Southern Utah 2023...same old thing.

[TNC]

OK, I want to preface this ride report with a disclaimer. I'm only doing this because KsTeveM has constantly berated me for telling some of my stories about trips and such with no pictures...and being pretty light on details on my stories. And let's face it...he enjoys lording it over the rest of us with his polished, highly entertaining ride reports, death defying ride locations, and Ansel Adams quality photos. So, with a heavy heart and great reluctance, I proceed.

I am fully retired, quit my part time job, and my wife of 50 years passed away last year, so I have lots of time. Don't get too mushy about my wife. It was an awesome 50 years, and she never gave me grief for the many solo dirt motor and other trips I took for adventures that weren't her cup-o-tea. Not having kids, we got to share lots of adventures 4-Wheeling all over the western U.S., so she appreciated my pursuits on the motorcycle.

Anyway RideFreak, Chris Romer the video drone king...he'll like that and get the big head, LOL!...sort of talked me into going to an annual event they have at a place called 3-Step Hideaway south of Moab that caters to off roaders. Some of you probably know it. It sounded a little to me like one of those places akin to the movie, "From Dusk 'til Dawn"...where you go in and that's the last they hear of you...with a big bunch of motorcycles, SXS's, and 4WD vehicles piled up out of sight in the back of the property. I'm always armed, so I thought I'd take my chances.

 

[TNC]

I left the Abilene area well before the event, and lazily made my way west at a leisurely pace. Remember, I got plenty of time. Plus, I'm riding a new to me XR650L that I was still not completely in tune with yet, having been a plated KLX300 guy for years. I did the Big Bend area for a couple of weeks in March and was a little uncomfortable with the XR still. And like I always do, I modded the bike in all kinds of ways, and it already had some Gucci stuff added by the PO like an FCR-MX carb and such.

So, first day out I make Capitan, NM to make sure I have cool sleeping conditions. I'm a boondocker whenever possible without hookups and ammenities. I like to stay in the BLM land that contains Fort Stanton. Oh, and BTW I'm traveling in a 26' toy hauler pulled by a Ram 1/2 ton pickup...XR in the back obviously. It's no wonder my sig line for my posts over on ADV is, "Candyass Camper". Yes, I've backpacked, slept in tents, and inflicted upon myself all manner of travel pain...ain't doing that no more. I'm 71 and in some ways I'm going to start acting like it...LOL! Did I mention cool sleeping conditions? It was 29 degrees that night but otherwise good weather. The sleeping bag in the toy hauler took care of business. The next morning I ate at the Smokey Bear Cafe like I usually do. It's a wonderful greasy spoon that's perfect for a good breakfast. Sorry, no food pics as I think you folks who are constantly posting food pics are weird...even though I occasionally post a pic of tequila in the toy hauler...LOL! Besides, I usually eat my own cooking in the RV...and I'm still alive to tell about it.

 

[TNC]

I hit the road with the vague plan of getting to Bluff, UT at some point to do a couple of days riding there. Yes, been there, done that, but like a good thrill ride at Six Flags, it's hard to get tired of. I stop for the evening at Chinle, AZ and stay at the Canyon De Chelly NM campground just outside of town. Stayed here many times over the years as it's a convenient stop over either coming or going. I did stay a couple of days one time and rode some entertaining stuff past the monument toward the town of Navaho. It was worth it. There were very few vehicles in the campground which was a little different than other trips...and the cottonwoods hadn't really gotten ginned up yet. Still, it was a peaceful night.

The next morning I see a late model Moto Guzzi parked about 50 yards away that came in sometime. There was a small open tent with no around. I walked over to look at the bike since I haven't seen a Moto Guzzi in the flesh in years...and none of the later models. While standing out in the public road looking at it, a knock-out of a young lady walked up, and she was the owner/rider. She couldn't have been more than 21, and she was cute as heck. She was coming from home in South Carolina and going cross country to visit some friends in LA, CA. We talked for a few minutes, and I let her get on with her business. I did take one pic of the bike. Now...here's where Steve will throw a little fit about not taking a pic of the young lady...just like he threw a fit when I didn't take a pic of a group of nuns who saved my life out in Split Canyon in the Anza-Borrego area of California. I mean c'mon...Steve is more than willing to intrude on people in some very inappropriate circumstances. And you can imagine the lecherous old man scenario of me demanding that this young motorcycle lady pose for a picture...and imposing on nuns. I'm a gentleman...not sure about Steve.

