The Pacific Coast Repair and Blog Thread

[Pacific Coaster]

The Great Honda Pacific Coast Repair thread

It's been a long time coming, but I'm finally doing it - I'm finally making a repair thread / blog of sorts to keep up with and document my repair endeavors, and most importantly, to get input from you guys, the veterans.

So far, I've already changed the oil on my own (big victory for me there, I'll tell you that), and I've charged the very battery that I killed. I have yet to do more - until now. There is a long list of what all needs to be done, and slowly but surely, I will get to each one.

Before we get started, here is a link to my Google Drive media dump - where I store all photos I've taken during work / repairs on the bike - just in case you're interested.

Now, let's get started!

Completed Tasks:

• 1st oil change
• Battery recharged, also installed battery to SAE to 12V charger accessory outlet addon - 12/24/15
• Air Filter Replaced - 02/17/16
• Spark plugs replaced - 02/23/16
• Added tank bag and changed coolant - 03/12/16.
• Newer, clearer windshield ($$$$)
• Front and rear brake pad replacement
• Clean out and polish up the dashboard / instrument cluster display
• Replace all bulbs

Scheduled Tasks:

• Fluids Overhaul (Brake / Clutch lever master cylinders, Rear brake drum, etc.)
• New handlebar grips (current ones are tearing and cause arthritis)
• Order OEM parts for pieces that are either missing or improvised by the previous owner
• Possibly redo the leathers that are faded / burned
• Polish up and get rid of scuff marks on the plastic
• Remove as much gunk buildup and rust as possible from not commonly accessed areas
• Fasten / tighten up as many things as I can, re-tighten the under carriage components if I can even do so
• And, more to come as I think of it

EDIT: Moved items that I have completed and haven't kept up with on here.

 

[Pacific Coaster]

Repair Mission #1: Air Filter Replacement

Recently, my acceleration hasn't been doing as good as when I first got the bike, and makes a sort of whining noise at around 4,500 RPM's on third gear, trying to get past 40-45 MPH. Not only that, but there is a heavy gas smell that emanates from either / both of the exhaust ports on the sides while idling, and especially much more so once the bike is shut off.

To add onto these problems, my front wheel has also been making this sort of noise recently, mainly at slow speeds and while turning, where I can really only describe in one of 2 ways:

1.) It sounds like there is something in between the brake pad and the wheel itself, or

2.) It sounds like the wheel is bent in a way, like on a traditional bicycle, that it will rub up on the brake pad in one spot, and at slow speeds, is easily heard.

I figured I would get under the plastic once more, and see what all I could find that might be loose or messed up that could also be an easy fix. I have to admit, it takes me far less longer to get all the plastic off than it did the first time - about an hour at first, and now about 10 minutes at the most.

Once I had all the plastic off, and after giving it a look over with my untrained eye and unable to find anything that would raise a red flag, I decided that the bike will remain without it's clothes for the time being, and that it will be worked on and parts replaced since I've already stripped it. First thing first, I may as well work on the air filter since it is quite literally at the top of the bike.

With the air filter out, I decided to call Autozone to see if they had one in stock - he couldn't find it on the computer, but suggested I bring it in so they could physically look at it and determine if there was another one I could get - so sure, why not? I get to Autozone, we look around, and can't find anything. Just then, he decides to check the computer again, but now this time says he can't find and has never heard of a car in the Honda line called a Pacific Coast.

...

After sorting that out, we end up finding that they do in fact carry the air filter I need, but it's on special order since not many people order it - so I place the order. Now, it's a 2 day wait until they call me that it's arrived.

Meanwhile, I went ahead and bought new spark plugs - unbeknownst to me that I need 4 instead of just 2. I'll have to go back tomorrow and get the extra 2.

When I get home, I'm putting away all the plastic for the night, when I decide to look into where the air filter compartment is. I think I made a mistake doing so...

If I'm not mistaken, I think there is oil inside the air filter compartment. I'm not sure if that's normal, but if not, then yes, you read it right - I think there's oil inside there, or at least, it had the look and consistency of freshly replaced oil. It looked to be about a quarter to a half inch thick amount of liquid, but only in one corner of the compartment. Here's a quick video I took:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B7iiK644wTipZUJxLVo2c0YwNDQ/view?usp=sharing

It's honestly a bit disconcerting seeing that, because now I'm not sure if I have an oil leak, but even then, how would oil get into the air filter compartment when there are no connections to the reservoir, and the reservoir itself is literally on the bottom of the bike?

