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spokedoc
0
So I had two problems. The Husqvarna 701 Enduro is just too tall for me even though I am six foot even. The other problem is I have the bike setup to travel long distance and haul camping gear but I also ride it mostly unloaded when not tripping. I did install a heavier spring for the added weight when loaded. For most bikes that is a simple enough sag adjustment to, albeit imperfectly, compensate for. Nope! Husqvarna's service manual instructs you to half disassemble the bike and remove the shock from the top to make a sag adjustment. Trust me, even with their special spanner, it is not possible to make considerable adjustments without buggering up the spanner nut unless you do, in fact, remove it. Not acceptable! 
It is not a perfect world. There are other ways to alter suspension. I chose to try the Koubalink KTM8-DAKAR: 0.875" lowering link and raise the fork tubes like amount. To solve the sag problem I opted for the XTRIG TE50001-301 shock preload adjuster from Slaven's Racing. I picked the 0.875" to provide a bit of height relief without altering the suspension performance too much and, hopefully, prevent bottoming out on the bottom of the rear fender/gas tank. Yes the plastic gas tank is under the seat and serves as rear sub frame and fender.
I do many bike projects for myself and for friends. This is a gratuitous picture of the start of this project with my friends Big Dog chopper in the foreground. I did a carb overhaul on it. I did not document that job with any photos so this is it. The Big Dog snarls now!
Okay, back on topic. Here you can see the heart of the problem. Just no space. As the collar moves the access changes from bad to worse.
To begin the disassembly, access to the link pivot pin (arrow) requires removing both foot peg brackets which include brake pedal, master cylinder and, on the other side, the kickstand.
The swing arm pivot shaft passes through both foot peg brackets. After removing the first bolt the shaft just spins. My old KTM two stroke had a hex key socket inside the shaft to prevent turning. Not this bike. Did this little shade tree trick to just hold it slightly...
while I shock the other side with a proper tool. SUCCESS!
All of that for this
There is some geometry involved with the link system. As you can see there is not 0.875" difference in the center distance of the pivot points. The Koubalink is well built.
This shows just a bit of the scale of disassembly required to get the shock out. Bike is literally separated in the middle, everything disconnected, and the tank/sub frame/fender is tilted back. Note piles of removed parts between the other bikes on the floor. Did I mention airbox and exhaust? Hoooo-booooy
Here is the heart of the issue. The shock reservoir (arrow) will not pass down through the frame and other assorted morass. It even takes considerable finessing to extract it out the top. Battery cables had to be removed.
Back off the the adjusting collar and a split plate is exposed at the bottom allowing the spring to be easily removed.
You must think about the correct rotational location both for access back on the bike and the pin position to clear the reservoir when it retracts. The pin is removable. Slaven's has a YouTube video on this. I had to do this and extra time after I realized I could not get the pin retainer bolt in with the spring in place. It is not a very complete video but worth a watch.
This turned out to be a really nice, well made, functional part.
Moved the fork tubes up. Only managed to get about 0.75". The 0.875" would have caused issue with the tapered portion of the fork tubes in the clamp.
Here is the finished project. I did the sag adjustment as outlined in the owners manual. The preload adjuster worked great. I love it when a plan comes together.
It is standing almost vertical in this picture. The surface must be just right for it to stand. I will next have to alter the side stand to compensate for the lowering. Another project.
I took it out last weekend for a longish, all street, ride. I could not detect any adverse handling on the road, including at speeds exceeding the suggested maximum recommended. I had been riding it with the sag set for loaded all the time. It was nice to have the suspension more compliant and therefore more comfortable. Because of that alone it actually handled better as well, particularly on washboard sections, in corners. One thing, good or bad, depending on your desire, it was not as inclined to loft the front wheel as before. Not sure if that is a function of the lowering or softer sag adjustment. So the height is better but still just a tad tall. I have not tried it off road yet. I am hopeful that it will be an improvement there as well, especially for my footing when I stop or start.
It is not a perfect world. There are other ways to alter suspension. I chose to try the Koubalink KTM8-DAKAR: 0.875" lowering link and raise the fork tubes like amount. To solve the sag problem I opted for the XTRIG TE50001-301 shock preload adjuster from Slaven's Racing. I picked the 0.875" to provide a bit of height relief without altering the suspension performance too much and, hopefully, prevent bottoming out on the bottom of the rear fender/gas tank. Yes the plastic gas tank is under the seat and serves as rear sub frame and fender.
I do many bike projects for myself and for friends. This is a gratuitous picture of the start of this project with my friends Big Dog chopper in the foreground. I did a carb overhaul on it. I did not document that job with any photos so this is it. The Big Dog snarls now!
Okay, back on topic. Here you can see the heart of the problem. Just no space. As the collar moves the access changes from bad to worse.
To begin the disassembly, access to the link pivot pin (arrow) requires removing both foot peg brackets which include brake pedal, master cylinder and, on the other side, the kickstand.
The swing arm pivot shaft passes through both foot peg brackets. After removing the first bolt the shaft just spins. My old KTM two stroke had a hex key socket inside the shaft to prevent turning. Not this bike. Did this little shade tree trick to just hold it slightly...
while I shock the other side with a proper tool. SUCCESS!
All of that for this
There is some geometry involved with the link system. As you can see there is not 0.875" difference in the center distance of the pivot points. The Koubalink is well built.
This shows just a bit of the scale of disassembly required to get the shock out. Bike is literally separated in the middle, everything disconnected, and the tank/sub frame/fender is tilted back. Note piles of removed parts between the other bikes on the floor. Did I mention airbox and exhaust? Hoooo-booooy
Here is the heart of the issue. The shock reservoir (arrow) will not pass down through the frame and other assorted morass. It even takes considerable finessing to extract it out the top. Battery cables had to be removed.
Back off the the adjusting collar and a split plate is exposed at the bottom allowing the spring to be easily removed.
You must think about the correct rotational location both for access back on the bike and the pin position to clear the reservoir when it retracts. The pin is removable. Slaven's has a YouTube video on this. I had to do this and extra time after I realized I could not get the pin retainer bolt in with the spring in place. It is not a very complete video but worth a watch.
This turned out to be a really nice, well made, functional part.
Moved the fork tubes up. Only managed to get about 0.75". The 0.875" would have caused issue with the tapered portion of the fork tubes in the clamp.
Here is the finished project. I did the sag adjustment as outlined in the owners manual. The preload adjuster worked great. I love it when a plan comes together.
It is standing almost vertical in this picture. The surface must be just right for it to stand. I will next have to alter the side stand to compensate for the lowering. Another project.I took it out last weekend for a longish, all street, ride. I could not detect any adverse handling on the road, including at speeds exceeding the suggested maximum recommended. I had been riding it with the sag set for loaded all the time. It was nice to have the suspension more compliant and therefore more comfortable. Because of that alone it actually handled better as well, particularly on washboard sections, in corners. One thing, good or bad, depending on your desire, it was not as inclined to loft the front wheel as before. Not sure if that is a function of the lowering or softer sag adjustment. So the height is better but still just a tad tall. I have not tried it off road yet. I am hopeful that it will be an improvement there as well, especially for my footing when I stop or start.
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