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BushPig Build

I have the small and large version of that Rigg tailbag and both have served me well.
 

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It was a big weekend for the Bushpig. The bike was dropped off Friday afternoon, all buttoned up and running great. The shop did a "Stage 1" carburetor kit including a needle, jets, mixture screw and tune, but I didn't get the details. I was just happy to have the bike back, didn't want to complicate things considering how all of this went down. The pig is like a completely different motorcycle. It starts easy, runs smoothly and linear and has bucket fulls of low-end torque.

I am starting with the weight loss program and will move onto the mods and installs I performed on Friday and Saturday. These weights represent the differential between the replacement parts, or parts I removed, and parts I added.

Starting Weight: 366lbs (estimated)
Current Weight with mods and additions: 361lbs

I stared with the handlebars and had already done my homework enough to know there was no getting off the stock throttle side grip, so I picked up a new throttle tube from Pro Cycle. The bars are 1-18" to 7/8" Pro Taper CR High bend with adapters and pillowtop grips. If you have changed bars, although it seems like a simple task, it always turns out to be "intersting". These took me a good 2 hours or more having to clip off the control nipples and file down some things a bit to make them fit. In the end, it wasn't difficult, jut tedious and time consuming.

The bars a wider, thicker and much more comfortable than the stock ones...a big upgrade in my opinion. I really like them.

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I then moved on to the dropped foot pegs and brackets using Pro Cycle's kit with YZ pegs. It fit perfectly and an improvement, but I would like the pegs to be wider. I adjusted the gear shifter down a spline, but ended moving it back up to the stock position for boots. This was a nice upgrade but I would go with wider pegs if I were to do it again.

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Next was the Acerbis skid plate, it was very easy to install and it fit perfectly. It is lightweight and feels very stout. I am happy with it for sure.

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On to the "Clean up yer backside" kit from Pro Cycle. This ended up being a little more involved than I would have thought because none of the wiring was plug and play. It was simple enough but required some cutting and tying up the factory wires. The first picture is the nasty stock setup and the second is the kit with the license plate bracket, LED and flush tail light. Overall, the kit fit well and I shaved off about 3 1/2 lbs. I feel like it is overpriced but did accomplish the goal as advertised.

You can also see I added a quieting baffle to the DG pipe. The pig still shouts a bit but not enough for my neighbors to plot my doom in the mornings when I ride to work.

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The last upgrades for the weekend were the saddle and tail bags. These are Nelson Rigg adventure series and I added two bottle holders for fuel or drinks. The right side bag did lay on the exhaust so I picked up a heat spacer and installed that yesterday (not shown).

My wife jumped on her Ryker and we did about a 25 mile test ride. I carried tools to adjust the bars, idle, and such and got Bushpig to a good starting place. So far, all of these mods have turned out to be great in my opinion.

Next will be the Acerbis 5.3gal tank, but it will be a few weeks before I can get to that and maybe a windshield. I don't really like windshields but planning on 200 mile rides, so it might be necessary. We shall see...

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Just in case you haven’t already, it is a very good idea to remove the upper chain roller. They can snap off and take a chunk of the frame with them. There’s no harm in removing it. You can plug the hole with a short bolt or a dab of silicone.
 

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Just in case you haven’t already, it is a very good idea to remove the upper chain roller. They can snap off and take a chunk of the frame with them. There’s no harm in removing it. You can plug the hole with a short bolt or a dab of silicone.
Yes, thank you! I removed it and plugged it.

I read about the neutral switch screw issue but will attack that later on considering the bike is new, along with bearing grease.
 
Supposedly from (I think going from memory) 2017 onward Suzuki installed the NSU screws with loctite from the factory. I’ve never torn into my 2020, and I haven’t lost sleep over it.

It is definitely worth going through the swingarm bolt/bearings and suspension linkage and applying waterproof grease.
 
Next was the Acerbis skid plate, it was very easy to install and it fit perfectly. It is lightweight and feels very stout. I am happy with it for sure.

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On to the "Clean up yer backside" kit from Pro Cycle. This ended up being a little more involved than I would have thought because none of the wiring was plug and play. It was simple enough but required some cutting and tying up the factory wires. The first picture is the nasty stock setup and the second is the kit with the license plate bracket, LED and flush tail light. Overall, the kit fit well and I shaved off about 3 1/2 lbs. I feel like it is overpriced but did accomplish the goal as advertised.

You can also see I added a quieting baffle to the DG pipe. The pig still shouts a bit but not enough for my neighbors to plot my doom in the mornings when I ride to work.