I have yet to figure it out, but you can bet I'll be doing a bunch of google searches to see what I can come up with.

Do you have any idea why there might be so much of an oil-type substance in the air filter compartment, if at all?

 

[SL350]

Glad you are doing this because I want to hear more about Cack - your PC800.

Probably should have put this into the general thread. Lots of guys who ignore the OT forum will miss this.

I think I would work on suspension first from what I hear from your Goldwing posts. Are there lots of options for suspension upgrades (new shocks)?

 

[Pacific Coaster]

Glad you are doing this because I want to hear more about Cack - your PC800.

Probably should have put this into the general thread. Lots of guys who ignore the OT forum will miss this.

I think I would work on suspension first from what I hear from your Goldwing posts. Are there lots of options for suspension upgrades (new shocks)?

Crud, I should have done that. Maybe a nice mod will stroll along and see this and be kind enough to move it to the General area for me?

And as far as suspension upgrades go, I'm really not too sure. I've been thinking they might need to be replaced because the ride has been getting bumpier and shakier each passing day. At least, that's the only logical thing I could really think of as a possible cause for the symptoms above.

I'll see what I can do in terms of the suspension tomorrow since the bike will be left stripped for at least the next week or so. If I get to it, then I'll post pictures here, and if they seem to be a universal type of shock that can easily be replaced by something else, then for sure, It's going to get changed out.

 

[tshelfer]

When did you change your screen name? I was just about to tell Alpine Ridge to come check out this thread, and realized it was you.

The wheel noise you're hearing may be just normal rub of the disc against the pad. Bear in mind you now have a thicker pad up front. And unlike a car, you don't grind the rotor down on a bike, so there's going to be a bit of unevenness there.

Oil in the filter? I got that once, when I first had my VStrom, and got a stern lecture about being sure not to overfill when I change the oil. As far as I know, that doesn't hurt anything - just gunks up the air filter a bit.

Shocks - Is that dual shocks, or a monoshock? Duals are cheaper, but a mono is usually easier to change. Since your bike is late 90s, you are riding on close to 20 y/o shocks, so I'm not surprised they're fading fast. When you start looking around for replacements, don't overlook JC Whitney or EBay.

 

[Pacific Coaster]

When did you change your screen name? I was just about to tell Alpine Ridge to come check out this thread, and realized it was you.

The wheel noise you're hearing may be just normal rub of the disc against the pad. Bear in mind you now have a thicker pad up front. And unlike a car, you don't grind the rotor down on a bike, so there's going to be a bit of unevenness there.

Oil in the filter? I got that once, when I first had my VStrom, and got a stern lecture about being sure not to overfill when I change the oil. As far as I know, that doesn't hurt anything - just gunks up the air filter a bit.

Shocks - Is that dual shocks, or a monoshock? Duals are cheaper, but a mono is usually easier to change. Since your bike is late 90s, you are riding on close to 20 y/o shocks, so I'm not surprised they're fading fast. When you start looking around for replacements, don't overlook JC Whitney or EBay.

Haha I changed it about... 3 weeks or so ago?

And it makes sense that the disc might be rubbing up against the pad, that's really what it sounds like - I just can't bear to hear it, and it makes me hurt on the inside thinking I'm killing my baby

As far as the shocks are concerned, I'm honestly not too sure - I'll have to see once I get to them, but if I've read around correctly, then they're Dual shocks. I definitely will be sparing no expense when it comes to repairs and materials - gotta have top quality for top performance.

 

[garfey]

When did you change your screen name? I was just about to tell Alpine Ridge to come check out this thread, and realized it was you. ...

Yeah, me, too; then I thought, "Waiddaminnit! Who else has a Pacific Coast? Can there be two on this forum? Naah . . . Alpine Ridge done gone and changed his handle!" Given the location and topography, this one fits better!

