Texas to Montana Ride!

[TinStar]

Another awesome day

I arrived in Yellowstone pretty exhausted for some reason and decided to try and stay there for the night. It was fun seeing the entrance, as all my life I'd read of the place but wondered if I'd ever get there.

I stopped in at the Old Faithful Lodge amid throngs of foreign tourists and amazingly managed to "get the last room anywhere in the park."
Awesome.

Wandered over to watch the eruption and then headed back to Grant Village for the room.

I saw only one buffalo on the ride into the park, and the traffic wasn't too bad. Entering from the south, there isn't much to see from the road since there are so many trees.

I decided to wander out in the dark and get some fresh air after checking into the room. A brown shorts moment occurred in a pitch black area of the path I was on, when apparently I walked up on an elk, who breathed heavily in the darkness a few feet before I would have walked into him.

Took a good shower and hit the sack.


Monday 7.2.07 - Grant Village Yellowstone thru Beartooth Pass to Cody

I woke up this morning feeling great and ready to ride. The weather was perfect and the air was crisp, filled with the scent of conifers, fresh air and freshly roasting bugs on the oilhead's cylinders... mmmm.

Only the best for man and machine

The ride past West Thumb lake was crisp and uneventful, other than spotting the Loch Ness Monster. Either that or it was an overturned canoe with someone desperately waving a paddle. I waved back and continued on.

Didn't see much but the rear end of buses and motor homes as I went north towards the east gate. Rant on: WHY in the heck do people try to bring everything they own with them? I saw so many huge trailers and motorhomes towing other trailers behind them. Man, just buy a house! Rant off:

This dude jumped up on the walkway! I bolted...

Reaching the Canyon intersection, a lot of the traffic disappeared and the scenery got much more interesting as I headed north.
I stopped here and there, always aware that the bozo I'd just spent 20 minutes trying to pass would get ahead of me again. Aaaaargh.

There were several herds of buffalo across the road and I more than patiently waited for them to cross

What I noticed is they pay no attention to cars, but DEFINITELY watched me, turning their head slowly to track me. Maybe the bike looks like some weird creature... hmmmmm


Heading through the Towers area was beautiful and only got better. The Northeast road towards Montana was breathtaking and that is definitely the way I'll enter the park next time. Very few cars and people and the roads are smaller and less maintained - it felt like I was back in the 60's era of the park. Here and there were clusters of cars and people with spotting scopes but I could never see what they were looking at. Wolves I heard later.

Just before exiting the park, I saw a black bear not too far off the road and watched him eat his way towards me. Suddenly I felt the need to move on.

From the park exit to Cooke City was an incredible ride and again the scenery is astounding. Outside Cooke City I saw the dirt road leading to Daisy Pass and decided I needed some dirt adventure. The first section of switchbacks had me reconsidering my decision - they were rutted with lots of large loose rock and sand. The bike is so loaded with gear I had my hands full getting up it. It was just pick a line, gas it and pray. No big deal for a dual sport but the loaded pig was a handful. I must say the new Ohlins probably made the difference between me busting it and not. The handling was much improved.

Further up the pass they had worked on the roads and they were good. Reaching the top, I was disappointed to find the road blocked with a few feet of snow. Still I was at the top and it was beautiful. Heading down I shut off the ABS and sweated out the last mile of rock strewn road.

Feeling my oats from the offroad excursion I blew on to Beartooth Pass. The ride over the pass can be described in one sentence...

Un bee leave a bull.

The ride from the park over to Red Lodge is just astonishing. Next time I'll just bypass RMNP and come straight here! my life is now complete - I got to ride it with no one in front of me and blue skies - yowza!

Finally made it to Montana at the top of the pass. Just across the line there were 75 mph speed signs still on top of the pass... I like Montana already
High winds at the top of the pass made the ride even more breathtaking.

Red Lodge Montana is a cool town. Despite being touristy it still has character and some rough edges left.

Arrived in Cody late to found there is a huge Pro Rodeo going so the town is packed. I finally found a room to stay the night in - wasn't cheap and sure is low end but at least the manager put me in a room next to the office so I could get wifi

On the way to Belfry then Cody:

The Cody Hilton

The Route:

More later...

 

[GSer]

Re: Another awesome day

Fantastic! Reading your ongoing report is helping me make it through these last few days here in Houston before I head off to Colorado. Now I am going to have to ride the road from Yellowstone to Red Lodge. Thanks!

