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Coastal Plains Ride Better Than Nothin

KsTeveM

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Dec 8, 2014
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Location
San Marcos, Texas
First Name
Steve
Last Name
Pylant
Feeling the itch to get out there. Was jealous some TWTers were out west a couple weeks ago after Turkey Day doing the Pandale thing. I couldn’t get away for that one, was doing the family thing in Luling. But I still got to play on two wheels outside and managed to cut a new trail. I got stung by a bunch of bees….thinking the new trail’s name is Stinger? Snagged the below pic of Grape and my son on the freshly cut “trail”.

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That kind of weekend and tight woods riding is fun for sure. But it is not the same as drifting like a nomad covering some miles. What is wrong with me? I don’t know, but the “road” is calling me. Right now I can’t take enough days off to accomplish what I would want to do out west in the desert, so I will improvise. I have had a route planned for a couple years as a backup for just this kind of situation. Little windy, little chilly, but I need this. So I will drift south and overnight somewhere. I’m rolling. And then I’m not rolling. Flat right off the bat.

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Back to the house where I could deal with it better. Class 4 failure, rim lock worn/punctures. Not sure if it is this funky wide 150 tire on this narrowish wheel or me running lower pressures, or the crappy thin tube. I wasn’t in the mood for this, just replaced the tire and tube and went with what I know works and works well. Struggled with all of the tire work though, 45 degrees this morning not helping, but I got it done. Back in it. I’m rolling.

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I was going to meander east for around 60 miles before turning south. Instead of meandering, I beelined cause of the lost time….and I had a meeting with destiny.

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My eventual goal with this trek and the routing was to see some new to me stuff. As I rolled into the Flatonia area, it wasn’t just a new zone to ride, there was something else new!

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What is better than one Super Enduro? You got it, two Super Enduros, aha aha aha.

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Bwdmax in the house!!! This was just the kind of spice this trek needed…..two scoobies chasing each other around the backcountry on big stupid dirt bikes.

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The bike is brand new to him and I think I was just as excited as he was. A low mile clean 2007 with plenty of goodies.

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We stopped for lunch in Hallettsville, nice little town, really nice/big court house.

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Back out there, we started really running the old horses hard. Perfect timing….a good long stretch of dirt, like 20+ contiguous miles. “Not a bad record for this vicinity”.

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Really enjoying it. Going that long without touching pavement. And hearing the Vtwins roar the dual duals. And checking out the country side.

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Stitching in the dirt as much as we can….made me think of those Revzilla boys doing a trek on vintage bikes that they wouldn’t let touch paved roads, no matter what.

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Such nonsense. Couple dinguses. And along the lines of something we would do :-). That got me wondering what that 48 year old 1975 XL 350 weighed in the below pic…..I looked it up, 314 lbs. That sounds heavy, then I thought about our 950s. I like doing stupid stuff, but I can tell you that we are not going to be fireman carrying the Super Enduros today :-). More to come!!!

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Who knew Stevo was a farmer...
We swapped bikes for a bit. Why you ask? Why would I do that? I don’t know.

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Maybe it was planting a seed….the kind that results in a second Super Enduro?

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Scott is also prophet...
I try to avoid riding other people's bikes... It always seems to lead to me buying another bike :doh:

Well that was in April so I guess it take about 8 months for the SE seed to produce fruit.

Truth is I've been on the hunt to replace the V-Strom for a while, but due to various factors have not been able to get it done. While we were in Utah back in October a nicely outfitted 950 adventure popped up on Facebook so I begin a conversation with the guy and I thought we had a deal. Then he went silent on me but the ad was still up. He finally reached back out to me the week of Thanksgiving saying he had been out of town working but had a friend that would meet me at his house with the bike. I texted back and forth with the friend, even had a conversation. I had my trailer hooked up and was about two miles from the house when he called and said he needed to cancel but he could do it the next day. I texted the guy the next morning for a time and he never has responded. Okay I'm moving on; found a nice 950 Adventure S model in DFW area on ADVRider for only slightly more money than the FB one that was shaping up to be a scam or get robbed in a back alley. I sent a PM to the guy on ADVRider and turns out he had SOLD the bike the week before. I was bummed but not defeated. Look I don't really need a bike the V-Strom is totally functional I just have the itch for more power, more ground clearance, and more suspension travel. Seems every time I go out with Stevo and his SE I come home and have to straighten my bash plate on the Strom...maybe I should just stop riding with Stevo. Not going to happen! Monday Dec. 4th I pop over to ADVRider again and search for KTM 950 as these are the bikes that seem to deliver in my budget. Well a 950 SE pops up that is in Texas but outside my budget. I quickly set to doing some moto math and accounting to justify to the wife why I should bust my budget. Don't laugh, it worked. So this bike is located in Texas but it is closer Oklahoma that it is to me. I exchange info with this cat and he is the real deal, no scam, no cut throat. I have to move my daughter that Friday to Brownwood so I'll be north but still a good way from him with an empty trailer. This guy is headed to Ranger Friday for a funeral, Ranger is only an hour from Brownwood. It's a date and now I have a 950 Super Enduro.
I know this bike is impractical, I know there are more reliable bikes, I know there are modern bikes that can match the performance. Yeah I'll buy on of those next when I'm old and wiser...
 
