New Mexico Bound

[TexasShadow]

Short travelogue.
With two little bikes in the pickup bed and travel trailer in tow, we headed west to central New Mexico after I got out of work Thursday, 9/22. I had scouted for a rest stop to spend the night in Snyder, TX. I think we got the last spot available sandwiched between a line of tractor trailers. It wasn't too bad; no unhooking, no leveling, no hookups. Just crawl in bed and sleep. And it's free.

It's always a relief to finally get out of Texas. Sometimes it feels like it never ends. Stopped in everyone's favorite place: Roswell. Where everything, including Roswell, is alien.

Arriving at the RV park in Bernardo, NM, was a relief. Set up the travel trailer and make some dinner, topping it off with a toddy sitting outside in comfy chairs.

Early next morning we drove to our rendezvous for our first day of the adobe workshop. I didn't get a head count, but I think thirteen of us participated. Joe Tibbets is a veteran adobe maker and designer. He is a walking encyclopedia of everything adobe and earth building. And eager to share it all with anyone who wants to know.

Our group was quite diverse: a father and son from Michigan, Marlin from Mexico City, Martin from AZ, a couple from Kerrville, another couple from Abilene, and a gentleman from Sante Fe (who happened to be the recently retired director of the US Park Service).

We started off with ample supply of coffee, juice, sodas and fruit while he went over the basics, starting with soils, making the blocks and constructing walls. After breaking for a late lunch, we finally got dirty.

Joe demonstrated a manual contraption called the Cinva Ram that makes compressed adobe blocks.

We had another sit-down session where Joe discussed design techniqjues, especially direct and indirect solar gain. I was very pleased to see an example of the trombe wall, which is a design/construction technique that utilizes direct solar gain and thermal mass to store heat. The advantage of this over large glass surfaces (aka windows) is that the earthen mass stores the heat and releases it when ambient temps cool. On the opposite side of that trombe wall section is a small buttress that increases the mass and heat storage. I thought that was brilliant.

The next day we all got our hands dirty. An adobe block maker from Grants, NM, arrived in the afternoon with an automated compressed earth block (CEB) machine. Only two of the group brought soil to make blocks with: us and Martin from Arizona. Martin's soil was a beautiful deep reddish-brown color and made good blocks with little amendment. Our soil required some sand and was lighter colored.

Later we learned to make an arch with adobe. It is easier than it looks; if done right.

We came away with loads of information, ideas and questions. Joe will be doing a workshop next spring on design and working up plans for adobe structures, which we plan on attending. He also plans on a workshop for plasters and adobe floors, which we are also interested in. In fact, we may be in that area for a couple months next spring. Time will tell.

 

[TexasShadow]

The next morning we relaxed; not having any commitments to be anywhere. We decided to take a bike ride south to visit one of the several wildlife refuges in the area. Sevilleta National Wildlife Refuge just north of Socorro is one of the largest in the country. It is especially unique in that it is the northern most section of the Chihuahuan desert. Four ecosystems (or biomes) converge here: that of the Chihuhuan desert, Great Plains grasslands, Great Basin shrub-steppe, and Bosque Riparian Wetlands/Forests. It that respect, it reminds me of its 'sister' refuge: Wichita Wildlife Refuge.

We hiked from the visitors center up to the top of a mesa and along the escarpment rim. The view east overlooks the Rio Bravo (most folks there don't call it the 'Rio Grande') Valley and the mountains to the east. To the west is a seemingly never-ending land of grasses and desert shrub, typical of the semi-arid steppe lands, with mountains hovering in the background. In many ways, it reminds me of the Marfa area, which also sits on a large mesa.

​

I was very excited (and entertained) to catch this fellow with my camera. Even got a video as I slowly crawled on my knees and one hand, while holding my videocorder in the other hand. I knew it wasn 't a collared lizard, but didn't ID it until after we returned to camp: Greater Earless Lizard.

We then adventured into Belen to hunt for ice cream. Which we did not find. No ice cream. Anywhere.

But!! We did make it back to the RV park before the office closes at 7pm where we bought two ice cream bars. So we had our ice cream after all.