Robert

 

[Quick-Silver]

TinStar, how are you connecting to the Internet on this ride? What camera are you using?
Thanks

 

[TinStar]

Hey Robertoman! My head is swimming from all the sights and experiences. I've never been to this area before so I've got that to factor in as well as the motorcycling experience.

I figgered you were gettin antsy The ride over the pass is worth 2000 miles... I hope our schedules collide and I get to see you guys in Ouray!

Hi Jerry! Connecting has been so-so... the last few days I've had to find a place at lunch - I wander into stores and ask the locals where wifi is available and they have been good at pointing me to them.

The motel in Amarillo had it as well as the TXDOT info center there.

In Denver I got a very weak signal from a neighbor's house

The Riviera hotel in Saratoga had it but I couldn't connect until the morning I had to leave.

Pearl Street Bagels on Pearl St in downtown Jackson had wifi and I posted from there.

Yellowstone had none, but I asked the waitress at the lodge if she knew of any... she said if I went to the employee's cabin area I could get it by sitting in the parking lot. I tried to find it last night wandering around in the dark and stumbled onto an elk - it was dark and he was big and the road past him went into the woods so I chickened out and went back to my room.

In Red Lodge there is a Coffee Roasting Co. coffee shop downtown and I posted from there earlier today. I initially went into a Chinese restaurant and asked the Chinese lady if they had "wifi" - it finally got hysterical since she thought I wanted some kind of "fied foo?"

Tonight I'm posting from a sleazebag motel in Cody - the manager gave me a room near the office that picks up a signal intermittently.

The camera I'm using is a Panasonic LX1 that shoots in 16:9 format and has a 24-105 equivalent zoom so the wide shots are good. I've about decided the best camera for this is one that has a built-in lens cap and turns on when it opens. This camera has an old fashioned lens cap and I'm having to fumble to get it off before I can turn the camera on. As well, the cap flops around, etc.

Joseph

 

[TinStar]

Bug Fiesta Siesta

July 3, 2007

Last night at the Grizzly Bear Lodge proved to be interesting.

I was crashing comfortably on the bed in the little dump motel when I saw a large spider run across the floor at high speed and go under the bed. This guy was big and fast.

Hmmm... I got up and flipped the sheets back and there sat another large spider right under the pillow, which then bolted down the headboard. I didn't ride 2000 miles to get bitten by a spider. A wolf maybe but not a spider.

Solution:

I carry a tent for emergencies - just didn't expect to have to use it in the middle of a motel. Oh well, the bed made a good sleeping pad.


When I went to brush my teeth, this guy let me know who was boss. I tried to wash him down the drain with hot water but he was unfazed and gave me a dirty look

I washed him down the drain several times with hot water but he'd come zooming back out. I figgered this was the nicest place he'd ever lived so I left the sink to him.
Fully expecting baby snakes to come squirting out of the shower head, I was pleasantly surprised when I had a full shower unmolested by critters.

Had breakfast at Granny's in Cody and folks were lining the streets early to see the Stampede Days Parade. After breakfast I hit the Cody Museum - absolutely great! The gun collection is great as are the other areas. When I came out the parade was still going on and staging from the museum parking lots. A senator from Wyoming was there (last name starts with a K) and he and his assistant ended up standing next to me. As the parade wound down I jumped on the bike and pulled out behind the two cop cars at the tail of the parade and slowly followed them down the route - so I can now say I was "almost" in the Stampede Days parade.

I was pleasantly surprised to see cheering crowds waiting for my arrival

This dude's tall enough to ride a KTM 950

Cody PD

The senator is in the blue shirt - he was too squeaky clean

Following the cops and pooper scoopers on the route

Delayed by a bunch of clowns in Cody, I headed up Chief Joseph highway at a good clip. It was really beautiful - less dramatic than Beartooth but a great road.

Rollin rollin rollin, keep them dogies rollin, rawhiiiiiiiiiide!!!!!!

I stopped in Cooke City and grabbed a coffee and snapped a couple pics.

Cooke City

Continuing on back into Yellowstone I looped around the top of the park and out through the west entrance. The traffic was heavy today and made the ride long and slow. By the time I got out of the park I was ready... Luckily I saw another black bear, lots o' buffalo, elk and a bald eagle on the ride.

West Yellowstone was another Touristastan but I got a sandwich there and headed on for Dillon, MT. FYI there is a "Pizza and Internet Cafe" right as you come into the town. Skip it and go on. They charge 20 cents a minute for internet access...