Ok, back to the rest of the ride Saturday. Things inevitably get flat as you head south in this zone, so I have been probably subconsciously putting this ride off. But I told myself it’s still “adventuring” no matter the degree of it. Right?

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Really pretty day out there. And I especially appreciate the monster oak trees that are all over this zone.

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I can’t stop grinning every time I eye ball/hear GarBear dropping the hammer on his 9fiddy. There is something about the torquey linear power of that motor, the way the carbs feed it, the stance…..and the happiness inside your soul. Grinning on his six, I took a couple spirited rocks to the body, got some new happiness bruises.

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I glanced at the GPS, we were in the Edna area at this point. Have you seen the cartoon movie The Incredibles? I said EDNA really slow, out loud in my helmet. The stuff that entertains me?

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A lot of water crossings, the Lavaca, the Arenosa, the Garcitas, the Marcado….all heading south as they tend to do. I’m definitely seeing some new to me stuff. Daydreamed a bit about crossing this stuff on horseback. I would want a paint, with low gearing and good ground clearance. Took some pics of the cooler water crossings, the smaller creeks looked more like what I call turtle ditches, didn’t qualify for the camera.

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Gary did point out some retention ponds, and ditches next to the road that could channel the water for the rice fields…I tried to get a pic of the fields.

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We continued on, scooting further south, through Placedo. I tweaked it, kept saying placebo in my head. Say it slow, like EDNA. Downtown Placebo. This town needs an enema.

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But with my goofy pronunciation, it was staying in my brain. Wondered what it was named for, was figuring some kind of translation of a “place”. Nope, named after a dude, Placebo Benavides, an organizer of volunteer troops in the Texas Revolution. He established a ranch here in the 1830s. By 1920 the town had a population of 300 with a bank, school etc. Sounds like they took a hard hurricane hit in 1925 and struggled to recover. I wondered about the 1925 hurricane….all I found was a tropical storm that year with gale force winds for the area and a big storm surge. Your brain can’t help but think of the deadly Galveston hurricane but I couldn’t remember what year that was. Some factoids—it was called the Great Storm of 1900 and is still the deadliest natural disaster in US history, about a third of the 30,000 Galveston inhabitants died. It was a Category 4 with 140mph winds and 12 foot storm surge, pic below of the aftermath. Another tidbit, a Category 5 has never made land fall in Texas.

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Historically satisfied, we rolled out heading for more water…..of the salty variation. But first we did a little maneuver involving some farm fields and Nine Mile Creek. Sometimes you just have to do something questionable to feel alive inside and have some apprehension. But it ended up being no big deal and kept us headed in the right direction, on dirt. Bonus.

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Feeling satisfied, we kept rolling south and eventually popped out (pop, not poop) in Port Lavaca. Just so I could get close to the ocean and see some blue. Made me think of something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue.

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Bwdmax had to roll for the house, prior obligations. Glad he was able to tuck in for a little bit. He just got that bike a week ago and it was killing him that I was going to be in his back yard riding. We did our secret Super Enduro handshake and he went on his way headed north. I headed south.

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Something old….my Super Enduro is 17 years old, probably qualifies as old in the grand scheme of things. You old devil you.

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Something new…..I’ve never been to this exact area, all new to me. Got to ride on the beach for a bit.

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Something borrowed….I’m about to borrow a beer from a store around here, for later. But first I wanted to trek to Indianola. Why? I saw it on the map, sounded interesting and I had no knowledge in my pea brain about it. Off I go…..found the monument and also did some reading on the web.

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Prince Carl of Solms-Braunfels (yes he named New Braunfels after his homeland where he was born in Germany) settled on Indian Point as a port of entry for German immigration in 1844.

