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KLR650 Thread

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Bledsoe76 said:
Just noticed my clutch handle has about 3/4 an inch of play before engaging. Is this normal during break in? Does it need to be adjusted to get rid of the play?
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It seems a little excessive to me but it can most certainly happen as things kind of settle in. I would just adjust that freeplay out until you have it just right. I bet there is a prescribed amount in the service manual but I have always set the freeplay somewhere between a skosk and a tad. 😉
 
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Also double check for fraying. I have had some premature failures on new cables before.
 
I noticed the other day that the valve cover gasket I just installed was leaking. When we did the valve adjustment, I bought a new gasket and cleaned everything really well hoping I would not have to use RTV. Well that was short lived so my son and I pulled it last night and cleaned it up and applied a thin layer of RTV on the bottom side. I then torqued the bolts to spec (8 N-M) and left it. I double checked the torque today and they all clicked as expected. Am I missing anything or do I put it back together, ride and hope for the best. I really hate sealing gaskets. And I really hate RTV.
 
ntklr650 said:
I noticed the other day that the valve cover gasket I just installed was leaking. When we did the valve adjustment, I bought a new gasket and cleaned everything really well hoping I would not have to use RTV. Well that was short lived so my son and I pulled it last night and cleaned it up and applied a thin layer of RTV on the bottom side. I then torqued the bolts to spec (8 N-M) and left it. I double checked the torque today and they all clicked as expected. Am I missing anything or do I put it back together, ride and hope for the best. I really hate sealing gaskets. And I really hate RTV.
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Sounds ok, I think my Clymer says a smack of RTV on the left (shifter) side under the humps. You should be good. Not over torquing is also good! 😊
 
The oil was leaking at the front semicircle a little but mostly at the front side edge closest to the radiator. Hopefully it will hold and I don't have to mess with it for awhile. I'm tired of not riding this bike.
 
My headlight/taillight fuse has been burning out occasionally so I pulled the seat and started testing. Found a bad ground on the taillamp housing, and some banged up connections to the taillight and LP light. Repaired the banged up connections first, and was still getting intermittent failure and that led me to the bad ground. Kawasaki has a teeny tiny spotweld holding a sheetmetal wire connector that is external to the housing, and runs beside the hot and brake wires to the harness. Mebbe 5 years ago, this little spotweld failed and I used a microtorch and some solder and got it to stick but the connector was ruined to reuse again, so I decided to take a chance and use my little miller miggy to put a more substantial ground attachment on it. Not a beautiful weld but got it back together and everything works. Hope this repair holds
for another 5 years at least!!

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So I’m closing in on 111K, the electrical repair detailed above (post #1209) has held nicely so far. Ridden some rough roads in the last month or so, no blown light fuses, everything works. Success is NOT guaranteed with an intermittent electrical failure! 👍🏻😎
 
camel-adv.com

KLR650 1 Finger Clutch

Our KTM 790ADV and Yamaha T7 1 Finger Clutch kits have been some of our best-selling products. We've been swamped with requests for a similar kit for the most popular adventure bike in history, the Kawasaki KLR 650! Unlike the KTM 790 and Yamaha T7, the KLR's clutch arm is welded to the clutch...
camel-adv.com camel-adv.com

I just put this on the 22 KLR and man what a difference. The stock clutch pull is not really a problem but it now feels even better, almost like a hydraulic clutch. Where it shines is the friction zone. Fairly inexpensive and easy install with a good install video. Doubles the length of the clutch arm which increases the mechanical advantage of the pull. The claim is:
  • Clutch pull is reduced by 20-30%
  • The clutch friction zone is widened by 50%
  • Reduced arm pump
  • Easier modulation of clutch for offroad riding
  • Reduced hand fatigue in stop-and-go traffic
  • Quick and easy install
  • Confirmed fit on Gen 2 and 3 (2008-current) KLR 650s.
 
16KLRHOBO said:
camel-adv.com

KLR650 1 Finger Clutch

Our KTM 790ADV and Yamaha T7 1 Finger Clutch kits have been some of our best-selling products. We've been swamped with requests for a similar kit for the most popular adventure bike in history, the Kawasaki KLR 650! Unlike the KTM 790 and Yamaha T7, the KLR's clutch arm is welded to the clutch...
camel-adv.com camel-adv.com

I just put this on the 22 KLR and man what a difference. The stock clutch pull is not really a problem but it now feels even better, almost like a hydraulic clutch. Where it shines is the friction zone. Fairly inexpensive and easy install with a good install video. Doubles the length of the clutch arm which increases the mechanical advantage of the pull. The claim is:
  • Clutch pull is reduced by 20-30%
  • The clutch friction zone is widened by 50%
  • Reduced arm pump
  • Easier modulation of clutch for offroad riding
  • Reduced hand fatigue in stop-and-go traffic
  • Quick and easy install
  • Confirmed fit on Gen 2 and 3 (2008-current) KLR 650s.
Click to expand...
Does it shorten the clutch lever or just reduce the pull force? Looks like a cool upgrade.
 
It just reduces the force and increases the friction zone. Clutch adjustment for free play stays the same. The friction zone improvement is the best part. But with the lighter pull I've heard about folks putting on shorter levers.
 
Hello again everyone. Time for aanother oil change and I kept seeing klr owners talking about Rotella oil. I can get it everywhere out here in the sticks and was curious about it. It shows it as a diesel oil. Is this the right stuff? Planning on going with T6 synthetic 15w 40.
 
Yeah, that's the stuff. The diesel oil has higher zinc content, which seems to work well on the old KLR. I never used the synthetic on mine, just conventional.
 
I have tried T6 and was not happy with the longevity. I would get a lot of valve noise after 1500 miles where as regular motorcycle oil from AutoZone was good for about 3000. Some love it and sweat by it. Can't hurt to give it a try and see what you think.
 
I run the Rotella diesel oil in three of the four bikes. The Scooter runs the Honda oil only because it takes less than a quart and the interval is once per year. I haven’t noticed any clunky shifts or extra engine noise with the Rotella. The T4 Dino and T6 Synth all show JASO MA on the label, but for some reason the T5 semi-synth does not.
 
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