 

[TexasShadow]

Several weeks before we left, I had contacted Growing Awareness Urban Farms in Albuquerque to arrange for a visit. So we started our way north to the big city to find the place. Scattered across a street is a group of buildings that comprise of the East Christian Ministries and the GAU Farm. They acquired the rundown and even condemned buildings to restore and turn into a community center for people in the area.

Morgan, the manager for the farm, took us on a tour and I videoed an interview. Behind one building is a garden for produce and herbs, a large composting area (both bin and worm (vermi-)composting), several greenhouses, a chicken coop and run, and a bee apiary.

Particularly off interest for me was the ollas; unglazed clay jugs that are used for irrigation. The jugs are buried in the garden soil with only the top of the neck exposed, filled with water, and capped with a stone. Water then diffuses out of the clay jug and into the surrounding soil, thus irrigating the plant roots. This technique has been used by many indigenous peoples in the southwest and Mexico for eons.

At the Urban Farm, they make ollas and sell them, teaching people how to use them. We bought four of their rejects (slight blemishes) that we will try out in our own desert garden.

Since we had time and we were already in Albuquerque, I suggested we visit the Acoma pueblo, which I had read about. So off we went, west on I-40, gratefully fleeing the city (which is like any other city). Shortly after we turned south, we were on Acoma reservation land. And every vehicle that passed us -from truck, car and even buses- waved to us. It was refreshing to see how friendly people are there.

We arrived at the visitor center and museum in time to take the last tour of the day to the Acoma ancient pueblo; the Sky City. The pueblo is about 600 or more years old and is built on top of a mesa, 375 feet above the floor of the desert. One road, which was built in the late 1950's, winds up to the top. Before that, a foot stair way carved into the side of the mesa was the only access to and from the pueblo. All their water and food had to be carried up.

At the top, I was instantly drawn in and captivated. I wanted to stay. I almost asked our guide, Little Sun, if they would adopt me.

The views from the mesa are incredible. Here on top, there is no water, no electricity, no food....nothing but the earthen ground and walls with the sky as your blanket. And here is history that extends almost a thousand years ago right at your feet. It surrounds you.

To the north of the mesa is the Acoma people's first home in this area: Enchanted Mesa. Their oral history relates that they came from the Chaco Canyon and Mesa Verde locations and chose that mesa, the Enchanted Mesa, as their home.

There they lived for 500+ years. But as their population grew, it became crowded. During a torrential storm, the foot stairs carved into the mesa side washed out. It was a sign for them to move. And so they left that mesa and populated the mesa where they are now. It was this very mesa and pueblo that Coronado and his men saw and marveled at.

We had a bit of an off-road adventure on the way to the main highway. I wanted to stop and visit the Enchanted Mesa, so we turned off onto a dirt road. Which turned into a narrow sandy track. Wet. Sand. Uh oh.

(the mesa in the background is the current pueblo)​

On the way back to camp, we took a different route, Route 6. Which we discovered was part of the original Route 66. This is a great road as it traverses the high semi-arid grasslands with mountains and lots of sky.

It was dark when we got back. And slept we did.

 

[RedPill]

Great pics and story. A non-profit I deal with, Bread for a Hungry World, has just purchased two of those earth block machines, and we'll be sending one (perhaps both) down to Honduras. I'm headed down there with a group Dec. 6 - 12, and the plan is to build 30 houses. Typically, these houses are 10 x 16 feet, but they're a big step up from no house at all.

 

[TexasShadow]

The next day we went south to visit another wildlife refuge; Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge. Covering thousands of acres along the Rio Bravo, it is the winter home for thousands of birds, mostly geese and sandhill cranes. The Rio Bravo is a stop on the Central Flyway for migratory birds that winter on the Rio Bravo or as a stop over on their way to Mexico and Central America.

Because human population of the Rio Bravo valley has altered the course and flow of the river water, refuge management tries to simulate the natural vegetation and water habitat for the birds. Actually, as we learned, there are several refuges along the river that coordinate availability of food and water during the year for the birds. It is so complex and intensive, that it seems almost impossible. Trying to duplicate what was natural requires more work than I ever imagined. But we have changed the face of the Rio Bravo valley in such a way that nature cannot follow its natural course. We have terraformed it to suit our own purposes without regards for other species. And I am glad and grateful that the national wildlife refuge system is in place to help maintain a place for the birds and other wildlife to stay alive.

