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JB weld to fix gas tank leak?

I've used JB Weld for that purpose. First time it held about 3 months. Since redoing it, it has held for more than a year.
 
I would find someone that can fix it proper. JB Weld is a hit or miss in these applications and only a temporary fix. If it is a mounting bracket, it will eventually crack and leak, usually at the worst possible time.
 
the biggest problem for me with JB Weld is the surface prep so it won't come off. If you just need to seal the seam and you're not worried about strengthening the structure, look for a product called "Seal-All" (advance auto parts sells it for sure). I used that on a 1980 DR500 metal gas tank with visible holes from being left to rust behind a house for 15 years. Just slathered all over the holes. It held for over a year, until I got rid of the bike. I also repaired an accelerator pump diaphragm with it. I replaced the diaphragm in short order, but it held for the day.
 
There is also a product called tank Kreem that is a two part epoxy that you mix up and then pour inside the tank, swill the tank around so the kreem coats the entire inside of the tank and it then sets, creating an epoxy liner inside the tank.. I have heard of good results in steel tanks, but poor adhesion to plastic tanks.. Just another option.

Gary
 
Tried JBW to stop a leak on the KLR tank,JBW stayed in palce for about week. Stop the leak for about 2 hours. It is all in the prep-ing of the surfaces, go with sealing from the inside or the easiest options is buy a new tank (which I did - was a great reason to buy an oversized tank) :rider:.
 
My old NX has a tank leak that I have fixed three times. There is a pinhole from rust-through. Each time I prepped my draining the tank and letting and residual fuel evaporate, removing all the paint (or old filler) and cleaning up with rubbing alcohol.
The first time I used JB weld and it held about 6 months. I found a full tank of fuel in a puddle under the bike one morning.
The second time I used Permatex 12020 Instant Gas Tank Repair and it held for about 6 months. I was about 15 miles from home and my leg was getting wet as I was riding down the road. I stuck my finger in (over) the dyke to stop the flood and made it home fine.
The third time I cleaned it up even better than before, if that were possible. The I used a 1/4 drive self-tapping sheet metal screw, an o-ring from some old carb kit, and my trusty cordless drill.

One year later and I have had no problems.
 
On Lieka or on the ugly one?


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Any radiator shop in town can braze it up in short order.

I would also recommend a more permanent repair, if the leak is along a bracket joint then most likely it was caused by metal fatigue and any hard nonflexible material used to repaire it will most likely just crack again. This has been my experience with these products in the past. When dealing with gas I would take the safer route with a permanent repair, a fire on a bike is not a pretty site, just my opinion.
 
I fixed a pinhole leak on my 85 K100RT with JB weld that held for years and is probably fine to this day, sold the bike. I sanded the area, screwed a sheet metal screw in and put JB Weld over that.
 
Thanks all for the suggestions.

I'm going to try cheap repairs first, because I am cheap. If I end up going down in flames, at least my epitaph can say "here lies one cheap crispy critter"

I'm going to start with JB weld covered with some fiberglass repair material and see how that holds.

I'll let you know if it works.
 
Flaming cheap-ka-Bob... Bob-B-Q... i(ncendiary)Bob...

Hey! This is fun!

I hope the fix works because names are fun to imagine but the fire show isn't. :lol2:
 
I doubt you can make a permanent repair just working from the outside.

This stuff comes highly recommended in the restoration community:

http://www.eastwood.com/por-15-cycle-fuel-tank-repair-kit.html

Kit contains cleaner, prep wash, and sealer to patch leak from outside and coat inside of tank. It's important to follow instructions to the letter, especially drying the tank thoroughly before pouring in the sealer. About a 4-6 hour process.
 
Any radiator shop in town can braze it up in short order.

I am surprised a radiator shop would touch it. I wan into issues with getting someone to cut on my vulcans tank to increase capacity. No one wanted to touch it because of the left over fuel vapor. I finally gave up. I didn't want to take it to a proper bike shop and pay 300-500 for the mod.

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& the quest goes on...

guess we'll find out who was right, on friday evening...

shiny side up(carry a fyre extinguisher a camera)
 
I searched all over wacko Waco yesterday and could not find anyplace that sold any kind of tank sealer (inside stuff).

Any suggestions.

- Bob the bomb

Order online or a custom bike shop and see if they have some to spare. You could also try aviation supply, but most of those are more of a paste type.

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