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Collapsed Air Filter - What Exactly Does That Mean?

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If a new filter does not solve the problem, I'm sure the shop will take what you paid for a diagnosis into consideration toward further diagnosis. I feel you got what you paid for at this point. Your education is not free. Would you have been happier if the shop had you replace a lot of unneeded parts to make you feel better? Paper filters are very efficient and trap even the smallest particles and can quickly clog in dirty air conditions. If the air intake is 12" above ground, that is poor engineering by Suzuki.

Paper filters are not designed to be cleaned but replaced although many people do try to clean them with some success. Just my $.02
 
Not familiar with that paper filter but most I see are white in color to start with,that one looks reddish under the black really looks like a dirty K&N. You stated you cleaned it several times you are not by any chance using the K&N filter oil on a paper filter are you after cleaning? If so I would imagine that would weaken the filter.

Paper filters I would only tap out, compressed air can cause small tears the pleats unless pressures are very low.

You stated the K&N was a pain to install? is it different in size or shape than the stock filter? perhaps someone got you one for a incorrect model year in the past that was close but not a perfect fit?

As for the comment of paying a shop $90 dollars to tell you it was a bad filter and the small claims court comment. Does your service ticket describe what the tech did? That is what you are paying for not the comment of someone who may not remember the specifics of one of many service tickets that run across his desk.

And if the filter is really that big of a pain, my guess is shop rate of 60 bucks an hour and 90 minutes from start to finish for a job you claim is a pain may be about right. How long does it take you from the time you pull the bike into a spot to change the filter until its ready to ride? And you have done it several times? It may have been that Tech's first Burgman service and he took extra time being careful and following each step by the book. Some do take time and pride in their work.

Hope you get it all figured out soon as you seem to enjoy riding your Bergman and dont need a parts issue killing that joy.

The K&N filters on my bike are exposed (pod filters right on the carbs) and see dust, rain and all kinds of roads and dont look that dirty in 15K miles.
 
ok this is odd, I looked up the Burgman on the K&N website and 2007- 2009 AN-400 burgman uses the SU-4007 factory drop in filter.
they do not make a filter for the 2009 AN-400Z burgman. what is the Z for?
 
The K&N does fit, but it's a very tight fit and could maybe use a bit of additional engineering, but try convincing R&D about that.

The opening is, as I stated earlier, facing down but not a direct line of site to the ground. I wish I had a pic to show - would make a lot more sense.

Also, if the problem doesn't fix itself, then it's back to the shop it goes over Christmas break.

Right now, just waiting on the filter to get here.

Even though patience is not my strong point, there is no other alternative, besides, it's always better to have your fact before you go and possibly make an *** out of yourself.
 
wanabeguru said:
Hmmmmmmm, I see a refund in your future or a small claims court action:trust: good luck!
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Cost $150 to file a claim, then you have your word against their factory allotted time for diags. Not a good bet, however if your inclined to toss good money after bad you well get some more education.:sun:
 
Sorry, I must have overlooked it. All better now. Honestly I'm surprised that the filter holds up to repeated washings. My OEM V-Strom filter didn't seem the type to even take a single wash before it would probably fall apart. So it's good to see that they are at least using better filters on the Burg's then on the Stroms.
 
flb_78 said:
My guess is that it is $90/hr, 1hr minimum for diagnostics. The 1hr minimum is pretty much standard across any dealership, motorbike, auto, semi.
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Just making a guess as I have not used a dealer for service work since I was a teen and it was part of my MX package with the dealer, I split it with them and I believe we paid them $10 an hour then and my dad explained to me that if this was going to be a hobby I needed to learn to do this myself or get a job that would pay for my play. So I did service work(oil & tire changes) and bike setup as an apprentice to cover my shop fees until I could handle my own work.

Pretty much have been doing 90% of all my mechanical and bodywork since then on my motorcycles and autos
 
Man, looking at that link Burgman filters get nasty yours is not the exception looks like his came amazing clean with a soap and water bath must be a good grade of filter to not come apart

I would be looking into re-routing the intake air if at all possible
 
I usually do all my own service work, however, I don't have the computer software or hardware to totally connect to the ECM and download the data - the best I've got is a toggle switch attachment that plugs in to a download port under the dash and it's only to read the trouble code when the FI light goes off.

Comedy of errors - maybe, but so far, I'm not laughing and I'm NOT crying either. I figure I'll get the new filter, get it in, see what happens and go from there. Be positive - be positive!

I'm wondering if this thread has taken a life of its own.

I usually don't ride on the weekends anyway so it's no big loss, and with this 20 - 30 mph NNW wind whipping around today and the temps in the low 30s to mid 40s - I can wait a few days. Don't get me wrong, I ride 12 months a year (don't do ice/rain if I can help it) - heat, cold, wind, idiot cell phone users/texters - but the weekends I usually don't ride - don't have much of anywhere to go.
 
Some bike engines hav a drain line from airbox/carb&/or FI throttle body area. Does yours? If so, when was last time you pulled plug out and drained it? The drain plastic tubing usually hangs below bottom of motor and has clip/cap on/in it. Just my .02 good luck!
 
wanabeguru said:
Some bike engines hav a drain line from airbox/carb&/or FI throttle body area. Does yours? If so, when was last time you pulled plug out and drained it? The drain plastic tubing usually hangs below bottom of motor and has clip/cap on/in it. Just my .02 good luck!
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Yes, there is a tube, but I looked at it yesterday (?) and it was good.

Besides, all the gunk is on the TOP of the filter, not on the bottom, which says to me that it has to be drawn in from the intake side.

FWIW, the filter color is an orange or pink/orange color - not white.
 
What did the K&N cost and what is the stock cost? How long does it take to pull it and replace it? If your filter is getting that dirty in 11K then the K&N looks like a great idea. I always cleaned my K&Ns with Simple Green, cuts the oil and works quickly. I have been looking at scooters for the commute. The 400s due to hiway speeds versus economy. My 1200 is getting 35 to 40 on the toll road with its 75 MPH speed limit. The 650 scooter are only getting 50 or so.
 
It will probably take a bit longer to replace the actual filter the first time - there is a bit of a trick to it. The cost is about the same - base product wise. Factor in the cleaning supplies and the total costs still go down.

As far as the 400 is concerned, I've done all of the lower 48, Canada and Mexico by way of the interstate system (old 400). I've also gone from Badwater Basin in Death Valley up to Mt. Evans, etc. (new 400).

I don't drive much above 65 indicated because when you get much above 6K RPMs the mileage starts going down. I've gotten anywhere from the low 60s and upward - with luggage.

I usually get around the mid-50s in the winter, but then my commute is only about 5 miles.

BTW, the 400 has a larger trunk than the 650.
 
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