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Waltzing through the Sierra Gorda - another Mexico ride!

Joined
Aug 23, 2008
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Location
Corpus Christi, TX
I'd been eyeing maps of the mountains between Cd. Victoria and Tamazunchale since my first couple of trips to Mexico, an area containing the northern part of the Sierra Gorda mountains. Dale and I decided on a ride towards the end of September, hoping the weather would be a bit cooler and the rains wouldn't be too much of a distraction.

To dampen the wive's worries a bit, we invested in a Spot Tracker so they could keep track of where we were and know things were OK. We named the Spot "Rover" in what I consider to be a stroke of genius. The cost came to a bit more than I figured, mostly due to the tracking feature costing an extra $50/year, but that was our big reason for buying the tracker, so we paid it.

We left Corpus about 2:00 on a Thursday afternoon for the familiar trip south to the Pharr/Rio Bravo International Bridge. Temps were in the mid-90's so we took a rest break at Rachal for a drink and to wet down our gear.

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After gassing up at the bridge and exchanging our dollars for pesos, we headed for the bridge, just to get held up by the local police searching the cars ahead of us in line. When I went to Nuevo Laredo the end of July, we were stopped and questioned by an immigration officer before crossing the bridge and Hombre got his bags searched by the lady. I guess they've decided to pay attention to the outward bound traffic as well as what's coming across the bridge from Mexico.

Getting papers was straightforward. Both Dale and I got 6-month permits, hoping to use them at least once again before the 180-days is up. We were on the road south by about 6:00 in the evening. The toll bypass is now officially open from the bridge to highway 97 heading south from Reynosa. Toll is $7P, well worth avoiding the Reynosa traffic.

We reached our goal, the Hotel Rancho Viejo, about 7:30 just before sunset. There weren't many private vehicles on the road at that hour. The hotel was mostly empty, but was still hosting some of the Federales that have been there for the past year or so. It was nice to have them watching the front door.

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We had dinner at the restaurant next door, then found the Oxxo closed already so no ice cream for dessert.

In the morning, we were up about 5:30 and on the road soon after. The Oxxo and restaurant were still closed, so we stopped an hour or so down the highway for some breakfast, huevos con machacado. That area sells a lot of the dried beef to passing motorists.

We stopped to buy gas about 20 miles before Cd. Victoria. In Victoria, we took the loop heading south on Hwy 85 along the eastern side of the mountains, the same route I followed on my January trip to Mixquiahuala and beyond. This time our destination for the night was Xilitla.

South of Victoria, the road climbs over several ridges offering some nice views and a few corners to keep things interesting. We stopped at a pullout to take a few pictures.

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Then it was on the road again. We stopped for lunch about 1:00 in Cd. Valles at a place that sold pizzas and tortas. I find tortas, a type of Mexican sub sandwich, usually pretty good and at a good price. Afterwards, two of their delivery boys were looking over our bikes and offering to race us on their motorcycles. They probably would've beaten us. I don't try to keep up with those guys going through traffic.

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I like the way the scenery changes in the mountains and the valleys. Some farmland, some cane fields, some dry, some very tropical areas. Along the highway, overhead signs announce each municipio (county) as you arrive, extolling the virtues of the area. Mexico is really pushing ecotourism for the area, but don't seem to be getting a lot of takers.

After another stop for gas and visiting awhile with a random lady at the gas station, we arrived in Xilitla about 3:00. Welcome to Las Pozas de Edward James.
 
Las Pozas de Edward James

Xilitla, one of Mexico's Pueblos Magicos, is known for Las Pozas de Edward James, a surrealistic sculpture garden built in the jungle just east of Xilitla. The wealthy englishman, Edward James, lived and built there for more than 20 years until dying in 1984.

I'd visited the sculpture gardens twice before, once in 2008 on my second trip to Mexico and again in 2010 with my wife and Dale's wife. This time, I took Dale just to keep the score even.

We paid the $P50 admission and spent a couple hours wandering around the place. Several families were there, mostly to swim in the pools along the creek. A crew was at work restoring some of the structures. It's good to see the place getting fixed up instead of slowly decaying. As usual, we took lots of pictures there. It was refreshing to see the lack of guardrails that would've been everywhere had Las Pozas been built in the US.

