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Africa Twin thread

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I can only imagine how bad the flexseal was to remove... I'm tempted to give 3m method a go in the rear at least, love being able to plug flats. Right now i've got dyna beads in the tubes for balancing, and heard that those can mess up DIY tubeless setups so i'd prolly look for another way to balance.
 
2017 Africa Twin ..... I used 3M 5200 fast cure (no tape) on both my rims about 3 yrs ago. The rear has been sealed since, no problems. I've only had one problem on the front when a tire was replaced and a couple spoke seals were disturbed, (I assume by the tire tool) which I simply resealed. My wheels are balanced with traditional weights, no issues. Take your time and clean the spoke holes sanitary clean before applying the 5200. Apply the sealant to about 1/2 the rim, allow it to get tacky, then apply the other half. Let it all cure in a warm environment for at least 24 hrs. Good to go.
 
Yes, on the interior of the rim just around the OD of the "hub" where the "hubs" enter the rim and where the spoke enters each "hub", if that makes any sense. Also, you'll need to install tubeless tire valves, (E-bay or Amazon) easy enough. Insure the OD of the new valve stem will pass through the stem hole dia in your rim. (I think the tubeless valve stems come in two sizes?) They come with an o-ring seal but I went ahead and applied sealant around it for insurance.
Whatever tires you wish to use, check to be sure they are rated as tubeless. I only run Heidenau K-60's on my AT, they work mighty fine in this modification/application. I sealed the rims, mounted the tires to 40 psi, checked and rechecked them for a couple days for leaks. No issues. I mounted them and haven't looked back since. At that time, I did install a cheapo Chinese $40 TPMS which has worked amazingly well, going strong 3-4 years now.
 
A bit more advice and then I'll be still. I'd say the greatest contributing factor to the success of this modification is the cleanliness of the surfaces to which the sealant is applied. (and, of course, allowing the sealant to cure properly)
I washed the interior of my rims with hot soapy water and blew it completely dry. Then I scrubbed each "hub" entry with a toothbrush and spray brake cleaner and blew dry. I then repeated the brake cleaner cleaning once again. (two scrub cleanings MAY be overkill, but, I'm obsessive)
And, a parting thought, different strokes for different folks. Some say this modification is not safe. Do your research and draw your own conclusions. Personally, I'm happy with the modification and have no qualms about the safety or integrity of the tires.
 
N+1 said:
I can only imagine how bad the flexseal was to remove... I'm tempted to give 3m method a go in the rear at least, love being able to plug flats. Right now i've got dyna beads in the tubes for balancing, and heard that those can mess up DIY tubeless setups so i'd prolly look for another way to balance.
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That is correct, if you use the tape system and dyna beads it WILL fail. In 20k miles I had two flats yet no punctures using the beads and tape. I then decided go back to tubes. About 9 months later I picked up a 3” sheet metal screw in Walden Colorado. Took about 45 minutes to unload and replace the tube. I thought about how much trouble I went through going tubeless for such a minor repair as a flat.
 
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Lot to be said for that. I struggle with which stuff to bring when i tour. Last year i bought two new sets of plugs since my old ones, unused were purchased in 2012. Choose and test a pump. Organize plug tools and plugs. ****. Used em twice in the last 25 years! The last blowout 2 months back was not repairable unfortunately. I pulled out my pump only to see i could stick 3 fingers into the tire :-)
 
Hey, any of you North Texas Africa Twin Dudes have a pair of STOCK front turn signals laying around collecting dust? Ya know, STOCK. Not those aftermarket LED thingies. I have tried to repair mine for about the 27th time. Running out of Gorilla tape.
 
Flipit said:
Hey, any of you North Texas Africa Twin Dudes have a pair of STOCK front turn signals laying around collecting dust? Ya know, STOCK. Not those aftermarket LED thingies. I have tried to repair mine for about the 27th time. Running out of Gorilla tape.
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I just fix mine with that gorilla epoxy stuff. They are $92 for each side if you replace.

Did Idaho knock the tape loose 😂
 
Flipit said:
Hey, any of you North Texas Africa Twin Dudes have a pair of STOCK front turn signals laying around collecting dust? Ya know, STOCK. Not those aftermarket LED thingies. I have tried to repair mine for about the 27th time. Running out of Gorilla tape.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing you mean for a '16 it '17 Twin, as the '18 and later ones came with LED signals stock... as did all the European ones.
 
William Wolfen said:
I'm guessing you mean for a '16 it '17 Twin, as the '18 and later ones came with LED signals stock... as did all the European ones.
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Correct. Mine is a '17. I'll bet there are 57 of those things gathering dust in garages across the Metroplex.

Yeah, @misterk, Lolo Motorway was just a little too hard for the duct tape to survive.
 
Well I ordered the OEM center stand and my wife negotiated a deal on a Madstad today as well. She is trying to turn the AT into a sufficient tourer so I'll sell the RT. I see what she's doing. It could happen with a Corbin and some boxes. Ebay rack I added last week is perfect.
 
My friend got interested in ATs after I got mine two weeks ago. Tomorrow he's picking up a new 2022. What engine guard set up would you recommend for a standard 2022 AT?
 
Boulder Ed said:
My friend got interested in ATs after I got mine two weeks ago. Tomorrow he's picking up a new 2022. What engine guard set up would you recommend for a standard 2022 AT?
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I have always used touratech crash bars, upper and lower on my twins.

Lots of folks like the outback crash bars. Top of the line heavy duty are the Altriders.
 
I've got the Altrider engine, lower and upper guards on my 2017. Pricey; but they seem to be good quality and weren't difficult to install. Also have their skid plate. Mine is a non-DCT and not sure if there are any issues with DCT service with the Altrider bars.
 
I went with the SW Motech protection plan on mine. Their bars are a bit more minimalist and therefore lighter than a lot of the alternatives. Their skid plate it stout too. I went all in and got their luggage racks too.

I don't make a habit of dropping my bike, but the stuff has worked the few times it's been over. Only a few scuffs on the left side panel from getting cross rutted at low speed once.
 
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misterk said:
LOL, that is just the price for admission. At least the DT mirror has a lifetime warranty. What brand of luggage rack? I assume it was the welds?
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MotorexMotoTexMotoMexSomethingErOther for the racks. They are replacing them. I am getting a new replacement mirror, and Madstad is sending me a pair of upgraded brackets (heavier gauge aluminum). Cha-CHING! Never hurts to ask. Other than that, the AT ran like a top.
 
Boulder Ed said:
What engine guard set up would you recommend for a standard 2022 AT?
Click to expand...

Just to confuse the matter a little more: I installed the Givi engine and body guards (2017 standard model AT - DCT). I've been down about 20 times. The guards have not even MOVED. I do have one small bash in the header pipe, which is technically the (stock) skid plate's fault. It is slightly annoying to get to the dip stick (left side), and I had to go to standard head bolts on the oil filter cover (right side) because of the guards. No big deal on either.
 
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Are new Africa Twins hard to find?
 
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