Wow! If we had known, he could have told us the story.
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NM: Land of Tarantulas and Insanely Low Speed Limits
- Thread starter SpiritAtBay
- Start date
Wow! If we had known, he could have told us the story.
Thanks! I sure enjoy your write-ups. I think you do a better job catching the human angle; interactions with folks.
You could say it's a 'thing' with me. but i didn't start it.
TNC
0
Say, I have a question for you. Most of my life I've been going out west to 4WD and dirt bike, but my comings and goings usually have me going S or N of that section of I-25. I'm looking at doing a trip that will take me to that stretch to camp in my toyhauler near Elephant Butte or close for a base camp for 3 or 4 nights to ride some of the area.It was awful. An awful amount of fun!
In looking at your report and where you stayed at that Pelican Inn, I saw lots of what appeared to be hot spring/spa types of setups. Is that a big geothermal active area? I'd never heard of that feature in the area. Just curious.
You guys have the best rides! Thanks for sharing.
At some point we need to get the 1250 back from Las Vegas, this route may be in the cards.
At some point we need to get the 1250 back from Las Vegas, this route may be in the cards.
RedPill
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Texas has stepped up its efforts to restore Horned Lizards to their former range. It's happening, but more slowly than anyone would like. There are many factors.
Zephyr
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Fire ants?
Yes, Texas State Univ (for one) has an active program to re-establish wild populations.
Now my cover is blown! LOL That was great weekend of riding at the HC 500. Since my Tenere 700 is broken in, I can ramp up the RPMs. Thanks for the kind words, Danny Boy. Looking forward to another get together with the TWT nation!
May be a long weekend at Big Bend around the middle of November??
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Looks like a great adventure - and well documented with good pictures.
Thanks Tim
RedPill
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That's one of them. Another is the use of bait poisons to control red ants. A lot of folks have used those on fire ants, and fire ants just ignore them. But they work very well on red ants, the main food of horny toads.
The Fort Worth zoo has raised and released thousands of horned lizards, as have several university biology programs, and Texas Parks and Wildlife.
TNC
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I moved to my home out in the country about 27 years ago near Abilene, TX. At that time we had horny toads everywhere. I don't remember when the fire ants showed up in force, but they did. Knowing that the main h-toad diet is red ants, I've worked at trying to keep a few red beds around while trying to kill the fire ants...at least keep them in some form of check. Even with that effort, the horney toads have disappeared and have not returned at this point. This pic is one of the last poor souls I've spotted around the home. He looked alive but was eaten completely from the inside out by fire ants. Just one of the foreign invaders from down south...LOL!
Attachments
Onward!
Day 2, Tue 6oct
On today’s agenda is Chloride Canyon. We rode thru here a year ago. Then I was on Beastie Boy, a Husqavarna 701 Enduro, with fork travel of ~10” and ground clearance even greater, it was a bike made for tougher trails than Chloride Canyon. Today, I am on a different animal altogether.
Makenzie is a 300 cc twin with about 5” of travel and 7" ground clearance. He is still wearing the stock tires, street oriented Pirelli’s. With the rear showing a good bit of wear. Oh well, John assures me we can always turn around if the going gets too rough.
But we are excited to return to CC, it was a very fun ride last year and since then I’ve learned there are Native American petroglyphs in the canyon. We want to look for them.
Soon we are at the Winston general store again. We stopped here yesterday, John topped off his bike and we sat outside and ate pulled pork sandwiches. Today, John tops off and again, we eat sandwiches. this is a great little store. Even offer showers, $8.50 towels included. We make a mental note of this amenity; think how nice it would be if you camped rough the night before and then could take a hot shower in this super clean restroom?
Winston General Store
View from the porch
Topical artwork in restroom
Soon we have entered Chloride Canyon. John says the locals call it Chloride Creek.
A rugged, narrow canyon with a stream that the road crosses and recrosses and sometimes follows. Cows range this canyon so you occasionally pass wooden pens and loading chutes. Last year and this time, it feels like I'm traveling back in time, to the real old west. Not the Hollywood version.
We stop and look for doodles on rocks.
It's nice being off the bikes, enjoying the sounds of birds and the burbling creek.
I got excited when I saw this cave. Thinking it would be a great location for an artist to work.
No rock art that we could see but a popular place for some locals. Can you spot the cave guardian?
