Great job Richard!
Going to get me one of those!
Going to get me one of those!
Looks like the perfect "Richard" set up. Congrats.
Tourmeister said:As much as I would like a newer 500, the reality is that I will probably be keeping the 530 for a long time. So I might as well get it fixed right, besides I'd want it fixed right just in case I had to sell it if a smoking deal on a 500 fell in my lap
Then I expect more cool pics from your rides
So the next item I want to address on my 530 is the clutch. It is a hydraulic clutch. The friction zone is TINY. It goes from no grab to 100% grab with very little lever travel. This makes it hard to do any low speed stuff, especially starting from a stop under less than ideal conditions. Conceptually, I understand how a clutch works. That said, I have never cracked open a case and actually messed with one. I don't have any idea if there is something I might need to simply adjust or if I should be inspecting for wear and potential replacement. Also, I want to inspect the kick start mechanism. Sometimes it feels like the gears "jump" when I push on the lever and it isn't engaging. So I figure I'll get in there and check it all at once while I have it apart.
As much as I would like a newer 500, the reality is that I will probably be keeping the 530 for a long time. So I might as well get it fixed right, besides I'd want it fixed right just in case I had to sell it if a smoking deal on a 500 fell in my lap
Anyone got a link to a good video or write up that shows how to get into the clutch, inspect it, adjust it, what to replace, etc,... and /or how to check the kick starter?
The lever pull effort is not really an issue unless I am doing a ride where I am just constantly changing gears all day long. The engage point is about midway between the full out position and full pull (which is not quite to the bar). When I ease the clutch out, there is nothing nothing nothing then GRAB! There is no "feathering" or partial clutching. It's just kind of all or nothing. It makes starting from a stop kind of interesting sometimes. I CAN feather the clutch, but I have to REALLY focus on super small movements of the lever to make it happen. I did not used to be that way when I first got the bike.
My manual says to use Dot 4/5.1 fluid for the clutch. Level in the reservoir is fine. Is is possible that air in the line would cause the behavior I describe? I've not bled the clutch in a long time. Even then, I bled it backward because I did not realize you had to bleed them from the bottom up
It is possible there may be some dragging. The bike is noticeably easier to move in neutral than it is in first gear with the clutch lever pulled in all the way. It is also easier to start in neutral than in gear with the level pulled in all way.
While you are in there check the clutch basket for wear where the friction plates touch. If the clutch basket has notches from wear, this prevents the plates from sliding smoothly and can cause abrupt engagement like you are experiencing.
I've never had this problem with KTMs, but have with others. You do not need to replace the hub, just file the ears smooth.
Any special tools required?
Do I need to replace the gasket between the cover and the case?
Any "gotchas" I need to worry about, like say a spring or two that might launch across the garage into limbo...?
What happens when you don't pay attention to the roadbook.
SAVED for the front page rotation
Boom. I just got back to KTM.
No special tools needed, unless you actually have to remove the clutch hub nut. I use an air impact for that. Otherwise you need something to hold the clutch basket/hub assembly while you loosen the big hub nut. Just to inspect everything you should not need anything special except for digital calipers to measure the plate thickness of the steel and fiber plates.
I will look here in a minute at the parts diagram for your bike, but the only gotcha would be if you have different thicknesses of plates. If that is the case, they need to go in a certain order usually, but the manual will specify that.
Other that that, take your time and just take out the plates and place them so they go back in the same order. Take pictures, report back.
Edit: I looked at the KTM factory parts diagram for your clutch. You do have one different fiber disc that you need to keep track of and put it back in the same spot. The steel discs are all the same, so you are good there. One more thing after looking at the diagram--your clutch has what KTM calls a "spring" that goes between the clutch hub and the first clutch plate (part #6 in the KTM diagram for the clutch on a 530). It will be the last thing you take out of the entire assembly and the first thing you put back. I have seen those springs wear a groove into the clutch plate that it rides up against. When this happens, it can cause abrupt clutch engagement. So take a close look at that.
Here is a link to your clutch parts diagram.
http://www.ktmpartspro.com/oemparts/a/ktm/524b9637f8700231ac499b64/clutch