The scenery changed as I went west on 287 past Hebgen Lake towards Ennis. The mountains looked different than in Yellowstone
and eventually fell away to rolling hills and wide open valleys between the ranges. Still a beautiful ride. Somewhere on 287 I passed a KLR 650 and a blue and white 1150GS heading towards Yellowstone. They were loaded with gear and we waved. It was good to see some other ADV bikes finally. I have seen very few - about 4 1200GS's in Colorado. 2 pairs in Yellowstone, the above mentioned and 2 1200's in Virginia City.

287

Earthquake Lake

On the way to Ennis

I wish I had a dollar for every Goldwing with a trailer I've seen - I could've paid for the Ohlins shocks easily. Of the seemingly thousands I'd guess that almost half were trikes. I didn't realize the popularity of them. Harleys were the second largest group. The rest were a smattering of BMW's and only a handful of sportbikes.

Speaking of Virginia City, that is a really cool town! It appears to be an old mining town that has remained unchanged - the buildings are old aged black wood like you see in ghost towns but apparently have going concerns within them. The little town was hopping and I went through without stopping or taking a pic - wish I had but was brain-dead at that point and forgot to. A couple of miles down the road is Nevada City - smaller but with old buildings and several abandoned rail cars that speak of the wealth that was there.

Nevada City

Psychoville Manor

I will make it a point to come back to those towns next time I come through.

The day was fading fast and I raced on to Sheridan, then Twin Bridges and south to Dillon.

The Route:

Tomorrow my destination - across Chief Joseph Pass and up the Bitterroot Valley!

 

[TinStar]

July 4, 2007

I slept good and spider free at the Super 8 Motel in Dillon. The night before I'd spent a while talking to the girl behind the counter and her husband, an ex Army Ranger before heading out to get a good steak.


That's what you call "tacos to go"

Morning coffee

The morning air was brisk and there wasn't a cloud in the sky when I headed south on the interstate to catch 287 west towards Bannack and Wisdom.

The cloudless sky allowed me to really appreciate the "Big Sky" of Montana. It's been interesting to sense the differing feelings of different states. They do have a "feel" that is their own.

287 towards Bannack was rolling hills and sweeping vistas and long long stretches seeing no one. It's amazing to be able to ride long spells and see no sign of humanity. It's refreshing and also triggers those little fears of breaking down in the midst of nowhere.

Don't miss Bannack if you're near. It was the frontier capitol of Montana and is a ghost town not to be missed. The state maintains it as a park - looks like a great place to camp also - and you can walk through the buildings and read the stories of gunfights and wild west adventures. I will come back to really search the town.

Montana has a sense of history and stepping back in time like I've seen nowhere else. People drive old cars, and there are many old buildings strewn here and there. Not only that, the people are friendly and filled with what seems to be lacking in America nowadays. I feel tinges of the feelings I had as a child in the 60's - remnants of America that I miss.

While in Bannack I met 2 riders from Canada who had stayed at the Super 8 - I'd seen their bikes there the night before.

I continued on to Wisdom, taking a tushie timeout, tossing on a jacket liner in the nippy air and gulped a bag of M&M's for the road. There is a great trading post there. The usual Harleys were parked in rows with the watchful eye of the sheriff waiting for a speeder to come through.

From Wisdom I headed on 43 west and swung into the Big Hole Battlefield. This was where Chief Joseph and the Nez Perce had fought a battle with the US Cavalry as he had moved east towards Yellowstone and Cody. God, did I want to stay and walk the paths through that valley! There is nothing like ancient battlefields for sensing the power of history. Once again, a place I'd love to return to with more time.

Getting back on 43, I headed on up Chief Joseph Pass, a beautiful road with nice sweepers and of course beautiful mountain views.

I've really enjoyed riding in Montana because there are few people and the roads are mostly left to yourself. Finally reached the junction of 93 that heads up into the Bitterroot Valley towards Missoula. Coming down the pass the winds kept the switchbacks "interesting" and I almost overshot a couple of corners. I still forget the extra weight on the bike sometimes.

The Bitterroot is a beautiful valley between ranges that has the feel of a place in the infancy of becoming another Jackson, Wyoming. The population is growing and it's easy to see why folks are moving there. Actually it's sad to me and I feel for the locals who will slowly be pushed out by the wealth of outsiders. Nonetheless it is a beautiful valley.

I continued on to Stevensville where I will be staying for a few days and exploring the area. There were lots of folks on the river for the 4th, and my friend and I went to visit relatives for a barbecue bash and fireworks frenzy.