We hiked a few trails with Buck the Dog. I practiced my stealth walking to creep up on a group of cormorants and later a painted turtle.

We hiked through the desert area (this is the Chihuahuan desert) where we practiced our tacking skills. Found lizard, bird, snake, deer, rabbit and coyote tracks. And equine. Those were shoeless, but definitely equine tracks. Perhaps burro tracks. Tracking in dry sand is not as easy as people think because sand along the edges of a track will flow back into the impressions and obscure the outline. Wet sand is the best terrain (other than snow).

We hiked up the side of a cliff that overlooks the refuge in the valley. There was the typical Chihuahuan desert vegetation. All the ocotillos were covered in a rich green velvet of leaves. From above, we could see several groups of geese and ducks in the marshes below.

After we hiked down and skirted the marsh, we made the loop of the rest of the refuge. Although some fowl make the refuge their home year round, most of the cranes, geese, an eagles begin arriving in November and stay until late Feb. So we missed the big show, but it was also empty of people, too.

On the way back north to camp, we stopped for lunch at a recommended place called the Buckhorn Tavern. It is famous for their green chili cheeseburger which won seventh place in a Food Network competition. And it was good! We topped it off with good ice cream across the street.

Before heading back to camp, we stopped at another wildlife refuge near the RV park. Small compared to Bosque del Apache, but it plays an integral part in food availability for wintering fowl on the flyway.

Buck the Dog was beat. He slept like a rock.

 

[TexasShadow]

Great pics and story. A non-profit I deal with, Bread for a Hungry World, has just purchased two of those earth block machines, and we'll be sending one (perhaps both) down to Honduras. I'm headed down there with a group Dec. 6 - 12, and the plan is to build 30 houses. Typically, these houses are 10 x 16 feet, but they're a big step up from no house at all.

Which one did you buy? We are looking for a used Cinva press, or one like it. The automatic ones are too expensive for just one project. Marlin, the workshop participant from Mexico City, bought one of the small automated presses, and the guy from Kerrville recently bought one of the automated presses from a place in San Antonio. But both of them plan on building a business around their presses and blocks.

If you have the automated press, it will crank out as many blocks as you can feed soil into it (and have the people to run it, feed and stack blocks). For our purposes, a manual press like the Cinva will work for us. Also, we learned that the thermal mass transfer is different between compressed block and regular formed (non-compressed) block. The latter has slower thermal transfer because it is less dense and has more air pockets (which gives it more insulation properties). The advantage of CEB is the blocks can be staked without drying and uses thinner mud joints.

We would like a press so that we an combine CEB for some of the walls (especially interior) and for the speed of production.

The great thing about adobe is that, if designed right, the structures can be added onto very easily. So a 10x16 structure can expand easily enough whenever opportunity presents. Our place will probably be only ~800 sq ft.

 

[RedPill]

I don't know which ones Bread bought. They were both automated ones, though. They're also likely going to get a portable sawmill to send down there. A 40-acre plot of wooded land was donated, and they're going to clear 3 - 5 acres to make a farm (including some interesting aquaculture and a worm bin) to help feed and employ the people who live in the Tegucigalpa dump. The trees they have to clear are largely tall, straight pines that will make great roof beams and flooring.

 

[TexasShadow]

The days were going by quickly. Too quick. There was one last place where I had my heart set on going: El Malpais.

Malpais is Spanish for 'badlands'. And in a sense it was, or is. Yet, I view it as wonderful lands. The area was covered with lava flow from the mountains north (Mount Taylor), but that was only the first eruption. Later, rifts in the earth's crust bled hot molten lava which flowed and covered the first flows. Scattered alongside these lava flows are cerros, or craters and cinder cones. It is a volcanic geologist's dream land.

We had intended to ride the bikes along the Chain of Craters Scenic Byway. But the logistics just didn't allow us to do that. So we drove the truck. As it was, we were gone all day until late at night. And, I'm actually glad we didn't ride the bikes. We wouldn't have been able to take our time and enjoy it like we did.