 

[TNC]

The next day I made Bluff quite quickly with the plan of staying in the campground at Sand Island just west of Bluff. Stayed there numerous times. It's a nice, no frills, BLM campground, and I've never had a problem getting a spot if you come in early in the day. Well, covid has ruined that along with a lot of other things. So now what? I've always noticed that large expanse of BLM land from Sand Island toward Bluff. I can even see the top of a big truck camper in the distance. So I take a decent dirt road out there and talk to the old fellow in the camper. He says he's been staying at that spot for years with no hassle...and admittedly there are no posted prohibition signs of any kind. I find a good spot with a solid ground base and set up about a half mile from the Sand Island entrance. I unload the bike and get ready to rumble the next day.

First on the list will be Comb Wash. I never get tired of it. However, as I near the end of Comb Wash at hwy 95, it starts spitting a little drizzle and the wind really gets up as a norther is blowing in. It never really comes down, but it looks threatening as heck, so I hot foot it back to camp...the Weather Channel app had not predicted this...bastids! Well, when I arrive back at the RV, the sun pops out, the sky clears, and it's a beatiful day at 11:30AM. Sorry for the discouraging word

, Weather Channel...LOL! So after a sandwich I head back out and do Comb Wash all over again in sunshine. Did I mention I never tire of Comb Wash? There was almost no one out there on Comb which I found odd compared to past cases. In fact as this trip went on I saw a pattern of full campgrounds and campers and RV's going every which way, but not that many people on the trail compared to past experience. Where are they all going during the day?...Starbucks?...museum of fine arts?...beauty spas?...LOL! Well, they're not clogging up the trails where I was at so good for them. Finished a nice day of riding and enjoyed the back door down/screen up in the RV for a nice view.

Next day was the Butler Wash/Comb Wash loop. Did I mention I like Comb Wash? Not much to report on this as it was a beautiful day, and I was starting to get a grip on the XR. Few people, great scenery, perfect weather...what could you want. However, when I got back to my camper, there were fresh signs stating "No Camping" posted all over the place. I rode down to the Sand Island ranger station or whatever it is and asked about it. The BLM guy said it's always been No Camping, but they never enforced it. He told me that since I was already out there that I could stay as long as I wanted within the 14-day rule. Well, good on him, but this is one of the things I hate about our federal goverment. Someone is running a large herd of cattle out on this stretch of land, and there was even a big corral about 100 yards from my RV. But...people can't camp out there. This is a flat land area stomped continously by cattle, but you can't camp there. Pfffft! The next day was Snow Flat Road that comes off of Comb Wash and goes all the way to hwy 261. This is an awesome ride, one of the most scenic in the area. I did run into a KTM rider from Ft. Worth, also solo, and we visited for a few minutes. Again, hardly anyone out there on the trail.

 

[TNC]

There was one disturbing thing I observed out on Snow Flat. While stopped at an overlook of the canyon there I see a huge campfire ring. I suddenly smell the stench of buned meat that nearly turned my stomach. It wasn't your normal campfire cooking smell which is often quite pleasing. No, it was like a caveman style odor of a bunch of neanderthals who had slain a mammoth and cooked it hair and all. And then I saw it...and I knew who was responsible. Hanging in a juniper bush was a long, cooking tong. That's when I realized that Steve had been by here performing his usual ritual of burning meat...as he puts it...and he tops it off by littering the beautiful scenery with his abandoned cooking utensils. In addition, he probably had killed some local, endangered species critter to execute his burnt sacrifice. Oh the humanity!