Several folks had gathered on the back deck of the house and I plopped down next to a couple from California. In the chitchat it came out that I had ridden from Texas to Montana, having just ridden in today. The couple, Kelly and Kay asked what kind of motorcycle I rode and I said "Well, have you ever heard of a BMW GS?" Big smiles erupted and they burst into laughter. Kelly informed me that they had just ridden in from Cali on GS's - him on a 1200 GSA and Kay on a F650GS. What a hoot! Here in the middle of Montana at a family BBQ I bump into a couple of GS'ers.

We ate fantastic bbq ribs, had some good wine and played Red Neck Horseshoes with washers until the darkness came.

This is when the party began... I have never seen such a stockpile of fireworks in my life. These guys were serious.

The neighborhood consisted of 10 acre plots of fields in the valley with fireworks erupting all over the valley. Our hosts had prepared for the event with large launch tables, buckets of water about the place and a field of tall grass prepped with mown firebreaks and prepositioned water hoses.

The kids were launching rockets to the cheers of the household, and sure enough the field got a hot rocket. Fire blazed up and we raced around throwing buckets of water to no avail. The "fire marshall" finally got a hose to it and doused the blaze. Neighbors across the way cheered loudly and we did a victory dance.

Needless to say this pattern continued until late. We'd start a fire and the the neighbors would start a fire. Each was successfully doused but it was always a rush. Luckily my hosts were fireworks pros

We finally won the contest, starting 5 field fires to the neighbor's paltry 2.

I have vivid memories of this 4th of July... the cool evening, silhouettes of the mountains with shimmering stars in a clear sky and the valley filled with thousands of fireworks from homes all through the valley.

What a way to end my 2,761 mile ride.

America the beautiful lives on in hidden places...

 

[Duke]

WOW.... Great report thus far. Waiting for the next installment. Ride Safe and keep taking those most excellent photos.

 

[Quick-Silver]

Joseph, there is a national Goldwing rally going on in Billings. It started yesterday and goes thru Sat.

Looks like you are having a great time. Wish I was there.

 

[TinStar]

Thanks Duke!

Quiksilver, that explains all the wings i saw in the area then. I was really surprised at at how many trikes there were.

I'm hanging out in Missoula and the valley for a few days before heading back. Tomorrow I'm gonna try to connect with Earthpilot in Missoula and maybe ride some...

 

[Quick-Silver]

Thanks Duke!

Quiksilver, that explains all the wings i saw in the area then. I was really surprised at at how many trikes there were.

I'm hanging out in Missoula and the valley for a few days before heading back. Tomorrow I'm gonna try to connect with Earthpilot in Missoula and maybe ride some...

We'll be leaving Texas soon headed for Glacier Nat Pk and the west coast of Oregon. Hop to ride some of the same roads you've been telling us about. Your report has been most valuable to us. Thanks

 

[TinStar]

Hey Jerry! Were you able to rig up some spare fuel cans?

I hope you guys have a wonderful trip It will be hard not to but stay safe and God Bless!

 

[Quick-Silver]

Hey Jerry! Were you able to rig up some spare fuel cans?

I hope you guys have a wonderful trip It will be hard not to but stay safe and God Bless!

Joseph, 4 of these for extra gas will just have to do. They are 24 oz'ers. Pisked these up at Academy.

 

[BexarWolf]

 

[TinStar]

It has been murderously hot here - 107 yesterday... and all I brought from Texas was cool/cold weather clothes. Sheesh!

I spent some time in Stevensville and have been learning some of the history of the region. Lewis and Clark came through of course but I didn't realize there were missions and forts in the area. The folks here are friendly and I'm really enjoying the time.

Leo - a real Montana character - adventurer/philosopher/gardener

Spent a day and night with a great couple, Regis and Marilyn, who live far back in the mountains and are homesteading in a cabin while they build a larger home. They live off the grid and have solar and generator power - felling trees and milling lumber for their house - almost entirely self-sufficient and hard working. Really enjoyed the time with them and their hospitality. Regis and Marilyn, if you're reading this I want you to know how much I enjoyed being with you guys and how much I respect you two! :thumbup

While staying in their guest camper, we had something large and with claws rock the trailer and scrape around the door in the middle of the night. Nothing like standing in your skivvies with a 44 magnum and a flashlight lighting the camper door waiting for a bear to rip through. Needless to say didn't sleep much :o

Missoula Farmer's Market

This guy had rigged a shaft drive off his bicycle to power his table saw

I finally connected with Buddy aka "Earthpilot" from Texas. He had done the run up to Glacier and back to Missoula Saturday. We met at his motel and grabbed some dinner. What a sweet Guzzi!