He did not want to give up his place in the sun on that rock. (If he only knew what danger lurked inside, waiting for darkness...)
Penthouse suite, aerial access only
Right when we are about to give up, BOOM! There they are, right beside the road! How did we miss this last year?
Occasionally, I noticed the sky above was gray and vaguely threatening. We discussed how we Did Not want to be in this canyon in case of a storm. We were not even halfway thru, but if we turned back, we would have to go all the way back to T Or C.
The decision was made to press on. Soon, the sky lightened. The road got rougher. And steeper. There were more washouts than I remembered. And there is this one switchback that caught me by surprise last year. The road appears to go over a hump and then to the left. But actually it's a rutted, loose switchback to the right. Last year I dumped Beastie Boy here. This year I saw the hump and remembered. But i was already on the inside and not in a good way. I stopped. John passed me and pulled off onto the fake road on the left. He suggested I use that area to launch. I did, and made the switchback no problem. But no time to congratulate myself because the road only got steeper and with more loose rock. Keep Going! And then Keep On Going! The road climbed and climbed. Makenzie handled it all like a champ.
Day 2, Tue 6oct
On today’s agenda is Chloride Canyon. We rode thru here a year ago. Then I was on Beastie Boy, a Husqavarna 701 Enduro, with fork travel of ~10” and ground clearance even greater, it was a bike made for tougher trails than Chloride Canyon. Today, I am on a different animal altogether.
Makenzie is a 300 cc twin with about 5” of travel and 7" ground clearance. He is still wearing the stock tires, street oriented Pirelli’s. With the rear showing a good bit of wear. Oh well, John assures me we can always turn around if the going gets too rough.
But we are excited to return to CC, it was a very fun ride last year and since then I’ve learned there are Native American petroglyphs in the canyon. We want to look for them.
Soon we are at the Winston general store again. We stopped here yesterday, John topped off his bike and we sat outside and ate pulled pork sandwiches. Today, John tops off and again, we eat sandwiches. this is a great little store. Even offer showers, $8.50 towels included. We make a mental note of this amenity; think how nice it would be if you camped rough the night before and then could take a hot shower in this super clean restroom?
Winston General Store
View from the porch
Topical artwork in restroom
Soon we have entered Chloride Canyon. John says the locals call it Chloride Creek.
A rugged, narrow canyon with a stream that the road crosses and recrosses and sometimes follows. Cows range this canyon so you occasionally pass wooden pens and loading chutes. Last year and this time, it feels like I'm traveling back in time, to the real old west. Not the Hollywood version.
We stop and look for doodles on rocks.
It's nice being off the bikes, enjoying the sounds of birds and the burbling creek.
I got excited when I saw this cave. Thinking it would be a great location for an artist to work.
No rock art that we could see but a popular place for some locals. Can you spot the cave guardian?
He did not want to give up his place in the sun on that rock. (If he only knew what danger lurked inside, waiting for darkness...)
Penthouse suite, aerial access only
Right when we are about to give up, BOOM! There they are, right beside the road! How did we miss this last year?
Occasionally, I noticed the sky above was gray and vaguely threatening. We discussed how we Did Not want to be in this canyon in case of a storm. We were not even halfway thru, but if we turned back, we would have to go all the way back to T Or C.
The decision was made to press on. Soon, the sky lightened. The road got rougher. And steeper. There were more washouts than I remembered. And there is this one switchback that caught me by surprise last year. The road appears to go over a hump and then to the left. But actually it's a rutted, loose switchback to the right. Last year I dumped Beastie Boy here. This year I saw the hump and remembered. But i was already on the inside and not in a good way. I stopped. John passed me and pulled off onto the fake road on the left. He suggested I use that area to launch. I did, and made the switchback no problem. But no time to congratulate myself because the road only got steeper and with more loose rock. Keep Going! And then Keep On Going! The road climbed and climbed. Makenzie handled it all like a champ.
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I would point you in the direction of the Rubber Chicken Ride, a (usually) annual dual sport ride that HQ's out of Truth Or C.
Hot springs. Don't know much about them except that, as you noticed, some of the hotels have the mineral rich, hot water piped in. It is glorious to soak after a day of hot, dusty riding.
duchess
0
Great pics, love the horney toad!!
agree -the speed limits are torturous
agree -the speed limits are torturous
27nov 2021 Cold, wet day in Kerrville TX = good day to work on this ride report before the details dim in my old memory bank....
