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Chain Lubing

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MCRyder

MCRyder

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Over the years of having chain drive I’ve used different ways of cleaning/application. Off the shelf (like PJ1), chain wax, spray on foaming lube, kerosene or diesel and gear oil. Today I had to clean the factory grease of the my new Tracer and apply new lube

I’ve gone back to my favorite method. I use WD40 to clean, and then what might be a unique way to apply the lube. This took me finding the tool I’d misplaced for some years ago. I'd found it a couple weeks ago while reorganizing my garage.

I had and worked with horses for several years. In that time I’d acquired several large syringes and needles to give shots.

I also used them to apply oil on the O-rings of my motorcycle chain. I get precise drops on each ring causing less “fling” and using less oil. I carry it with me and get about 20 chain lubes from a 20ml syringe.

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I used chainsaw bar oil for this application. It takes 3-5 minutes to lube the chain and packs in the under seat storage area.
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I find it easy and quick while on the road. It might not be so handy for someone with trypanophobia (fear of needles).
 
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There's a good argument for just keeping o-ring chains clean. I've gone back and forth between lubing then and not. My main issues have been rusting when not lubed and collecting dust to make grinding paste when lubed. Might have to try WD40 cleaning only on my next new chain, which will likely be a DID gold one to hopefully prevent rust.

The OP's method looks great, but I haven't the patience for it.
 
I had great luck with my secret sauce and a Loob-Man delivery system.... 2 parts AFT and 1 part WD-40 provided adequate cleansing and lubrication that wiped off clean with a paper towel if flung all over the place. The only proof I have is the 45K - 50K mileage I got out of my chains. YMMV.
 
@MCRyder Mark, I keep hearing classical music in my head when I think about you spinning that drive and delivering perfectly precise drops to each and every little happy o-ring...."These are a few of my favorite things"....:lol2:
 
William Wolfen said:
There's a good argument for just keeping o-ring chains clean. I've gone back and forth between lubing then and not. My main issues have been rusting when not lubed and collecting dust to make grinding paste when lubed. Might have to try WD40 cleaning only on my next new chain, which will likely be a DID gold one to hopefully prevent rust.

The OP's method looks great, but I haven't the patience for it.
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I'm with Wolfen, I personally feel like Lubing an o-ring chain only helps the people who makes money off selling lube. I'm not convinced that any lube can stay on a chain while it's spinning with the exception of the wax based ones suspended in an alcohol and there's no way those stay on the mating surfaces with all the pressure between the chain and sprockets. I do think that cleaning a chain removes grit that can act like sand paper on the surfaces. My understanding of physics tells me that oiling an o-ring chain is useless after the first few miles which makes it a complete waste of time.

That being said, I want to share a tip for cleaning your chain while traveling. I saw this tip on a video which I think was made by Bret Tkacs. The only tool you need to carry with you is a knife, a toothbrush or chain brush and a rag.
1. Stop at a gas station.
2. FInd an empty soda or beer can and cut in half with the knife.
3. Walk over to the diesel pump and pull the pump out, there should be enough left in the line to put some in the can for free.
4. Put the bike on the center stand or trail stand if you don't have a center stand.
5. Use you brush and diesel to clean the grit off the chain and then use the rag to wipe the diesel off the chain. DONE!!!
 
Road bikes with the o rings get the chains scrubbed with chain brush, driven about a mile and allowed to dry. Sprayed with chain wax (DuPont Teflon chain drive). Works fine for me. I mean, if constantly oiling, why bother with getting oring or xring chain?
 
Mine never get cleaned , oiled at least every 500 miles with chainsaw bar oil and i havent replaced a worn out chain in 15 years l have replaced worn out bikes a couple times though . And I'm still on the first gallon of bar oil i bought 20 years ago for 8 bucks .
 