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The tail tidy and plastic skid plate aren't things I would recommend, but may be give depending on planned usage. The stock rear fender does an excellent job of catching mud and spray, despite being what many consider unsightly. The plastic skid plate has an anecdote from advrider that would steer me clear of it. It cost a guy the frame of his DR! Still if you're mostly on road it'll likely be fine.

Yes, thank you! I removed it and plugged it.

I read about the neutral switch screw issue but will attack that later on considering the bike is new, along with bearing grease.

Good on you for the upper chain roller. The neutral sending unit screws can be ignored if it's a 2018 or later DR. Someone during the 2017 MY they finally started putting loctite on them.
 
The stock rear fender does an excellent job of catching mud and spray, despite being what many consider unsightly.

+1 to keeping the stock fender. Buddy of mine has a DR with the tail tidy and I have a stock fender. We had the same bikes, same bags, and after the same Hill Country 500 ride his tail bag was covered in mud and dirt and mine was squeaky clean.

FWIW I have the Acerbis skid plate and have beat on it pretty hard. I think it’s worth it specifically for the reduction in noise compared to an aluminum skid plate!
 
Good to know about the fender. I have done that to all my DS bikes over the years, but you have some good points. We will see how it goes over time, but until then, it looks a heck of a lot better and saves a little weight. Tit for tat. I suspect it will evolve over time to fit my style, which is one thing so great about this bike. I can put the 15 tooth back on or a 16 tooth with a windscreen for long rides...not sure.

I am mapping out rides from my area that get increasingly longer from 30 miles to 60 miles to 100 miles to more, using each ride to learn from. I have the goal of a three day, 500 mile ride to the hill country, Canyon Lake, Luckenbach, Fredericksburg, area in the coming year. Also am planning for an overnighter to Kelly's Pond to ride some SHNF trails with my son in law.

Who knows...I might end up trading up for the new Transalp or an Africa Twin in a couple of years, or keep the pig until I can't ride anymore. I am already loving the pig more than most of the bikes I have owned in the last 30 years, maybe all of them.
 
If you come out to the Hill Country and would like a DR riding buddy, hit me up. I live in Blanco and ride the areas you mentioned nearly every weekend.

From yesterday, near Bergheim.
 

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If you come out to the Hill Country and would like a DR riding buddy, hit me up. I live in Blanco and ride the areas you mentioned nearly every weekend.

From yesterday, near Bergheim.

That sounds great. I am from the Bulverde, Spring Branch, Canyon Lake area myself and my folks basically live at Hwy306 and 281 just south of Blanco. I am booked up for the next three weeks solid but trying to fit something in November and that sounds just right. I'll see if my son in law wants to go too on his XR.
 
Mr. Clortho get that pig farkeled and lets go get it dirty. Pigs love to roll around in the dirt ya know. :lol2:

I hear you. The 3 week delay dealing with the above crap messed up my schedule. I am heading to Colorado for a "hunting trip" this week. By hunting, I mean old guys 4 wheeling in the mountains with guns and whiskey for a week, :lol2:
 
I don’t like to bash dealers I have had problems with, but it sounds like your dealer did a good job trying to fix a mistake made by a less than stellar employee. Maybe a shout out is in order. But maybe not, your discretion. Good luck with the bike, hopefully we can put together some local-ish dual sport rides.
 
I put about 100 miles on the Bushpig this weekend with a little bit of gravel roads. The Shinko's performed great in all conditions, and I was happy that the DR would cruse along at 75mph easily. The suspension does its job for these conditions but as others have mentioned, maybe not once pushed. So far, I am pretty happy with it for now. After 30 sustained miles, I started to think about wind screens. I don't really like them on a DS bike but maybe a consideration for the future.

I'll try to get the tank installed this week and mostly have this pig done for now and going to start planning overnight rides soon.

I am also considering putting the 15 tooth sprocket back on because it is pretty wound out at 75 mpg, but depends on the next trip.
 
Push it a little, go ride some whoops, or leaf it with luggage and you'll see what we mean about the suspension.

The Acerbis tank I had was a really easy install. The main thing to remember is to plug the vacuum port on the carb if you're not keeping the vacuum petcock.

I always found it to feel happier on the highway with the stock gearing, though it'll do it with a 14 tooth front. The 14 tooth was nice in single track, but not entirely necessary. It's a pretty small change on the bottom end.
 
