Yep, but my question was EVERY change. And of course you will inform the JD dealer about that copper won't you?
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Oil Changes
- Thread starter Bledsoe76
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When i rode high mileage , yes it was every change , on the heavy equipment fleet i worked on for 25 years same thing every time i dropped oils samples were taken . I could look at results and tell you how the machine was preforming and also if it were being mistreated by operators . Samples were ten bucks each but in 25 years i only overhauled 3 motors and we ran many tractors over 10,000 hours without major overhauls because minor problems did not become major problems . If we had a machine that was not preforming to the standards i thought it should it would become somebody elses problem before it turned into a problem for us . Our machines were serviced on schedule , motor oil at 250 hours all gear boxes checked and filled all fittings lubed fuel and air filters replaced or checked , and at a thousand hours all filters and oils were serviced . and if a machine had issues that needed addressed between normal service things would be changed to make sure it could do the job required of it . If it couldnt do the job it it was moved on and replaced by something that could . Proper servicing and the oil samples is what showed us if it was up to the challenge . There is a lot more to it than just changing oil . stuff like that gets important when its a half a million bucks for a new tractor .Yep, but my question was EVERY change. And of course you will inform the JD dealer about that copper won't you?
Wont need to change oil then , just throw it away and buy new every couple yearsI’m going to come back to this thread in 10 years when we are all electric.
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For the most part, I do. I may forget or skip here and there, but it lets you track trends. Oh, I had high silicone in that last sample? What's it doing on this next sample? Ah it went away. They can usually tell me that I used RTV on that last part replacement if it comes in contact with oil. At least one time it let me catch a bad vacuum line that was leaking enough to cause a spike in silicone (dirt) but not large enough to cause any running issues. Testing once a year might let you see a snapshot but that's a whole year of running with potential issues getting worse.Yep, but my question was EVERY change. And of course you will inform the JD dealer about that copper won't you?
I wonder how many of us here are speaking about oil changes in a $500,000 tractor?
If its good enough for a half a million tractor it should be just fine in my lawn mower .
@Bledsoe76 do you need any opinions on tires? 
Honestly yes. Considering switching to tubeless. Not sure where to find wheels and tires. What brands are good.@Bledsoe76 do you need any opinions on tires?
I went tubless on my Gran Canyon last winter , the rear shinko 705 is almost showing cord with less than 3,000 miles and the front isnt much better . I wont be buying those again . I dont think i ever ran a Tourance for less than 6,000
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I never got less than 8k out of a 705.
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Great job on oil analysis. Knowledge is power and you have a lot of great data on each of those engines. I am going to start on the 890 at the next change. I am always an early change guy. Will typically change after every "big/hard" ride or 2,500 miles. I am a bit worried about the cam lobs on the 890, seem to be a real issue on these. Seems more the parallel twins are made in China than I realized. Not happy about that. 
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BMW's twins were made in Taiwan, I believe for a while. Might still be made there.Great job on oil analysis. Knowledge is power and you have a lot of great data on each of those engines. I am going to start on the 890 at the next change. I am always an early change guy. Will typically change after every "big/hard" ride or 2,500 miles. I am a bit worried about the cam lobs on the 890, seem to be a real issue on these. Seems more the parallel twins are made in China than I realized. Not happy about that.
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I would take Taiwan way before China. Someone on ADV Rider shows the CF Moto part numbers for KTM cams... Uggggg
The 950 had cam problems too , mine are still like new after 70,000 miles on schaffer oil for 68,500 of them . i heard valve rattle with the motorex oil very early in its life . It came out and never went back in .
That would be a deal breaker for me .
That seems to be the consensus. More like 5-6K+ for a rear and twice that for front. I guess you must be running the pressures really low to only get 3K out of a set.
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Yea I didn't know when I bought it. Love Shaffer's oil, used it in a Duramax diesel for 100,000 with zero issue. A few years ago, I switched everything to Amsoil, it's much easier to get for me. Use it in all the motorcycles, tractors, truck, cars and Polaris. One thing nice in the Polaris, if you use the factory oils, it takes 5 different oils for a single service, with Amsoil it is only 3.
2,000 of those miles were going up and down the Big Horn mountain's , at a speed avarage of 60 mph and i seldom exceeded 80 on the open stretches up top . I only used the brakes for slow traffic and double yellows were crossed occasionally . After a few trips a few of the hairpins became very fun passing zones , good visibility and i knew where the gravel was going to be that washed onto the road from the rains . It turned into a fun summer and the high country was 20 to 30 degrees cooler than the low lands . 15 minuets from my summer home to 8,000 feet . Tire inflation was checked regularly low tires dont handle worth a crap .
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Oooooo man Pandora’s box just opened. But the t-6 meets the requirements. I run it in my gtr1400 concours without issues, diesel truck, and tractor. It is about to go into my Ktm 1090r.
Basically, ride it, change the oil, and worry less. It’s all fixable!
Yeah, Murphy's Law #2708: If it jams, force it. If it breaks, it needed replacing anyway.
Reminds me of an engineer(mech) we had in our riding group. EVERY vehicle he had reached about a third the normal lifespan. His nickname was The Hammer! RIP
All this oil talk and my Jeep's "change oil soon" light came on, and also I owed an oil change to my Bonneville. The Jeep has had Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 and a Mopar filter every 10K since new, did all but one of the oil changes myself. It's right about 70K. So riddle me this: over the past month or so, twice I have started the Jeep after it sat cold for a couple of days and it blew a big enough puff of oil smoke at startup for me to notice it in the rear view mirror. It doesn't do this every time. I do park it on my driveway at a nearly 20 degree incline, if that has anything to do with it. But anyway, my gut tells me this must be leaking valve stem seals. Could this have anything to do with my oil choice? Or is it maybe a result of parking at an angle all its life? Should I worry?
Also my Bonnie, I bought it with 4200 miles on it and immediately put it on a 1500-2000 mile OCI, now it's about 18K. Triumph recommends Castrol, so the first several oil changes I put Castrol "Racing" 4T full synthetic in, but the Castrol is no longer available locally so I got Mobil1 "Racing" 4T 10W40 this time around. On the Scrambler, 51K miles, I put Rotella T6 as a test, since it's cheaper. Scrambler seems to be absolutely fine with that oil, but it has harder clutch springs than the Bonnie and doesn't rev as high. Rotella T6 in my GS500 caused the clutch to slip above about 8K, which is why I worry about trying it in the Bonnie. Any reason not to use the Mobil1 Racing 4T? It has the stock clutch and I do rev it above 8K at times, but I wonder if there's any reason I shouldn't try T6, since it's less than half the price of the boutique 4T oils.
Also my Bonnie, I bought it with 4200 miles on it and immediately put it on a 1500-2000 mile OCI, now it's about 18K. Triumph recommends Castrol, so the first several oil changes I put Castrol "Racing" 4T full synthetic in, but the Castrol is no longer available locally so I got Mobil1 "Racing" 4T 10W40 this time around. On the Scrambler, 51K miles, I put Rotella T6 as a test, since it's cheaper. Scrambler seems to be absolutely fine with that oil, but it has harder clutch springs than the Bonnie and doesn't rev as high. Rotella T6 in my GS500 caused the clutch to slip above about 8K, which is why I worry about trying it in the Bonnie. Any reason not to use the Mobil1 Racing 4T? It has the stock clutch and I do rev it above 8K at times, but I wonder if there's any reason I shouldn't try T6, since it's less than half the price of the boutique 4T oils.
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