The wheel noise you're hearing may be just normal rub of the disc against the pad. *snip*

A dry speedo cable is another common cause of noise from the front wheel. Usually speed dependent, it can be perfectly quiet up until a certain speed, then come on suddenly, unlike dragging brake pads which may make themselves known throughout the speed range, or, as yours seems to be doing, only when an "abnormal" load is placed on the steering/braking components. A "pulsing" noise is likely a dented/warped rotor which is usually caused by fallovers, not by using the brakes as intended. I have NEVER warped a rotor from braking, but I have had one from a (as in one) crashed bike.

A bit of oil in the airbox is normal. The crankcase vents (should be one off each cylinder head) usually go there so oil vapors can (for the most part) be burned.

Goodonya for digging in there. Now, grab your Shop Manual and find out what's really going on!

 

[kurt]

Excessive oil in the air box can be caused by overfilling the oil. It vents into the airbox, coats the air filter and decreases the amount of airflow. This might cause it to run rich causing the gas odor you describe.

 

[Pacific Coaster]

Repair Mission #1: Update #1

Since I got off work around 1800 today, I went back to O'Reilly to get the other 2 spark plugs, as well as a spark plug adapter for my wrench, since the spark plugs are wayyyy in there and need an extension to even get to.

Well, the adapter didn't work, so I'm going to wait until tomorrow to get that returned - in the meantime, I figured why not take off the wheel fairings for when the new brake pads come in, and the current windshield while I'm at it so that when the next paycheck hits tomorrow, I can just go ahead and buy a new, taller (and certainly more clean) windshield?

2 problems with doing that.

First, I start removing the pieces, one by one, and eventually come to two screws that are basically holding the shield to the frame. These are hex screws too - and every other hex screw up until this point haven't given me any problems. Try as I might, I just can't get these screws to move, until...

I strip them both.

Now, I've got the bike stripped down, as well as the screws that are holding the windshield to the bike.

Any ideas on how to remove 2 stripped hex screws and save the day?

The second is that after removing the front wheel fairings, I'm obviously in the right area now, but... I can't tell what I need to open next in order to get to the actual pads themselves and, once again, the hex screws I try to open are stuck as they are, and I've already learned my lesson about trying to force them loose.

I would have also posted pictures this time, but my phone was on a low battery which prevented taking pictures.

Will Humzah ever get his bike fixed in time to take it on a nice ride? Has he lost any parts yet that are irreplaceable? Does his lack of mechanical experience keep him from making the right calls? Why am I asking you all these questions?

Stay tuned for another episode of Hammering Hondas with Humzah Hashmi!

 

[kurt]

I have used a torx bit forced into a stripped hex head to free stripped drive heads.

 

[SL350]

Excessive oil in the air box can be caused by overfilling the oil. It vents into the airbox, coats the air filter and decreases the amount of airflow. This might cause it to run rich causing the gas odor you describe.

Along this same path oil can be because of blowby from the rings. Wonder what the compression readings are?

If it is blowby the oil will foul quicker than normal and smell of unburned gas.

 

[garfey]

Repair Mission #1: Update #1

... the spark plugs are wayyyy in there and need an extension to even get to.

Well, the adapter didn't work, *snip*

I can just go ahead and buy a new, taller (and certainly more clean) windshield?

2 problems with doing that.

Now, I've got the bike stripped down, as well as the screws that are holding the windshield to the bike.

Any ideas on how to remove 2 stripped hex screws and save the day?

... I can't tell what I need to open next in order to get to the actual pads themselves and, once again, the hex screws I try to open are stuck as they are, and I've already learned my lesson about trying to force them loose.

*snip*

... Does his lack of mechanical experience keep him from making the right calls?

A Shop Manual would (probably) have saved you from yourself, as would the OEM tool kit (Imma bet less than $25 on eBay - wait 'til you try to adjust the shocks without the "special tool") and if you can afford a Clearview W/S (I had one made so know exactly what I'm talking about; it's great but not cheap! You can probably find an OEM shield for abt 1/4 what the C'view will cost, maybe less, maybe still in the original wrapping. PC800's were NOT popular (though I rode the ONE I sold abt a hundred miles to deliver it to the purchaser and liked it fine) so there's probably a LOT of NOS stuff out there.) you can afford both those things and quit making silly mistakes, so do yourself a favor and back up a step.