Buddy and his baby (or one of his babies):

Buddy's mirror message cracked me up

He was heading south towards Texas the next morning so we hooked up early and went south on 93 until Hamilton. From there we headed east over Skalkaho Pass towards Anaconda. The morning was cool - so much so we each had to don our warmer jackets - and headed into the pass.

The narrow road turned out to be a great ride. It was hard packed gravel, twisty and climbed up through tall trees high into the mountains. The actual pass road was about 40 miles and at the midpoint we hit Skalkaho Falls. This is a beautiful waterfall that is right on the road. We hung out there for a few minutes in the cool air - Buddy's temp gauge had shown 51 degrees at one point - then continued on after the obligatory pics.

Buddy at Skalkaho Falls

Eventually we dropped down the pass and back onto blacktop, catching Hwy 1 over to Anaconda. There was good scenery and I enjoyed watching Buddy flick the Gootzi through hairpins and sweepers as I chased him down the road.

Anaconda is a copper mine town with huge slag fields on the east side. That was the point where we found 569 / 274 and headed south. That turned out to be a great little road as well. It was poorly maintained but a really neat ride with few cars and great scenery.

We eventually hit 43 and went east towards I-15. The scenic road was torn up with loose piles of gravel to keep the ride over quite "interesting". Another beautiful area following a large river. We reached the interstate and stopped for a breather. Buddy suited up for the heat and the southern route towards Idaho. As we were about to part ways, Buddy spotted my rear turn signal hanging down by the wires. The sucker had vibrated loose and bounced against the funky low mudguard for a long ways, turning the lens black and wearing a spot on the guard. Grrrrr. Got it put back in place and we took off - Buddy to idaho and me back the route I came through the pass.
Buddy, had a great time and a good ride- look forward to connecting in Texas when I get back - stay safe man!

I reversed back the same route :evil and had a great ride back to Stevensville. Ended up being a 300 mile ride for the day.

The route:

 

[JadeRider]

Wow Vato

You had a Slime Pack, a Treo and a Mac with you. Did you grab into my saddle bag? Interesting to see you covered a good part of the same I covered (at least until you got to Denver )

Great trip dude

 

[TinStar]

Jaderider - Great minds think alike

Hey - when did you make your trip?

 

[JadeRider]

I arrived in Houston Saturday night

 

[BUFF]

What a ride report and such great pictures.

Been over two decades since I've been through the Rockies and I've been wanting to go back. Thanks for letting us live a bit vicariously through you!

 

[TinStar]

Monday I went from Missoula up to St. Ignatius passing the National Bison Range. I didn't get a chance to go through it.

The route from there to Thompson Falls was beautiful following the Clarks Fork river. Excellent area. Got a piece of peanut butter pie and coffee that was to die for at a little cafe in Thompson Falls. The waitress told me they had a lot of grizzlies in the area. From there it was on up to Trout Creek where I spent the night.

Clarks Fork River

The next day I continued up to Ross Creek and "The Cedars". The Cedars is an ancient forest of massive cedar trees that you can walk through. It has an almost magical feel and is a beautiful quiet area with brooks, moss and ferns flowing amongst the trees. Shot a few pics and walked deeper into the woods there... suddenly I got a strong sense of danger. It was palpable. I hesitated, then turned around and walked out. There were a couple of freshly torn up logs and I assume there was a bear nearby. One thing I've learned over the years is to follow your senses in the woods...

This area of Montana has some real characters and character...

I decided I needed a coke and stopped at a local bar/cafe. The front door to the bar was intentionally blocked, so I went to a side screen door and entered into a crowded, dusty, junk-filled storeroom with no sign of life. On one wall there was a glass cooler with canned drinks, which I opened and grabbed a warm coke. Looking to my right I saw a very stern woman glaring at me through a small doorway... "What are you doing?" she said rather bluntly. I stammered a little about needing a coke and stepped through the little doorway, only to find myself standing behind the bar with the two older lady bartenders. Four crusty locals sat across the bar directly in front of me, somewhat shocked at the sudden appearance of a huge man with a ponytail behind the counter. A long silence ensued as they unblinkingly stared, unsure of what to make of me. In the pregnant silence I said "Well, since I'm here, can I get anybody anything?"

"Free beer" was the response.

"OK, free beer for everybody!", I said jokingly, to which the old bartender lady to my left said "You do and I'll kick your ***." Now I'm 6'4 and 250 lbs, and she was about 5'2 and 95 lbs but I have no doubt she could have done it... I sheepishly paid for my Coke and a glass of ice and left.