I planned a ride with my son in law through the hill country in central Texas in less than two weeks, so I needed to finish up Bushpig and at least take it for a good hour long, high speed ride. As I was contemplating said tasks on my ride in to work, I ran out of fuel with 96 miles on the clock. A quick switch to reserve and some boogie dancing and she fired back up. I knew the pig was running rich because it smelled like your grandpa after he spent the afternoon working on the '53 Ford pickup, but didn't realize it was that rich.

Saturday's tasks were to install the Acerbis tank, fuel filter, and lean the pig out a tad using a highly scientific method. The tank install was more simple than I had guessed along with the relocation brackets from Procycle for the turn signals. In retrospect, I could have simply removed the stock brackets, cut off the positioning forks on them and rotated them, saving me a few dollars. I blew the tank out with compressed air, installed the petcock, poured a little fuel in it to slosh around and drained it. I figured that was good enough for government work.

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While in the process, I removed the infamous factory fuel filter of anguish and replaced it with an aftermarket one with about 500 times more surface area. I mean, wow, look at this guy. I of course installed it with the custom zip tie clamps.

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Leaning out the pig: My brain reminded me when adding higher flow exhaust and air cleaners, the resultant increase in air flow results in a leaner air to fuel mixture. A keen eye may have noticed by my request, the dealer did not molest the stock air box when it was jetted, even leaving in the snorkel tube. I removed the tube which increased the air flow opening by a nice bit, but did not drill any additional holes. In theory, this should slightly lean the bike out. Secondly, you may remember the quiet baffle I installed in the DG pipe and the back side of it is solid. I drilled a hole though that to allow some percent of exhaust gasses to escape easier. The bike sounds just a little louder, but not alot, and the combination of these two changes woke the pig up a bit. He is a little more crisp on the throttle, and I can smell the difference in the exhaust.

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Like I said, "highly scientific", but it appears to have done exactly what I wanted...or at least my brain is telling me this to make me feel better making us both happy, which I am good with either way. Happy is happy, even if you are a little nuts.

Of course, because I am so smart, when I ran out of fuel and stopped at a station and filled the pig up just a day before swapping the tank. It was an act of patience draining the stock tank into the new one, but it did give a perspective. I also got to lean how the vacuum petcock worked and the fuel return on the stock tank. In the pic below, you can see the fuel level and how much less the stock tank held. After everything was buttoned up, I took a 35 mile ride with some highway time and Bushpig ate up the miles with ease. I learned at around 82 mph, I began to get some head shake, but I was happy to keep it under 80. A stabilizer should help but this isn't a highway bike for me anyway and some shimmy is only natural for a plated dirt bike on the road.

Bushpig is ready to roll.

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If you're running that rich, I'd really like to know what the mechanic did to your carb. That'd where you should go for mixture tuning, not the intake or exhaust. That said the stock intake is FAR more restrictive than the stock exhaust. Your muffler change with no airbox change means the airbox is still the most restrictive point.

The high speed stability is a suspension or tire problem. I've had mine up to 100 indicted with no head shake, but that was with properly setup suspension. I wouldn't spend money on a steering damper without addressing suspension first.
 
If you're running that rich, I'd really like to know what the mechanic did to your carb. That'd where you should go for mixture tuning, not the intake or exhaust. That said the stock intake is FAR more restrictive than the stock exhaust. Your muffler change with no airbox change means the airbox is still the most restrictive point.

The high speed stability is a suspension or tire problem. I've had mine up to 100 indicted with no head shake, but that was with properly setup suspension. I wouldn't spend money on a steering damper without addressing suspension first.
Yeah thats way too rich.

Mine’s a 94, so different bike, but they aren’t that different when it comes to the jetting.

I have the stock tank, exhaust, and carb. Airbox was drilled (by PO) and never jetted which is how I got a badly running DR for cheap. After jetting and replacing the stock slide it runs great and I hit 150 miles on the dot with the stock tank and a (yamaha banshee) manual petcock.
 
After a week of commuting I am really happy with how Bushpig is running now. I don't even have to choke it and it fires to life instantly with a blip of the starter. The exhaust smells less rich and it seems to be using less fuel. Sunday I cleaned him up, adjusted the chain that had stretched a little, lubed him, and packed some tools for the ride this weekend with two of my son in laws. I'll post some pics next week.
 
After a week of commuting I am really happy with how Bushpig is running now. I don't even have to choke it and it fires to life instantly with a blip of the starter. The exhaust smells less rich and it seems to be using less fuel. Sunday I cleaned him up, adjusted the chain that had stretched a little, lubed him, and packed some tools for the ride this weekend with two of my son in laws. I'll post some pics next week.
Sounds like it's still a bit rich if it needs no choke to start when it's stone cold.
 
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