• Welcome to the Two Wheeled Texans community! Feel free to hang out and lurk as long as you like. However, we would like to encourage you to register so that you can join the community and use the numerous features on the site. After registering, don't forget to post up an introduction!

San Juan Passes 2023

Joined
Feb 10, 2022
Messages
695
Reaction score
1,265
Location
Lake Travis
Originally scheduled for late June but constantly pushed out to accomodate the heavy winter snow in the high coutry, the trip to San Juans was finally in progress. I got my bike and gear loaded in the truck and headed northwest.

Oddly, the weather was cooler and the countryside greener around Sweetwater than further south. Post, Texas, usually the hottest place along the route was only registering 91 degrees. It sure was a nice change from the constant 105+ further south.This route is a well worn path. The only part I do not really care much for is the 100+ mile stretch between Sweetwater and Lubbock. In recent years, the wind turbines have provided something to look at other than mequite trees and oil derricks. Still, this area is to be gotten through as fast as possible.

Before too long, I cross into New Mexico, the land of unreasonably low speed limits. Slowing down from 75mph to 65mph is a drag. Once on the west side of Clovis and out beyond the Air Force Base, the land opens up into what I call "Billy the Kid" country. Rolling country, rock formations and hardly a tree to be seen.

About an hour later and down a very bumpy road, I arrive at my overnight destination - the Econo-Lodge in Santa Rosa, New Mexico. They have comfy beds, you can back your vehicle to the door and the price is right.

IMG_1807.jpg


I arrived during a thunderstorm and was presented with a beautiful rainbow it seemed was within easy reach. It was such a nice change of pace.

I was up and out early the next morning. I had been thinking of heading north through Santa Fe but opted for the more direct route through Albuqueque to Durango. It is not the most scenic route, but it gets the job done relatively quick. I have passed by the entrance to Chaco Canyon many times always saying next time. Oh well, next time...I feel like traveling down 20 miles of washboard road.

After a couple of hours, I crossed into Colorado which is always a nice experience. A road side sign is not needed to know you just entered the state. Things just suddenly turn green and mountainous.

Fortunately, the trip to the western slope is only 1.5 days for me. Today, I will be meeting up with my friend Patrick and his wife. They have a 45 foot toy hauler that is parked on a stream at 10,250 feet a few miles north of Silverton. Black Bear Pass road is three miles to the north and Ophir Pass road is two miles to the south.

After a short trip up the million dollar highway, I turned down a non-descript road that led to our home base for the next week.

IMG_1908.jpg

The weather at this location was wonderful. High 70s during the day and low 40s during the night made for a great experience.

IMG_1887.jpg

The stream was very nice and provided a very nice sound to sleep to at night. The water was expectantly cold but not bad enough to keep me from washing off the dirt every day.
Shortly after arriving, Patrick and I were gearing up for a ride. We decided that Black Bear Pass would be the first obstacle to conquer and headed up the mountain to the start of the road.

Black Bear Pass

Black Bear Pass road was just a few miles north of out camp site. We rode it quite a few times. Despite the trail still being blocked, one of us made it all the way to Telluride.
A 4K video of the climb up the east side from my perspective...


Patrick's 4K video which follows me up the east side of the pass...


Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_00_14_15.Still002.jpg

The numerous waterfalls along the way make Black Bear one of the most picturesque passes in the area.

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_02_18_19.Still009.jpg

The pass does not give you much time to admire the beauty. It is one of the steeper and rougher passes to climb.

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_02_27_22.Still010.jpg

The camera tends to smooth things out some. All of these roads are well beyond rough.

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_02_34_06.Still011.jpg

Oddly, I do not really notice the no go zone on the immediate right. The heights do not bother me. Perhaps they should?

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_03_11_49.Still013.jpg

There were numerous groups of riders evenly split between dirt and ADV bikes.

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_03_15_39.Still014.jpg

These riders were definitely not amateur and made riding their heavy bikes look easy.

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_03_24_11.Still015.jpg

Unlike these guys, there were several groups of ADV riders that seemed to be outside their comfort zone trying to keep their heavy bikes from tipping over. One should be somewhere beyond an amateur ADV rider before attempting to ride these steep rocky passes.

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_04_26_12.Still018.jpg

It is one thing to look at the routes on a map and a whole other to actually ride them. The thin air and constant steep climbing take some getting used to.

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_04_48_56.Still020.jpg

It is at this point I realize I am climbing up 13,000 foot mountains. Even on these rough double track roads, it is quite the challenge and very rewarding once up on top.

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_06_57_21.Still024.jpg

One of my favorite spots to ride a wheelie. In the video, you can hear me yell "wheeee"!

