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1250 loses power once warm, no codes, idles ok

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mbryanr

mbryanr

Joined
Jul 13, 2019
Messages
18
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Location
Harrisville, NY
So, I bought a bike for a fair price, 11,500 miles. This bike had run little the last two years. Started right up and idles fine.
I thought finally back in the bike riding business!
The problem occurs only after it has warmed up, initially say.. First 3-5 miles it runs fine. The stumbling begins after 3000 rpm initially when rolling on the throttle, progressively getting worse where all it will do is idle without stalling. No codes pop up or on start up.
I have run injector cleaner/sea foam through it, cleaned the air filter, replaced the fuel pump (Kemso), and in process of changing plugs (that's kinda ***** finding clearance of the frame rail for #1 and #4)

I see I missed a mesh screen from the other thread, but it may not be fuel as it's only after warm.

Thoughts?
 
mbryanr said:
So, I bought a bike for a fair price, 11,500 miles. This bike had run little the last two years. Started right up and idles fine.
I thought finally back in the bike riding business!
The problem occurs only after it has warmed up, initially say.. First 3-5 miles it runs fine. The stumbling begins after 3000 rpm initially when rolling on the throttle, progressively getting worse where all it will do is idle without stalling. No codes pop up or on start up.
I have run injector cleaner/sea foam through it, cleaned the air filter, replaced the fuel pump (Kemso), and in process of changing plugs (that's kinda * finding clearance of the frame rail for #1 and #4)

I see I missed a mesh screen from the other thread, but it may not be fuel as it's only after warm.

Thoughts?
Click to expand...
Definitely fuel & check the fuel canister
 
I dumped the tank as well, and filled new.
Once the evap canister is removed, anything I can do to make it work? (did read about the bypass kit etc, but for now just troubleshoot)
And that (canister or purge valve) makes sense more than a fuel filter from when it occurs (after warming up). Once cool, it runs normally again.

NOTE: also ran with the tank open with no change in the problem.
Also, I just wanna ride lol. Those 3-5 miles each time show me what the bandit can do. Great bike.
 
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Evap can seems to be alright, flow through both sides. Also ran with it off for a bit.
Back to work on the internal filter and plugs
 
What does the inside of tank look like. Working on an 09 that sat for 3 yrs, w/ 1/4 tank of ethanol fuel in it = rust.
 
Definitely some rust particularly on the fuel pump bracket etc. I know it was run with 91 octane (no ethanol), but still...
 
Definitely. found that works best after trying others. Always fearful of cross threading, but that works well. I got #1 and 3 done now. Onto the others
 
bforeman said:
Time to derust
Click to expand...
238619
 
You're right, once you figure out how they have to come out, relatively easy.
238626
Note the bends in the frame for cylinders 1&4 is a big clue.
 
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Had a similar problem with my BMW. Ended up being a crank sensor ( part of the traction control system). Don't know if your bike is equipped with this.
 
Done. Thank you Tonis, this helped tremendously for my own information and comfort with messing with this bike. I was really hoping it would make it happen.
Note the rich plugs..getting fuel/no fire?
 
On the 09 in the shop it also didn't have the wire mesh screen in the plastic housing new fuel pump sock cleaned all 4 injectors fresh set of plugs ran like a bat out of **** till 5000 then fell flat on it's face. I'm a welder so I work on it when I have a chance.
 
No screen either and I shoved a wire down it as well.
This one.. Runs all the way to redline if wanted, then warm, it starts falling on its face. Usually around 3k, but can be worse under load.
Edit: you'd like the machine shop and welding stuff here. My dad was a welder (power plants, nuclear, etc) and machinist. How I ended up being an engineer.
 
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Sounds like electronics breaking down or possibly tight valves.
 
Poo Yiii Guy! To me, that sounds heat related electrical. Not sure of all the sensors on the engine, but seems each one will have to be checked. I have use a heat gun and ohm meter to check values cold vs hot and did succeed a few times. Might try that approach.
 
Had a bike with severely restricted exhaust once......ran fine to a point, then fell on it's face. Could your cat be plugged?
 
dmerc said:
Had a bike with severely restricted exhaust once......ran fine to a point, then fell on it's face. Could your cat be plugged?
Click to expand...
Possible. I dunno at this point though. Dropped it off at a repair shop. Want to be riding sooner than later. Riding season up here isn't long at all.
 
Well...not the info I wanted to hear, but it's running right again. The dealer/service shop replicated the problem twice. Tested the throttle position sensor, and haven't been able to repeat the problem in the last 3 days. (Every time I rode it, this occurred...) So- will take it back, and ride.
 
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