 

[TNC]

Next day it was time to head to 3-Step Hideaway for the shindig. Scott and Julie the owners were just absolutely awesome people who couldn't be nicer. My fears of a "Dawn 'til Dusk" scenario faded quickly. I hooked up with Chris (RideFreak) and met a bunch of the other folks who came to ride. Chris and I planned to do the Island Mesa route down into Gypsum Valley in CO, cross the Dolores at that remote bridge, and make our way back to 3-Step via a back way through Slickrock, CO on dirt. I had done this route before and Chris had not. It was not that gnarly when I did it a few years ago in the fall. Oh man, when we got to the big descent off of the mesa to drop into Gypsum Valley, we found the descent and even some of the approach to be quite different than when I rode it. Apparently the county or whoever, does some dozer work during the summer for access or maybe hunting season preparation. This being early spring, the winter had done a number on it, and it was in a raw state nothing like I had experienced in a fall trip. In Chis' video on RideFreak TV you can see the big rocks that had tumbled into the trail before we even got to the descent. The descent itself had washed out ruts and rock piles that weren't normally there...and this is a really steep descent even when it's groomed a little. Anyway, we survived, and I didn't fall down. Once headed down you were committed, because even Chris questioned whether he could get back up that. I think he probably could, but I'd sure want to see that video...LOL! And no, Steve...I didn't get a personal pic of the descent because I feared for my life, and any phone pic would have too shaky. Besides, Chris got it on video...LOL

 

[TNC]

The next day Chris, myself, and two other guys at the shindig head out to do Hook and Ladder trail complex south of Moab. Upon arrival this definitely looks like more of an ATV/UTV venue. Motorcycles are allowed, but the ATV's and UTV's have churned up the sand to a pretty big degree, but to be fair, this complex appears to have been laid out with those types of OHV's to enjoy, and it seems ATV/UTV groups have done most of the maintenance. I go with the guys for a bit, but the sand is more than I want to deal with, and the XR is a bit of a pig in this much sand. I went on to cross hwy 191 and go over toward the Canyonlands Needles and just poke around a bit. Chris and the guys on their KTM's were able to ride a good bit of Hook and Ladder but said the sand did take away a good deal of the fun.

 

[TNC]

The 3-Step shindig broke up Sunday, and I head off to the San Rafael Swell. I've been there twice with groups from ADV over time, but the area is huge so I had more to see. I found a good free camping spot in the BLM land that used to be a marshalling yard for Utah DOT with a nice, firm, gravel base. I camped north of I-70 near Temple Mountain Road. While unloading the XR, it slipped on the folding ramp that I use to lessen the angle of the drop down door. The bike fell off the edge of the ramp and hit the ground hanging at a 45 degree angle. I didn't have that much trouble righting it and getting it down on the ground, and amazingly there wasn't a scratch on the bike...lucked out. I've since learned to just use the drop down door to unload with the bike in gear and dead motor. It's way more controlled that way. The folding ramp is more predicatable for loading as I just walk beside the bike in first gear, engine running, and just smoothly clutch the XR into its wheel chock. Lessons learned and work smarter not harder...LOL!

Chris had suggested I do the Buckhorn Wash Road all the way north and do The Wedge at the end. It's pretty much all dirt but super easy, fast going even for cars. He said the scenery was the payoff. Man, was he right. It's got to be one of the most beautiful canyons in Utah, and it goes on for quite awhile. At the end you can do The Wedge which is the overlook for what they call The Little Grand Canyon. It was all pretty amazing.

 

[TNC]

Next up was Black Dragon. I'd heard a lot about how good this trail was, and it didn't disappoint. It wasn't gnarly, but it wasn't just smooth 2-track by any means. This may have been my favorite ride of the trip. It just had everything...deep, narrow canyon, beautiful scenery, and enough terrain features to keep you on your toes. Loved it.

 

[TNC]

I was going to do Eagle Canyon, but I'd done it before with a group, and I wanted to do Red's Canyon. On a past trip I'd headed into this route, but it was late in the day, and this is a long ride since it makes a loop. It's amazing like everything else out there, and I was glad to get to see all of it this time.

 

[Simmons1]

This report is awesome!! Thanks for taking the time to post it.

 

[Boulder Ed]

very nice. I recognized some of the pic points

 

[LicketySplit]

Great job TNC! I have wanted to ride up Buckhorn Wash road for years. Thanks for taking us along...

Great ridefreaktv video of you too!