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_07_57_39.Still028.jpg

I really enjoy rock climbing and there were many opportunities to do so. Too bad the camera flattened out this photo. It was much steeper than it looked.

Black Bear Day 2 Part II.00_08_38_38.Still030.jpg

The snow bank above is the first road block we encountered and got stuck in on day one. Here on day two, jeeps are getting around it to the right.

Black_Bear_Pass_03.00_01_48_30.Still004.jpg

I am about to do the same, just picking my line up that very loose hill.

Black_Bear_Pass_03.00_03_52_13.Still009.jpg

Finally at the summit - taking a look around.

Black_Bear_Pass_03.00_05_12_38.Still012.jpg

Riding down the west side of the pass.

Black_Bear_Pass_03.00_06_39_45.Still014.jpg

Unexpectedly, finding a second snow blocked portion of the road..

IMG_1899.jpg

Patrick's KTM 500 EXC-F, John's 350 EXC-F and my 350-EXC-F at Black Bear Pass - 2023.

IMG_1901.jpg

Patrick checking out the last blocked snow blocked section of the road. He eventually pushed his bike over the snow and rode the remainder of the pass into Telluride. John and I gave it some real consideration but turned around instead.

No guts no glory I guess. Here is Patrick's video of his ride down Black Bear Pass. Perhaps, the first dirt bike this year?


Anyway, we decided to ride Imogene Pass next and captured these images from the Telluride side later in the day...

IMG_1833.jpg

Bridal Falls.
IMG_1839.jpg


IMG_1837.jpg

Brad and Patrick taking in the view above Telluride.
 
Last edited:
Wow!!! I watched your buddy Patrick's video of coming down the other side of Black Bear. Lord have mercy!!! That dude is fearless like a TRex!!! I thought I was going to have coronary arrest just watching along for the ride!!!
 
Wow!!! I watched your buddy Patrick's video of coming down the other side of Black Bear. Lord have mercy!!! That dude is fearless like a TRex!!! I thought I was going to have coronary arrest just watching along for the ride!!!
Yeah, he has always been like that. He is not a conservative rider. :lol2:

Very nice! Thanks for sharing. Amazing bit of snow for this late in the season. Can't beat the great san Juans.
You bet. I hope you are getting some high altitude riding in as well. :chug:
 
Imogene Pass

Despite only riding it once, my favorite pass was Imogene. I only got to ride it once before it was closed for bridge maintenance. Thinking I could get video later, I did not take the gopro along so kind of missed out on the footage. Fortunately, I did break out my phone and take some shots along the way.

IMG_1812.jpg

Imogene is one of the more challenging passes. Going up is steep, long and chock full of loose rocks. Going down is the same but the pucker factor increases as both front and rear wheels slide. Here we are on day two trying to get used to the thin air.

IMG_1810.jpg

This is the same spot but looking towards Ouray. The weather was fantastic and the scenery gorgeous. However, the climb up to the top took a bit of energy to complete.

IMG_1813.jpg

At the summit and on top of the world.
IMG_1815.jpg



Ophir Pass

Because Imogene pass was closed and Black Bear was one way above Telluride, Ophir Pass became the easiest path to the west. It is a cool little pass that does not take long to cross with a higher average pace. There are only a few areas near the top where one should pay special attention. Other than that, the views are great unless heights are a problem.

4K video of me chasing JR up the western side of the pass...


Ophir Pass Part I.00_00_31_59.Still002.jpg

The climb starts out relatively easy through dense forests.

Ophir Pass Part I.00_01_53_46.Still003.jpg

High iron content soil sticks to everything metal on your bike. The colors play with the eyes...

Ophir Pass Part I.00_04_55_33.Still005.jpg

The scenery eventually opens up as you near the pass.

Ophir Pass Part I.00_06_41_22.Still008.jpg

Ophir pass and the part some start getting a little nervous about. Notice the rocks getting larger.

Ophir Pass Part I.00_07_55_07.Still011.jpg

It does not bother me a bit as I stop here to let JR get further in front of me.

Ophir Pass Part I.00_08_02_23.Still012.jpg

Looking to my right...

Ophir Pass Part I.00_08_43_11.Still013.jpg

After giving JR a heads start, I start moving again and enjoying the view...

Ophir Pass Part I.00_09_01_22.Still014.jpg

The rocks here are less than a stable platform. Even so, the KTM makes easy work it.

Ophir Pass Part I.00_10_23_51.Still016.jpg

Looking down at where we just came from.

Ophir Pass Part I.00_12_10_48.Still017.jpg

The only semi challenging section on the pass. contains large rocks and holes. The best thing to do here is pick a line and stick to it.