All of the chain manufacturers that make o-ring and especially x-ring chains will tell you all you need to do is keep the exterior of the chain clean and rust free. The lube is packed in at assembly and isn't coming out, especially on x-rings. Clean it and use a lube meant for all weather (I like PJ1 Blue for wet conditions since it sheds water). This keeps the o-rings from drying out. You honestly can't re-lube these kinds of chains. You can only keep them from rusting and the rings from drying up and failing. A chain will stretch out of spec before lube is an issue.
 
grumpy48 said:
Road bikes with the o rings get the chains scrubbed with chain brush, driven about a mile and allowed to dry. Sprayed with chain wax (DuPont Teflon chain drive). Works fine for me. I mean, if constantly oiling, why bother with getting oring or xring chain?
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I learned to like chain wax with bicycle chains. White lightning was the brand I remember from back in the early 90s. It dries and sheds itself clean over usage. Great for MTBs. But it doesn't last and needs to be done regularly, especially since the lubrication properties are minimal and it's designed to shed on a chain that isn't sealed.

The same would apply to MCs regarding lube properties and frequency. It'll condition the o-rings and keep the chain looking clean on a bike that doesn't go out in the rain much. On a rainy trip, like all mine seem to be, I'd have to apply wax every few days. A proper oil based lube will also help the chain run cooler.
 
When I bought my new Suzuki GSX-S1000GT I decide to give a Scott Chain Oiler a try. I installed the vacuum operated model. Small reservoir holds about 4 fluid ounces of oil. I am using Scott’s summer blend oil. I did a 450 mile ride Friday and used a little over half of the oil in the reservoir. I have yet to have to adjust the chain tension and the bike has 3400 miles on it. Now the bad part is yes there is some oil accumulation on the drive side rear of the bike. Comes off easily with a rag damped with mineral spirits. Very little dirt accumulation on the chain. Scott oil is quite thin.
 
RTL said:
When I bought my new Suzuki GSX-S1000GT I decide to give a Scott Chain Oiler a try. I installed the vacuum operated model. Small reservoir holds about 4 fluid ounces of oil. I am using Scott’s summer blend oil. I did a 450 mile ride Friday and used a little over half of the oil in the reservoir. I have yet to have to adjust the chain tension and the bike has 3400 miles on it. Now the bad part is yes there is some oil accumulation on the drive side rear of the bike. Comes off easily with a rag damped with mineral spirits. Very little dirt accumulation on the chain. Scott oil is quite thin.
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Always thought is was a waste of oil. In 450 miles, you left 2 oz of oil on the road to get on someone else's tires, in the ground water, etc. Add that up over 50,000 miles. 14 quarts of oil left on the road. In all seriousness, 3400 miles without having to adjust a chain is common, so is 10,000 miles, it's not a testament to the Scott oiler. I'll keep the oil in my engine and off my rear tire.
 
Ive seen 80,000 mile chains with a Scott oiler . Im ok wasting a bit of oil , cheaper than wasting chains
 
So sealed chains (O/X-ring) are really only half sealed. The bushing to pin surface is sealed and lubricated upon assembly. The rollers that are on the outside of the bushing and contacting the sprockets are not sealed. This where wear takes place. Keep these clean and lubed and there will be less wear.
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I've used this for almost 20 years on oring and non oring chains. And door hinges, lawn equipment, etc.

Happy enough I haven't looked to change. Except when I've had a hard time finding it. Lowes quit carrying it.

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I have used this packaging as well, it's similar if not identical, it behaves the same upon application.
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X1Glider said:
Always thought is was a waste of oil. In 450 miles, you left 2 oz of oil on the road to get on someone else's tires, in the ground water, etc. Add that up over 50,000 miles. 14 quarts of oil left on the road. In all seriousness, 3400 miles without having to adjust a chain is common, so is 10,000 miles, it's not a testament to the Scott oiler. I'll keep the oil in my engine and off my rear tire.
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You can use that logic for anything used on the exterior of a drive chain. 2 oz over 450 miles is not a trail of oil. There is some accumulation on the drive side of the rear wheel and tire edge but it is not wet and oily. The Scott oil is very thin so it will not leave a thick oily film. The chain is staying way cleaner than previous chains lube with a variety of o-ring compatible lubes. That has to be a good thing for chain and sprocket life.
 
I’ve been happy with wax based lubes (the DuPont one Sander pictured above) until a feral tomcat that the neighbors feed apparently decided my bike was his and began spraying the tires and the chain. In addition to the smell, this has caused the chain to rust which despite my cleaning efforts has spread.

I use moth balls to deter cats from the open pole barn, that partially works.

