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Tubeless conversion experts!! Where ya at?

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synthlegend

synthlegend

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So...let's kick a hornets nest!! Really digging the new Vstrom 800 DE. However like the new Transalp 750 it uses tubes. I am not inclined to change a tube on one of our summer scorchers. Wondering who's done a conversion and how reliable was it? Please don't flame me for being lazy! Appreciate ya!
 
Converted the rear rim of my t700 about 2years and 15000 miles ago, maybe more. I tried the Outex kit unsuccessfully; I was unwilling to grind the spoke nipples down as that looked sketchy to me so the stick on seal dots were not completely effective. I then went with the 3M sealant 5511 (I think) to seal the spokes/nipples to rim then the 3M (4412) tape over. No issues. You can google to get the correct numbers on the tape and sealant, it was long enough ago that my Amazon order is not in history.
 

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I'm currently doing mine. I called the experts (Woody's Wheel Works) to get advice on what they use and I'm following their directions. I too am converting a Tenere 700 rear tire using Outex as Woody's does. Woody's also sells nipples they use which do not require grinding. I replaced the nipples prior to sealing them. Woody's recommends using Goop to seal the nipples prior to applying the Outex tape. I've sealed the nipples and I'm getting ready to apply the Outex tape. Since this is how Woddy's does it on rims they sell to the public, I'm sure it will be successful. I think if you apply the Outex without sealing the nipples and only use the nipple covers, it's less likely that it would work for long term.
 
Been sealing spoke wheels tubliss for 20 years now , only time i had a failure was when I let somebody change a tire and they buggered up the sealant . Latest ones I have been using shrink tape with really good results and much better choice as it is much stronger protection of the area needing sealed over . I wrap the spoke section with heavy duty tape then cover that with the self sealing shrink tape . Clean the spoke nipples with a wire wheel to remove any burrs than a good wheel cleaning and drying before any sealing . I dont seal a non safety bead wheel
 
I have used Outex and never ground the nipples. Worked great on an Africa Twin. Just put the little stickers on each nipple then the spoke can be tightened without disturbing the thick tape sealer.

Once you see the tape after it has been in place for a year or so, you will see grinding the nipples is completely unnecessary.
 
I wish y'all would quit talking about grinding nipples! 😳😬. 😂

Actually wanted to do this on Makenzie. I read and watched a lot about it. Could do the rear but it's a shame the front doesn't have the bead that will allow you to (safely) go tubeless.

My next bike will be tubeless front and back!
 
Gina, believe it or not neither my KTM 1090 or my new KTM 890 have rims that are "tubeless safe", yet they come from the factory as tubeless.

Lots of debate about which way to go, but in my experience, it has never been an issue. My thinking is I still care a tube in case I cut a tire so bad that a tubeless patch won't work. But knowing how hard it is to remove any of the large rear tires I want to have a chance for a quick fix before I try to do a tube installation in the side of the trail.

I have had great success with the little sticky tubeless repair things. I have had huge holes put into my large tractor tires and had to use 6 rubber string patches in the same hole and it has been sealed for over 10 years without issue.
 
Here is the guy I followed and seemed to have a good youtube video. Many other videos out there:

I converted my rear tire on my T7. It went very well. Rear tire now holds air better than when it had a tube. My concern is that it will ultimately fail due to vibration, impacts, and time. When this happens, I will put a tube back in the tire.

Two observations:
1) Tape was very difficult to put over sealant. Not sure it does much good, but I would still put it on.
2) 90 degree valve stem was hard to find an 8 MM, but worth the effort so I did not have to drill my valve stem hole to enlarge it.

Supplies:
90 degree valve stem that fits your existing stim hole (90 Degree 8mm Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valve Stem 5/16). This way you do not have to drill out your stem hole which may make it more difficult to convert back to a tube in the future: https://www.ebay.com/itm/250767809568 <-- Looks like this is no longer offered on ebay. As I said, hard to find. Here is link to the vendor that I bought it from. https://www.ebay.com/str/nomartirechangers?_tab=1
Patch Roller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D3MF3NX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Sealant Tape: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7CLRW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Marine Adhesive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AY6CA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Rim Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DDADCI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Brake Cleaner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LDR9HI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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Hornets' nests, okay. But first, thanks, PP9848754890, very helpful post! LINKS to this stuff, great!

