lot of riding in the past eight hours and am quite ready to make camp.
A few miles farther north along 145, I pass a sign for “campground” and turn onto the side road. It turns to dirt after a short distance (what’s with my attraction to sunset dirt road rides into the mountains?), but it’s a pretty good, 45mph dirt road. I soon come to a fork and am unsure which one to take; my gut says Woods Lake, but Wilson Mesa is much closer in case I guess wrong. I’ll check Wilson Mesa first.
Guessed wrong. Woods Lake it is.
Up, and up...
I eventually reach the campground at Woods Lake, deserted and silent. Since I have my pick of the place, I snag a site with a great view of the lake below the peak of Mount Wilson. Talk about a room with a view. It’s worth skipping a hot shower for this.
Of course, it’s freezing cold up here at 9,400 feet, so I quickly prepare a hot bite to eat and retreat into my tent as darkness falls. I’m exhausted, but it’s been a great day of riding, and I was able to check a few of the must-do roads off of my list. Colorado, you’ve redeemed yourself. Tomorrow, back to Utah to continue my national parks tour!
420 mi - Map
Canyonlands National Park, UT to Woods Lake, San Juan National Forest, CO
After my early and full day yesterday, I figured let myself sleep in today. I woke late and slowly packed up camp, finally getting on the road towards Moab with the sun high in the sky. The plan for today was to ride back to Moab, grab some breakfast, fuel, and camping food, then find a campsite in Arches National Park and spend a night or two there. It looked to be another great day for hiking around the Utah redrock country.
My fuel light was already blinking from my riding around the park yesterday, and I was hoping I would have enough in the tank to get me to Moab, but it was not to be. I ran dry about four miles outside of town and had to dip into the 2-liter reserve I had stashed away in a saddlebag. Good thing I had bought extra fuel along! Arriving in Moab, I refueled and stopped in at the Pancake Haus for a bite to eat (good food, slow service).
At breakfast, I caught up on email, FB, and the weather report. Things look all clear throughout this part of Utah... and southwest Colorado. The forecast in the San Juan mountains is for bright and sunny weather today, chance of rain tomorrow, snow the day after that. The road conditions are supposedly clear and dry. I thought I was done with Colorado, but I still really want to ride 550, and this is looking like my last chance to do it. The window is open now, and it will be closed again in a day or two. I mentally weigh a relaxing day in the national park right next door against a long day of riding with no certain destination. It’s not like I’d be getting an early start either; it’s almost 11am as I’m finishing breakfast.
Ah, who am I kidding? It’s no contest at all. Let’s ride.
I head back down 191 and east on CO-90, the same way I came two days ago. The ride is just as fun the second time. Crossing the Paradox Valley again, I have to slow waaaay down for a giant herd of cattle along, and in, the road. There are hundreds of them. About halfway through, I stop for a second and grab a picture, but it doesn’t quite convey how many cows there were; the herd must have stretched for two miles along the road. There were a few places I had to come to a complete stop and wait for a path through them to open up in front of me; I found that a quick rev of the engine is a reliable tactic to get them out of the way.
Leaving CO-90 behind, Hwy 145 is another great ride. West of Norwood it is very scenic, with the Uncompaghre Plateau to the north and isolated mountain peaks to the south. East of Norwood it drops into a canyon along the San Miguel River and mile after mile of smoothly-paved medium-speed sweepers.
Lone Cone, to the south of Hwy 145.
As I climb up and over the Dallas Divide to Ridgway (Hwy 62), it starts to rain again. Dammit, Colorado.
I reach Ridgway at 1pm, only two hours after leaving Moab. It’s sprinkling sporadically, and there are dark clouds scattered about. But, I’ve made it to the north end of the Million Dollar Highway, the road is clear, and I can’t wait. As I ride south out of Ridgway the road perfectly splits the blue, sunny sky to the right and the black rainclouds to the left. I wonder which one will win out.
The sun wins, after a few miles. 550 is a terrific, thrilling ride, a bit sandy in places, but mainly dry and tons of fun. The section along the canyon is amazing... the edge of the road really is *the edge of the road*; no shoulder, no guardrail, just a vertical drop to the river far below. There are right-hand turns where my wheels are on the pavement and my body is suspended over the void. What a ride.
The road climbs up into the mountains through a series of three high passes. The weather is perfect and sunny, warm enough that I don’t even need to turn on my heated liner at the 11,000ft elevations of the passes.
Silverton, CO
Upon reaching Durango, I stop for a bite to eat, and then head back west towards Dolores. I know there is a state park there with a large campground, and even some hot showers. I’m thinking that would be a great way to end the day. However, when I pull in to a gas station in Dolores at around 530pm, I can’t stop thinking about Hwy 145, heading north back into the San Juan mountains. It’s supposed to be raining tomorrow, and I’d really like to do that road when it’s still dry. It’s a 60-mile ride to Telluride, and I’ve got 3 hours before sunset; I can do 145 and be back at the campsite in plenty enough time to make camp. My day isn’t over yet.
Lizard Head Pass
Goal accomplished!
I stop for a bit of relief at a gas station and find out about a Forest Service campground a few miles down the road that’s apparently open (I’d passed several on the way that were still closed for the winter, as I thought all the ones up here were). I debate heading back to Dolores, or stopping here for the night, and the latter wins out. I’ve done a lot of riding in the past eight hours and am quite ready to make camp.
A few miles farther north along 145, I pass a sign for “campground” and turn onto the side road. It turns to dirt after a short distance (what’s with my attraction to sunset dirt road rides into the mountains?), but it’s a pretty good, 45mph dirt road. I soon come to a fork and am unsure which one to take; my gut says Woods Lake, but Wilson Mesa is much closer in case I guess wrong. I’ll check Wilson Mesa first.
Guessed wrong. Woods Lake it is.
Up, and up...
I eventually reach the campground at Woods Lake, deserted and silent. Since I have my pick of the place, I snag a site with a great view of the lake below the peak of Mount Wilson. Talk about a room with a view. It’s worth skipping a hot shower for this.
Of course, it’s freezing cold up here at 9,400 feet, so I quickly prepare a hot bite to eat and retreat into my tent as darkness falls. I’m exhausted, but it’s been a great day of riding, and I was able to check a few of the must-do roads off of my list. Colorado, you’ve redeemed yourself. Tomorrow, back to Utah to continue my national parks tour!