So, in my previous post, John and I were deep in Chloride Canyon. The road eventually leaves the creek bottom (the switchback that gave me trouble last time) then continues almost 20 more miles before it becomes pavement (Hwy 59). We followed 59 for 16 miles until it turns into gravel (Technically it is still Hwy 59 but is also signed as Loco Mtn Rd and Bursum Rd). It was 4:30 in the afternoon when we left pavement behind us.
Day 2 of 4, 5oct21
This is a section of the NMBDR which we rode in 2020. We are riding quietly along, enjoying the scenery. I know I have ridden this road before and I keep thinking something will come along that will jar my memory. Nothing does. The gravel stretches on and on. The sky is gray and the temp is cool.
We stop to "help" a bull snake off the road before someone squishes him. The snake does not appreciate our help.
Another hour and nothing has looked even remotely familiar. I don't worry because John is the gps and map guru. Still, it seems that something would strike my memory. Then John comes over the Sena. "Ya know, I don't remember any of this."
"Snow Lake" I say, "We will remember Snow Lake." I pause, "Won't we?" John, "I dunno, I thought we would have passed that by now."
Nothing to do but keep riding. It is late afternoon and clouds are growing thicker, temp noticeably dropping. We ride on.
Our nervousness is revealed by the fact that there are no pictures. John eventually spots the turn off for the direct route on the BDR, (the section that contains a few challenging climbs. A section neither John nor I want to ride again.)
In growing twilight, we see several herds of elk. We see no other vehicular traffic. At last, we reach a section both of us remember, the long, paved, gradual descent out of the mountains where the glorious state of New Mexico has decided in it's infinite wisdom to apply a thick layer of marbles in EVERY corner. This slows our progress appreciably.
When we reach a more or less direct line of sight to the town of Reserve, we stop and call the hotel. Yes, there is a room available. Unfortunately, the hotel's restaurant is closed. The voice on the phone says to just call when we arrive. Excellent! We ride on in the darkness and dropping temperatures. The lights of the tiny town of Reserve are a welcome sight. Even more welcome is an open restaurant. We had thought we would be eating Clif bars and tap water for dinner. We come in out of the dark and cold and gratefully shed our gear at a table. While we waited for the food to arrive, I called the hotel again to let them know we were still coming, had stopped to eat a burger in town. "No problem" the voice assures us. We enjoy a delicious dinner and chat with the owner and our waiter a bit.
Cheeseburger with green chilies, yeah baby!
As we leave the restaurant, John comments we had better keep our speed down because of elk, we had been warned by the waiter there was a local herd who often walked the roads after dark. It is about 10 miles out of town to our hotel. Just a few miles to our destination and the skies opened up. Icy cold rain poured down upon us. When we reached the hotel, I rode Makenzie right up under the narrow awning to the phone check in. I picked up the reciever and am connected. "Sorry, we are full." "WHAT?!" I nearly screech. The voice on the line is calm, unconcerned, "Oh, yes, another couple just pulled in not long ago." After some tense moments, I realize the person we spoke to earlier is not the same person I am speaking to now. I am now speaking with the owner and she says she can put us in another, bigger room and will charge us for the smaller room we had been promised. We surely did appreciate that she was able to accommodate us. Lesson learned- despite the first person telling us it wasn't necessary to provide a credit card to hold the room, we should have insisted. We should have also gotten this person's name. But hallelujah, we are out of the rain, in a warm, dry room. With room to spread out our wet gear.
Day 3 on the bikes. 6oct21
The morning dawns clear and bright. Chilly, but it isn't raining. We met an interesting character this morning. A veteran of the Viet Nam War, he had a put together a folder of original writings and poetry about his experiences in the war. He gave us a folder. He was staying at the hotel and taking long hikes in the forest. He set out on foot before we left on the bikes. Striding purposefully with a walking stick and small daypak.
We are headed to Alpine, just over the border in Arizona. I layer on everything I can but still am chilled as we cruise. John laughs as I fondle Makenzie's cylinder head, trying to thaw out first one hand and then the other. Even though John tells me there won't be any restaurants in Alpine, I feel sure we will find somewhere to eat. We did, at a convenience/general store. We bought frozen meals, cooked them in the store's microwave, the clerk found some plastic ware for us. Her husband walked around swatting flies in the windows. There weren't many customers coming in that early in the day.