At least the Montana Department of Transportation is honest...

Humiliated by a little old bartender lady but glad to still have my *ss attached, I continued on up through grizzly country to Kootenai Falls. This is an awesome set of roaring rapids off the main road with a suspension foot bridge over the water. I believe this is where they filmed "The River Wild". The wind and cold spray off the roaring river was refreshing in the heat. You could sit there for hours and just watch the massive power of the river.
What an awesome place.

After staggering around the trails and over the bridge in the sweltering heat, I continued on to Libby and then Kalispell. From Kalispell it was 83 south to Missoula.

Libby still has a working drive-in movie

What a great couple of days in some incredible scenery!

More coming soon...

 

[Quick-Silver]

It just keeps getting better doesn't it?

We will be in Missoula next week. Hope it cool off some.

 

[TinStar]

Another Day in Montana

One of the best things about this ride has been the people I've met on the trip. I hooked up with Shadyrascal aka "Steve" in Florence for a couple of beers while he was getting ready to watch his son play in a baseball game.

I have to admit, he has the most disgustingly beautiful black Mustang Cobra I've seen. Steve, I hate your guts
We talked about bikes and 4 wheelers and he told me about some serious dunes they ride at St. Anthony's on quads. Sounds like incredible fun.

Steve and the black beauty

I dropped the GS at Big Sky BMW to get a new fuel pump installed before heading back to Texas and while there checked out all the GS's in for service or just parked. 1100's, 1150 GSA's, 1150's and 1200's. Tony in sales told me GS's were the main bike of choice around here and it gave me warm nubbins to see so many in one place

After dropping the bike off, we hit Ft. Missoula and timed it such that the Vietnam traveling memorial - the "Wall" had just opened for exhibit at the Fort. I've seen the real one in D.C., and this was a really moving experience to see as well. While resting in the shade from the heat, one of the workers from the came over to chat. His name was John and he was from the Aspen area. John was a Viet Nam vet who had taken a year off to volunteer to travel with the exhibit. He said there are so many requests by cities for the traveling memorial to come through that it's years on the waiting list. They were about to have a ceremony in which the governor of Montana and other dignitaries would be speaking. It was a great experience to see the memorial and talk with John.

From there we headed up to a cabin being built in the mountains to see friends and ended up working on the cabin of course. Installed a little rough cut siding and stained a wall, but mostly enjoyed the incredible views over the Bitterroot valley. From the gorge below I heard lots of gunfire and steel plates being rung by the bullets. After a bit I heard a 4 wheeler fire up and in a few minutes a Can Am 4 wheeler pulled up to the cabin. This was one cool 4 wheeler - a V Twin 800cc that sounded greeeaaat!

We were invited down to visit and after finishing up at the cabin stopped in to check it out. We met Randy the property owner, and got a tour of the place. Randy was a 3 Gun master shooter and firearms instructor and we talked shop for a long time. His buddy Dave was visiting from out of state and they had been sitting on the porch enjoying a few beers and plinking at targets and steel plates. Dave had been a sniper in Viet Nam... let's just say you shouldn't mess with these guys We had a good time visiting and finally had to leave when it got dark.

I have to say I have met the most interesting people in Montana. Folks are friendly and the common thread that seems to run through is the desire for freedom and independence. Common sense and a desire to live a good life left alone. My kind of folks for sure...

 

[TinStar]

Hey Steve! Man that is a serious dune :huh I have the feeling my Pig with a paddle tire would go through the dune rather than over it. Kinda like a Bavarian gopher :lol3

I sure hope we can hook up and ride next time I'm up. Really enjoyed the visit and conversation! By that time Mrs. Shady should have her new 1200 GS :evil

Mine outside Phiilpsburg - aka Granite Ghost Town

Ancient technology

Picked up the Pig this morning in prep for the return trip to Texas. Big Sky BMW put a new fuel pump on the bike and in the process discovered that 2 of the studs that hold the access plate were stripped. Grrrrr. I was out of cell range and they took it upon themselves to try and find a used tank for me as an alternative since they couldn't guarantee the plate would hold a seal. They were able to build up washers enough to catch the last bit of thread on the original tank and get some torque on the nuts. Hopefully it will hold until I get back to Texas and can deal with the tank. They were great guys and I appreciated them spending time trying to find alternative solutions to save me some money. Thanks guys!

 

[TinStar]

Texas to Montana - The Return

The Return...