I’m thinking that after I replace the chain, I’ll build some sort of barrier around the bike. I hate that cat!
 
To me, lubing and cleaning the chain is the same operation. I spray the lube on the inside of the chain, with a rag behind it, followed immediately with rubbing that section of the chain with the rag. This coats the chain with the lube, as well as removing whatever is on the chain, including surface rust. Do this in sections, until the whole chain is done. Most of the sprayed lube is rubbed off in the process, leaving only a thin film.

Too much lube left on the chain either flings off or stays on long enough to attract dirt/debris to stick to it and form grime. That is way worse than if you just leave it bone dry.
 
RTL said:
You can use that logic for anything used on the exterior of a drive chain. 2 oz over 450 miles is not a trail of oil. There is some accumulation on the drive side of the rear wheel and tire edge but it is not wet and oily. The Scott oil is very thin so it will not leave a thick oily film. The chain is staying way cleaner than previous chains lube with a variety of o-ring compatible lubes. That has to be a good thing for chain and sprocket life.
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A clean chain is a good thing, no dispute there. Any abrasive material clinging to it are a bad thing. I'm just saying no amount of cleaning and external surface lubrication is going to prevent a chain from stretching and then wearing away the teeth on the sprockets because the pitch has lengthened. Sure you can use a stretched chain to 80,000 miles on a sprocket that has a shark fin hook to it, but should you? All metals elongate (stretch), But once you exceed the % of elongation for a given material, it then yields then breaks. I'm not cheap enough to risk a broken chain in the middle of nowhere with no cell signal. Can't limp home on bailing wire and duct tape.
 
MidlifeCrisis said:
To me, lubing and cleaning the chain is the same operation. I spray the lube on the inside of the chain, with a rag behind it, followed immediately with rubbing that section of the chain with the rag. This coats the chain with the lube, as well as removing whatever is on the chain, including surface rust. Do this in sections, until the whole chain is done. Most of the sprayed lube is rubbed off in the process, leaving only a thin film.

Too much lube left on the chain either flings off or stays on long enough to attract dirt/debris to stick to it and form grime. That is way worse than if you just leave it bone dry.
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I'm pretty much in total agreement. The only exception being lubing the chain is the same operation as cleaning. And I only disagree with it in that I don't believe you can actually lubricate the o-ring or x-ring chain where it really counts, and that is on the inside. However, lube on the outside of the rings does condition them and keep them from drying out and that is important. So in a sense, I fully agree and am wasting valuable kilobytes typing.:-P
 
focus frenzy said:
That looks like the needle they used to give me that penicillin shot back in the Army. Couldn’t sit for a week!
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It's a 20 gauge needle. And with a horse you'd better be good at giving shots, no fun when a 1000lb animal protests a poorly given stick :nono:.
 
X1Glider said:
I'm pretty much in total agreement. The only exception being lubing the chain is the same operation as cleaning. And I only disagree with it in that I don't believe you can actually lubricate the o-ring or x-ring chain where it really counts, and that is on the inside. However, lube on the outside of the rings does condition them and keep them from drying out and that is important. So in a sense, I fully agree and am wasting valuable kilobytes typing.:-P
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LOL. I agree.

Yeah, the O- or X-rings do need a bit of help on the exterior side. Not much, just to wet them a little. Also, the rollers and side plates do also need some level of lubricity, since the cog teeth do slide on them. However, it's the "keeping the chain clean and debris free" part that helps more than the thin film left behind by the lube/cleaning procedure.

Even if I were to wipe ALL the lube off and leave no thin film, the chain would last a service life probably just as long. I don't do that because it would take a lot more work to achieve no purposeful gain.
 
Oooh look, a chain oil thread!

I'd always heard that WD40 is bad for motorcycle chains and have stayed away from it. Here's a PDF from RK chains that says not to use it too. Look for the bold red text.


Overall I'm pretty terrible about cleaning/lubing/waxing my chains. I haven't met a lot of people with 80K on their chains but it seems that most folks who take good care of their chains end up replacing them at or before 20K miles. With my less than stellar regimen, I also get about 20K miles. Modern X-ring type chains are pretty amazing and you really just need to keep them from rusting.

Oh, and just because no one has said it yet, shaft bikes rule! :D
 
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