Alpine, AZ
Hwy 180 between Reserve and Alpine
Forest Rd 249. Apache Sitgreaves NF
We stopped when John spotted a beaver dam. Can you see it?
While stopped, we see this critter crossing the road. We feel compelled to "help" it.
Very much like the bull snake, this guy didn't appreciate our efforts. We got him to the side of the road and he promptly turned around and headed back to the asphalt.
Here we get edumicated on the local geography. Those hills in the distance that kinda look like volcanoes? They were volcanoes!
The bikes wait while we are schooled.
I stuffed my gloves where they could get warmed up a bit. It was still cold!
In Springerville, we ate at "Booga Red's Restaurant." Can't say much for the name but the food was good.
Hwy 191, just south of Alpine
Hwy 191, between Hanagan Meadow and Strayhorse. (I just like the names.)
Dear Arizona, how about one double ended arrow sign, instead of two separate signs with arrows pointing at each other?
We reach the end of alpine forests and pristine mountains and find ourselves on the doorstep of Mordor!
What forsaken place is this?
We are driving through the Morenci Mine, one of the largest copper reserves in the world. This mine is HUGE (see it on Google Earth). We did not go out of our way to drive through this martian landscape, it is practically unavoidable. The public highway goes through it. The mine periodically moves the highway!
Next installment, the surprising town of Clifton.
So, in my previous post, John and I were deep in Chloride Canyon. The road eventually leaves the creek bottom (the switchback that gave me trouble last time) then continues almost 20 more miles before it becomes pavement (Hwy 59). We followed 59 for 16 miles until it turns into gravel (Technically it is still Hwy 59 but is also signed as Loco Mtn Rd and Bursum Rd). It was 4:30 in the afternoon when we left pavement behind us.
Day 2 of 4, 5oct21
This is a section of the NMBDR which we rode in 2020. We are riding quietly along, enjoying the scenery. I know I have ridden this road before and I keep thinking something will come along that will jar my memory. Nothing does. The gravel stretches on and on. The sky is gray and the temp is cool.
We stop to "help" a bull snake off the road before someone squishes him. The snake does not appreciate our help.
Another hour and nothing has looked even remotely familiar. I don't worry because John is the gps and map guru. Still, it seems that something would strike my memory. Then John comes over the Sena. "Ya know, I don't remember any of this."
"Snow Lake" I say, "We will remember Snow Lake." I pause, "Won't we?" John, "I dunno, I thought we would have passed that by now."
Nothing to do but keep riding. It is late afternoon and clouds are growing thicker, temp noticeably dropping. We ride on.
Our nervousness is revealed by the fact that there are no pictures. John eventually spots the turn off for the direct route on the BDR, (the section that contains a few challenging climbs. A section neither John nor I want to ride again.)
In growing twilight, we see several herds of elk. We see no other vehicular traffic. At last, we reach a section both of us remember, the long, paved, gradual descent out of the mountains where the glorious state of New Mexico has decided in it's infinite wisdom to apply a thick layer of marbles in EVERY corner. This slows our progress appreciably.
When we reach a more or less direct line of sight to the town of Reserve, we stop and call the hotel. Yes, there is a room available. Unfortunately, the hotel's restaurant is closed. The voice on the phone says to just call when we arrive. Excellent! We ride on in the darkness and dropping temperatures. The lights of the tiny town of Reserve are a welcome sight. Even more welcome is an open restaurant. We had thought we would be eating Clif bars and tap water for dinner. We come in out of the dark and cold and gratefully shed our gear at a table. While we waited for the food to arrive, I called the hotel again to let them know we were still coming, had stopped to eat a burger in town. "No problem" the voice assures us. We enjoy a delicious dinner and chat with the owner and our waiter a bit.
Cheeseburger with green chilies, yeah baby!
As we leave the restaurant, John comments we had better keep our speed down because of elk, we had been warned by the waiter there was a local herd who often walked the roads after dark. It is about 10 miles out of town to our hotel. Just a few miles to our destination and the skies opened up. Icy cold rain poured down upon us. When we reached the hotel, I rode Makenzie right up under the narrow awning to the phone check in. I picked up the reciever and am connected. "Sorry, we are full." "WHAT?!" I nearly screech. The voice on the line is calm, unconcerned, "Oh, yes, another couple just pulled in not long ago." After some tense moments, I realize the person we spoke to earlier is not the same person I am speaking to now. I am now speaking with the owner and she says she can put us in another, bigger room and will charge us for the smaller room we had been promised. We surely did appreciate that she was able to accommodate us. Lesson learned- despite the first person telling us it wasn't necessary to provide a credit card to hold the room, we should have insisted. We should have also gotten this person's name. But hallelujah, we are out of the rain, in a warm, dry room. With room to spread out our wet gear.
