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Hi, My Name Is Squeaky...

Scott, the knob on the V-strom rear with the 'clicks' is the preload, or so I've been told my umteen people. The damping is a small adjustment under the rear seat requiring a screw driver.

Yes, that is correct. On the V-Strom shock they have a hydraulic preload adjuster that compresses the shock spring. And it does click when you turn it. And the rebound damper adjustment is on the lower portion of the shock itself IIRC. If you look at the cable that attaches the big knob to the shock you'll see that is actually connects to a collar at the top of the shock that forces the spring to get tighter and looser.

What part of Scott's suspension advice was confusing? Just the clicking part?
 
What is the typical cost of a track day?

Typical, top-of-my-head costs are:

* $100 (Ridesmart Cresson, includes class) - $160 (LSTD Texas World)
* Gas to get there
* Gas for your bike (don't forget this ;-))
* $70-100 for a hotel room if you neither camp nor get to the track the morning of the event

So, at minimum, figure $140-$300 per event.

If you want rental leathers, boots, lap timer, or classroom at LSTD, it costs more ($25-50 per item, more for leathers, I think).

If you need tires, it costs more.

If you want your own leathers, it costs more.

If you crash, it costs more. :brainsnap

If you have an awesome time and decide to get a dedicated track bike, it costs more. :wave:

Hope that helps.
 
What is the typical cost of a track day?
My day with EuroSport cycle's private day was $225 including the class. I know it was way more then RS or LSTD.

Course now I've gotta include the cost of the addiction :trust:
 
Scott, the knob on the V-strom rear with the 'clicks' is the preload, or so I've been told my umteen people. The damping is a small adjustment under the rear seat requiring a screw driver.

Thus, your suspension explanation confuses me.

I've thought for some time that a day workshop in 'Suspension 101' would be very enlightening. Hands-on, real time.
Thoughts?

:tab Well, I did not go into all the variations of how the different brands handle the actual mechanics of their adjustments ;-) Many rear shocks do in fact have a small piece on the bottom of the shock that you turn with a flat head screw driver. It does not click as you turn it. Most people advise to turn it only in 1/2 turn increments. This is usually a combined compression/rebound adjustment. The Ohlins rear shocks that I have had actually have little round rotating discs that click to each position, but had separate adjustments for both compression and rebound. Both methods of adjusting do the same thing though. If there is a big knob for adjusting preload, this is what I was referring to as the remote adjustment. Turning the knob simply turns a cable that goes back to the shock and adjusts the preload collar. It accomplishes the same thing as using a spanner wrench on a collar with the stepped notches but it has a finer adjustment instead of the steps. When you use the spanner wrench, as the collar falls into the next position, it will often snap or click as it pops into place.

:tab I'd have no problem hosting a suspension setup day. We have a few bumpy and a few smooth roads nearby so folks could go out and test ride the changes. It only takes basic tools. Getting your bike setup right, even on cheap stock suspension, can really change the way your bike feels!
 
:tab Well, I did not go into all the variations of how the different brands handle the actual mechanics of their adjustments ;-) Many rear shocks do in fact have a small piece on the bottom of the shock that you turn with a flat head screw driver. It does not click as you turn it. Most people advise to turn it only in 1/2 turn increments. This is usually a combined compression/rebound adjustment. The Ohlins rear shocks that I have had actually have little round rotating discs that click to each position, but had separate adjustments for both compression and rebound. Both methods of adjusting do the same thing though. If there is a big knob for adjusting preload, this is what I was referring to as the remote adjustment. Turning the knob simply turns a cable that goes back to the shock and adjusts the preload collar. It accomplishes the same thing as using a spanner wrench on a collar with the stepped notches but it has a finer adjustment instead of the steps. When you use the spanner wrench, as the collar falls into the next position, it will often snap or click as it pops into place.

:tab I'd have no problem hosting a suspension setup day. We have a few bumpy and a few smooth roads nearby so folks could go out and test ride the changes. It only takes basic tools. Getting your bike setup right, even on cheap stock suspension, can really change the way your bike feels!

I can help if need be, I have some experiance setting up a few race bikes as well as general mechanics.
Basic info is this,
the Big spring in the shock needs to be set for the "pre-load" What your bike drops when you sit on it.
Damping controls how "fast" your shock compresses when you hit a bump.
Rebound controls how fast your shock "reacts" to the bump you just hit.

Most stock shocks are woefully incapable in the damping and compression area's this is why they seem to wallow and squat in turns.

With the proper suspension set-up your bike will feel like brand new. But better, and able to make you feel MUCH more planted and smooth in corners both on the street and track.
 
With the proper suspension set-up your bike will feel like brand new. But better, and able to make you feel MUCH more planted and smooth in corners both on the street and track.

:tab I recall that for a long time, I rode my VFR's and could not understand why everyone made such a big deal about suspension upgrades. Given the cost of many rear shocks, I put it off for a long time. After about 30K miles on the VFR, I finally decided to give it a shot. I got a good deal on the work and that helped. Afterwards, I could not believe the difference in how the bike felt. As mentioned by jettech01, the bike felt planted, almost glued to the road. I had an instant jump in confidence on the bike when cornering. It only got better as I learned to feel what was happening and fine tuned the settings. I even had it figured out so that when I rode two up, I knew what adjustments needed to be made to keep things in the sweet spot. It made for some fantastic rides!! I would now spend the money on suspension upgrades before considering things like a power commander, exhaust, etc,...
 