Ophir Pass Part I.00_13_05_02.Still018.jpg

The summit with some nice lighting effects on the peak in front.
 
California to Hurricane Pass

There are few level places out here. Sometimes it is easier to just stay on the bike.

A 4k video of the short ride from California to Hurricane Pass


California-Hurricane Pass Part I.00_00_10_53.Still002.jpg

California Pass

California-Hurricane Pass Part I.00_00_36_36.Still003.jpg

Even on the more worn passes, there are some pretty steep descents into almost 180 degree switchbacks like this one.

California-Hurricane Pass Part I.00_00_58_39.Still004.jpg

One thing about this area are the views. One is constantly rewarded with some of the most picturesque scenery in the country.

California-Hurricane Pass Part I.00_01_24_32.Still005.jpg

Lake Como

California-Hurricane Pass Part I.00_03_00_11.Still006.jpg
Climbing up Hurricane pass the shale rocks get somewhat larger. It is still pretty easy going though...

California-Hurricane Pass Part I.00_03_15_27.Still007.jpg

With Lake Como in the background, I am about to make my move around the jeeps.

California-Hurricane Pass Part I.00_03_40_28.Still008.jpg

Now out in front and able to pick up the pace. This is a bumpy road with a steep climb to the top. It is not much of a problem though. A heavier bike could easily make this one.

California-Hurricane Pass Part I.00_04_14_18.Still009.jpg

After a couple of months of 100+ degree days, even this dirty snow was heavenly. It was nice to not break a sweat.

California-Hurricane Pass Part I.00_04_20_59.Still010.jpg

It only takes about 5 minutes from pass to pass. The views are amazing though.
 
You're bud's ride down Black Bear was nail-biting. The trail was in such bad shape with large loose rocks and such a narrow line in places. I felt for him every time he came to a switch back and parked it for a moment to get gathered. Smart. You' would have definitely had to edit in some bleeps if that was my video.
 
The Black Bear video was giving me flash backs, except it was really crowded the last time we rode it in 2018. That video did a really good job of conveying just how steep it is in those upper switchbacks!

Ophir looked way cleaner and smoother than I remember. That long rock slide section was super rough when I came across it, 2010 I think? At the time, it was basically just a flattish surface composed of mostly the big chunky rocks on each side of the road. It had not been ground down into the smaller rocks. It was pretty hair raising because I was bouncing all over the place and just trying like crazy to stay away from the edge.
 
Great pictures, videos queued up to watch on the living room TV after work.

Any thoughts on the tree fiddy vs the big 5 hundy in this kind of riding?
 
Great pictures, videos queued up to watch on the living room TV after work.

Any thoughts on the tree fiddy vs the big 5 hundy in this kind of riding?
Thanks, there are more on the channel! The 500 seems to charge up hills. The 350 seems to carve its way up. But, in this mostly open double track, both bikes did extremely well.
 
I rode all that on my KLR 650 and then later on my KTM 530 EXC and RSquared's 690 Enduro. In the really gnarly stuff, my 530 was the best of those, but the 690 handles rough stuff amazingly well and is far more comfy than my 530, especially when you get back to the pavement. If you plan to hit the harder passes, I think the biggest thing that makes a difference is your gearing. Running a smaller front and/or larger rear to give you more of the low end grunt and higher revs really helps a lot.

Here is RSquared heading up Bolam pass at Warp 7 on my 530 :rider:
_T510380.JPG
 
Engineer Pass

It takes a little more effort to get over Engineer Pass. Right from the get go, the switchbacks will put you to the test. However, none of it is overly tough, just drawn out and very rough at times.

Here is a 4k video Patrick created on the way up....


and another he created on the way down...


The way up...

GX010063.00_00_29_25.Still001.jpg


Getting over the shelf on the side of a mountain - after being stopped by kids in the way.

GX010063.00_02_17_00.Still003.jpg

Taking a break up high...

GX010063.00_02_35_23.Still006.jpg

The views from Engineer pass are very nice indeed.

GX010063.00_03_52_21.Still009.jpg

The hooligans who made it difficult for us on the way up.

GX010063.00_04_13_17.Still011.jpg

Engineer pass summit at top left above the switchbacks.

GX010063.00_04_34_21.Still012.jpg

Me up in front traversing some of the more annoying rocks on the trail.

GX010063.00_04_52_18.Still013.jpg

Still, the views are amazing on this side of the pass.

GX010063.00_05_46_05.Still015.jpg

At the summit.

The way down...