Day 3 on the bikes. 6oct21
The morning dawns clear and bright. Chilly, but it isn't raining. We met an interesting character this morning. A veteran of the Viet Nam War, he had a put together a folder of original writings and poetry about his experiences in the war. He gave us a folder. He was staying at the hotel and taking long hikes in the forest. He set out on foot before we left on the bikes. Striding purposefully with a walking stick and small daypak.
We are headed to Alpine, just over the border in Arizona. I layer on everything I can but still am chilled as we cruise. John laughs as I fondle Makenzie's cylinder head, trying to thaw out first one hand and then the other. Even though John tells me there won't be any restaurants in Alpine, I feel sure we will find somewhere to eat. We did, at a convenience/general store. We bought frozen meals, cooked them in the store's microwave, the clerk found some plastic ware for us. Her husband walked around swatting flies in the windows. There weren't many customers coming in that early in the day.
Alpine, AZ
Hwy 180 between Reserve and Alpine
Forest Rd 249. Apache Sitgreaves NF
We stopped when John spotted a beaver dam. Can you see it?
While stopped, we see this critter crossing the road. We feel compelled to "help" it.
Very much like the bull snake, this guy didn't appreciate our efforts. We got him to the side of the road and he promptly turned around and headed back to the asphalt.
Here we get edumicated on the local geography. Those hills in the distance that kinda look like volcanoes? They were volcanoes!
The bikes wait while we are schooled.
I stuffed my gloves where they could get warmed up a bit. It was still cold!
In Springerville, we ate at "Booga Red's Restaurant." Can't say much for the name but the food was good.
Hwy 191, just south of Alpine
Hwy 191, between Hanagan Meadow and Strayhorse. (I just like the names.)
Dear Arizona, how about one double ended arrow sign, instead of two separate signs with arrows pointing at each other?
We reach the end of alpine forests and pristine mountains and find ourselves on the doorstep of Mordor!
What forsaken place is this?
We are driving through the Morenci Mine, one of the largest copper reserves in the world. This mine is HUGE (see it on Google Earth). We did not go out of our way to drive through this martian landscape, it is practically unavoidable. The public highway goes through it. The mine periodically moves the highway!
Next installment, the surprising town of Clifton.
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You are making me wish I were on the road. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice. I've been through the area you've reported on. But only on the paved part! Some great roads and beautiful scenery for sure.
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I'm not sure why he would tell you that. The Bear Wallow has been there for decades and caters to riders. It would have been on your left as you approached the gas station / convenience store at the 191 intersection.
And if it had been past 10 am the Alpine Grill directly across the street from the Bear Wallow would have been open, and the Foxfire is one more block east of that.
Trailriders Family Restaurant, less than a mile south on Main St in Eagar is another good choice as well for anyone visiting the area.
Heck, I'm just proud of you for getting it (almost) correct. Many folks, including native Arizonans tend to call it Hannagan's Meadow. Yes, the double N is correct but the possessive version of the name is not. The Lodge at Hannagan Meadow is a good place to spend the night, or to grab lunch as you're riding the Devil's Highway. We normally ride 191 from S to N so we'll stop at the Lodge and drink a root beer while sitting on the front veranda and watching for elk in the meadow across the road.
One of my best outdoor experiences was camping just south of the lodge and being woken up at 4 am by the howling of the pack of Mexican Gray Wolves that call that area home. Next to the call of the bull elk, that was the most unique thing I've ever heard in the wild.
I really do enjoy your ride reports; well written and a good selection of photos. Thanks for spending the time to share them with us.
Re: food in Alpine, I should have said we would be there before any of those fine establishments would be open
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The Bear Wallow opens up early on opening day of bow season. I know because I was really lucky on a cold, wet Saturday morning a few years ago. Nice ride. Thanks for continuing the report, especially during this dry spell of riding reports.
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Yep. 7 am is normal for anyone else traveling through the area.
You were lucky indeed. On
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