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Depending on where your adjusters are now, you may get away with it. But as Windmill said, there probably won’t be much adjustment left. I would expect at least one link will need to be pulled.
 
Remarkably, adjusters not even at full extension and we're good with the new one. Couple of interesting notes though.

1: the aftermarket sprocket cover: little too thick I think.
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2: my assistant is growing more helpful by the day.
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3: Don't use harbor freight allen wrenches.
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Tip, don’t try to turn the bolts, turn the nuts. Even more important on hubs that use cone head bolts. I break the nuts loose before taking the wheel off the bike. Easy-peasy, no bloody knuckles.
 
That little tin oblong thing hanging on the adjuster tit on the above right swingarm that the axel goes throgh. I only have one on the chain side. Does it really matter if one is missing? A spacer shim I guess.
Man I used to live near Top Notch. Love that place.
 
Pretty sure there’s only one on one side Windmill. I’ve had my bike since new and it only has 1. Never tried to figure out it’s function, just put it back on every time I change a tire.
 
jbird710 said:
Pretty sure there’s only one on one side Windmill. I’ve had my bike since new and it only has 1. Never tried to figure out it’s function, just put it back on every time I change a tire.
Click to expand...
Mine is on sprocket side does it make a difference
 
Not sure if it makes a difference, but mine is on the brake rotor side and that's what it shows in the OEM parts diagram for the rear wheel.

Part #19 in the diagram
 
Kilroy said:
Having just dissected one today, I can confirm it's only on the brake side ;-)
Click to expand...
Thank you both I am going to put my rear wheel back on tomorrow if I can spoon tire over tube. I forgot about Cheap MC puts. I need to do bearings and seals. One has a slight knock.
.I had a low rear and hit it hard around a turn and spun the tube. Had to retrieve with trailer. Not far thank goodness. Just a pain.
Better hang on to those air-cooled bikes. Probably won't be made by Honda much longer. I love mine even though it is a beater.
 
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After looking at the diagram that @jbird710 posted it is described as an “axle stopper”. The diagram shows it on the brake side and with that description it makes sense that it goes on the brake side. The swing arm is slotted all the way and the axle can slide out the back. The chain will retain the chain side while the “axle stopper” will retain the brake side during maintenance such as chain adjustment where you only want to slide the rear wheel forward and backwards but not remove it.
 
Makes sense. There are the hooks on the end of the swingarm that you can set the axle on reassembly. Then slide the axle forward, hook that part on the stud sticking up, feed the chain on the sprocket, set the adjusters, and ltighten down the shaft.
 
Any one interested in a set of wheels?
Really good shape, with a good set of Kenda K761's

I was running them for in town with a set of dirt wheels/tires for off road.

Picked up a newer XRL and Ive decided to not run two different sets. The new bike is running an over sized front rotor and the swap is a pain.
 
$500 obo.
eBay looks like they are going for about $250 each. I don’t want to mess with eBay….
 
Who wants to sell me their XRL,? Gotta a nicely farkled bike? Message me with what ya got? If you want to sell it...that is
 
Love the look of the 2022. I just don't understand why Honda just won't update the 2nd and 5th gear to what most riders prefer. Requires no retooling of the engine build. Just use 2 different parts and you're done!! :giveup:
 
Hey John, that's not hideous. Try the fritzco. If that doesn't work, weld it on. If you want to do a full rebuild, youtube San Fransico Steve or xr650l motor rebuild. It's a step by step guide to doing it. Very thorough.
 
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