 

[TNC]

Anway, I was a little spooked but went on about the business of riding...fearless as always...LOL! I'll mainly mention the Flint Trail, as it really is the premier ride out there close to Hite, and it leads to other great areas. It's funny that the closest thing to a crash on this whole trip occurred out there on Sunset Pass...even closer to that nasty descent on Island Mesa where Chris tried to kill me. There's a decently steep climb on the way up to Sunset Pass, and there was a small ledge of loose rock. I was in second gear, scooting to victory when the tire hit a rock that spun out of place and caused the bike to nearly turn 90 degrees. Being the consumate, experienced, old hand at trail disaster, I stayed on the gas and the bike recovered. Having read Steve's manual on he-man riding in rough conditions also helped.

 

[TNC]

The Colorado River was really rolling. I came across a float trip crew struggling to do a takeout on the north side of the Colorado. The normal takeout had a sandbar and access road to the water. The sandbar was 20 feet underwater and swirling heavily. They had to go around a bend and really had fun getting the boats and gear up the steep bank.

 

[KsTeveM]

Dang brother, covered some good ground. Really jealous. But you are embarrassing me throwing my name around that much! And the tongs weren’t mine, that is a dead give away of a baluga rider carrying too much crap. I eat my steak right off the adjustafork!

Glad you are getting better at the picture taking. But a big thumbs down on that guzzi encounter!!!!! You’re missing the point of being your age, it’s no longer creepy, it’s cute. Look forward to you redeeming yourself somehow. Don’t let me down.

3 Step….that is a special place. Scott aka Dingweeds is one of the nicest men I’ve ever met. I will be back there at some point, too cool of a setup.

I’m going to look up those other campgrounds and get them marked on my master maps. I keep a library of cool stuff by state, thanks for mentioning specifics!

Are you pleased with the XRL…or would you go another way now that you have that seat time?

Last, here is a random pic just so my post is not empty. Me on a 1991 XT350 taken in 1993, Huachuca Mountains. I challenge you to post a pic of you on a bike the same year!

 

[TNC]

After 3 days of riding in the area I moved down to the Blanding area to ride Montezuma Creek area east of Blanding. When you go through this area on 191 it looks like nothing but flat sagebrush to the east. But at the 3-Step shindig I heard some guys talking about how neat some of that Montezuma Creek area was for riding. Man, it was extremely scenic. The parts of the road beside the creek were pretty easy, but the creek was up from snow melt, and I had to bypass and hit other sections of dirt roads to hit the creek again. One of these was called "Dead Man's Canyon". It was a steep descent with switchbacks and some sketchy sections of rock and loose dirt. I was pretty busy and didn't stop to take a pic. It was a beautiful canyon. Sorry Steve...it happened...LOL! This is an area heavy in Indian ruins and markings. In this one photo check out the carved out foot holds still visible in the rock of this granary ruin.

 

[TNC]

Well, it was time to head home at this point. I had 3 solid weeks being out with great weather and great riding conditions. Temps were consistenly in the mid-60's and mid-70's. Nights were cool for comfortable sleeping...no air BNB's for me like that Steve guy...the big softie. I took a leisurely trip home and spent an extra night out to avoid storms. The one pic of the "badlands" looking terrain is Angel Peak BLM area south of Bloomfield, NM. I've stayed there for overnighters coming and going. The second pic is back is Capitan BLM camping area. The last pic with all the sand is Monahans State Park which is only about 3.5 hours from my house. I stayed dry the whole way home with no thunderstorm drama...LOL! It was one of my favorite trips, and I think I finally have a handle on the XR for future trips.

Well that's it, Steve. I have met my assignment. Anyone not happy with the results can send their complaints to Steve via PM's or a note tied to a rock thrown through his window. I'll provide the address shortly.

 

[TNC]

Oh, almost forgot. Instead of food pics I said there would be a tequila shot...with a Ruby Red Grapefruit chaser of course. Don't hate me.

 

[TNC]

Dang brother, covered some good ground. Really jealous. But you are embarrassing me throwing my name around that much! And the tongs weren’t mine, that is a dead give away of a baluga rider carrying too much crap. I eat my steak right off the adjustafork!