Engineer Pass Down.00_00_08_12.Still001.jpg

The view down towards Lake City is really cool.
Engineer Pass Down.00_00_32_00.Still002.jpg


Engineer Pass Down.00_01_01_14.Still003.jpg

They did not seem to be happy waiting on us to pass.

Engineer Pass Down.00_01_03_28.Still004.jpg

Even the little girl is irritated with us.

Engineer Pass Down.00_01_07_29.Still005.jpg

Finally, starting to see light at the end of the tunnel.

Engineer Pass Down.00_01_43_18.Still007.jpg

and I am off...

Engineer Pass Down.00_02_05_02.Still008.jpg

Down the mountain and into the valley all the way to Lake City.
 
I have always preferred running Engineer from East to West and then returning via Cinnamon to Lake City. I can fall down steps much better than I can ride up them :-P

Did you guys happen to ride the lower portion of Engineer that drops out on US 550 just South of Ouray?
 
Oddly, the first photo shows the only real step I remember on the entire trip. I did not ride the lower portion of the pass but JR and Patrick might have after I left. I know they rode Poughkeepsie Gulch and did not care much for it.

@Grommet
@jredford
 
Cinnamon Pass

After a big lunch in Lake City, we headed back west along Cinnamon Pass road. It is pretty wide open and fast compared to the other trails in the area. I was kind of in a food coma but the two chaps in front of me were not. They gave me a good dusting...

A 4k video of me riding along Cinnamon Pass Road. Jredford is directly in front of me, Patrick is leading...


A 4k video of me riding up Cinnamon Pass.


Cinnamon Pass

Cinnamon Pass Up Part I.00_03_51_38.Still002.jpg

This part of Cinnamon Pass road is the smoothest in the area. We were able to carry a little more speed along this stretch.

Cinnamon Pass Up Part I.00_00_56_50.Still004.jpg

Starting the climb up Cinnamon Pass

Cinnamon Pass Up Part I.00_01_52_34.Still006.jpg

JR making easy work out of the switchback...

Cinnamon Pass Up Part I.00_03_02_26.Still011.jpg

Cinnamon pass was surpsingly a little rougher in places than we expected. The uphill climb took more energy than we thought it would.
Cinnamon Pass Up Part I.00_03_40_29.Still014.jpg


Cinnamon Pass Up Part I.00_06_07_38.Still018.jpg


Cinnamon Pass Up Part I.00_06_22_48.Still019.jpg


Cinnamon Pass Up Part I.00_06_45_33.Still020.jpg


Cinnamon Pass Up Part I.00_06_51_42.Still021.jpg

The rough terrain made the climb interesting in some places.

Cinnamon Pass Up Part I.00_07_55_51.Still023.jpg

JR across the finish line.

IMG_1864.jpg


IMG_1868.jpg

Patrick and myself at the summit.

IMG_1866.jpg

Patrick and JR at the summit.

IMG_1873.jpg

The bikes that got us there.
 
Last edited:
I went over Cinnamon a few years ago loaded on the Tenere and from your video it looks a lot rougher now. I know it changes yr to yr but it looks A LOT rougher then it was back then.

I gotta get me a lighter dual sport for Colorado that I can toss in the back of the truck.
 
I was thinking the same thing. I don't remember Cinnamon being all that rough or difficult, especially compared to the West side of Engineer. I guess all the snow melt and traffic has really changed it.
 
When I was going up there was this little SUV or car coming down that pulled over to let me by. I stopped and ask them if they came over the top and they told me they just drove up to the top and turned around and came back down. They were younger couple that looked like they may have rented the vehicle out of Durango. I don't remember what it was but I remember thinking well if they can make it in that I shouldn't have any problems because it was pretty much bone stock and definitely didn't have any lift to it.

Looking at licketysplits videos It looks like there's no way you can make it up that thing now unless you have at least a little bit of lift in your vehicle.

Great pics and videos. I was hoping to be able to get back up there again before the season ends and after watching your videos and looking at the pics I really want to now especially after coming in from the 108 that it is outside right now.
 
Wow!!! I watched your buddy Patrick's video of coming down the other side of Black Bear. Lord have mercy!!! That dude is fearless like a TRex!!! I thought I was going to have coronary arrest just watching along for the ride!!!

I'm Patrick.

It's not fearless. I'm afraid a lot. But something happens in my brain when I'm riding the shelf roads; the drop-off just gets blocked out. I was trying to explain this to Lickety and JRed. I'm not really sure how it works. I focus on where I want to go and that's where I go.

Even though I shot the video, when I watch it, it gives me some serious anxiety. Watching the video is much more difficult than actually doing it.
 
Back
Top