Day 1: Stevensville, MT to Grangeville, ID

Got a late afternoon start today on the beginning of my return trip to Texas. I left Stevensville with the Bitterroot Valley shrouded in smoke and haze from multiple forest fires. I could barely make out the mountains through the haze as I rode through the heat north on 93 to Lolo Pass / Hwy 12. The area has been in a tremendous heat wave and it feels like Texas - and I thought I'd get to enjoy cool mountain air for a couple of weeks LOL. Oh well...

I had a blast in the area, getting to have a few adventures and a lot of fun in the process. My last day there we headed up into the mountains to pick huckleberries and spent an afternoon scavenging the minimal harvest this year. We were heavily protected since we were competing with bears for the little tangy berries. It was hot and the dust on the fire roads was fine powder several inches deep, coating all of us on the way. We eventually found a few berries (enough to pour over ice cream and ran into the biggest crop dead center in a bear area - lots of torn up stumps and bear droppings on the trail. Kinda got that funny feeling one was near so we headed out and pigged out on ice cream.

Lolo Pass was beautiful as I swept through the turns early on. I'd been warned of the moose in the area and the fact that a rider had been killed just a few days ago trying to avoid one. Each blind corner of the twisty road brought a beautiful view and also a sense of concern, knowing the narrow road could instantly be filled with a deer or moose from the brush at the sides. I entered a blind curve, only to see in the midst of it scraped asphalt and skid marks from both directions, a large stain of oil and two large stains, surrounded by orange spray painted investigation marks outlining the path of the crash. Whatever happened here it only served to remind me of the seriousness of riding - a reality check.

As I rounded another bend, a large helicopter came lifting out of the river with a huge water pouch beneath it, water dripping as it flew away to attack a fire somewhere near, the mist and spray of the water hitting me as it went overhead.

It's not a mistake... it's "art"

The pass is truly a beautiful road, but also one that keeps you on your toes. There are a lot of blind corners and little shoulder so you stay busy and alert. Each corner seemed to be a challenge today, with a huge tandem trailer coming around the curve halfway in my lane - each of us passing only an arms length apart. The road had a fair amount of traffic with winds high and gusty. The loaded bike kept me busy with the log trucks adding waves of turbulence to the windy gusts. In addition road crews had been dumping asphalt on the inside of corners and about every 5th turn I'd suddenly find myself on loose gravel... Huge thunderheads were building and by the time I reached Lowell it had gotten very dark in the middle of the afternoon. I stopped and put on my rain gear, timing it perfectly as the rain hit as soon as I got back on the road.

These guys are not your friends...

It rained steadily all the way to Kooskia where it finally stopped and needed a break. I grabbed a cup of coffee after parking the bike and laying my gear on the seat, only to see a massive downpour hit the street, dumping huge amounts of rain on the bike and my gear. I ran out to try and grab it, finally starting the bike and jumping the curb to get it out of the rain but it was too late. I was so soaked I went back into the restaurant sopping with water and wrung out as much as possible in the bathroom.

Eventually the rain slacked off and I geared up again, heading south on 13 towards Grangeville. The rain returned in sheets and I could tell 13 was a gorgeous ride but in the rain and tension I couldn't see much. A few miles out of Grangeville the rain became sporadic but the fog came rolling in covering the high switchback areas.

I finally hit sunshine to warm my soaked Levi's as I cleared the mountains and approached Grangeville.

I was a little ragged from the rain and the ride and decided to spend the night in Grangeville. Lolo Pass / Hwy 12 is a beautiful road as is 13, and I'd love to ride it again in good weather :thumbup

By the time I got checked in and my gear drying it was about 10 til 9 pm and I went downtown to get a bite to eat. All the restaurants closed at 9 but one let me in right at 9, much to the chagrin of the teenage waitresses who were anxious to go home . Kathy was the manager of her mother's place, Barb's Cafe, and we chatted a long time while they made me a great BLT with fries. She discussed the heat wave and the best route to Boise as well as some other great riding areas around.


The Route:

Tomorrow I'll head south on 55 or 95 and see what happens...

 

[TinStar]

Re: Texas to Montana Ride - The Return

This morning I left Grangeville and headed south on 95 towards Boise. A couple miles out of town I saw a sign for a woolly Mammoth discovery and headed off onto gravel roads in search of the site. I guess the state decided not to put a sign at the site because I never found it and ended up looping back to 95 on a 7 mile detour.

Outside Grangeville it was flat farm country, but it soon began to get interesting and 95 turned out to be a great road. The smoke of many forest fires obscured the stunning views, but it still was a great ride. Highly suggested route!