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Dale dropped his coke, then climbed down to retreive it to keep from littering the place.

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The fellow manning the gift shop had some interesting things going on, though I was too cheap to buy anything.

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He took one of the beaded, wire balls and told an elaborate story as he twisted it into shape after shape.

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Then it was time to head back out to the highway for the short run up the hill to Xilitla.
 
Xilitla then on to Jalpan the next morning

Riding into Xilitla I saw a familiar motorcycle parked alongside the street. The BMW F650 belonged to Layo, whom Lefty and I met on our trip in 2008. The bike still sported the bike blessing sticker from when we did a bike blessing for him in 2008.

2008
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2012
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It was good to see Layo again and to visit for a bit. He was just as friendly as the first time. Dale and I got a room at the Hotel Guzman, where I'd stayed with Lefty in 2008. It was still the place to stay. Then we wandered around Xilitla a while, enjoying the Saturday afternoon and all the people in town shopping. The paleteria was where I remembered on the corner of the square and we stopped by for a paleta.

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This wasn't our hotel. The colors probably would've kept me awake.
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Independence Day was celebrated the week before and the decorations were still up on the church. I'll leave it up to Tricepilot to identify the figures.
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We were supposed to meet Layo and his brother for dinner, but when they didn't show, wound up ordering some shrimp plates then headed for bed after a last wander around the park.

Up about 6:00 the next morning, we were on the road by 7:00, heading over the mountains on hwy 100 to Jalpan de Serra, another of Mexico's Pueblos Magicos. The morning temps were in the low 70's, but kept dropping as we climbed, bottoming out just below 50 deg. I finally had to stop to put on another layer under my mesh jacket. We took a few pictures while we were stopped. Apparently there was some logging going on on the side of the hill across the road.

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Taking pictures along the highway in Mexico isn't always at the most scenic points. It's more determined by where you have room to pull of the highway, then can get back up on it. Shoulders are narrow and aren't paved.

We arrived in Jalpan at 9:00 according to the Spot tracker and stopped at a tourist hotel/restaurant for some breakfast. We were the only people eating. I was taken by surprise when my coffee showed up heavily sugared. I drink it black. The waiter said the whole pot had sugar in it and offered to make me some instant coffee instead. My standard line when a waitress asks what I want in my coffee: "Just my mustache." When I wasn't too excited about the Nescafe, he went and brewed a fresh pot with no sugar. We left him a nice tip. Dale doesn't drink coffee. He ordered orange juice instead, then could see the guy in kitchen squeezing the oranges.

Jalpan is known as the heart of the Sierra Gorda, mostly because it's the only city in the area. It's known for having 2 of the 5 mission churches founded by Franciscans in the 1800's and is now a World Heritage Site. Dale and I skipped seeing the churches and the museum and headed north on Hwy 69 instead, toward Rio Verde.
 
Junipero Serra would be miffed you missed his churches but he'd love this RR.

:clap:

Love this area. More please.
 
Back to Victoria

We headed north out of Jalpan enjoying the changing scenery and stopped at a bridge to take a few pictures. I carried a cooler in my tail trunk to keep our water bottles iced down and the water from the melting ice got splashed around going over the topes, leaked out through the opening in the top of the cooler and was making a smelly mess out of the trunk. I had dumped out the water, but hadn't taken the time to dry everything out. I got frustrated every time I opened the lid.

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The views from the bridge did put me in a better mood, however.

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I was surprised to see cypress trees, though I guess I shouldn't have been.

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The cactus along the road changed types a few times during the day's ride.

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When we hit Arroyo Seco, we turned off on 8, a smaller back road that, according to the map, was paved. At the turnoff, some of the streets in town were being redone, so we had to hunt around to find our way out of town. At one house, the gentleman assured us we were on the right track, then asked if we could wait a minute while he showed his grandsons the motorcycles. We were happy to wait while they sat the kids on the bikes and took pictures with their cellphones.

At Linares, we crossed the highway, then kept on north on 8 to Ciudad de Maiz. The scenery was getting dryer and flatter.

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At Ciudad de Maiz, we turned left on the main highway heading towards Matehuala, about halfway there intersecting with the highway from Victoria, where we turned right, heading towards Victoria. By then it was afternoon, so we stopped for lunch at the first diner we came across.