Glad you are getting better at the picture taking. But a big thumbs down on that guzzi encounter!!!!! You’re missing the point of being your age, it’s no longer creepy, it’s cute. Look forward to you redeeming yourself somehow. Don’t let me down.

3 Step….that is a special place. Scott aka Dingweeds is one of the nicest men I’ve ever met. I will be back there at some point, too cool of a setup.

I’m going to look up those other campgrounds and get them marked on my master maps. I keep a library of cool stuff by state, thanks for mentioning specifics!

Are you pleased with the XRL…or would you go another way now that you have that seat time?

Last, here is a random pic just so my post is not empty. Me on a 1991 XT350 taken in 1993, Huachuca Mountains. I challenge you to post a pic of you on a bike the same year!

Now look here...I was on an Indian reservation. The young lady might have accused me of "mashing". It could end up being like that movie "Midnight Express" in a Turkish prison...plus, I still have my hair.

OK, I have a pic that meets your challenge, but it's a film print. Do you guys just take a phone pic of the film pic, or what?

Yeah, I think I have come to grips with the XR. It has its pluses and minuses compared to my very competent KLX300, but I think it's the bike I need at this point.

 

[Tourmeister]

Great report!

Years ago I suckered Rsquared into following me up Comb Wash Rd., from US 163 up to UT 95. It was DRY and DEEP! I was on my 2005 1200 GS with 50/50 tires. He was on his KTM 690 Enduro. I lost track of the number of times I thought I was going to lose the front end, but made it the whole way without dropping it. When we finally reached UT 95, I could smell the smell of burning silica from the sand that had worked its way into my brakes even though I never once touched the brakes! It took a while for that smell to fade...

 

[TNC]

Great report!

Years ago I suckered Rsquared into following me up Comb Wash Rd., from US 163 up to UT 95. It was DRY and DEEP! I was on my 2005 1200 GS with 50/50 tires. He was on his KTM 690 Enduro. I lost track of the number of times I thought I was going to lose the front end, but made it the whole way without dropping it. When we finally reached UT 95, I could smell the smell of burning silica from the sand that had worked its way into my brakes even though I never once touched the brakes! It took a while for that smell to fade...

I notice both Butler and Comb get a little sandier every visit which I feel is a result of increased, highly powerful UTV traffic. That said I think this is one area that the XR improved the ride over my KLX300. When the bike got squirrely in the sand, just giving it power made the bike stand up straight and go right where it was pointed. Now, that's not rocket science for most any dirt bike, but this XR inspired more confidence than most any dirt bike I've owned in squirrely, loose terrain. And I don't think it was power, as my XR is not heavily modified, and the XR's aren't that light. I think it has more to do with a different type of power pulse when you crack the throttle. That and the geometry still closely mimics the true desert XR600R, so that helps. I don't think this bike would be that much fun in the woods. I don't know how Scott Summers did so well on his XR's, but then he was a big fella.

 

[gixxerjasen]

KsTeveM has constantly berated me for telling some of my stories about trips and such with no pictures...and being pretty light on details on my stories. And let's face it...he enjoys lording it over the rest of us with his polished, highly entertaining ride reports, death defying ride locations, and Ansel Adams quality photos.

Seriously, his reports aren't THAT good. Plus, he always ruins it by inserting 3 or 4 selfies of his ugly mug, and he has no pictures of cute girls because they all run away when they see him coming. That's why he wants to see your pictures, to see proof that they'll actually talk to you.

Great report, that's a nice size toy hauler for one person to use staying out in the boonies, looks like luxury to me.

You got to do food pics at restaurants so the rest of us know where to eat!

I am new to loving Utah, looks like a good time, I need to get back out there on a motorcycle.

 

[misterk]

Great report, I will be at 3 step in about 3 weeks en route to Idahooo

 

[KsTeveM]

Seriously, his reports aren't THAT good. Plus, he always ruins it by inserting 3 or 4 selfies of his ugly mug, and he has no pictures of cute girls because they all run away when they see him coming. That's why he wants to see your pictures, to see proof that they'll actually talk to you.

True story. My reports are boring. Pics are photo shopped like MisterK said. The ugly selfies, that is after the enhanced photo shop work. And the chicas do run away, I thought it was the dual exhaust of the Super Enduro....