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Heaven in Tennessee

I've been told that bald peaks in the Smokies are caused by a lack of water. The soils are too thin to hold much water, and the terrain is sloped so that rain runs off quickly.
I suspect a combination of factors affect vegetation growth at the summits. I've seen shrubs grow in places you wouldn't think anything could grow.
There was such a bald summit on a peak in Maine where a fire tower was. I filled in as a ranger there half a summer and I just loved the grassy meadow at the bottom of the tower. It was also great fun to watch life below the tower. Bears, deer, moose and all kinds of critter came up there, sometimes to just lay and sun for an hour or two.
I loved those two months.
 
Zen Trail


This entire trip to Tennessee has been so wonderful. In so many ways. The roads -paved, dirt, gravel, grass,whatever- the landscapes, the weather, the bikes, the people.... all of it. But the experiences that keep surfacing over and over, again and again, are the single-track trail and the next forest road, the last two 'roads'. The trail doesn't really qualify as a 'road'; it is a 'trail'. Nevertheless, it is a surface to ride on. And in so many ways, this was the sweetest. It was my Zen Road.

Let the story continue........


At the junction of CR198 (Buck Bald Rd) and CR311 we stopped again on the gravel to check the map. This time we were searching for a single-track trail, #82. Looking around I noticed a trail parallel to CR198 going through the woods that resembled those I used to wander on in Maine: a four-foot wide seam cutting through the dense forest. Brown fallen leaves covered most of the ground with gray dirt floor showing through and roots cropping up here and there. A path often created by deer or other critters.


At the head next to the road was a marker sporting "82". But it was in the wrong direction. We were heading south. I looked behind me to see a similar trail with no marker. So where do we go?

Scrutinizing the map again we saw Trail 11371 began at the south edge of CR198. Further down this trail was a 'Y' where 11371 veered right and 82 began again. So all we had to do was watch for that 'Y' and hopefully a sign.

We left gravel and rode into the trees on the quiet single-track trail. It was awesome. Big roots or branches ahead, pick line, stand on pegs and lead the front wheel, let it do its thing, sit back down and grin. A few times I wondered if the handlebar with mirrors would fit between two trees. After I barely made it through a pair of trees straddling the trail I pulled my mirrors in towards the middle. Much better.


I had turned the helmet cam on before we embarked on the trail and I was hoping it would catch the essence the trail opened up to me. I tried to avoid turning my head to the right, but I had to keep an eye out for the trail as it veered to the right.

Ed was up ahead for quite a distance but I didn't feel rushed to catch up. I was enjoying this too much. The sewing-machine sound of my Sherpa on the trail was muffled and it assumed a musical accompaniment of sorts. Just like my Whee sings on the highway, this engine was singing on the trail.

I caught in my peripheral vision what appeared a narrow trail veering off to the right and into the woods. That was truly a critter trail. It was so narrow I wondered if my bike would make it through without interference from brush and trees. And I immediately questioned in my mind if that was 11371. I rolled the throttle open to catch up with Ed and yelled out. He didn't hear me so I used the next attention-getter: the horn.

Ed stopped up ahead and I rode up to him with that familiar question: "Where are we?". I wanted to confirm that we were indeed on trail 82. We had ridden far more than my calculation expected us to meet the 'Y' shown on the map. Consulting the map again, I mentioned the narrow trail I observed to the right and we both agreed that was probably 11371 continuing on. It was a foot trail only, which may be why it was so narrow, but there were no signs that anyone has walked on it at least this season.

As we continued on I was occasionally slapped in the face with low-hung branches. I'm glad I wore the goggles and by then I was well used to them. As I came around a corner I spied a large tree that had fallen across the trail. The bottom of it was still hung up on one side, the other side touching the ground. I stopped to evaluate this after an "Oh ****!" exclamation and I caught Ed finish wheeling his bike under the gap between the tree and the ground next to the bank. The bikes had to be leaned over far enough to get under. Leaned far.

Well, this would be a challenge and fun. Approaching the far side next to the bank I leaned the bike to the right and balanced myself with my feet. While tilting the bike to the right I also leaned over and carefully feathered the throttle. I had to duck my head to make it under, but the bike and I inched forward without any problem and a big smile was plastered on my face on the other side. We made it!!! Woohoo!! (on the video everything ahead tilts as I am going underneath the tree with the bike)


I rode ahead a bit more briskly and with a grin and puffed chest. Another hurdle crossed! On we rode until we came to a grassy section down the hill. Beyond and through the trees I could see pavement: Highway 68.


We pulled up to the pavement slowly and cautiously exited the trail onto the pavement; we were on the apex of a curve and oncoming traffic was blind from both directions. Quick looks to the left, right, gun it.

I hated to leave that trail; I loved riding on it.

Next: My Sweet Road
 
68 rocks... Oh yes it does... :rider:
Agreed.