Edit: The quality of the Clearview W/S (R100RT) is waaay up there, and the vent is super cool and useful. It's also neat getting an email from C'view detailing every step of production and inspection. I recommend C'view unreservedly.

 

[Pacific Coaster]

I have used a torx bit forced into a stripped hex head to free stripped drive heads.

Yaaay more things to buy

Along this same path oil can be because of blowby from the rings. Wonder what the compression readings are?

If it is blowby the oil will foul quicker than normal and smell of unburned gas.

Hmm. A quick Google search shows compression testing to not be that demanding, nor take that long. Guess I'll do that when I get home later after picking up some more tools.

A Shop Manual would (probably) have saved you from yourself, as would the OEM tool kit (Imma bet less than $25 on eBay - wait 'til you try to adjust the shocks without the "special tool") and if you can afford a Clearview W/S (I had one made so know exactly what I'm talking about; it's great but not cheap! You can probably find an OEM shield for abt 1/4 what the C'view will cost, maybe less, maybe still in the original wrapping. PC800's were NOT popular (though I rode the ONE I sold abt a hundred miles to deliver it to the purchaser and liked it fine) so there's probably a LOT of NOS stuff out there.) you can afford both those things and quit making silly mistakes, so do yourself a favor and back up a step.

Edit: The quality of the Clearview W/S (R100RT) is waaay up there, and the vent is super cool and useful. It's also neat getting an email from C'view detailing every step of production and inspection. I recommend C'view unreservedly.

Augh, I know, I know... I need to get that shop manual in hard copy form ASAP and stick it somewhere safe. I downloaded the PDF version to my laptop that I stick up on a makeshift tripod outside and sort of works (see the first picture at the top of this thread), but if the battery dies, then I no longer have a shop manual.

And in regards to the windshield, yeah, Clearview is a tad expensive, but I'm alright with the price because I'd rather be able to see through the windshield than what I have now - heavily crystallized inside, heavily faded, and severely discolored. I would assume it was a lack of proper maintenance that caused it - I'm sure it doesn't just happen overnight.

Also, seeing as how you have bought a clearview before, do you recommend the PRV Vents, or the 5-point adjustable? I've noticed that having the PRV as a choice doesn't change the price, although the 5-point adjustable knocks it up about $60. Do you happen to know anything about the two, and why there is such a price difference?

 

[kurt]

The torx bits should be very cheap at the auto parts store. Failing that, drilling off the heads might be the next step.

Someone here will loan you a compression tester or you might be able to rent one from the same auto parts store.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Torx-Driver-Security-T-10-T-40/dp/B0002SPLQ8"]7 Pc. Torx Driver Security Bit Set T-10 to T-40 - Screwdriver Bit Sets - Amazon.com[/ame]

 

[kurt]

Augh, I know, I know... I need to get that shop manual in hard copy form ASAP and stick it somewhere safe. I downloaded the PDF version to my laptop that I stick up on a makeshift tripod outside and sort of works (see the first picture at the top of this thread), but if the battery dies, then I no longer have a shop manual.

Just print the pages you need. Sometimes I enlarge the pictures before printing them.

 

[kurt]

A brief search indicates those windscreen screws are used in conjunction with wellnuts. Once you drill the head off the screws, the wellnuts will release the tension on the screws and it should be simple to remove the remainder of the screw.

 

[tshelfer]

The torx bits should be very cheap at the auto parts store. Failing that, drilling off the heads might be the next step.

Someone here will loan you a compression tester or you might be able to rent one from the same auto parts store.

7 Pc. Torx Driver Security Bit Set T-10 to T-40 - Screwdriver Bit Sets - Amazon.com

Autozone will loan out quite a few handy tools. They'll have you make a deposit on your credit card. When you return the tool, the charge is reversed. I've done that several times.

 

[SL350]

Last time I needed the codes read on my Ram, Autozone sold me the tool to read it. When I was done they refunded the money. That is how they do the tool loans now, as a sale/return. They used to walk out to the car and scan it for you. Maybe some stores still do.

My guess is that this will be true for the other tool loans. It seems a bit like stealing if you did it at Walmart but that is their (Autozone) policy for tool loans. The only negative is the $160 deposit but that is only fair.