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This port was second only to Galveston in size at the time. Now it is more of a ghost town. What happened? Here is the gist….it was once the county seat of Calhoun County. In 1875 the city had a population of 5000 but on September 15 of that year, a hurricane struck and killed several hundred people and almost entirely destroyed the town, to include the lighthouse and keeper. The town was rebuilt only to be wiped out again in 1886 by another intense hurricane, which was followed by a fire. After that, the county seat was moved to Port LaVaca. The post office was closed in 1887 and the town declared “dead”. I guess being on the “point” was a bad call as almost nothing remains today after all the storms that hit it head on with nothing to slow it down. The actual site of the old town is now under water. This granite marker was placed on the shore at the nearest point to the Indianola courthouse, now 300 feet away in Matagorda Bay. Hmmm, interesting huh? But help me with this…..I can’t imagine traveling all the way from the beautiful rolling green countryside of Germany/Austria and then hanging out here? No offense meant if you are a coastal beach bum, this just ain’t my jam. I continued on to the marina.

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Got something to eat and the something borrowed. Hung out for a bit overlooking Powder Horn Bayou. Young guys were killing time waiting for night fall for the real fishing.

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Rolled out, caught another cool monument. Can’t imagine growing up here in the 1800s and then seeing camels along the shore? I thought about the plaque I read south of Marathon detailing camels in service out there….pretty sure we are talking about the same exact ones. While this trek has been quite different than West Texas, it does have the feel of being similarly isolated in its own way down here.

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It was time to hole up someplace. Originally I was going to crash on a buddy’s couch in Seadrift. But he informed me that it was getting pretty full with duck hunters and there might not be any room in the inn. But I could still crash in the stable on a blow up manger. I had thoughts of people being kind, bringing me gifts and singing cool songs…..then thought better of it as I played that scene out further. I knew it was going to be more like drunk duck hunters farting on my head when I try to sneak away to my manger too early, with visions of dirt bikes dancing in my head. And then when they get up really early (or never go to bed), while drinking spiked coffee, there would be more incessant trash talk about the baby in the manger that is staying back with the women. Oh yeah, more farting in deliberate proximity to the stable. Ahhhh, I’m thinking a dive motel on the water for $58 bucks might be the ticket. Pulled up here and made it so. I’ve stayed in worse, with worse views.

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Sat for a bit watching the day getting ready to call it a night. With more riding to do the following day, I did the same.

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I can't stop thinking about leaving beautiful Germany/Austria in the mid 1800s to come to what is basically the swamp of Indianola....or to travel to Solm's New Braunfels. No offence New Braunfels, but you ain't no Austria/Bavaria.

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Never really thought about the why behind Fredericksburg/New Braunfels' German influence. My mind just accepted that a bunch of Germans settled in Texas and built cool buildings that I have always admired. But seriously why would anyone make that trip? The usual reason I suppose. Here is the gist.

After the collapse of the Holy Roman Empire at the hands of Napoleon in 1806, there was a loose coalition of German states known as the German Confederation. Austria served as kind of their Washington DC. In March of 1848 things changed when some university students had a demonstration in Vienna and later in Bavaria (a sentiment had been sweeping across Europe). Student demonstrators demanded a constitution and elected officials. Emperor Ferdinand and his Chief directed troops to crush the revolution and ended up shooting several students. The new working class joined the student fight and there was an armed insurrection. Austria demanded the Chief's resignation, and got it. Ferdinand moves on and works on a draft for a new constitution, which was rejected due to the majority of the citizens being denied the right to vote. Some concessions were made but there was another protest a few months later about the government's decree to reduce wages. And again some protestors were shot, same year, 1848.

Bottom line, these German Revolutions were a result of Austrians/Germans wanting more control of their lives. Those that stayed were forced into exile to escape political persecution, where they became known as "Forty-Eighters". Many immigrated to the United States, settling from Wisconsin to Texas. So let me get this straight. In the 1840s Germans left Germany cause they didn't like "the half-feudal nobility and absolute monarchies which refused to relinquish their authority and wanted to continue to suppress the demand for civil liberties, representative government, centralized nation state and economic and social opportunity to the individual"? Anybody else see the irony? So ol Solms baby had his stuff together bringing everybody to Indianola roughly a hundred years before things really hit the fan....say during 1939, when the German self proclaimed nobility took authority and started suppressing civil liberties, representative government and individual/social opportunity? Sorry to ramble, I just found this all interesting. I will try to finish up the riding part of this trek if folks are even still interested.

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I need day two...:coffee: I was day dreaming about riding all day Sunday.
 
Looks fun, Curious about the routes as I live in Edna. Definitely no dirt to be found around seadrift lived there for way too long. I was cruising Edna, Port lavaca, seadrift, and towards poc on the Harley yesterday. Beautiful day.
 
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I have a theory though about why they ended up in Texas.