I finished off the cam card heading back to Tellico Plains on 68 from south of Turtletown. The sweepers were just awesome and the road surface supreme! Unfortunately the cam was not positioned well on the helmet and most of the scene is of that squiggly white line on the right :) Regardless, its cool to see how the view changes during the leans side to side.

Next year I'm taking two cards, lots of batteries and will have the cam positioning mastered.
 
Sweet Road


Riding south again on Hwy 68 we crossed the Hiwassee River and under a railroad trestle. Hardly any other vehicles were on the highway and it was as if it was our own paved road. Because I'm a water nymph at heart I stopped to photograph the river; the colored foliage complemented the green water and gray-blue sky. Lighting was perfect that day for photographs, unlike the previous days with blaring sunlight. Bright blue skies always feel good but slightly overcast days allow colors to do their magical dance.




From my earlier days of photography and under the tutelage of my father and ex-husband, both accomplished photographers, I learned to shoot with black and white film. Colors are wonderful, but another world exists between black and white. Ansel Adams was the great progenitor of that world in nature. Going digital with black and white is still mostly experimental for me. Although I can see an image in my mind translated to black and white, the final product has many degrees of variation. What it does do is allow one to focus on contrast, texture and form. And my favorite; shadows.


Resuming our route south, we found our next reference point: Turtletown. Was the town swamped or invaded with turtles in the past? I'm stricken with a curiosity of how towns (and landmarks) with odd names acquired them. I didn't see any turtles, but we did find our next turnoff. Stopping again to refer to the map, we also realized, again, that we were running out of time. I hate it when that happens. Perhaps because it occurs too many times.

Again we would have to modify our original route we had based on Python's recommendations. There wasn't enough daylight left. Placated with the knowledge that I would ride Python's route next time I was there, we chose a different forest road based on how squiggly it was on the map and where it ended. The chosen road was to be one of the best.

Riding north on Old Farmer Road (CR 2317) we turned left on McFarland Rd (FR 23). After a while we turned south Ditney Mountain Rd (FR 66) and left again on FR 68. Not to be confused with state highway 68, which itself is a sweet road to ride. But this forest road bearing the same number was absolutely marvelous.

This was the last leg of the day, of the entire trip. And riding FR 68 topped it off so nicely that I knew with beyond any doubt that I had to return. I had to ride this road again. And I will.

Ed sped along the gravel like a sprinting pony; I was an ambling old quarter horse. Everything was so reminiscent of Maine: the drop-off on one edge of the road, dark brown and black ledge on the other. Tall skinny trees competing for sunlight in the crowded canopies, rhododendrons and mountain laurel cascading over the ledges or nestled in clumps between tree trunks. The clicking of my Sherpa engine chorused with that of crickets, and birds chattered here and there.






And the scents.....oh, the smells of damp musty earth, tree resin, mushrooms,rotting leaves, and subtle rabbit or deer scent. It was all magical; as if I was caught in some time warp between decades ago when I spent years wandering and working in the Maine woods and now, here in Tennessee.

Like most of the roads here they had multiple names. This section of the road was also called Horseshoe Bend, and rightly so. The sweepers were fantastic but this bend was magnificent.




I had to stop. I had to just let myself take this all in. Gone were the offensive noises of cars and equipment, cackling voices of people that never really say anything, cell phones glued to ears ringing incessantly, and the buzz of human civilization. The habitat of drones. Here there was only the comforting clicking hum of my bike and the soothing sounds of the forests. This was my home. One of many homes that I have.

And I didn't want to leave.

Here again was that voice, the same one I heard as I was riding the Whee-strom out of the mountains and forests of New Mexico, the canyons of southern Utah, the desert of Big Bend.
"Don't leave us."

But I will be back.


We rode back to Hunt's Lodge on Hwy 68, this time like spirited racing mustangs on the wind. I scooted back on the Sherpa's seat and leaned forward over the tank, squeezed the engine between my legs and let my body become one with the bike: lean, swoop, run. Nothing else mattered then, no time existed; just the joy of the ride on this meandering black road. I rode it like the back of a winding snake as we cut through the wind.
Plain and simple: it rocked.

Back at camp, I was tired and wanted a shower. It all felt good, inside and out.

Wiley had fun, too.


To be continued....next June.
:rider: :mrgreen:
 
Great story, Elzi. Ironic that I was up there the same week as you in Tellico Plains and we didn't cross paths. My group stayed at the KOA at night and had breakfast at the bakery in town and were out on the road every morning so that maybe why I didn't see you. I probably wouldn't have recognized you on the sherpa anyways.

I have two pics of the bald river falls, one from Wednesday afternoon and one from Thursday afternoon. We got rain Thursday morning so there is a huge change between the two. Kinda neat.

I love your pictures and I am already wanting to go back out there it was so beautiful and so much fun. A motorcyclist's dream.
 
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