Don't worry about the compression just yet. I have a theory about a bike being under a knife for more than two weeks at a time. It is discouraging as you get no riding time. Just do one of these at a time, especially since you can now get the plastic off in ten minutes. After a couple of weeks you will start losing little bits even if you store them well. They just walk away!

This is a pretty big bike for a first bike. If you learn good skills on it, it will last a lifetime. And buy quality tools along the way.

Edit: Exception is for safety related repairs. Don't ride until they are fixed.

 

[garfey]

... Hmm. A quick Google search shows compression testing to not be that demanding, nor take that long. Guess I'll do that when I get home later after picking up some more tools.

You can borrow tools like that at AutoZone and, I think, other Auto Parts Shoppes. I bought a Tester kit years ago and have used it exactly ONCE.

Augh, I know, I know... I need to get that shop manual in hard copy form ASAP and stick it somewhere safe. I downloaded the PDF version to my laptop that I stick up on a makeshift tripod outside and sort of works (see the first picture at the top of this thread), but if the battery dies, then I no longer have a shop manual.

An extension cord, plugged in, might help with that.

And in regards to the windshield, yeah, Clearview is a tad expensive, but I'm alright with the price because I'd rather be able to see through the windshield than what I have now - heavily crystallized inside, heavily faded, and severely discolored. I would assume it was a lack of proper maintenance that caused it - I'm sure it doesn't just happen overnight.

Nope, not o'night. Extended UV exposure essentially "cooks" the plastic.

Also, seeing as how you have bought a clearview before, do you recommend the PRV Vents, or the 5-point adjustable? I've noticed that having the PRV as a choice doesn't change the price, although the 5-point adjustable knocks it up about $60. Do you happen to know anything about the two, and why there is such a price difference?

Dunno about the PRV (looked at the blurb, not an option on the Beemer W/S) but the 5-point (which really only has 3, guess they count differently ) has click-stops that let you adjust how much air comes thru the vent and, to some degree, direct the airflow. (Full up is shut, 1st click down angles the air up abt 45deg, 2nd click aims it straight back - good enough for me.) Noice!

 

[garfey]

A brief search indicates those windscreen screws are used in conjunction with wellnuts. Once you drill the head off the screws, the wellnuts will release the tension on the screws and it should be simple to remove the remainder of the screw.

Found wellnuts at A1 Hardware when a riding bud needed a couple while in Phoenix, headed for Cali - MUCH cheaper than the "official" Hardly-Doodleson version, look exactly the same, probably same source.

 

[kurt]

I bought spares as they seem to disappear occasionally. These and the reusable plastic rivets always reside in my small parts organizer.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Metric-wellnuts-Motorcycle-Household/dp/B00VASWJQO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1455896236&sr=8-2&keywords=5mm+well+nut"]Amazon.com: M5 Rubber Well Nuts 5mm Metric wellnuts Motorcycle Car Household - Pack of 10: Automotive[/ame]

 

[jetdr21]

O'reillys Auto Parts also loans tools.

 

[garfey]

I bought spares as they seem to disappear occasionally. These and the reusable plastic rivets always reside in my small parts organizer.

Amazon.com: M5 Rubber Well Nuts 5mm Metric wellnuts Motorcycle Car Household - Pack of 10: Automotive

Yup, spares here, too. Harley windshield fixer-on-ers and they get brittle with age and leak into where the instrument & H/L wiring is - NOT GOOD!

 

[cheez]

Good luck with the wrenching Huzmah! Looks like you've got a good start.

 

[snapp600]

Hey Huzmah! Now I see your thread. Awesome stuff man! I see answers have already been had on certain issues and I am on the side of the oil in the air box being normal as well. most likely coming in from the crank case vent. But its always best to cover all other possibilities.
The Idle taking a while to settle could possibly be your idle setting, or a vac leak. Try spraying some carb cleaner or wd40 around the carb boots and lines to see if the rpms change. If they do, there is a leak somewhere. Some times it can be as simple as tightening a clamp or replacing a vac cap.
Do you know what kind of carbs you have? and is it a 4 inline set up?
I may still have my homemade sync tool around the garage when it comes time for that process as well.
Good luck with the service! Let me know if you need a hand or tool or something, I may have one.