The smoke from forest fires obscured the majestic views

I raced on south to White Bird and the Indian battlefield. Some fabulous scenery on this ride. I detoured to the battlefield and some side roads.

Part of the battlefield where the Nez Perce kicked butt on the U.S. Cav

White Bird

Stopping for a Coke at the local souvenir shop, I was startled to see the Pig being attacked by a fiberglass grizzly.

As the heated battle between the ferocious grizz and my Bavarian pig raged on, I was blindsided and knocked to the ground by a herd of jackelopes, who held me down while a whistle-pig took the last $5 out of my wallet. Shaken by the incident and fearing a snipe attack, or worse, drop-bears, I took off for more southernly regions and higher heat.

The twisties took me through a few small towns and finally Riggins, where there were a lot of river rafting companies and it looked like a cool place to stay the night. Next time I'll plan to stay there.

Bad to da bone river boat

The rugged landscape in the area is known to contain some "independent" folks, and the signs reminded me...

I think I'll call this highway "Route 666".

I wanted to attend their church service, but since all I could bring on the bike trip was an Uzi and 12" Bowie knife I didn't want to feel underdressed.



More road construction

I finally reached the junction of 55 and 95 at New Meadows and pulled in to top off the tank. To the side I saw an old blue Beemer parked under a tree with the rider sitting at a picnic table. I pulled over and introduced myself. "Rouch" shook hands and we started talking bikes. He lived in the area and was in New meadows checking out an old Harley panhead for a friend. Rouch had recently bought the 1974 R900 with 80K on it and had mainly ridden Harley pan heads previous to the Beemer. He was enjoying the bike and planned to take it on a ride from Idaho through Canada and down to New York City in the late summer. He suggested some rides and also that I continue on 95 instead of 55. A wairess had suggested 55 to Boise but Rouch said it was congested with trucks and construction and 95 would be a great ride. I finally let him get back to his half eaten hamburger and headed south.

Rouch and his 74 R900

95 was pretty and it too had road construction in spots but overall was a great road. Eventually it played out into flat open landscape sweltering in the heat. At the junction of 95 and I-84 in Payette there was a great surplus and military vehicle sales lot and there were military trucks, Humvees, Huey choppers and even Abrams tanks for sale. Man toys for sure.

How in God's name can you dent an Abrams tank like this?

I was at the border of Oregon, so I headed west across the river to Ontario, Oregon just so I could say I'd been to Oregon then looped back over the river on 84 towards Boise. The highway had just recently been coated with tar so it was about 15 miles on slick fresh tar. Nasty.

The ride was flat, hot and boring, with long stretches of 45 mph single lane road while the highway was being redone.

When I FINALLY reached Boise and found Big Twin BMW for a breather and a T-shirt, I spotted two incredibly suspicious and gnarly looking guys hanging around a somewhat dirty 1200GS. My instincts were correct and sure enough they were ADV riders - "BoneBag" and "Nortwoods Tiger" from ADVRider.com. The 1200GS was Bonebag's, and Nortwoods was on a 2000 Tiger. I gotta say Nort is one big dude - 6'9" and riding a Tiger - awesome. I think they were both getting new rear tires put on and were heading for northern California. (Bonebag, if you guys are running from the law let me know and I'll say you were heading east) They'd ridden west on 84 from the direction I was headed and informed me it was flat, hot and boring. As I was leaving, another rider pulled up on a 98 GS and we talked a bit. He suggested I take Hwy 30 to Twin Falls off I-84 for a change of scenery.

Bonebag and Nortwoods

Yours truly courtesy of Bonebag

Bonebag and Nort were right on. "flat, hot and boring"... I motored on as fast as possible in the hot, high and gusty winds for what seemed hours until Bliss where I got onto Hwy 30 - the "Thousand Springs Byway".

It certainly was nicer than the interstate and followed the river through valleys and fossil beds. I had run out of water in the Camelbak earlier and finally got so dehydrated I had to stop. I sucked down a frozen drink and liter of water as it began to get dark, the orange glow of the skies beautiful and acrid from the forest fires.



Age of the dinosaurs

A side road that took me to the river

I finally reached Twin Falls at dusk and found a decent hotel for the night.

Today's Route:

See ya!

 

[Earthpilot]

Joesph, great to see more fantastic pics man!
I know it was tough to leave MT for several GREAT reasons,,,
Glad to see you made it through the McCall area, I liked going through there a few years ago. Stay safe and have a fun ride back down South!