A quick response before I go catch the train (and a nap...):
I suspect many riders on this forum would be interested in a Suspension 101 workshop/day. I've thought about it for long time and even considered a local one and inviting Cliff Piper or someone like him who knows/changes/replaces/modifies suspension with diverse bikes, and he used to be a competitive racer. I haven't mentioned it to him, but I can if folks are interested.

Or other options? Sometime in July or August?

I agree with test riding with different suspension adjustments. Start from low and work up, test it out to know how each feels. I did a bit of this on my own with the strom until I couldn't put even one foot on the ground :eek2: The differences are amazing.

If you'd like, I can start a new thread: where should it go?
 
I discovered another use for hanging body parts off the side of a bike.

Rode home W on I-820 with really strong gusty southerly winds wanting to push me over.
Hmmm..... thinking about things in a few milliseconds.... I moved my weight over to the right of the bike's centerline, right rear butt cheek nearly hanging off seat, pushing down through right peg, upper body leaned forward and completely right off the center line and......... no pushy over at all.
Very cool.
Way.
 
Yes, that is correct. On the V-Strom shock they have a hydraulic preload adjuster that compresses the shock spring. And it does click when you turn it. And the rebound damper adjustment is on the lower portion of the shock itself IIRC. If you look at the cable that attaches the big knob to the shock you'll see that is actually connects to a collar at the top of the shock that forces the spring to get tighter and looser.

What part of Scott's suspension advice was confusing? Just the clicking part?
No, got that down pat; even have it marked with a marker :)

I was confused about the knob being the damping, but was always told that it was the preload. Which I am fiddling with all the time depending on load and road.

(hey, that rhymed )
 
If you have an awesome time and decide to get a dedicated track bike, it costs more.
Course now I've gotta include the cost of the addiction .

I should have known the answer to "How much does it cost?" was going to be "lots, but you won't be able to stop yourself." It sounds like fun. I wonder how the Bandit would handle on a track...:rider:
 
Oh, and since I'm a geek, I set the GPS to log my spot on the track every five seconds for the last four sessions, and I came up with this:


It's cool to see the layout, but it's even cooler that I can go through it and figure out that my lap times averaged around 2:40 (slow, but safe!) and I can see what speeds I hit in what sections of the track. If I do it again, I'll set it for one second intervals to get a better idea of my lines through continuous laps.

You are such a geek Squeek, but from one GPS-geek to another, that is very cool!
 
You are such a geek Squeek, but from one GPS-geek to another, that is very cool!

I can't decide which to recommend you take to the track - the Husky with street tires or the MS as is... :ponder:

You could bring both and we'll swap off! :rider:
 
I can't decide which to recommend you take to the track - the Husky with street tires or the MS as is... :ponder:

You could bring both and we'll swap off! :rider:

You know my bikes are your bikes Squeek (as, apparently, everyone elses bikes are too:eek2: )! The MTS has seen the track a number of times and does very well, in the corners at least.

When you buy me pizza next I'll tell you about the new (used) track bike we now own...:rider:
 
No, got that down pat; even have it marked with a marker :)

I was confused about the knob being the damping, but was always told that it was the preload. Which I am fiddling with all the time depending on load and road.

(hey, that rhymed )

:tab The big round knob you often see on the side of a bike behind the rider foot peg or somewhere nearby is typically the remote preload adjuster. Generally, if there is only one damping adjustment on a rear shock, it is a combined compression/rebound adjustment. It might be the screw thing like you mentioned or a round disc on the bottom of the shock that you rotate and that generally clicks for each increment. If the compression and rebound are adjustable independent of each other, the compression will often be on a remote reservoir and the rebound on the bottom of the shock. Really, all that matters is you understand what each one does. Finding out how to adjust it is just a matter of reading the user manual for the bike or after market shock ;-)
 
I wonder how the Bandit would handle on a track...:rider:
I'm sure it'd do just fine. folks were riding Triumph Tiger's, BMW GS's, Kwak Connie's and KTMs at the track so I don't see why the Bandit wouldn't do fine :rider:
 
I'd love to have Mr. Piper learn me on suspension setup. If you set it up, they (and I) will come. :thumb:
 
Hi!

Over here!

:rider:

Yeah, it's me. More pics are in from the track photog so I thought I'd steer this bus back to the station... :thumb:

Here's my faves:

160660771-M.jpg


Heading into the launch
160660769-M.jpg


Gettin' the beast over
160660765-M.jpg


Knee ain't happenin, but I'm stretching...
160660761-M.jpg


160660759-M.jpg


They DO need to cut the grass back there - I made sparks!
160660756-M.jpg


(ok, so they're teeny tiny sparks but I left a mark on the pavement!)
160660755-M.jpg
 
:rider: Way cool pics!:clap: I'd bet a bit on that under the darth squeaky visor is a HUGE GRIN!!!
 
:rider: Way cool pics!:clap: I'd bet a bit on that under the darth squeaky visor is a HUGE GRIN!!!

Huge grin AND me talking to myself.
They had cones set up at all the apexes - connect the cones to get around the track with the most productive lines. I was really getting into it and I was also keeping track of my gears. I'd say them to myself, "two, three, four...three, turn, down, turn, go"

It's amazing how the sequence of a set of turns is coming back to me even now, replaying in my head.

Yeah, when's the next Track Riders Anonymous meeting? :shrug:
 
160660759-M.jpg


Man, I wish I had a similar picture of when you first started riding to compare the difference!! :thumb:
 
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