I figure they arrived in the autumn, and steeled themselves for winter. Then they experienced a Texas winter and compared to one in Germany, they thought they'd found heaven on earth. Spring rolled around and they were happily building houses and planting crops and settling down in paradise. Then July and August rolled around, and they were like "Well s**t, what did we do? We're stuck here."
 
"Bottom line, these German Revolutions were a result of Austrians/Germans wanting more control of their lives."

That pretty much sums it up for my Alsatian ancestors who settled near Castroville.
 
I wonder if there was ever a time when ole Hermann Lehman thought, dang Mom, Dad why didn't you just stay in Germany and take a chance with what was coming.
 
I wonder if there was ever a time when ole Hermann Lehman thought, dang Mom, Dad why didn't you just stay in Germany and take a chance with what was coming.
I might have to read that book!!! Nine Years Among the Indians

This went down in Loyal Valley.....we regularly ride our bikes through there:

On May 16, 1870, a raiding party of eight to ten Apaches (probably Lipans) captured Herman Lehmann, who was almost eleven, and his eight-year-old brother, Willie, while they were in the fields at their mother's request scaring birds from the wheat. Their two sisters escaped without injury.[2] Four days later, the Apache raiding party encountered a patrol of ten African-American cavalrymen led by Sgt. Emanuel Stance, who had been sent from Fort McKavett to recover the two Lehmann boys. In the short battle that followed, Willie Lehmann escaped, but the Apaches fled with young Herman. (Sergeant Stance became the first black regular to receive a Medal of Honor for his bravery on this mission.) The kidnapping site was designated a Recorded Texas Historic Landmark in 1991, Marker number 11283.
 
Alright, the second leg of this trek. Sunday I was up with the sun, pretty normal for me when overnighting somewhere solo. Packed up and headed out.

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It looked nice outside, but pretty chilly. I pushed the bike away from the motel to fire it up/warm it up. I thought about the duck hunters shivering somewhere out there. How stupid to deliberately go out and subject one’s self to that.

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I rode off into the elements on my bike, shivering and headed down roads that were going to take me longer to get home. Clearly a fully realized enlightened human being.

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In typical enlightened fashion, I didn’t have the best of warm clothes and didn’t even bring my cold weather gloves. It was 45 degrees and I was wearing Dirt Paw MX gloves!! I stopped a few times, put the gloves next to the motor and warmed my hands on the exhaust. No big deal….but I probably should have splurged on my packing allowances for the better gloves in the morning :-). Despite the chill, it was really a pretty morning. I knew this cold thing was just temporary….even though it ended up being a thing for about 3 hours since I started rolling so early.

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Staying with the new to me route concept, I rolled north and west to see some different territory compared to my trek down here. Tried a section of dirt, denied passage, stupid water authority/dam. No big deal, back to the pavement, rolled over the Guadalupe River, steam was coming off.

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I was thinking a café would be cool, catch some grub and warm up someplace. Passing through Tivoli, saw this place and did a u-turn. Et some grub and downed some tea. That’s right, no more Dr. Pepper for me. I haven’t had a soda, leaded or unleaded, in over two months. I won’t go so far as to say it is going well, but it is going. I do like being off my typical Dr. Pepper/Zero and I’m no longer putting any kind of sweetener in my tea. Bwdmax said my taste buds would adjust. They did, took about 4 weeks before I was no longer pissed off at the bland taste of unsweet tea and black coffee. Still wouldn’t call this enjoyable, but it is tolerable. And this tweak is here to stay, part of my long term enlightenment preservation plan. Now if I can lay off the Coors Light, that would be progress. Shut your mouths, baby steps. And yall said it is like water anyway, so shut up twice.

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Rolling these straight backroads was better than going through Victoria. Snagged another section of dirt going through an open range ranch. Something about the early morning in isolated places, the deer were taking notice of me as I was taking notice of them. Too far away for pics, but there were a lot of them, some with mesquite like looking trees on their heads. I only got a pic of the moo deer.

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Stitched in some more pavement, actually got excited when there were some road signs indicating a curve….seems all the paved roads down in this part of the world are straight as an arrow :-).

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As I travel, I stop at some historical markers, some I skip. Just kind of a feel thing. The schools and grave sites are kind of boring. I like the bloody massacre murder type ones, they are uplifting. I was bout to cross Perdido Creek and this one caught my mind, I bet this will be a good one? So I pulled in. It was. A battle took place here in 1817 between the Spanish and a Texas Republican army headed up by two veteran officers of the Battle of New Orleans. Americans were out numbered 3 to 1, a hard fight took place and the American officers refused to surrender even when the opposition offered it up. Said they would rather die. And they did. The town of Fannin is close by as well….more history from 1836 after the fall of the Alamo. I didn’t see that monument, will save that lesson for another time.