First we stopped at Bandera Crater, the largest crater in the chain. The land is privately owned and visitors are charged a fee, but it is worth the hike. Also nearby is an ice cave which one can visit. (see their website here) Clicking on the link, you can see an aerial view of the crater. Standing on the rim is another story. It is magnificent.

The ice caves are thrilling, too. Many artifacts have been found in and near the ice caves; many are on display at the headquarters (once a trading post).

The entire area is forested: Ponderosa and pinon pines, cedars, Doug Fir, junipers, oaks. The smell of the pine trees just makes me float in air. I love pines. And that's how the Chain of Craters Byway begins.

The road was well maintained. In fact, it was being graded even as we drove on it. We passed the grader and waved to the driver. Many miles later we passed the headquarters for a ranch. Which surprised me because I thought the road was on public land (BLM and Park Service). This place may be one section that was not obtained by the government. Otherwise, the road snakes through wilderness, monument, BLM designations.

Passing by the big log ranch house, and over a cattle guard (one of many), the road changes. It narrows, has more rocks and less even. In some places ruts are deep, but not impassible. Only once did we have to stop and inspect where the best lines for the truck would be (one line for a bike would be easier).

The trees become less numerous and smaller and the horizon gets bigger. Soon we are going up on sandy arid grassland steppe country, a favorite for pronghorns. It's beautiful up there with the mountain ranges along the distance no matter which way one turns. I got out and opened up my arms asking it to embrace me. And thinking, 'I could live here. And never go down.'

We began to descend south off the big mesa. As we got closer to the highway, we saw a small truck with a pop-up camper pulled off and set up. Thumbs up and a wave. Far enough off the road, they can't be seen. And I bet the nights are black as black and the stars as big and bright as saucers.

(view of the south end of the Byway)​

Dusk was soon approaching. We drove on Hwy 117, which is a well maintained asphalt road, but with little traffic. I knew that towards the north was a place called 'the Narrows'. But did not know what it was. We found out as we approached.

The road hugs the base of towering sandstone cliffs that mark the west edge of Cebolleta Mesa. This was once Acoma land. The lava flowed up to the base of the mesa, which made navigation treacherous. However, the Zuni and Acoma people literally chipped a trail between the two territories for trading. That trail remains today. And over time, the Acoma people have bought back some of their native land (now, how does that figure?).

A trail ascends from a parking lot on the highway and up to the rim of the mesa for a few miles. I bet the views from there are fantastic, and it is on my list to hike when I return there.

The monumental attraction is one of the largest arches in the state, even the country: La Ventana. This massive arch is breathtaking, and we were in the right spot at the right time as it was lit by the setting sun.

It was too late to stop at other points of interest along the eastern edge of El Malpais, but we knew that we would be back. Next time, I want to be on the DR and camped closer.

 

[TexasShadow]

Friday comes, and time to head back. We took our time loading up and pulling out. On the way to Bernardo on Hwy 380, we passed a place called Valley of Fire. So we stopped there and set up camp for the rest of the day and night.

I'm going to cheat and paste in an excerpt from their website (recovering from surgery and tired):
"Valley of Fires recreation area is located immediately adjacent to the Malpais Lava Flow. Approximately 5,000 years ago, Little Black Peak erupted and flowed 44 miles into the Tularosa Basin, filling the basin with molten rock. The resulting lava flow is four to six miles wide, 160 feet thick and covers 125 square miles. The lava flow is considered to be one of the youngest lava flows in the continental United States."

The area is amazing. The BLM campground is the most developed that I've ever stayed at. Nearly all the spots overlook the lava beds because the campground is situated on a kipuka, an island of high ground (usually sandstone) that the lava did not cover.

A paved trail literally snakes through the lava with informational displays that relate points of interest. You will learn what vegetation and animals survive there, the names of volcanic and lava formations (usually of Hawaiian origin), and other really cool things to learn. And, yes, the signs actually invite wanderers to venture off the path to explore for themselves. Which we did. In fact, we started our exploration way down from the path, wandering around the fascinating formations and ended up crawling over the hand rail onto the paved path, to the horror of a group of people that were passing by.