As to my experience going topless, er, tubeless... A pal has tried twice, I think, using Outex and the 3M stuff, and I think it would have worked if he had any kind of patience. I know or know of a lot folks that have been very happy using all kinds of methods. It seems that being meticulous every step of the way makes the difference.

My pal finally went with Woody's on two bikes that needed wheels anyway, and it's been flawless. Nothing more to say, except that Woody (RIP) won't do wheels unless they have a safety bead, so no 21" rims.

About those safety beads: I'm not convinced. I've flatted tube-type fronts, on 21" and 19" rims, and a flat tube does not keep the tire on the bead, nor on the rim. Maybe a safety bead does. Definitely makes it harder to dismount/mount big adventure tires on a rear, but I'm not sure it would keep one on at speed on hot day.

My personal experience: As I might lack the patience to be sufficiently meticulous myself, I opted for Tübliss system. Several years, a few thousand miles on the 690, no problems. I'm very pleased. I'm realizing that the OP's new strom 800 might have giant tires on wide rims that the Tübliss won't work with.
 
Safety beads are not really required if staying above 30 psi , but I like running fat tires on front and running lower air pressure so my front tire on the dirty bike has a tubliss in it , 9 psi sure makes for a smooth ride .
 
My Africa Twin has been Tubeless front and rear using an Outex kit since 2017. I have had one spoke leak that needed to be repaired. It's been great other than that.

My T7 has been Tubeless front and rear a couple years now using an Outex kit. I didn't do as good an install job on the T7 and had a couple spoke leaks in each wheel early on. Being lazy I used 3M tape over the Outex and am leak free now.

I was glad I was tubeless when I picked up a horse shoe nail on the T7.

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Reminds me of the old proverb

"For the want of a nail, a shoe was lost
For the want of a shoe, a horse was lost
For the want of a horse, a message was lost
For the want of a message, a battle was lost
For the want of a battle, the kingdom was lost
.... (There are several versions...)

Perhaps we could come up with our own

For the want of a patch, the tire was lost
For want of a tire, the rider was lost
For the want of a rider, the rally was lost
For the want of a rally, TWT was lost?!
 
I did my rear tire on my Tenere 700 last month using the method recommended by Woody's Wheelworks. I ordered an Outex kit and lower profile stainless nipples from Woody's.

The first thing I did was to change out the factory nipples for the stainless ones. Make sure you use a little anti-seize to keep the nipples from galling against the spokes. After the rim was trued up, I wiped down the rim with acetone to remove any oil or grease.

I then sealed each spoke individually using Goop Automotive glue (per Woody's advice). After the glue dried, I went around cleaned up and removed any glue strings. I also trimmed the glue with a razor knife to make sure the tape had room to seal between the glue and the shelf where the bead sits.
TIP: The glue will settle and run, make sure the glue is set before turning the rim to the next group of spokes.

The next step was the Outex tape. I heated the rim with a heat gun until it was warm and started applying the tape per Outex's instructions and made sure not to overlap the tape at the end. I used an aluminum tire spoon to make sure the tape was pushed down properly to seal against the rim starting in the middle and working toward the edge attempting to push out all bubbles. I also used the heat gun to heat the tape a little as I went along.

After getting the tape sealed the next step is to place the protective layer on the double sided tape you just applied. I applied the protective layer the same way I applied the tape, using the heat gun and tire spoon.

The last step is to seal the gap between the start and finish of the tape. I did this by cutting a small portion of tape and centering it over the the gap and then cut a piece of the protective covering and placed it over the tape. I decided to go an additional step and sesl the edges of that covering with the goop to eliminate a place for air intrusion.

Now all you have to do is put in your valve stem and let the rim sit a few days for the tape to properly settle. DONE!!!

P.S. I lose less air since sealing my rim than I did with the tube in.

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SORRY, I forgot to take a picture of the rim after sealing the individual spokes with goop and forgot to take a finished product after sealing the edges of the overlap tape but you get the idea.
 
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