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Back on some FM road, this oak tree sure was pretty, with it’s sheer size and Spanish moss hanging. It’s almost 10am at this point and I am still fighting the cold some. Dadgum it.

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Eventually hit a road I heard about on someone else’s ride in these parts, Fox Crossing. Pretty cool section of dirt.

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And again demonstrates just how splendid a morning this was. I got off my bike and walked around some at a little creek crossing. Just listening to the sounds. Maybe Fifteen Mile Creek? Whatever it is, it dumps into Coleto Creek. Which dumps into the Guadalupe…which dumps into the gulf toilet bowl.

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More dirt out there.

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Next up, downtown Meyersville. There was no traffic. Cool old building, said 1917 at the top. It was just missing a couple old dudes playing chess.

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Next zone, got into that Yorktown-Nixon-Smiley area, quite a bit of decent dirt in these parts.

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Needed another history lesson for the day. Have you ever wondered why Smiley was called smiley? Me neither. Settlers began moving to the area in the 1840s attracted to water from a long natural lake along the main San Antonio-Indianola (by Port LaVaca where I went yesterday, that’s cool!) trade route. Jim Smiley was the first known to use the lake as a campground. The surrounding prairie grass was great for cattle and horses. As sufficient numbers were amassed, the animals were driven to Belmont to join herds headed north on a branch of the Chisholm Trail. In 1879 George Calley from Georgia settled permanently on the bank of the Old Smiley Lake and built a horse powered cotton gin and saw mill. I’ve grown up in this general area, High School in La Vernia, later lived in and around Seguin/Belmont, had a great grandmother that lived in the Smiley area at one time. I’ve never heard of anyone bragging about a lake in Smiley, have you?

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I read that about a mile south of present town is the original Old Smiley Lake townsite, historical marker half mile south of town. Looking at Google Earth a mile out….I don’t see no lake people. I read a small reference that said the lake is no more, water is provided to the town via two wells. I guess it is another situation of “progress”. Elm Creek runs through that general area a mile south of town, I’m guessing it use to fan out in a wide spot when the water table was higher. While not intense history, it was still interesting and better than anything y’all have learned me lately! Except for @triman, he gets a pass.

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All of this area is familiar stomping grounds at this point but it is still nice floating around remote country side and thinking about days gone by.

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I was cruising on dirt about to come up to Hwy 87 and stumbled on these funky signs. They don’t look like state historical signs. But pretty cool to stumble onto them out here…..and tie back into the Indianola history, again.

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Onward, rolling through the Leesville area. And some more history trying to grab me before the ride is done.

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Native American raids were a major concern for the DeWitt Colonist that settled this area. In 1835 a party of 13 French and Mexican traders in route from Natchitoches Louisiana to Mexico were camped on Sandies Creek. A large group of Comanche attacked the party and after several hours of battle, killed all 13 men. I sat for a bit at the below spot on Sandies Creek with my engine off and tried to imagine fighting for my life here. Strange feeling and not a location I would envision taking my last breath.

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Ok, no more history today, for real this time. I’m on the home stretch at this point. Dirt is about to run out.

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This old house looked cool, leaning pretty hard. Wish it could talk. I would have climbed the fence to look at it closer, but there was signage asking for that not to happen. I don’t think this guy will be standing for too many more years. If it was my property, I would shore it up just good enough to at least last my lifetime. I like the vibe.

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Not a bad ride, better than nothing? Snagged a couple more pics of the typical grey forest this time of year up here. Live Oaks predominantly replaced with Post Oak, Blackjack and Hickory….smells cool anyway. Until I drift again….smell ya later.

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KTM SuperEnduro pictures on the beach😎….where are the donut pictures 🍩

Crossed my mind....but it wasn't the right setting. I could see evidence from others acting the fool. Didn't seem right with various folks camping along this smidge of beach. Another time, another place.
 
I wish I did. From that point forward, I get the feeling he dodged all of the photo ops.

Nice report Steve. I had no idea John Wesley made it to these parts. He has a really nice state sponsored burial site in El Paso.
 
Took a little digging, but my research team was able to find a pic from a Licketysplat Family Reunion from 1876. This has to be your Great Great Uncle. The article said he also broke his femur in the battle, but never shed a tear.

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Now you know where I get my hairline from. Speaking of femurs, these kind of ride reports are making it difficult to keep my horses in the barn. Stop it!
 
That is not a bad idea. I am just not sure where I would go. Maybe there are nice dirt roads from Texarkana south down the state line?
 
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