Lava, or anything that is black, is a challenge to photograph. The light has to be right. And if you don't have the time to wait for the right light, you're out of luck. But sometimes I got lucky.

I read an online review of the area before we arrived there. The reviewer complained that the lava beds were 'overgrown'. That comment only revealed the person's narrow-minded expectations and perceptions. It also revealed their ignorance. Of course there are plants growing there. Lava is high in minerals. And when they erode by water and wind, those minerals become soil rich in nutrients that sustain vegetative life. As plants grow and populate the area, mammals and reptiles also populate the same area. It becomes a living habitat, forming an ecosystem in which many species thrive. In fact, more species of plants and animals live within the lava beds than the surrounding desert. If people want to see naked lava, they can go to the moon.

We had a wonderful dinner sitting outside watching the moon rise and the sun set. The stars were incredible.

 

[tshelfer]

Overgrown? Did they want the area sprayed with Round-Up?

Great pix. Thanks.

 

[TexasShadow]

The last day. Or, the last day in New Mexico, which for me is the end of the trip. Crossing the state line into Texas is like walking back into a black hole. At least, where I am now.

I got up before sunrise and took Buck for a walk up to the knob. Alone time to commune with some of my buddies. And take a few shots before we left.

Before we left New Mexico, I wanted to explore one more place. Lincoln, New Mexico. Surrounded by the Lincoln National Forest, this place is full of history, violent history, but now full of charm. Funny how time can erase wounds and replace it with blossoms.

Most of all, it allowed us to examine the old traditional ways of building with adobe and stone. Eureka! Shutters on windows and doors. Shutters that were used like they are supposed to be used, rather than cosmetic ornaments. Anyone that has been in Mexico, or even the Mediterranean knows that shutters cover windows and doors to keep out the elements, and even keep the warmth (or cool) in. Of course, the shutters on most of these buildings were used to keep arrows from flying through windows and doors.

It is worth the time to stroll through the streets. The older man that minds the small store is a resident, as were his parents and grandparents, and..... He is happy to relate the history of the place, and sometimes to dispel the myths. I liked him. He's like the uncle I never had.

We spent one more night upon the road, at a small RV place in Post, next to the railroad tracks. And I mean RIGHT NEXT TO THE TRACKS. Sleep was pretty much a wash.

So, back we are. And back we will go again.
We were invited back to the small RV park in Bernardo to help them establish a small self-sustainable community. Two families live there full time to manage the park, which is also a horse, donkey and dog rescue place. One of the couples are refugees from the floods in Illinois; they lost their house and everything. They bought a motor home and moved to the RV park in response to a ad for a park manager. The other couple helps manage the place, too.

They are establishing a garden, planting fruit trees and vines, collecting gray water for landscape use, building a chicken coop for eggs and meat. Joe wants an apprentice to learn the adobe trade, so that might be a viable option, too. I can see spending several months during the summer and do some work there. Lots of options!.........

So, we need to learn Spanish.

 

[TexasShadow]

Great pics and story. A non-profit I deal with, Bread for a Hungry World, has just purchased two of those earth block machines, and we'll be sending one (perhaps both) down to Honduras. I'm headed down there with a group Dec. 6 - 12, and the plan is to build 30 houses.

Come to think of it, Joe does a lot of adobe work in Honduras. I wonder if Joe will be there when you are. If so, tell him we say Howdy!

 

[TexasShadow]

Overgrown? Did they want the area sprayed with Round-Up?

That's what Ed said.
Frankly, I was astounded at how much lives in the lava beds. It was great. I would love a job inventorying all the life there.

 

[TexasShadow]

Finally uploaded a video on our adobe workshop.

 

[TexasShadow]

A short fun vid of a magnificent place: Valley of Fire in NM; the El Malpais lava beds.

 

[Kat013]

Wonderful trip! I love the southwest. I've been out there a couple of times and the itch to go back just keeps on growing.

 

[BexarWolf]

How'd this thread get past me? Now I have to tag it to view from home.

 

[Tx White Knight]

Excellent trip report, it was great.

I will try to squeeze some of this in on my CA trip

Thanks for sharing with us

 

[TexasShadow]

Glad you enjoyed it!