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The girls there were curious and asked what we were up to. When we said we were just out sightseeing, they said they thought we were part of a TV show. No such luck. When we told them we were going to spend the night in Victoria, they were concerned. They said it was a rough place to be. I told them not to worry, we weren't going to bother anyone.

Back on the bikes, back in the saddle, an hour or so later I pulled over again to walk off the sleepies. And take a few more pictures.

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As we got closer to the last range of mountains before Victoria, we turned off the highway onto the old road into town that goes over the top instead of through a valley. We had ridden that road while at a rally in Victoria in 2009. You can read about that at: http://www.triumphrat.net/ride-trip-reports/105243-grumpy-at-ciudad-victoria-mexico-bike-rally.html

Here's a shot of the two routes. 126 is the new highway. The old one is just north of it. According to Google Earth, the old road summits at just under 5000 ft. elevation. The new road tops out at 3500 ft.

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Most of the way to the top, we stopped for a few pictures. Looking down at the new road going by below us. You can see the big road cuts.

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And many reminders of why the new road was built.

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A look back from where we'd come:

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Descending the eastern side of the mountain, we stopped for a picture of the church sitting in a horseshoe bend in the road, el Sanctuario del Camionero, the trucker's sanctuary.

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A few more miles and we were in Victoria for the night.
 
The final leg

We wound up doing a few circles of downtown Victoria trying to find our hotel, Hotel Santorin. People said it was on 7th St., a block north of 8th. However, all the numbered streets in town had apparently been renamed since none of them were numbered anymore. Our circling and several stops to question pedestrians finally got us close enough to see the sign on top of the hotel. The room cost as much as the two previous nights put together, but it was nice to stay downtown. Getting a hot breakfast the next morning as part of the deal was just lagniappe.

Dale had been complaining about an earache that afternoon and we'd stopped at a pharmacy for some medicine, but they wouldn't sell him any without a prescription. Things are changing in Mexico. After we were settled at the hotel, Dale took off saying he was going to look for a doctor to see if he could get a prescription to clear up the infection. He came back about an hour later, said he'd found a doctor, got his prescriptions and medicine and got a shot in the butt to boot. I was proud of him. That's a big expedition for someone who speaks a limited amount of Spanish.

After breakfast the next morning, we headed out of town about 8:00, then stopped for gas about 20 miles down the highway. I was impressed by all the dead bugs on the ground.

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Another stop an hour or so later for a picture of a restaurant with a really cool chimney.

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At the checkpoint just past the intersection with the road to Soto la Marina, we were questioned by a soldier then searched briefly before they waved us on. At the "Y", where the Hotel Rancho Viejo is located, there was a Federales checkpoint, though they only seemed interested in the southbound traffic.

I finally did get a shot of a Mexican "doble," a semi hauling two long trailers behind it. They're common on the highways of Mexico, backing up long strings of cars behind them when the going gets slow. On a bike you can usually pass the whole mess, then you have some clear sailing until you catch up to the next slow string of traffic, held up behind another truck.

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Then, it was north up 97 again, through another military checkpoint where they just waved us on by and the aduana checkpoint where we were waved on through again, hit the bypass, pay the toll and it was back at the bridge at about noon.

Once we cleared customs, we turned in our pesos, filled up on gas, stopped at the usual Subway for a sandwich and headed on home. Riding through several showers on the way just helped cool us down. I finally pulled in the driveway at about 4:30 after covering 1250 miles in just over 3 days.

I really enjoyed the trip, the bike and the chance to be in Mexico again for a bit. Thanks for riding along.
 
I love these Mex trip reports. I would like to do one myself but I think I have a better chance of seeing Mars. Thanks
 
I love these Mex trip reports. I would like to do one myself but I think I have a better chance of seeing Mars. Thanks

You'd definitely need a dirt bike up there! :lol2:

You're right, it's a lot easier to make a Mexico trip when you're only 2 1/2 hours from the border.
 
A few photos from an dirt bike trip in '06

Jalpan
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El Cielo Biosphere near Gomez Farias
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Rio Nacimiento
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If a bus can get there off road, then maybe I can make it on a dirt bike.
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